Welcome to Club SAITO !
They are nice helpful and Ma Bell and her cell daughters work every time. Plus they constantly discount prices and force you to accept free shipping....
Sheech
I have been perfectly happy getting my everyday bearings from RC Bearings on eBay. No schizophrenic website, simple,fast and easy peasy.
By using the right oil combination, those bearing changes get a lot further apart.
By using the right oil combination, those bearing changes get a lot further apart.
That is a fascinating sound bite!
Please expound. I am waiting on a quart of redlines methanol mixable 2cycle oil.
Have run Klotz, Sthil ultra hp, ( won't stay in suspension,) and standard hobby shop fuels self contained proprietary
Oil /castor and syn castor oil.
I have yet to replace any bearing that I had installed in an e bay castoff or motor I got hanging on a Craigslist dust bunny garage brick.
I always replace with Boca' stainless steel race and ball sets. (Mid price range) I have had good fortune with them. But I have no experience with other brands. Boca is a brick and motor business format in Florida. I like that!
At this point, I believe almost any of the oils available will give good long term protection to the bearings in these motors. It's just not that big a deal. Just my humble non scientific opinion.
i feel the best oil scenario concentrates on lowering cylinder temps. Reducing the propensity of galling and loss of power from thermal expansion re****ing in drag and heat, premature failure.
Love to Tinker.
Love collected wisdom
Thanks for you musings
Lol. I do the same thing but it seems like the sun is already up by the time I realize I'm too far into it...
How does the antifreeze trick work for you?
And what solvent or soap do you use to clean antifreeze off once it comes out of the tank. I'm too cheap to buy carb dip. Typically hose em down with brake clean. Accomplishes of work but doesn't do much for Aesthetics
How does the antifreeze trick work for you?
And what solvent or soap do you use to clean antifreeze off once it comes out of the tank. I'm too cheap to buy carb dip. Typically hose em down with brake clean. Accomplishes of work but doesn't do much for Aesthetics
Green standard undiluted antifreeze in a crockpot set for 170°f, warm setting, works great. About 12 hrs is long enough to remove caked on castor. 24 hrs for burnt on castor and a toothbrush scrubs it right off. It's important to not let the temp get too high or it will darken the aluminum if left in for too long. I have had no problems with darkening at 170-180°f. When the parts come out of the crock they get a quick scrub wirh a plastic bristle brush for aluminum parts or a quick scrub with a bronze brush for steel parts and then a rinse with warm water. After that use the protectant of your choice.
Note: Use only the old style undiluted standard green antifreeze, not the yellow or orange universal type.
Sorry, missed this.
Green standard undiluted antifreeze in a crockpot set for 170°f, warm setting, works great. About 12 hrs is long enough to remove caked on castor. 24 hrs for burnt on castor and a toothbrush scrubs it right off. It's important to not let the temp get too high or it will darken the aluminum if left in for too long. I have had no problems with darkening at 170-180°f. When the parts come out of the crock they get a quick scrub wirh a plastic bristle brush for aluminum parts or a quick scrub with a bronze brush for steel parts and then a rinse with warm water. After that use the protectant of your choice.
Note: Use only the old style undiluted standard green antifreeze, not the yellow or orange universal type.
Green standard undiluted antifreeze in a crockpot set for 170°f, warm setting, works great. About 12 hrs is long enough to remove caked on castor. 24 hrs for burnt on castor and a toothbrush scrubs it right off. It's important to not let the temp get too high or it will darken the aluminum if left in for too long. I have had no problems with darkening at 170-180°f. When the parts come out of the crock they get a quick scrub wirh a plastic bristle brush for aluminum parts or a quick scrub with a bronze brush for steel parts and then a rinse with warm water. After that use the protectant of your choice.
Note: Use only the old style undiluted standard green antifreeze, not the yellow or orange universal type.
Thank you Sir!
You're welcome.
Wanted to add: Use the smallest glass or plastic jar or bowl that will hold the parts and fill that with the antifreeze, then fill the crock vessel with water. Cuts down on poisoning the planet.
Even using this technique it's not a good idea to cook food in the crock ever again.
Wanted to add: Use the smallest glass or plastic jar or bowl that will hold the parts and fill that with the antifreeze, then fill the crock vessel with water. Cuts down on poisoning the planet.
Even using this technique it's not a good idea to cook food in the crock ever again.
[QUOTE=Glowgeek;12566676
Even using this technique it's not a good idea to cook food in the crock ever again.[/QUOTE]
what?
ummm do I say something now or just let it go and see who gets sick and then say something. You know “what you don’t know won’t hurt you”. Hec I thought the mashed potatoes tasted fine.
Even using this technique it's not a good idea to cook food in the crock ever again.[/QUOTE]
what?
ummm do I say something now or just let it go and see who gets sick and then say something. You know “what you don’t know won’t hurt you”. Hec I thought the mashed potatoes tasted fine.
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that is how I rebuilt my 327, crank & rods, block, heads all from different engines.
thank you Dave and Captcrunch, I will take photos of it when I get it
Jim
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
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Graupner G-Sonic 14 x 7
Saito 82-B idle
Saito 82-B max rpm with Graupner 14 x 7
Thanks Jim, we did and we destroyed a 21 pound turkey, the cooking was a joint effort. Then we watched Christmas movies.
Jinxter, I got that 82 one piece at a time, but it did cost me a dime, or two.
The 82-B, in spite of it's reputation as a big bore, short stroke engine is a real torquer, valve timing has a greater influence on the torque curve than the bore and stroke.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 11-29-2019 at 03:28 AM. Reason: Add content
Graupner G-Sonic 14 x 7
Saito 82-B idle
Saito 82-B max rpm with Graupner 14 x 7
Thanks Jim, we did and we destroyed a 21 pound turkey, the cooking was a joint effort. Then we watched Christmas movies.
Jinxter, I got that 82 one piece at a time, but it did cost me a dime, or two.
The 82-B, in spite of it's reputation as a big bore, short stroke engine is a real torquer, valve timing has a greater influence on the torque curve than the bore and stroke.
We watched the Lions do what they do...
My 82 has no "b" showing on it. Have I run into a rarity?
Well as wasp said i’ll belated happy turkey day to everyone
i started to put this 100 together and found it had a bent crank too. what the hec? Someone said it’s hard to bend a 100 crank and now I have two and there back ordered at horizon. But that’s ok I have a couple more I can wait.
i started to put this 100 together and found it had a bent crank too. what the hec? Someone said it’s hard to bend a 100 crank and now I have two and there back ordered at horizon. But that’s ok I have a couple more I can wait.
My Feedback: (6)
Well as wasp said i’ll belated happy turkey day to everyone
i started to put this 100 together and found it had a bent crank too. what the hec? Someone said it’s hard to bend a 100 crank and now I have two and there back ordered at horizon. But that’s ok I have a couple more I can wait.
i started to put this 100 together and found it had a bent crank too. what the hec? Someone said it’s hard to bend a 100 crank and now I have two and there back ordered at horizon. But that’s ok I have a couple more I can wait.