CARF F4U-1 Corsair build thread
03-05-2014, 05:44 AM
#2551
!As you say you can buy the various switches screws bezels gunsights etc which are great quality and I use them all the time, and they also sell the easy cut thick black or grey plastic sheets that they use to make the panels out of which I have used to make my own for a better fit in my Carf dash-4 conversion (forgive me for plugging it here but it shows all this stuff http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...l#post11036370 ). Also I am sure you are also aware of that wonderful material Chemiwood which is great for making for those custom cockpit parts. It may not always please the scale police at competition level but needs must,
Your aluminium panel sounds great and just the job (I am assuming it will have mood lighting for the instruments and gun sight, perhaps options for red/blue/orange .
!) Keep up the good work. cheers
Ed
03-05-2014, 07:43 AM
#2552
It was worth a try. It is a long time frame if you want anything custom made. I like the offerings from Iflytailies too (or various other names such as inspan propagtem aerocockpit kits in Czechoslovakia where these are made http://www.aerocockpit.com/accessories ). I know exactly what you mean about the DB instrument panel and wing intakes!
As you say you can buy the various switches screws bezels gunsights etc which are great quality and I use them all the time, and they also sell the easy cut thick black or grey plastic sheets that they use to make the panels out of which I have used to make my own for a better fit in my Carf dash-4 conversion (forgive me for plugging it here but it shows all this stuff http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...l#post11036370 ). Also I am sure you are also aware of that wonderful material Chemiwood which is great for making for those custom cockpit parts. It may not always please the scale police at competition level but needs must,
Your aluminium panel sounds great and just the job (I am assuming it will have mood lighting for the instruments and gun sight, perhaps options for red/blue/orange .!) Keep up the good work.
cheers
Ed
!As you say you can buy the various switches screws bezels gunsights etc which are great quality and I use them all the time, and they also sell the easy cut thick black or grey plastic sheets that they use to make the panels out of which I have used to make my own for a better fit in my Carf dash-4 conversion (forgive me for plugging it here but it shows all this stuff http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...l#post11036370 ). Also I am sure you are also aware of that wonderful material Chemiwood which is great for making for those custom cockpit parts. It may not always please the scale police at competition level but needs must,
Your aluminium panel sounds great and just the job (I am assuming it will have mood lighting for the instruments and gun sight, perhaps options for red/blue/orange .
!) Keep up the good work. cheers
Ed
Yes on the various materials for cockpit parts. I have always intended to put together a list of resources for interior parts. Time is my enemy. :-) Really pushing on a couple projects right now. Someday.
I have a fiber optic system that I intend to use someday for the map lights in WWII aircraft. None of the instruments were back lit. I even thought of maybe using it in some of the switches so they appear to glow as they did. Again, someday. :-)
03-05-2014, 07:51 AM
#2553
BTW, the aluminum panel is laser cut including the tiny holes for the instrument screws. The bezel are machined from aluminum. I'm going to include the panel, bezels, fuel selector, instrument sheet, and plastic for the lenses, and those tiny screws. Trying to include the turbo charger warning light as well.
It will be in kit form. All made in the USA by fellow modelers.
It will be in kit form. All made in the USA by fellow modelers.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-09-2014 at 12:19 PM.
03-09-2014, 11:45 AM
#2555
Next I install the bezels with thin CA. As you do all this, insure the largest hole for the artificial horizon gauge is on the left of center from the back. I made this mistake one time and once the bezels are glued it with CA, it is near impossible to change them.
03-09-2014, 11:56 AM
#2557
Now I can glue the instruments on the back of the clear plastic. I use RC 56 for this as well. After I have it in place, I put four dots of the glue on edge of the instrument, then I turn the panel over and check the alignment, make any adjustments, then, while holding it in place with an exacto knife, I spread the glue around all the edges with a tooth pick.
If you make a boo boo (I always screw at least one up), you can simply pull it off, clean the RC 56 off the lens with warm water, cut a fresh instrument (the sheet has two of everything for just this reason), and try it again.
If you make a boo boo (I always screw at least one up), you can simply pull it off, clean the RC 56 off the lens with warm water, cut a fresh instrument (the sheet has two of everything for just this reason), and try it again.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-09-2014 at 12:06 PM.
03-09-2014, 11:58 AM
#2558
Panel ready for more detail. I have used a cloth on the flat black of the areas around the instruments to weather it a little. Not all the dials are correct, but from the outside looking in, it will still look pretty good.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-09-2014 at 12:01 PM.
03-09-2014, 03:26 PM
#2559
Gear question Gary. I know there needs to be some massaging to make these fit, but the initial try in looks really bad. The gear doors aren't remotely going to close as is.
My questions:
Should I remove wood on the blocks to get the whole thing lower?
The rear scissor brace is hitting the frame of the gear, preventing the gear from going down, do I grind this? Why in the world would Sierra make it this way?
Should I shim the front part of the gear to angle the gear down into the well at the other end?
An air cylinder question. To get the gear doors at 90 degrees when open, when closed, I won't be to full travel of the cylinder, is that OK? I think as long as I put enough tabs to stop the gear doors from over closing, and/or they rest on the wheels…I should be ok?
Thanks
My questions:
Should I remove wood on the blocks to get the whole thing lower?
The rear scissor brace is hitting the frame of the gear, preventing the gear from going down, do I grind this? Why in the world would Sierra make it this way?
Should I shim the front part of the gear to angle the gear down into the well at the other end?
An air cylinder question. To get the gear doors at 90 degrees when open, when closed, I won't be to full travel of the cylinder, is that OK? I think as long as I put enough tabs to stop the gear doors from over closing, and/or they rest on the wheels…I should be ok?
Thanks
03-09-2014, 06:06 PM
#2560
I have added the screws and the warning light for the boost setting with it's label. The screws around the artificial horizon were slightly larger on the full scale, as I have done on this panel. Still need to add the "dropable tank" selector on the lower left side. That will do it for this one. The gun sight will cover the top of the panel.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-10-2014 at 05:04 PM.
03-09-2014, 06:13 PM
#2561
Gear question Gary. I know there needs to be some massaging to make these fit, but the initial try in looks really bad. The gear doors aren't remotely going to close as is.
My questions:
Should I remove wood on the blocks to get the whole thing lower?
The rear scissor brace is hitting the frame of the gear, preventing the gear from going down, do I grind this? Why in the world would Sierra make it this way?
Should I shim the front part of the gear to angle the gear down into the well at the other end?
An air cylinder question. To get the gear doors at 90 degrees when open, when closed, I won't be to full travel of the cylinder, is that OK? I think as long as I put enough tabs to stop the gear doors from over closing, and/or they rest on the wheels…I should be ok?
Thanks
My questions:
Should I remove wood on the blocks to get the whole thing lower?
The rear scissor brace is hitting the frame of the gear, preventing the gear from going down, do I grind this? Why in the world would Sierra make it this way?
Should I shim the front part of the gear to angle the gear down into the well at the other end?
An air cylinder question. To get the gear doors at 90 degrees when open, when closed, I won't be to full travel of the cylinder, is that OK? I think as long as I put enough tabs to stop the gear doors from over closing, and/or they rest on the wheels…I should be ok?
Thanks
03-09-2014, 06:19 PM
#2562
Once you have the gear closing all the way, you can proceed. This plane was not the ARF, as I believe yours is. So it may be slightly different. I will show you pictures of this one, and then another one we had to do more shaping on. First this one. Only a slight bit of grinding was necessary and only to the inboard front corner of the housing.
03-09-2014, 06:27 PM
#2563
Here is one that required more grinding. Also notice the shim under the front of this set. In some cases, you will need to shim under the front to lower the wheel in the bay. Either way, it is very tight in there. When everything is installed correctly, the doors will just shut before hitting the strut where the axle comes through.
03-09-2014, 06:30 PM
#2564
Back to the one in the shop that required no shims. Here is where the mounting blocks are in relation to the outer wing skin. If you go down too far, you go through the top of the wing. It is very tight all around. We usually shim the front up a little and grind the inboard housing a little. Removing wood and moving it all down does not work because it teeters on the spar. You can only go down so far on the blocks. Probably about where you are. You need to raise the front to lower the wheel in the bay.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 03-09-2014 at 06:36 PM.
03-09-2014, 06:42 PM
#2565
Here are some shots of our air cylinder install. Keep in mind that the outboard door is perpendicular to the ground, but the inboard door is not. The inboard door will liely not open as far, but that is scale. The travel on these cylinders is 1 3/8".
03-10-2014, 08:33 AM
#2570
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A note from someone who scratch builds, and I know I will be shunned for this, but when you say you are "heavy into a build', this is an ARF. You are assembling a plane,not building one. It's a shame that now days buying a pre built plane is considered building, and yes, I can send/show pictures of my B-25, D-18, and wingspan B-17, with full interiors, rivets, working doors, door handles, etc. Nothing personal about this plane, or the guys, it's just the state of the hobby anymore.
03-10-2014, 08:46 AM
#2572
A note from someone who scratch builds, and I know I will be shunned for this, but when you say you are "heavy into a build', this is an ARF. You are assembling a plane,not building one. It's a shame that now days buying a pre built plane is considered building, and yes, I can send/show pictures of my B-25, D-18, and wingspan B-17, with full interiors, rivets, working doors, door handles, etc. Nothing personal about this plane, or the guys, it's just the state of the hobby anymore.
As for the CARF, many of these have been bought and started by guys who thought they were getting the typical ARF, only to find out otherwise and many of these have wound up on the used plane market, usually in various stages of being screwed up. until you build one, you won't understand.
03-10-2014, 08:51 AM
#2573
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In my opinion, anyone who takes a ARF or a block of wood and modifies it to the point of making it as scale as possible is a builder.
This applies to Foam and Wood as there are many out there that take the basic foam ARF and tear it apart and make it new again or those that make planes from paper. I consider them a builder.
Just my opinion.
One other opinion I have is that if you get into a thread started by someone else you should consider it a privilege to post and if you can't say something nice you should not post!
Just my opinions.
Semper Fi
Keith
This applies to Foam and Wood as there are many out there that take the basic foam ARF and tear it apart and make it new again or those that make planes from paper. I consider them a builder.
Just my opinion.
One other opinion I have is that if you get into a thread started by someone else you should consider it a privilege to post and if you can't say something nice you should not post!
Just my opinions.
Semper Fi
Keith
A note from someone who scratch builds, and I know I will be shunned for this, but when you say you are "heavy into a build', this is an ARF. You are assembling a plane,not building one. It's a shame that now days buying a pre built plane is considered building, and yes, I can send/show pictures of my B-25, D-18, and wingspan B-17, with full interiors, rivets, working doors, door handles, etc. Nothing personal about this plane, or the guys, it's just the state of the hobby anymore.
03-10-2014, 09:21 AM
#2574
In my opinion, anyone who takes a ARF or a block of wood and modifies it to the point of making it as scale as possible is a builder.
This applies to Foam and Wood as there are many out there that take the basic foam ARF and tear it apart and make it new again or those that make planes from paper. I consider them a builder.
Just my opinion.
One other opinion I have is that if you get into a thread started by someone else you should consider it a privilege to post and if you can't say something nice you should not post!
Just my opinions.
Semper Fi
Keith
This applies to Foam and Wood as there are many out there that take the basic foam ARF and tear it apart and make it new again or those that make planes from paper. I consider them a builder.
Just my opinion.
One other opinion I have is that if you get into a thread started by someone else you should consider it a privilege to post and if you can't say something nice you should not post!
Just my opinions.
Semper Fi
Keith
03-10-2014, 09:24 AM
#2575
OK Gary, no luck. The clamps were exactly where you showed. I experimented moving them up and down a smudge and it had a dramatic effect…i.e. it wouldn't cycle unless it was within a 1/16th of where you showed. I shaved the scissor bracket a little where it was hitting the frame, may have helped a hair. Can you tell me if the strut should be closer to the mount than you see here? I also took a pic with the front part 3mm off the wood rail, still wouldn't be close to being in the well. I am either missing something, or the gear is screwed up.
I don't know if I need to send it back to sierra??? There is no way the gear is remotely getting under those gear doors the way it is now.
I don't know if I need to send it back to sierra??? There is no way the gear is remotely getting under those gear doors the way it is now.