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I would, once it starts to crack, there's no going back. You cant drill a crack stop on that without messing up the crankcase oiling. Eventually the crack will go all the way in and you could lose the plane when the engine goes. Unless you know someone who can TIG weld small parts.
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Let me know if these get into the thread. Good luck.
Sincerely, Richard
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180
Sincerely, Richard
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180
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Thanks
Sincerely, Richard
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180
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[QUOTE=SrTelemaster150;11976370]Around 1988 I bought an Ariens "Jet" front tine tiller W/a tired 3HP Briggs from a close friend for $25
It burned oil so bad it would foul the plug after a few minute run....
I bet a Bowman's ring would have fixed the oil burning for, what, about $12.00?![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
BTW, what do you think of my converting my 120abc to ECDI and running methanol? It has bushed con rod ends so what oil % would I use? Thanks.
Sincerely, Richard
Cub Brotherhood #187; Sig 1/4 (Koverall/dope), H9 100 inch (Gen 1) (Solartex/?), GB Anniv Cub (NIB)
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180
It burned oil so bad it would foul the plug after a few minute run....
I bet a Bowman's ring would have fixed the oil burning for, what, about $12.00?
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
BTW, what do you think of my converting my 120abc to ECDI and running methanol? It has bushed con rod ends so what oil % would I use? Thanks.
Sincerely, Richard
Cub Brotherhood #187; Sig 1/4 (Koverall/dope), H9 100 inch (Gen 1) (Solartex/?), GB Anniv Cub (NIB)
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180
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Gee I turn my back and all these comments turn up. So my piece. Cars, Triumph Spitfire with a 13B engine up front, on removing drive washers, I use the OS purpose made device where it fits, otherwise I take the back plate off (if it is a rebuild) and drive the shaft out through the back. On welding cracks, stop drilling cracks, small drills accurately placed will stop cracks, seen it many times on full size a/c however for cracked crankcases (and other speciality welding) I go to nearest airport and look up the a/c qualified welder, if he can't weld it forget it. But in the case mentioned, if the part is available why bother.
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Richard, I too have read that some early 1.20's were high compression, I use WildCat 10% 2/4 which has 18% full synthetic. The 1.50 pictured above has 11.24 to 1 compression. I don't fly any planes that require that last enth of power so why torture the engine. You'll be amazed at how smoothly the engine does everything when equipped with CDI.
http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...20FA-150S.html
http://sceptreflight.net/Model%20Eng...20FA-150S.html
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Spaceworm.....thanks. From my reading they don't mention a break in prop? I'm wondering what fuel and glow plugs might be good for the 60 twin? I was looking over a Top Flite Elder I had mostly built and set aside. If I modified the cowl area I could expose and use this twin. The plane calls for a 40 so it might be a good match for putting around.
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Spaceworm.....thanks. From my reading they don't mention a break in prop? I'm wondering what fuel and glow plugs might be good for the 60 twin? I was looking over a Top Flite Elder I had mostly built and set aside. If I modified the cowl area I could expose and use this twin. The plane calls for a 40 so it might be a good match for putting around.
Sincerely, Richard
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BTW, what do you think of my converting my 120abc to ECDI and running methanol? It has bushed con rod ends so what oil % would I use? Thanks.
Sincerely, Richard
Cub Brotherhood #187; Sig 1/4 (Koverall/dope), H9 100 inch (Gen 1) (Solartex/?), GB Anniv Cub (NIB)
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180
I am supposed to be getting 9 gallons of pure methanol in the spring. I am going to mix 10% Klotz Technoplate W/O nitro to do comparisons.
If a gas engine can run @ 5% lube why can't a methanol engine do the same when there is a 40% increase in fuel mix volume?
I believe the high lube % of glow fuel is to protect against the unstable ignition timing & detonation associated W/GI. Unilke GI, A/F ratio & atmospheric conditions will not affect ignition timing W/CDI.
Although I haven't done extensive testing, I did run my HC FA-180 CDI on O'Donnell Speed Blend 30% nitro fuel W/8% lube W/O obvious ill affects.
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[QUOTE=SrTelemaster150;11977010]I am supposed to be getting 9 gallons of pure methanol in the spring. I am going to mix 10% Klotz Technoplate W/O nitro to do comparisons....
/QUOTE]
I am looking for methanol here in CT, paid $5.00 per gallon in my jug at a speed shop in VA several years ago.
I am looking forward to your tests.
Sincerely, Richard
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180
/QUOTE]
I am looking for methanol here in CT, paid $5.00 per gallon in my jug at a speed shop in VA several years ago.
I am looking forward to your tests.
Sincerely, Richard
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180
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I believe the high lube % of glow fuel is to protect against the unstable ignition timing & detonation associated W/GI. Unilke GI, A/F ratio & atmospheric conditions will not affect ignition timing W/CDI.
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Don't know about Saitos but from the observed first hand experience of others, reduction of oil content below that recommended by the manufacturer generally cause pain in the hip pocket nerve (resulting in the expenditure of hard earned cash). I've seen YS's in particular suffer terminal failure with a 5% reduction in oil content. The leaner you run an engine (getting more performance) the more you need the oil for lubrication and to a degree cooling. The only thing I mess with (seriously) in nitro content and apart from tests to destruction I have never had a catastrophic engine failure of any of my engines.
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I see that Horizon Hobby apparently does not carry all of the currently produced Saito engines, in particular the FA-90TS. I see that Hobby Horse in Madison Wisconsin has them on their website. Saito Seisakusho http://www.saito-mfg.com/english/itemlist1.html seems to show it as a current engine. Can anyone shed any light on this? Has anyone done any business with Hobby Horse? Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction for one.
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Don't know about Saitos but from the observed first hand experience of others, reduction of oil content below that recommended by the manufacturer generally cause pain in the hip pocket nerve (resulting in the expenditure of hard earned cash). I've seen YS's in particular suffer terminal failure with a 5% reduction in oil content. The leaner you run an engine (getting more performance) the more you need the oil for lubrication and to a degree cooling. The only thing I mess with (seriously) in nitro content and apart from tests to destruction I have never had a catastrophic engine failure of any of my engines.
singles.Somebody above raised cooling issues with the gas saito's and i take good care to duct the incoming air around the cooling fins and out a well designed exit hole that sucks real good as they say here in aus.With our methanol cooled saito's if you tune them right i sometimes think you could just let the carby suck air through the hole you bored in the cowl to set the low speed needle.
ps i see our best v8 super car driver jamie whincup got bitten while handling a python at some zoo here...makes handpropping an fa220 seem tame
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