Rust-Oleum?
#1
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Rust-Oleum?
I will be needing to apply paint for the first time to a cowl on a Plane I will be starting shortly. I read where people are using rust-oleum. Is this the type found at hardware stores in a spray can? And does anyting need to be applied to it when complete.
Thanks...
Thanks...
#2
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RE: Rust-Oleum?
KitBuilder,
I have successfully used the rattle can Rustoleum. I believe most of the colors are fuel proof, except the silver. I use it on gas powered planes and have no problem. Rustoleum is much easlier to deal with than hobby paints. Very good color coverage and hard to make run.
Have fun!
Bedford
I have successfully used the rattle can Rustoleum. I believe most of the colors are fuel proof, except the silver. I use it on gas powered planes and have no problem. Rustoleum is much easlier to deal with than hobby paints. Very good color coverage and hard to make run.
Have fun!
Bedford
#3
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Rust-Oleum?
Yes, it is that Rustoleum and I use it frequently on my gas and my glow models. I've never had a problem with glow fuel getting on it.
Another plus is that some of their colors match monokote colors perfectly - even better than LusterKote does. For example, their dark blue matches Insignia Blue monokote and their dark red matches the dark red monokote. I've used both.
No clear - cote is necessary but I highly recommend that you let the paint cure for at least one full week before exposing it to fuels.
Preparation is critical. Use only Rustoleum primer; don't mix manufacturers. After the primer dires (an hour or so), rub it down with very fine steel wool to get the surface smooth. Apply the paint in two coats with the second or final coat applied a little heavier. Practice so that you don't get any runs.
Works like a champ.
Mike
Another plus is that some of their colors match monokote colors perfectly - even better than LusterKote does. For example, their dark blue matches Insignia Blue monokote and their dark red matches the dark red monokote. I've used both.
No clear - cote is necessary but I highly recommend that you let the paint cure for at least one full week before exposing it to fuels.
Preparation is critical. Use only Rustoleum primer; don't mix manufacturers. After the primer dires (an hour or so), rub it down with very fine steel wool to get the surface smooth. Apply the paint in two coats with the second or final coat applied a little heavier. Practice so that you don't get any runs.
Works like a champ.
Mike
#4
My Feedback: (2)
RE: Rust-Oleum?
Yep! Regular rattle can spray system. I've also used it with no problems, except for grey. The grey for some reason needed about a week to dry, then it was ok. The other colors I can fly after 3 or 4 days. Used it on glow up to 15% and gas. I also use it on solartex.
Edwin
Edwin
#5
RE: Rust-Oleum?
hi can use almost any paint on gas engines- latex etc. -i was told that rustoleum is fuel proof- but only the ones with the scew number having the number 7 at the ending part of the scew number- (or 777 ) have used white and black for 15 years-work real good===tony===
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RE: Rust-Oleum?
,,,and the Ace Hardware store's have their house brand of paint,, called,,"rust stop",, same thing as rustoleum,, 16oz can,, flat fan ajustable nozzle,,, about $3 a can,, good stuff.
#8
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RE: Rust-Oleum?
Is Rustoleum Clear fuel proof? I painted a P51 Mustang with Rustoleum silver, and i would like to top coat it with Rustoleum clear, or is there something better to use?
#10
RE: Rust-Oleum?
I just tested rustoleum clear (both gloss and satin). I let it set about a week before putting raw glow fuel on it. It was over rustoleum white on Worldtex covering. I used 5% nitro fuel. Both gloss and satin were affected by the fuel. The fuel made the satin shine more. The gloss changed a little also. The clear did not gum up or anything. I don't know what would happen if repeated several times as when flying. I decided to just paint the worldtex covering with rustoleum white and the trim colors without using a clear coat.
Ralph White, Neoga, IL
Ralph White, Neoga, IL
#13
My Feedback: (2)
RE: Rust-Oleum?
I've used it on ultracoat, not monocoat. It does ok. Clean it real good then some 0000 steel wool and it sticks pretty good. The nice thing about rustoleum is it stays fairly flexible after its cured. If it sags in the sun, you can reshrink it without cracking the paint. BUT, you have to use a clean white cotton t-shirt type material laid on top of the finish, then move the iron over the cloth where the wrinkle is (dont let the cloth move around though) and the wrinkle will shrink right up. Dont paint areas that will have any friction like cowl contact points. It will rub off. The mustang below is grey ultracoat and all the rest is rustoleum. Except around the cowl contact points. Had to redo that with red ultracoat.
Edwin
Edwin
#14
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RE: Rust-Oleum?
I ran across one color that wasn't fuel proof. I forget which one. They have goofy names , like Almond etc. It was a tan color. They have about 3 shades of tan, so I'm not sure which one it was. I was trying to match cream Monokote. I decided to use the cream Lustrekote, but the brown in the pic ( on the fuselage )is rustoleum.
#17
RE: Rust-Oleum?
Since my 2/25/08 post I have let my test panel set. Now I again tried raw fuel on the gloss clear and satin clear. I used 30 percent nitro fuel this time. After setting for 4 more weeks the clear gloss now does not seem to be affected by the raw fuel. I believe it is comletely fuel proof. The satin clear did not gum up or anything but the dirt from the dirty rag I was using to clean the raw fuel off seemed to get into the roughness of the satin clear. I was not using any cleaner with the rag. I then cleaned the satin with windex and a paper towel and the dirt came out but I believe the fuel affected the sating a little. Seems to have more shine and not as clean as before the raw fuel was put on it.
My conclusion is I believe the gloss clean is fuel proof after several (more than 2) weeks but the satin clean may not be. I would suggest testing the satin clear on a test panel before using it on an airplane.
My conclusion is I believe the gloss clean is fuel proof after several (more than 2) weeks but the satin clean may not be. I would suggest testing the satin clear on a test panel before using it on an airplane.
#19
RE: Rust-Oleum?
There is a big difference between cold raw fuel and hot exhaust. I had disastrous results with a Rustoleum finish on a Stick 40 Plus - the plans actually recommended it. It cured for at least two weeks, and in a test with cold fuel it seemed fine. But in a few weeks of flying the paint downstream from the exhaust, all the way back to the tail, turned into a gooey, oil-soaked mess. Jim
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RE: Rust-Oleum?
ORIGINAL: buzzard bait
There is a big difference between cold raw fuel and hot exhaust. I had disastrous results with a Rustoleum finish on a Stick 40 Plus - the plans actually recommended it. It cured for at least two weeks, and in a test with cold fuel it seemed fine. But in a few weeks of flying the paint downstream from the exhaust, all the way back to the tail, turned into a gooey, oil-soaked mess. Jim
There is a big difference between cold raw fuel and hot exhaust. I had disastrous results with a Rustoleum finish on a Stick 40 Plus - the plans actually recommended it. It cured for at least two weeks, and in a test with cold fuel it seemed fine. But in a few weeks of flying the paint downstream from the exhaust, all the way back to the tail, turned into a gooey, oil-soaked mess. Jim
#21
RE: Rust-Oleum?
Hi Buzzardbait and 80stars.
After reading comments in various forums I was lead to believe Rust-Oleum to be fuel proof. I have just finished painting a new Aeromaster in red, white, and blue using Rust-Oleum over Worldtex covering. I was NOT planning to use clear coat over it. What do you recommend I do to correct the problems you had with Rust-Oleum? Is there a clear coat you (or anyone else) would recommend to spray over the Rust-Oleum? What colors did you have experience with? I assume you cleaned the model off after each flying session. What cleaner did you use?
Thank you,
Ralph White, Neoga, IL
After reading comments in various forums I was lead to believe Rust-Oleum to be fuel proof. I have just finished painting a new Aeromaster in red, white, and blue using Rust-Oleum over Worldtex covering. I was NOT planning to use clear coat over it. What do you recommend I do to correct the problems you had with Rust-Oleum? Is there a clear coat you (or anyone else) would recommend to spray over the Rust-Oleum? What colors did you have experience with? I assume you cleaned the model off after each flying session. What cleaner did you use?
Thank you,
Ralph White, Neoga, IL
#23
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RE: Rust-Oleum?
The only issue I have had with Rustoleum is that it is a very hard paint and there are a few spots where it has chipped out in open bay areas. I used John Deere green and yellow over Koverall with nitrate dope to seal the fabric. The plane is several years old and I have had no fuel related issues with the paint. I did not use a clear coat.
#24
RE: Rust-Oleum?
Every time the Rustoleum subject comes up you get conflicting experiences. I think it's because the way it is formulated changes. The problem is, from one color to the other, or one year to the other, who really knows what the stuff actually is? Jim
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RE: Rust-Oleum?
help! i want to match monokote dark red and i don't see dark red listed in the colors. what is the matching color! it looks like sunrise yellow is perfect for the yellow monokote.