rikybob

Hi again Don,

Yes, just email customer service, tell them you need the individual part and the will hook you up!

R/B

aircrash

Hi again Rikybob,

That`s a CP, it may not be a belt driven but still a CP. A bit easier to repair. But a bit small though (if I bought another then it would be a 500 size, that`s what I`d like) and a bit expensive.
I have not seen it, so I can`t tell how hard (or easy) is to fly. It`s not so popular in my country, mostly the T-Rex (too expensive) and the esky Belt CP is arround.
If it flies better than a Belt CP (both out of the box) then go for it, else the Belt CP is bigger, heavier, with inexpensive spare parts and also cheaper. But cause of its weight when it crashes it crashes for good, and you have also the belt to take care.

But you can go to a field that there are others who fly and see not by videos but live. And ask.
From some videos I`ve found a honeybee to be marvelous, but it`s just a little heli.

So you can take first the heli then the Tx.

Spiros

PS. I get some sleep from time to time.

aircrash

And I just noticed they mention this: <span class="ContentText">Plus, it&rsquo;s big enough to fly outdoors even if there&rsquo;s a little wind.
And that`s logical as it weights too low for an outdoor use.
</span>

barak1001

It's not a "transitional bird" it's a Blade CP2 with a crippled radio.

You'd be better off buying a Trex-450 clone with a cheap EXI 6 ch 2.4ghz programmable radio for the same $200. The 450 class is heavier and less "twitchy". Since it's a clone you can buy the entire mechanics of the helicopter in plastic for under $30. Yeah, that's right you can get an entire 450 helicopter (without electronics) for what it would cost you to buy a set of blades and a canopy for an SR. When you do decide to upgrade to CNC parts, you can get a CNC alloy version of the same clone for $47 without the electronics.

[link=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8467&Product_Name=HK-450_CCPM_3D_Helicopter_Kit__%28Align_T-rex_Compat.%29]HK450 (Plastic)[/link]

[link=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10413&Product_Name=HK-450MT_CCPM_3D_Fully_Alloy_Helicopter_Kit_%28Align_ T-Rex_Compat.%29]HK450 (Alloy)[/link]

[link=http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10186&Product_Name=HK-6X_2.4Ghz_6ch_w/_5_Model_Memory_TX_&_RX_%28Mode_2%29_]2.4ghz programmable radio with receiver[/link]

rikybob

Hi again Tony,

You could be right, I have been duped by flashy ads before. [:@] Perhaps it could be named BLADE CR for Crippled Radio??

Unfortunatly, I think I have more money than skill. Buying all the gooodies piece meal and then building same and then tuning/triming/dialing in and then really kinda not having any appreciable skills and generally NOT knowing what I am doing and worse because of my personal condtion, no one to instruct me but you lovely people (I think vicarious instruction has its limitations) []

I know! Can you come be my life coach?

I might have to go with the "transitional bird" or as it says in the Flashy, mesmerizing ad "Next step".

(I hope you get my tounge-in-cheekyness?)

Regards,

R/B


EDIT: PS Amazing prices on the clone stuff!!!!

aircrash

Hi everybody,

I still waiting the new mixer to arrive.
But I have managed to make the old work. It seems the pot has got dirt and/or loose contact (inside). It turned it clockwise/ counterclockwise up to the point the mixer works, and rudder action is working 100%. (it was not working at all)

But still the Telebee GR201 gyro won`t initialize.

I`ve tried to use a separate BEC, not use any of the Hobbywing Pentium 30A esc`s.
1. Power first the electronics then the esc.
2. Power first the esc then the electronics.
3. Power them at the same time (ground was common).

No success either, still the gyro won`t initialise. Led keeps blinking.
I would say the gyro is faulty but it gets initialized only when I put it after the mixer. So I don`t know for sure.

I`m afraid the problem may be more complex.
1. The gyro may not be compatible with the stock BOL Rx and while Rx sends the rudder OK signal it is too late for the gyro. Gyro sees no rudder signal. The fact that when it is connected after the mixer then it gets initialized may show that thing.
2. The gyro is not compatible with the esc. But I tried to connect a spare servo I have (without using the mixer) as when it was used to a single rotor heli, still no initialize.
3. The gyro may be faulty. It was not bought from a shop, so they may have burnt it somehow.

I`ll wait for the mixer and I may buy one gyro. That time something that definitely works, one just as Simon`s.
That conversion has not gone well for me. The basic mistake was to buy a mixer and a gyro from another user (not from here).

You can see the BEC I used. It`s 5V 2A, and the ICis the L78S05CV and here`s the photo showing that little thing.

A help would be appreciated.


Spiros

sgbfly

Hi Spiros,

I sympathise with your frustration

With my set up the gyro wont initialise if

a) The transmitter is not on first before you connect a lipo
b) If it is moved during initialization

Do you think the gyro and mixer had suffered a crash in a previous application. Did you buy them from the same person?

Does it initialise with no mixer in the otherwise complete set-up?

Simon

aircrash

Hi Simon,

Thanks for the support, technological and sympathy.

Well, it works perfect with the stock 3in1 &amp; brushed motors. I have no brushed to brushless converter to test, but stock brushed works excellent.
If I don`t connect the gyro and just connect the mixer to CH3 &amp; 4 then the motors work OK and rudder works OK too (completely cut off the corresponding motor when rudder is 100%). That`s only happen after I messed up a lot with the pot.

They were bought from the same owner. Gyro seems new, but it may be faulty.

The bad part is I have to wait. I wait for more than a month now with no flying at all. That`s why I decided to built another stock BOL and even got spare parts for it, spare 3in1 and spare set of motors.
Have to wait for them though to finish the second BOL. But then I hope no waiting for me, at least one will fly.
I should buy a gyro already, as the money is not the problem. Already spent a fortune for spare parts, stock or for various modification.

Now I hope the mixer arrives, test. Then buy a new gyro. One like yours as you`ve already tested it with the EK2-0426 stock BOL Rx.
The other good part is that Ihave ordered a EK2-0426 Rx for the second BOL. I`ll test it and it may initialize sooner and be compatible with that gyro (if that`s the actually problem).

Spiros.

sgbfly

Hi Spiros,

Is it possible that the old model telebee gr201 gyro is not compatible with the 2.4GHz receiver?

That would be a shame

Simon

sgbfly

Hi Spiros,

Another thought, I think its unlikely you have 2 faults. Is there anything you can test the gyro on. Do you have an old lama v3 or something with an fm rx you can test it with? It maybe terrible luck and you have both:

1) You have a bad mixer
2) The gyro does not like the 2.4 GHz rx

ouch!

SImon

sgbfly

Hi Everyone,

Peter has spotted quite a bad mistake in my BL guide.

"page 12 - point 7 - line 5 (and in the picture showing two motors) <span style="font-weight: bold;">change </span>(0.4mm and 0.9mm) -&gt; (4mm and 9mm)"

I will sort this monday / tuesday depending which side of the world you are

Sorry

Simon

sgbfly

Hi Spiros,

Just a thought....

Peter is about to try a different telebee (GR302 or turnigy clone). (Hobbycity have changed their links to point at a different product so I am unsure which he has). Anyway, if you can wait a couple of days before you re-order I think it will be a good idea to hear Peter's results first. I know he plans to go boardless this weekend

Simon

aircrash

Hi again Simon,

I only have a working 3ch heli.
Thanks for the additional info and the responce of Peter`s plans.


To any who is interested:

Then again I have much time to spent on other things.
Yesterday I charged a true 11.1V 1300mah (1500mah advertised) battery with the stock esky charger.
It got perfectly charged at 4.18V to all cells (that battery is good quality and always gets perfectly balanced anyway).

It got some time but my plan of using two chargers to charge two batteries at the same time has gone good.
After all esky Belt CP uses the same charger for 11.1V 1800mah... so I use it for only 1300mah... and so charging time is less than a Belt CP owner...

So, I spent only some little money to have two batteries charged at the afternoon. With no risk of overcharge, no risk of fire (stock is very reliable), and in case of failure it costs so cheap not to worry it got damaged (even it is reliable and it does not gets damaged).
And if I want Ican have a third charger for some little more money. And have three batteries charged, and I may do that to charge two 1300 and one 800mah battery at the same time.
Even if I get one more 800mah battery I can have all four batteries charged by four chargers. With less charging time than if Ihad only one "good" charger.
The cost is less than a iMax B6. An iMax B6 costs about $46 (without shipping), and three more esky chargers cost only $27...
But for now I do my job, or fun if you like, with only $8.9

Spiros

sgbfly

Hi Spiros,

I really don't think dropping to 7.4V is a great idea (but I could well be proved wrong!) The BOL is quite heavy and requires a fixed amount of power to lift. If you drop the voltage you have to increase the current. This will put more strain on the esc and battery. Are the 7.4v inexpensive batteries up to it? If anyone wants to experiment may I suggest 2600KV and 11T pinion gears and 11.1V. But really there is no need; 3000KV or 3100KV, 10T, 11.1V and boardless is simply awesome and very controllable.

It would be great if someone had one of these. Then we could feed accurate figures into the pinion gear calculations. However, I suggest the assumptions in my guide are OK because 10T works very well. I tried 9T, 10T and 11T on my BOL. I think its good to round up / overestimate any calculations for pinion gear # of teeth because the BOL is fixed pitch and we need some extra throttle for ascent performance.

I agree with you regarding the esky charger. I also have 2. I remember Dave Herbert (aka Nightflyyer) once commenting that he thought it was a good charger and if its good for him it will sure do for me!

I am uploading some vids. I thought I had talked enough about my bird and it was time to let you all see lol. Later........

Simon

aircrash

Hi Simon,

I believe you`re right. Not only cause you`ve made the calculations before I did but you`ve also tested.
In addition the ready converted brushless BOL are sold with 11T, so you`re right for the 10T that`s easier to control. If the beginners can fly them then a more controllable 10T configuration is sure a good one choice and the way to go.

But when and if I test my brushless BOL then I will try to make it upon my personal preference of flying. -&gt; Smooth as I`m not that good a pilot.
It`s also heavier, and I won`t use bigger blades, so it may needs the opposite than my preference (less teeth / less head speed) tells, more teeth at the end.
That`s why I fitted already the 11T and not the 10T to start with (I have more 11T anyway).
That`s only a consideration and my willing to test. I don`t know even if the motors will run OKon a 2S battery.

I have the battery already, it`s out of this heli. Which by the way I like its size. And that heli has a low head speed but big blades and very powerful motors (enough torque).
The esc I have are 30A capable, so no problem either.
The battery I`ll use has enough mAh so flying time won`t be a problem I guess. But I can install any battery size I want.
Then I should have better some 13T to test.
So no cost for that test. If it works it worked, else no problem.

PS. videos are always welcome !!!

Spiros

barak1001

On the subject of the gyro.

I fly a GR201 on my brushless Lama with Turnigy 6a ESC. Turnigy ESC are the same thing as the HobbyWing "Pentium" brand of ESC as well as the Volcano ESC.

I can turn on my chopper without the TX on, wait 30 seconds and then turn on the radio, and my gyro will initialize. If the gyro will initialize with the mixer removed from the loop, then it's not the gyro, it's the mixer that's the problem.

aircrash

Hi Tony,

It seems both the mixer and the gyro have problem.
I`ve tried more with the mixer today (too desperate that I keep trying), turned the pot to another point, the rudder does not work at all. Then to another point, one motor works. Then again to the "working" point, rudder works.
I may just replace the pot on that mixer and try. It`s a 10K&Omega;, I`ll go and buy one to try.

The gyro won`t get initialized even if I don`t use the mixer and plug one esc to CH3 and the gyro to CH4, and then to the gyro the other esc or even a known working spare servo I have.

But thanks for the input. Any help is appreciated.
I just mention all these to make clear the situation and to help you help me more, to save that poor BOL before it flies... by a kick. Ooops and goes...

I was just unlucky.

Spiros

barak1001

Do you have any sub trim set on your radio for the channel the gyro is on?

I can confirm for a fact that a GR201 works with an AR6100. It's possible though that your gyro is fried. I don't use a fancy mixer with my V4. It's just a cheap Turnigy v-tail mixer. So I've got no experience with the mixer you're using.

aircrash

No, set at the center.
Now that I`m thinking I don`t know if it should get initialized without the mixer. I mean when I don`t use the mixer and just plug it to CH4 and a servo to the gyro.
Maybe it needs some mixing out of the Tx (throttle to rudder), that a stock BOLTx don`t have, so to get initialized that way.

Does it/ should it initialize that way?

barak1001

It should initialize with just a servo hooked to it on whatever channel. What receiver are you using with it?

sgbfly

Hi Spiros, Peter and Everyone,

A short video of a working brushless &amp; boardless big lama. I was a little gentle with it in this video because it was its first outing after a complete rebuild (for the guide photos lol). I really really dont want it in bits again for a while. I also had a good fly with the Lama 400D blades and I really like them.

Anyway you can see for how well it works. I am really pleased with it.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIGITN0ZjcY[/youtube]

The video was shot with my key fob camera

Enjoy

Simon

aircrash

A stock 2.4ghz Big Lama Rx.
Well I had read in the past another one user had problems with an incompatibility of a gyro to a Rx. But I can`t recall what gyro (I think it was a Telebee) and what Rx.
But even if I tried to google it I didn`t found it again...

Thanks for the responce.

sgbfly

Hi Everyone,

You might remember I bought one of these altimeters for a bit of fun with my BOL.

Here is a little video test.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cr-tlhmZvjo[/youtube]

I have to say for what it cost it is very good. It works on air pressure so your absolute altitude may give a different reading depending on the baramoter. To get a reading from it you need to make a mental note of your absolute altitude reading when you start, put it in relative mode and zero it, then away you go. It will record your maximum absolute altitude since the reset so you need to subtract this from this what you made a mental note of. Its a little bit long winded to get a maximum figure but it works!

Simon

ps. absolute altiude is your location above sea level. relative altude is relative to the position you reset it.

aircrash

Hi Simon,

well, I just saw the video. That is really good, very nice. The video, the BOL, the flying, the whole package.
I like your BOL there.

Happy flying,

Spiros

sgbfly

Hi Everyone,

One more before I go to bed

Lama 400D blades &amp; what I think to them. I have flown several battery packs with them now and here is what I think:

They are the stiffest blade widely available that fit the BOL but for best results trim them to standard esky blades size and insert little shims with them into the blade grips. I make shims from old plastic containers with a leather belt punch and scissors! In summary:

Pros

very good quality and seem well balanced out the package
give responsive and sporty flight performance
You can fly fast and do some nice fast turns
you can make good progress into a gentle breeze
very stiff so little chance of blade strike
look great

cons

they don't fit right w/out shims and really need trimming down
vertical descents seems even more unstable
they are rubbish for on board video with too many vibrations- I even balanced a pair to 0.1mg at work and they were still poor.
Can be hard to track by twisting if one blade is a little out of plane.

Overall I love these blades

Re video

1st video Stiff lama 400D blades - The dreaded wavy lines

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYaiud1m1rE[/youtube]

2nd Video Flexible xtreme blades - much much better

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WmbHZ7d7heU[/youtube]

So its horses for courses. If you want good pics -xtreme. If you want to chase pigeons - Lama 400D. The standard Esky blades are somewhere in between but closer to the 400D blades!

goodnight &amp; until tomorrow

Simon