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FA-180 Left, FA-150 Right
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 01-20-2016 at 07:41 PM.
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I only have two of the B versions, the FA .40a and the 1.00, neither had an A version.
Maybe I should clarify that a bit, neither had an A version that looked like this
Maybe I should clarify that a bit, neither had an A version that looked like this
Last edited by Hobbsy; 01-21-2016 at 02:32 AM.
Dave it's a saito engine lying on it's side as it should be
Sr i reckon the 150 is sitting a little lower than the 180 to it's left if you look at the height of the engine mounts at the front or have you been taking photography lessons from dave?
Sr i reckon the 150 is sitting a little lower than the 180 to it's left if you look at the height of the engine mounts at the front or have you been taking photography lessons from dave?
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Look at the distance from the back plate bore to the case deck. That is the critical dimension that is different. Aside from clearance for the big end of the rod and the larger diameter spigot on the bottom of the FA-180 cylinder, all other dimensions are identical. In fact, the FA-150 case on the right was clearanced for the FA-180 rod & cylinder.
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I just now finished replacing the cam housing/cover on my 1.50. According to a lady at Horizon in 92 or 93 I got the first 1.50 sold here. Early on you could both feel and hear the cam gear when you turned the engine. Too little clearance I guess. In replacing the cam cover my valve lash, .0039 completely disappeared, there was none. My guess is that they raised the cam gear a little to rectify that.
I raised the cylinder enough to remove the pushrods and tubes, then bolted the cylinder back down. I used my Sullivan fuel bulb trick to hold the piston on TDC, I used a razor blade to hold the cam dot centered while installing the cam cover, then raised cylinder again to replace the pushrods and tubes. That's when I discovered the lash gone. It was an easy fix.
I raised the cylinder enough to remove the pushrods and tubes, then bolted the cylinder back down. I used my Sullivan fuel bulb trick to hold the piston on TDC, I used a razor blade to hold the cam dot centered while installing the cam cover, then raised cylinder again to replace the pushrods and tubes. That's when I discovered the lash gone. It was an easy fix.
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I just now finished replacing the cam housing/cover on my 1.50. According to a lady at Horizon in 92 or 93 I got the first 1.50 sold here. Early on you could both feel and hear the cam gear when you turned the engine. Too little clearance I guess. In replacing the cam cover my valve lash, .0039 completely disappeared, there was none. My guess is that they raised the cam gear a little to rectify that.
I raised the cylinder enough to remove the pushrods and tubes, then bolted the cylinder back down. I used my Sullivan fuel bulb trick to hold the piston on TDC, I used a razor blade to hold the cam dot centered while installing the cam cover, then raised cylinder again to replace the pushrods and tubes. That's when I discovered the lash gone. It was an easy fix.
I raised the cylinder enough to remove the pushrods and tubes, then bolted the cylinder back down. I used my Sullivan fuel bulb trick to hold the piston on TDC, I used a razor blade to hold the cam dot centered while installing the cam cover, then raised cylinder again to replace the pushrods and tubes. That's when I discovered the lash gone. It was an easy fix.
That's odd since the FA-120-150-180 all use the same SAI12033 cam housing. My thinking is that some of the early FA-150s may have been shipped with cam housings out of spec.
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Dan, that could be.
Jim, I replaced the cam cover because several years ago I experimented with moving the crankcase vent from the rear to the front and had the holes in the cam housing closed with 8/32x.125" screws. They were unsightly so I got rid of them. Also, it gave me an excuse to work on an engine.
Jim, I replaced the cam cover because several years ago I experimented with moving the crankcase vent from the rear to the front and had the holes in the cam housing closed with 8/32x.125" screws. They were unsightly so I got rid of them. Also, it gave me an excuse to work on an engine.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 01-21-2016 at 05:11 PM.
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Dave, I am particularly interested in your comment about using the razor blade to hold the cam dot centered.....the only time I have had to set timing on a Saito I was very careful to align the dots during assembly; you may have an easier method than I used. I would be grateful if you could explain it to me.
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks,
Jim
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Certainly, first, I'll explain how I hold the piston at TDC, I drilled a .050" hole through a glow plug post, (not easy), I then deflate a Sullivan fuel bulb, attach it to the glow plug post and release it. It pulls the piston to TDC and holds it for about 45 minutes, if you need it that long. Dan has a great method for holding the crank pin at TDC using a rubber band, Since I never completely removed the cylinder, that wouldn't work. Some guys use an Exacto knife held flat against the cam cover gasket surface to hold the cam gear with the dot pointing straight down. I just happened to have an old fashioned razor blade handy, held it flat against the gasket surface with the blade between two teeth. Then, carefully lowered the cam gear and cover onto the crankcase. I thought about cutting the heads off a couple of long M3 or 3.5M bolts to serve as guides while lowering it and still may on another engine. To check your accuracy after bolting the cam cover down and rotate the engine to TDC between the exhaust and intake stroke, if in time both valves will be open a little and will alternately open and close when you rock the crank back and forth a little. Eazy Peazy.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 01-22-2016 at 04:32 AM.
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I am moving really close to grabbing an FG 30 gasser. MY LHS has one. Here is the wing it will be pulling around. DH 94 Moth Minor. Jerry Bates design.
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Certainly, first, I'll explain how I hold the piston at TDC, I drilled a .050" hole through a glow plug post, (not easy), I then deflate a Sullivan fuel bulb, attach it to the glow plug post and release it. It pulls the piston to TDC and holds it for about 45 minutes, if you need it that long. Dan has a great method for holding the crank pin at TDC using a rubber band, Since I never completely removed the cylinder, that wouldn't work. Some guys use an Exacto knife held flat against the cam cover gasket surface to hold the cam gear with the dot pointing straight down. I just happened to have an old fashioned razor blade handy, held it flat against the gasket surface with the blade between two teeth. Then, carefully lowered the cam gear and cover onto the crankcase. I thought about cutting the heads off a couple of long M3 or 3.5M bolts to serve as guides while lowering it and still may on another engine. To check your accuracy after bolting the cam cover down and rotate the engine to TDC between the exhaust and intake stroke, if in time both valves will be open a little and will alternately open and close when you rock the crank back and forth a little. Eazy Peazy.
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They switched to an RCEXL type ignition & better carburetor on the later versions.
Check with Turboheader and Just Engines; they may have one for you. Beware the ones that crack and break, although I can't tell you which ones, except they were sold by Horizon, I think. good luick.
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Make sure it isn't one of the early FG-30s that had something other than a hall effect triggered CDI. Most of those ended up getting a complete C&H CDI conversion complete W/Walbro carburetor to run reliably.
They switched to an RCEXL type ignition & better carburetor on the later versions.
They switched to an RCEXL type ignition & better carburetor on the later versions.
I was going to get it new in box. How would I recognize if it were this old stock? There is always a possibility that it has been sitting on the shelf for a long time. So the New FG 30 has no issues?
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If its an FG-30B its the new one with the good carb and ignition.
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