Welcome to Club SAITO !
My Feedback: (1)
Pete, that I do not know, I suspect they are, the big block push rods appear to have hardened inserts in the ends and are hollow, the small block push rods may be solid. I may cut a small one in two and peak. I don't think I have any extra large block push rods. Placing the push rod in a small steel vice may bleed enough heat away to be safe.
Saito 120 Big Block pushrods
Saito 120 Big Block pushrods
Quik,nice pics and all the best for your mum.
Capt as a vague comparison to your fa180hc my fa182td was swinging a mas classic 18x6 at 8500 on 10% after five tankfuls from new,mentioned it years ago here to dave.Have you seen sr's prop figures for his fa180hc + other letters? a few years back he challenged me to a prop run,his fa180 against my fa220 and i was kidding him that my 220 would give his hi strung 180 a lazy woop arse kickin,lot's of fun.
Last edited by Rudolph Hart; 03-29-2019 at 12:43 AM.
30% nitro in a high compression 180? Try FAI fuel (0% nitro) or maybe up to 10%. Having high compression advances the ignition timing and doesn't require high nitro content. You could be experiencing detonation using 30%. Check your glow plug for a deformed coil and/or little bumps on the wire.
Things that advance ignition timing in glow engines:
Higher compression
Hotter glow plug
Higher nitro
Higher oil content
Higher prop load
Things that advance ignition timing in glow engines:
Higher compression
Hotter glow plug
Higher nitro
Higher oil content
Higher prop load
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
So I was able to find some time early this morning to cc the pig. Took 3 readings for all measurements and averaged. Largest deviation in volumetric measurements was .15 cc.
Combustion Chamber: 1.80 cc
Glow Plug (Type F): .030 cc
Mechanical Swept Vol: 13.97 cc
Effective Swept Vol: 11.4 cc (58° ABDC)
Mechanical Compression: 8.634:1
Effective Compression: 7.229:1
More later,
Lonnie
Combustion Chamber: 1.80 cc
Glow Plug (Type F): .030 cc
Mechanical Swept Vol: 13.97 cc
Effective Swept Vol: 11.4 cc (58° ABDC)
Mechanical Compression: 8.634:1
Effective Compression: 7.229:1
More later,
Lonnie
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
I do this just for fun, using the hard dimensions in inches, not rounding up or down:
Bore====1.14
Radius===.57
Radius squared==.3249 then times Pi times stroke
.3249 x .31416 x .8031496===.819779 cubic inch or 13.43377 cc.
I think I did it correctly
Bore====1.14
Radius===.57
Radius squared==.3249 then times Pi times stroke
.3249 x .31416 x .8031496===.819779 cubic inch or 13.43377 cc.
I think I did it correctly
Bore: 29mm
Stroke: 20.4mm
14.5 x 14.5 x 3.1415 x 20.4 = 13,474 cmm ÷ 1000 = 13.474 cc
Oh I know Dave, this whole thing is just for fun. My expectation for an 82 to peak an apc 14x6 at 9800 on 15% nitro is probably just a pipe dream. Won't stop me from trying and It'll take a while for me to lose interest.
[QUOTE=Glowgeek;12514123]30% nitro in a high compression 180? Try FAI fuel (0% nitro) or maybe up to 10%. Having high compression advances the ignition timing and doesn't require high nitro content. You could be experiencing detonation using 30%. Check your glow plug for a deformed coil and/or little bumps on the wire.
Things that advance ignition timing in glow engines:
Higher compression
Hotter glow plug
Higher nitro
Higher oil content
Higher prop load[/
ok
Things that advance ignition timing in glow engines:
Higher compression
Hotter glow plug
Higher nitro
Higher oil content
Higher prop load[/
ok
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
And when it tries to run backwards for about a millionth of a second when going forward at 9,000 rpm you'll know it got too advanced. Bad things happen very quickly. Usually memorable things. I know you've experienced that, who hasn't. My old 11.24 to 1 compression Saito 150 has shed blades on two separated occasions,my neighbor handed one to me over the fence that he found in his garden when we lived in Alexandria, Va.
Senior Member
You are comparing apples to oranges.
THAT is a SB Chevy that has an adjustable rocker pivot mount. That video does not apply to any engine that has a fixed rocker pivot like our Saitos, or SB Chryslers Fords etc.
yes of course, I guess I should have said, if you do both mods at the same time you will not see the difference between the outcomes of each mod..
I don't know about the 150 and 180, but the rockers on the 82 and 100 are rather level at zero lift, but .032" is not much,
you know after you guys started talking about increasing compression I had that thought about my 100, but she is all together, and the 125 carb will help fill the C-chamber anyways
Jim
I don't know about the 150 and 180, but the rockers on the 82 and 100 are rather level at zero lift, but .032" is not much,
you know after you guys started talking about increasing compression I had that thought about my 100, but she is all together, and the 125 carb will help fill the C-chamber anyways
Jim
And when it tries to run backwards for about a millionth of a second when going forward at 9,000 rpm you'll know it got too advanced. Bad things happen very quickly. Usually memorable things. I know you've experienced that, who hasn't. My old 11.24 to 1 compression Saito 150 has shed blades on two separated occasions,my neighbor handed one to me over the fence that he found in his garden when we lived in Alexandria, Va.
the first pop on the 180HC took that double nutted prop of like I didn’t even tighten the nuts
So like SRTELEMASTER150 said the best way to run the 180HC is with CH ignition.
The retard on the timeing helps a lot to get it started.
Senior Member
CDI, on the other hand, turns it into an obedient docile workhorse.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 03-29-2019 at 08:20 AM.