AUTOMAG

Good news here.My Jammin RTR has shipped and is on the way.Tower hobbies recommends 10-15% nitro for the RTR but ill go with the 20%to run cooler.I like that idea.I dont need a class winning engine for sure since im just learning .The stock .28 should be good enough for now.If that engine goes,I would probably want to put a nice quality .21 in there.Trust me, Im sure ill be back with some set up or adjustment questions.Derby that is some impressive iron you got there.N.Y. is not a class III state so no MP5s here.Glad you reload cause even though 9mm is relatively cheap ,at that rate you could be broke in a heart beat.Sure wish my M1 was an M2

J13ntv

My Feedback: (1)

What is the normal runtime on average for these truggies with a .28 in it? I am debating between three to four engines...

Nova 528xr
Nova P5
RB TM928
Ofna Picco .28

I know the Picco is out of the league of the other three engines however it is new and stat wise looks to be promising.. Time will tell I guess. However I am not sure to go with a .28 like the RB or 528 or go .21 with the p5 to get a decent amount more of runtime. Any imput from people that have one of these engines or knows of someone with one? Thanks

mini ripper

"What engine do i put in my truggy" this is the question?

Now then this is how I see it. The CRT is only 1/2 a kg heavier than a 1/8th buggy! With this in mind what engine you put in your CRT depends alot on what you are doing with it. I am going to race mine this summer and I have gone for the RB WS7II this is a .21" motor with 8 ports this motor will rev forever and will not have the low down torque of a .28" but will be much faster at mid and high revs than a .28". The monster engines are built for torque and are lazy on the revs side.
If you are going to bash about the house its a .28" you want if you are looking for a very fast race engine its got to be a .21" and a high end one at that either a Nova Rossi or a RB you will also need a good pipe to go with it aswell. I have both a long and short pipe. Short for more torque low down and long buggy pipe pipe for a long high speed track.

Hope this helps!

crazysavage

All the engines you have mentioned will make you competitive if you can use the power. Your safe bet, if your concerned about fuel mileage would be the P5(plenty of torque and top end) this beast will please you also
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/4825

flyinJ

hi i am looking to get a crt but i dont have any money so if you look at my wanterd ad i will trade you a cessna 182 airplane that has never been flown for a crt KIT that is either new assembled or still in the box take a l@@k im looking to race this summer and i think crt is the way to go WILL TRADE

skmotoxxx

Hey, I just broke in my crt rtr this weekend and I gotta say that the stock .28 motor is actually pretty impressive for me. Of course I am new to this but I have seen many trucks running before and I would have to say for comparisons this truggy kicks butt right out of the box. The motor actually carries the front end too high until you let off the throttle. I haven't got the suspension sorted out for that yet but I don't think it will take too much to get that taken care of. I haven't come to a conclusion on what radio package I am gonna get yet, but I'm thinking the M11 with the Spektrum set-up is gonna be the winner. I already had an interferance runaway with my am radio that came with the truggy, fortunately nothing was hurt! Gonna run to the track tomorrow and see if I can shake down the suspension set-up (it is good to live in So Cal!). Hey, does anyone have an idea of a good temp. range to run the engine at that comes with this thing. I never really got it hotter than 260 this weekend and it seemed to be running a little rich.

crazysavage

I've been telling people about that engine for quite some time and noone seems to hear me!. Put a pipe tuned for high end like a JP2 and gear up to 15tooth bell and it will cut down on the squatting of the rear end and give you very good high end. 260 is a little high this soon for that engine, run a little richer for a few more tanks. You may be running hot if your on grass during your breakin. Dont tune by tempature, if it's making good satisfying power, richen it up a little, just make sure your runnin around 210 220 or better if you richen it up. Try to turn in alittle more preload on the rear shocks and less preload on the front shocks so the arms a little beloww level in the front and turn the droop adjusters out so the front suspension arms drop down further. This will allow your front tires to stay hooked up longer when you take off and power out of turns. You may want to try 1 or 2 degree anti squat blocks in the rear to reduce the intense bite the CRT has on take off, you also have the option to use a less trigger finger when you take off. When your out at the track, make one adjustment at a time and drive it until you notice a change, that way you wont be chasing the set up and you will be sure what change did what. Ooops, I'm sorry, you may know all this already and I'm pushing my ideas on you... I just get excited when some one gets a new race vehicle. Good luck.

Dirby

someone please tell me the best brake in procedures to brake on a os 21 v spec.
thx Dirby.

AUTOMAG

If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your OS's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory OS settings are very rich on every OS I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

AUTOMAG

`The above post was copied from a post by STEPHEN BESS on the "Starting Grid" message board as he tried to help another member get more life and performance out of his OS motor. This break-in method should apply to virtually any ABC hobby nitro engine (except for ringed engines).

Jammin_Lee

are truggies for bashing at all

mini ripper

Yea for sure they are for bashing do what you like with it.

flyinJ

i am loooking for a motor that is cheap and will be at the top of the line up every time im a very good driver and i was thinking of getting a nova rossi because of the good feedback i heard about them and a jammin 2 pipe for high end RIGHT i am new into the truggy scene but not nitro have been doing it since i was 8 so give me all the good tips and set ups a thanks for the feedback on my other ?. [sm=drowning.gif][sm=biggrin.gif]

skmotoxxx

Hey all. Took my truck to the track for the first time last night. Couple of things I found with the RTR truck. First off the truck didn't have any small pieces of rubber hose on the brake servo pins. Basicly it wasn't adjusted at all and I had no brakes. I got that adjusted out. Had a good time, the truck tracked pretty straight but had a severe push in the corners. I didn't do anything there yet to try to solve it but I have a setup I'm gonna try. At the end of the night the right front shock unscrewed from the bottom attach and the shock came apart off a jump. So I figured that to be a good time to tear down the truck and check it out. So far I have found many a nut loose or loosening AND the differentials have no oil in them. they just had a smidgen of grease in them. Also the shocks really don't feel like they have much oil dampening going on. I haven't taken them apart yet to check them out but... So anyway, just a heads up to the RTR owners that it would be wise to tear down the truck fresh out of the box and go through it. Other than that, the truck rips!! every truck at the track was a jammin and let me tell you they were flyin. Hey crazysavage, keep giving me the ideas, that is why I am here and asking. Thanks.

crazysavage

I can clearly see that the demand for the truck is causing our freindly asian neighbors to downgrade the assembly quality of this truck. It happens every time. It sucks but I have always said that there aint no such thing as a ready to run and if you want tohave the most fun in RC, before track preparation is the only way to go.

wcgreiner

My Feedback: (2)

Novarossi motors are the best motor's that i have ever owned. The idle great they start right up and they last a long time. You get what you pay for in the novarossi brand so my suggestion for you is go with a p5 they are great motors.

badxlt

but if you cant spend that much on a nova then i like th machs theyare under 200 and have been a very good motors to me.

badxlt

well heres my new toy

badxlt

well now heres my new toy i hope

PillowPants

Hey guys. I'm kind of new to truggies. I was goign to get a buggy, but everybody was telling me that i'd probably want to eventually turn it into a truggy anyways.. So I think the Jammin X-1 CRT Kit looks very promising! I have a few questions though about the kit in general..

-What are the weakest part(s) of the truck?

-Is the LRP.28 Spec3 (not yet released) a good engine choice, judging by how the Spec2 preformed?

I'm going to be using a JR reciever so I can just use it (I'm not a big transmiter kind of guy.. If it can adjust EPA, st trim and thr trim then it's goog enough for me!). I'll probably just pick up some servos at the LHS.

ringneck

here are some of the upgrades that are popular with the crt crowd, racers edge rear aluminum hubs, z brace, mono engine mount, aluminum upper steering brace get one from kingheadz they are the best and aluminum upper b block arm holder the stock one is plastic and the upper suspension is a high stress area. may whant to get the aluminum wing stay posts and aluminum radio tray posts to. this may seem like alot but you can get all this for a tick over a 100.00 bill and this should get you along ways. here is a tip dont run the stock wing,it will cause the wing stays to snap like twigs if you flip it. a regular 1/8th scale wing is the way to go it has alot more flex to it and will not cost you 10.00 everytime you run it or race it. get the new hyper 8 wing and put it on that will look SWANKY!!! thats what im doing. hope this helps.

ringneck

badxlt that is a swanky looking ride dude! i love pink and black thats what my ttr was painted and you wont have to worry about some other ass bag copying youre sceme. being different is cool.

_Wyvern_

My Feedback: (7)

WOW!!! I just got done with the initial break in with about 3/4 of a gallon and this thing hauls ass! I am in love!!! I forgot to locktight the left rear wheel and had to chase it down but otherwise this was a great build!

badxlt

its red [:@] it just looks pink in pics but it is a wierd red[:'(] ok its pinkies red

badxlt

but ok i have a question for any one that can help. i just bought this truck and a sport werks cyclone bump box and the bump box wont start it. the box will turn it over but not fast enough to start. and i know that my motor starts and runs good because i have a old box that is a pile and it started it right up. and i then tried the sport werks box again and nothing it just wont spin enough to do the job. so has any one had that problem to. and i loosened the plug and every thing i have been around this hobby for some time now so i do know how to start one. help please