Welcome to Club SAITO !
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if it has steel throttle arm you should start with that low speed flush if it has plastic the low-speed is an 8 inch below. That’s about the best place to start and a1/16 turn is a lot.
also when you Overhaul the engine did you overhaul the carburetor also the gasket on the high-speed needle gets dried out and the low-speed needle and those two combined will give you fits if they have a been replaced in a while
no I do not personal have a count. literally everybody starts with the low-end needle valve flush with the outside of the arm whatever turns that is and that is the best place to start you might have to turn it in maybe a half a turn
I just ran my Saito 80
and it ran great. I started with the LS flush with the throttle arm and had to turn in the LS 1/2 a turn to get a good idle.
this is the 80 that had the shim under the cylinder that I didn’t put back in. Do to the test location now I need to find some in Incandescent lighting I tried switching out one of my lights with a LED and that didn’t work either Still showing the good old 360. So I was unable to get any tach reading’s. However on 30% nitro turning a 13-6 APC it ran and idled like a top.
and it ran great. I started with the LS flush with the throttle arm and had to turn in the LS 1/2 a turn to get a good idle.
this is the 80 that had the shim under the cylinder that I didn’t put back in. Do to the test location now I need to find some in Incandescent lighting I tried switching out one of my lights with a LED and that didn’t work either Still showing the good old 360. So I was unable to get any tach reading’s. However on 30% nitro turning a 13-6 APC it ran and idled like a top.
Last edited by Captcrunch44; 11-18-2019 at 05:00 PM.
Good job Crunchy, it's always a good feeling when rebuilds run right first time. I've had head scratchers on my last couple of Saito rebuilds. One had an intermittently leaky intake manifold and the other had some debris that kept the rear bearing from pressing in all the way. Before that it was problems with leaky valves on my two 45 engines. One leaked on the intake side and the other leaked on both sides.
Yesterday I was given an OS fs91s to fix that "wouldn't run right". Several club members had tried to tune it at the field with no success. They run better when the cam timing is correct. Heehee. Well the guy was so happy I fixed it that he handed me a box and said to keep what's inside. Dang, two more OS fs91s engines. Oh well, can't win them all.
Yesterday I was given an OS fs91s to fix that "wouldn't run right". Several club members had tried to tune it at the field with no success. They run better when the cam timing is correct. Heehee. Well the guy was so happy I fixed it that he handed me a box and said to keep what's inside. Dang, two more OS fs91s engines. Oh well, can't win them all.
Good job Crunchy, it's always a good feeling when rebuilds run right first time. I've had head scratchers on my last couple of Saito rebuilds. One had an intermittently leaky intake manifold and the other had some debris that kept the rear bearing from pressing in all the way. Before that it was problems with leaky valves on my two 45 engines. One leaked on the intake side and the other leaked on both sides.
Yesterday I was given an OS fs91s to fix that "wouldn't run right". Several club members had tried to tune it at the field with no success. They run better when the cam timing is correct. Heehee. Well the guy was so happy I fixed it that he handed me a box and said to keep what's inside. Dang, two more OS fs91s engines. Oh well, can't win them all.
Yesterday I was given an OS fs91s to fix that "wouldn't run right". Several club members had tried to tune it at the field with no success. They run better when the cam timing is correct. Heehee. Well the guy was so happy I fixed it that he handed me a box and said to keep what's inside. Dang, two more OS fs91s engines. Oh well, can't win them all.
His 91 surpass made very good power, more power than I expected really because my fa62 keeps up with my 70 surpass. Thing is I have no 60 size planes to hang a pig heavy OS 91 on, just 46 size planes and 50cc gassers. Hmmmm, I may need to fill a gap!
My Feedback: (5)
Wondering if anyone knows if saito made two different versions of the Saito 60T I have two now and looking to get a third and the carb looks different and it is in a white saito box instead of the normal gold and black box I see.
My Feedback: (6)
Now that sounds like a plan!
ps dave how is geri?
pps i hate getting run over on my ducati by texting drivers, all of whom i look forward to killing over and over in the next life
Last edited by Rudolph Hart; 11-19-2019 at 12:37 AM.
I for got to show you my indoor test cell.
I got this idea from someone on Facebook the only thing I don’t like it sets Awful high put in the prop About chest high for me.
I got this idea from someone on Facebook the only thing I don’t like it sets Awful high put in the prop About chest high for me.
Does the exhaust ducting have a fan?
ps, I'm not sure there is any height that is safe if the engine spits a prop. Face, chest, belly or a little lower and well.....not so good either
Last edited by Glowgeek; 11-19-2019 at 03:46 AM.
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
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Ok you say you are trying to tune the engine after a repair. Start with the lsn somewhere flush with the throttle arm, it doesn't really matter as long as it's set slobbering rich and the hsn more than three turns out from fully closed. Now start the engine and keep it running around 4000rpm for a minute or two till it warms up then go to full throttle and wind the hsn in gradually (leaner) till you hit max rpm then leave that needle alone because NOW and only now can you set the lsn properly, you'll be chasing your tail all day long if you don't follow that procedure in that sequence. Your peak rpm will be around two turns out on the hsn, sometimes less, depends on tank position and how far away it is etc. Dave may still have a pic of how far in the little brass screw inside the throttle arm needs to be wound in afterwards, just saying that it's quite a lot and to set the lsn throttle back till the engine runs roughly and start winding the lsn screw in, pretty soon you'll hear a big rise in revs (keep throttling back) and the engine will smooth right out when you are close. Checking transition will let you fine tune it then you can go back to full throttle and richen 200rpm or so and go flying! and flying is always the easiest way to fine tune the engine. When your finished smile a lot and have a few beers, well done.
ps dave how is geri?
pps i hate getting run over on my ducati by texting drivers, all of whom i look forward to killing over and over in the next life
ps dave how is geri?
pps i hate getting run over on my ducati by texting drivers, all of whom i look forward to killing over and over in the next life
A good angle shot of the 80 ls needle. This engine has seen many planes, it has even flown inside a storm cloud for 5 minutes or so and came out dripping wet. You gotta do something that's extra fun now and then.
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
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Your tach problems can be solved by using a dc light? Maybe one of those led lanterns?
Does the exhaust ducting have a fan?
ps, I'm not sure there is any height that is safe if the engine spits a prop. Face, chest, belly or a little lower and well.....not so good either
Does the exhaust ducting have a fan?
ps, I'm not sure there is any height that is safe if the engine spits a prop. Face, chest, belly or a little lower and well.....not so good either
yes the exhaust has a fan with varying RPMs. And depending on the engine the size of fan changes accordingly
Nice. Be careful reaching for those needles. With no way to stand behind the prop it's gonna wanna get your arm!
<br /><br /><br />Want another one?<br /><br />I am about 1/4 of the way thru selling off all my Saitos. There is a very nice one of those on the shelf to get rid of. PM me if you are interested, as it is headed for RCG Classifieds otherwise. Probably tonight or tomorrow.
so far it’s ok but yes being carful. I did run a 120 in there and I didn’t like that so much I also didn’t do to much tuning on that one I just wanted to see it run.
I get a kick out of the Youtube engine test experts. Setting fine safety examples by hanging around the fronts of running engines. Once started, I move to the backside.
in this case I was seeking a simple, specific answer to a individual question.
I followed my typical tuning routine on the engine yesterday at the field. It is running well. Found a
minor intake leak beyond the carb, contributing to the inconsistent running the day before.
Flew it on a Twist test bed last night and stuffed that sucker into the ground promptly!
Ran good though lol
all the help
So why do I still take prop readings from the front while adjusting the hsn from the rear? It seems more ergonomically comfortable that way but I probably shouldn't do it that way.