Topgun2mo

My Feedback: (45)

Hi everyone,

I thought I would start a thread on the construction of my Avonds F-15. This is my first venture into the turbine world and I hung around this group for a while now taking in all I could about the world of jets before I made my decision on what to buy. In choosing my subject, I had several requirements:

1) Subject must me scale
2) It must possess trainer qualities-easy to fly
3) It must be a pre-engineered package for assured success.
4) The airframe must be robust and a proven performer.
5) It must be a good value-alotta aircraft for the money!

From all of the information I gathered, the Avonds F-15 fit the bill. Actually the F-16 he has could have probably filled the bill also, but I chose the F-15 because of it's easy to fly reputation. Have no fear about dealing out of the country with Philip as his customer service is outstanding!!!

I received my kit April 21st, I had it shipped to New Orleans International Airport and cleared it through customs myself.(declaring that this aircraft is for personal use (in person at the customs office) is essential if you want to avoid a broker fee/bond fee since the value of the kit was over 2k. The BAX agent led me to customs office himself as the terminal is not well marked and when I returned he waived the handling fee since I was picking it up. The only additional charge was 9.00 fee at the customs office and a sixty something charge on my credit card for currency conversion.

Topgun2mo

My Feedback: (45)

I unpackaged the kit after stopping by work to show it to woketman. The thing is packaged in a bullet proof box! I was really suprised at how well this was packaged.

I washed the fiberglass parts to get rid of mold release. Cut out openings in the fuse as directed and then I joined the nose of the aircraft to the body.

Kevin Barr lined the interior of all of his gear doors with 1/8" basswood, but I opted to line the interior of mine with 1/32 ply and I glassed with 3/4oz cloth. I cut out all of the gear doors with a Zona razor saw and added 1/16 ply to the interior for gear door stops. I elected to use DUI offset gear door hinges based on a recomendation from Kevin Greene) and I taped my doors in place and installed the hinges using Hysol 9462 (thanks woketman)

The wood in the pic is what I used as a guide when cutting out the doors. I stuck it down with 2 pieces of double-sided foam tape about 1.5" each. You don't need too much of that foam tape as it holds really well and a pain to rub off of the fuse. Note how I repositioned one of the blades on my razor saw to allow completing of the cuts in the corners.

Topgun2mo

My Feedback: (45)

When I got home from work last night, I untaped my gear doors and none of my doors would open!!!!

For the MAINS, I unpinned the hinges(neat feature) and sanded a bevel on the side of the door that has the hinges. They now work perfectly!

For the nose gear I wasn't so lucky. I found that after I sanded the required bevel the door wouldn't open all of the way so I had to remove the hinges and grind off all of the adhesive. The plans had stated to make the nose gear hinge line 3mm inside of the fuse line. I had modified some of the DUI hinges to accomplish that. BIG MISTAKE. I also should have heeded on of Kevin Barr's photographs that show the fuse portion of the hinge attaching directly to the fuse(I had mounted it to the 1/32 ply) I corrected that also. I glued new hinges to the fuse/door just like I did for the mains. Tonight when I get home I'll see if that did the trick.


Pictures will come.

Topgun2mo

My Feedback: (45)

As on the main gear doors, I reglued the nose door hinges with the fuse portion of the DUI hinge right next to the door opening. These DUI hinges sure give the doors a solid feel.

The Scale Grille installation is next!

Topgun2mo

My Feedback: (45)

I joined the front and the rear fuselage parts with Hysol 9462 and I reinforced them with glass tape(included in the kit) and Hysol 9462. Below you can see what I use to do the reinforcing:

I cut my glass tape to length. Cut a ziploc sides and zipper off. Apply epoxy to both sides of the tape and fold into the plastic. I use the roller to ensure the tape is properly impregnated. I use the squeeze-out to "butter" the joint prior to application of tape.
This method is a neat way to do reinforcement!

Topgun2mo

My Feedback: (45)

I had taped off the exterior of the upper and lower fuse joints and aligned them with 1/4x1/4 balsa CA'd to the tape. As you can see the joints came out excellent with only minor filling required.

Upper Joint

Topgun2mo

My Feedback: (45)

LowerFuseJoint-Same result!

Topgun2mo

My Feedback: (45)

This is the interior view of the fuse joint...kinda hard to see as the flash washed it out, but I used the wife's compact to work the upper joint as seen in the reflection in the mirror.

Topgun2mo

My Feedback: (45)

Here is a shot of the dowels and BVM Latches(included in the kit) on the large upper hatch

Topgun2mo

My Feedback: (45)

The hatch fit in front prior to any filling:

Topgun2mo

My Feedback: (45)

The hatch fit at the rear of the hatch prior to any filling:

I personally thought the fit of the hatch to the fuse was excellent. Yes there is some sanding and filling to do, but I really thought it fit well!!!!!

Topgun2mo

My Feedback: (45)

I added 1/4 ply to the 8mm main landing gear supports as suggested by a few patrons of RCU. Note I haven't as yet through drilled the holes in the new wood.

Topgun2mo

My Feedback: (45)

I choose to use the HD Spring Air Retracts that Philip suggests along with his custom machined struts and Aluminum Wheels, hard rubber tires with BVM brakes(kit option). I found the workmanship on his aluminum wheels and struts to be EXCELLENT and I really like the way that the hub is split which makes it super easy to change the hard rubber tire after you wear it out. Philip was adamant about using his tires as he feels that the other tires on the market are just too hard and transmit much to much abuse to the struts and airframe. Something he feels is easily avoided. The tires are very firm with just a little give that offers shock absorption. The nose wheel pictured is a BVM Rafale unit.

I had also purchased BVM T-33 wheels and brakes to go on this aircraft, but I have decided to use Philip's on my F-15.

Topgun2mo

My Feedback: (45)

Here is a shot of the bottom with the gear doors closed.

Topgun2mo

My Feedback: (45)

Prior to bulkhead installation, I am going to install the CNC Fuse Vents (kit option) This is how you receive them from Avonds. First you sand both sides of the sheets with 400 sandpaper. You then remove the vent parts from the sheets (one vent at a time!!!) with a razor blade and assemble prior to installing in fuse.

I will start laying out the fuse for the vents next. That's it for now!

JohnnyA

My Feedback: (1)

Mike,
How do you feel about the foam inserts for stiffening the main tires?

Seems there ought to be a better way.

A fellow modeller has used a two part silicone type substance to make small part molds that I think would work well in place of the foam if we could figure a good way of getting it into the tires. Maybe inject it through a small hole in the tread of the tire?
Johnny

weasel33

Hi Mike
looks like your having fun building your F15.i also have one
and i dont know if you are going to fit the air brake kit but on my maiden the top hatch blew off i presume it just bent up in the middle until the rear pegs came out and flew but since i fitted the airbrake kit no more problems nice and stiff and able to take the
air bleed off from the NACA vents in the air intakes

Its a great first time jet mine has an AMT Mercury HP in it at 20lbs thrust and weighs 23lbs dry the only thing it wont do is sustained vertical other than that its just like a high speed pattern ship

Enjoy

Brian

Topgun2mo

My Feedback: (45)

Hi Johnny!

Philip used to sell the foam inserts to put into the Robart tires but for turbines he has this new tire (to be used with his machined rims) that is a hard rubber that won't flatten yet still provides cushion. I imagine foam inserts inserted into a softer tire would work, but I would not leave my model on the wheels until right before I would fly. I do believe they would tend to flatten over time.

You would need to use an RTV that doesn't require one plane of the material to be exposed to ambient atmosphere, such as one component silicone adhesive. I am unfamiliar with the requirements of 2 part silicones.

Hope this helps

Mike

p.s. I started to work on the cockpit kit!

Topgun2mo

My Feedback: (45)

Hi Brian,

Thanks for the heads up, but I have purchased the airbrake option so I shouldn't have that problem! It just looks too cool to be without one! It won't get installed until the fuse formers are installed and the fuse seams sanded and filled. I think the fuctional fuse vents would keep internal pressure down too.

Have you attempted landings with the airbrake out yet? How are they compared to landings without the airbrake?

weasel33

Have deployed it at altitude and let me tell you it WORKS
have not plucked up the courage yet to try a landing with it
i just bring it in with a high alpha approach balancing with power and elevator and as the wheels touch i move the left slider on my zap halfway this brings the air brake up then as it slows gently move the slider slowly all the way this puts the wheel brakes on,i use an electronic valve for the brakes it bleeds the air off but it gives me proportional brakes

I should imagine flying onto a runway would give more opportunity to use the air brake for landing but i fly from a 400ft
grass field and landings have to be just right,one day i will pluck up the courage,if it could be made into a three position airbrake
now that would make a difference.

Have you come across a scale pilot yet mine sadly lacks one

Brian

Topgun2mo

My Feedback: (45)

I had purchased the Nauwa cockpit kit and pilot that Philip sells from a fellow right here on RCU but I must say that the pilot looks kinda poor and I would like a better one too! Someone told me that they have installed a MGA pilots head on the plastic full body pilot that Philip sells. I'm keeping my eye out for something better too!

Countryboy

My Feedback: (25)

Mike,

Since the nose to fuse joint can take some occasional abuse, a idea that I picked up from a guy at Superman last year was to drill a series of holes through the fuse and nose joint flange area and lace with carbon fiber tow.

Attached is a pic with the red dots depicting the drill holes on the flange as an example. This would beef the nose to fuse joint considerably.

Topgun2mo

My Feedback: (45)

Hi Countryboy,

Thanks for the tip. I note in your picture however that the entire "v" seems to be trimmed out. I only trimmed out about 1/2 of what is in the pic. I did trim to the marks that seemed to be the most prominent. Mine did match the pics where it showed the final trim.

Thanks

KevinBarr

My Feedback: (27)

Mike,

GREAT THREAD...Makes me want to do another one!!!

Keep up the great work.

Kevin

Topgun2mo

My Feedback: (45)

Thanks Kevin!

Your thread was the orginal inspiration for me to start this project! Yours included so much good information, I thought I would fill in on what it takes to get it to where you started!

Thanks Again!