rikybob

Hi Simon!

I have several observations:

In the begining of a couple of your videos there is a maniac in a ball cap. Call the police!

I think those are MY chickens![:@]

That CANNOT be England, it's usually sunny there!

What a great set of videos Simon, lovely bird, great yard and who knew that you still had trees that big in the "Jolly old England"[X(]


Thanx for sharing!

R/B

EDIT: PS I just bought some Xtreme blades due to you........wayyyyy better video......thanx again!
PSS I just read your Brushless/Boardless manual and its great.......if I hadn't taken the RC711 short cut.........

Ddaddy

Hi Simon,

Awesome as usual! You really help me with the time you spend tweaking and sharing. A couple questions, what do you use for battery voltage monitoring during flight and do you use a differnt horn (4 hole)?

Thanks,
Ken</p>

pgroom_68

Hey again Ken,

I don't know what Simon is running - but I use [link=http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280448141138&ssPageNam e=STRK:MEWAX:IT]THESE[/link] lipo alarms - this link is selling 5 of the things - wouldn't fly without one now....[sm=wink_smile.gif]

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. As far as I know he uses the original servo horns - when he awakes he will correct me if I'm wrong

sgbfly

Hi RB,

Loving the banter . &amp; no they can't be your chickens these are good layers

Thanks also for your kind comments

Hi Spiros,

appreciated - thanks!

I think I have a 100% throttle ascent recorded somewhere. I will try and find it.

Hi Ken,

Thanks also!

Battery voltage: I know roughly what each battery will give me. I then set a kitchen timer for 1 minute less and clip this to my remote. That is the bleeping you can sometimes hear near the end of my brushless flight video.

Peter's suggestion . Is a much better idea but I sometimes use the balance port on my lipo for LED Nav lights so I got used to setting a timer. Still I think I will get some of those alarms.

Servo horns: I ordered these &amp; drilled the 4th hole to 1.5mm. I cut off the 5th hole with snips because it was a bit tight in the canopy. You can use the 5th hole - it makes the BOL really responsive, but for me the 4th hole was a good compromise between responsiveness and smoothness. Also make sure your swashplate can cope with the extra travel else you may damage your servos. That's another reason why I settled for the 4th hole. I only altered the forward cyclic servo.

Simon

erdnuckel2

just a late update to my saying I will ask if the 400D flybar fits ... that one DOESN'T fit either - this time the center ball (which is too small with the 53# ..) is to large ... blessed be compatibility ...

Sven

sgbfly

Hi Everyone,

My Brushless &amp; Boardless Guide has been updated to version 2. Click here It has also been moved to near the top of p100 for easy future reference.

<div>Change Log for v2 released 25/01/2010</div><div>P7 &ndash; eBay BL kit found and linked &ndash; might be worth cannibalizing for parts</div><div>P8 &ndash; gyro table revised &amp; Align RCE-550 added (thanks Sven)</div><div>P12 pt 7 &ndash; dimensions corrected (thanks Peter)</div><div>Several minor corrections/additions/links added (thanks Stefan, Spiros &amp; Peter)

Simon
</div>

legrill83

Hello, I replaced the 3in1 on my BOL.  Now it seems there is not enough power going to the bottom blades.  When I switch where I plug the motors into the 3in1, the bottom blades have power but not the top.  The battery was fully charged and both sets of blades spin, just doesn't seem to be enough power to get off ground.  Is it safe to assume 3in1 is faulty? Or possibly another problem?

Thanks
-Larry

aircrash

Hi Larry,

Make sure the rotors spin to the right side (each one) and then check the proportional adjustment on the new 3in1.
Unplug the battery and set the proportional to the middle, or even to the other side than it is now.
Then test with a fresh charged battery.

Spiros

sgbfly

Hi Larry,

I have edited this because I had not read you post properly lol. Just out of interest how is your rudder trim set.

Simon

barak1001

Btw, there is a flybar that fits a BOL, already tested and confirmed it works. Just a matter of getting my store setup so I can sell them to all of you at 1000 times my cost.

rikybob

(Pretending to the be the "fanboy" who buys the very same overpriced stuff that fuels our little hobby)



Larry,

Hurry up and get your store up and runnin'! I'll buy 10!


Rikybob

legrill83

Thanks for the info guys [8D]</p>

rikybob

Collective:

I'm all happy.......phrekin' windy day here in sunny Florida and my new fuse came in along with the [link=http://www.heliguy.com/Forum/extreme-lipo-alarm-and-navigation-lights-t27428.html]Xtreme light kit w/ low batt. alarm [/link](special thanx to Peter for noticing this little gem and pointing me in the right direction!). Now I want to do the install on my "Black Tie Fuselage" for when I want to "style and profile" and generally wow my neighborhood crowd (yah, I know).

Any tips on doing the install? I have a vague rememberance of "drilling holes with a drill bit by hand"?

Yours fraternally,

R/B

aircrash

Hi Rikybob,

That led kit looks nice as it has an adjustable low voltage triggering. That`s what I`d like (and if it had a beeper too then would be more better).
I think esc protection is not good enough as it has a 9.3V low voltage protection, but that might not be good enough as one cell may go well under 3.0V in that way (it does not monitor every cell but the total voltage).
I could use a timer though, but I`d like more an adjustable alarm.

Wait a minute!
I just found it has a beeper too, wow, I should have bought one even if it`s a bit expensive. It would be useful IF I manage to make use of the brushless modded BOL.
Else the stock BOL has low voltage protection.

PS. where did you buy it from?

Spiros

aircrash

Hmmm, but I found it does not monitor every one cell, but the total 3cell voltage. That`s bad.
By the time I had liked it I found its weak point.
(had to find an excuse I didn`t bought it )

But if it is set to alarm at 10.6V then it does the job (anyway under 10.6V you have no power, so it`s a good point to set it)


EDIT: addition

You could use one Li-Po voltage meter, such as this one.
So to see the actual voltage per cell and the total and fine tune the setting of the alarm. Set it to about 10.7V -or even 11V so to make the landing- as the battery has no load when you measure, but when flying it goes under that point.
You can use that meter so to see if a battery is balanced, charged and useful when you store a battery (should be stored at about 3.9V).
Use a resistor to discharge the cells individually if you don`t want to fly a bit (as it is better when you store them to discharge them slowly). An 27&Omega; 2W resistor is good for that job (be careful not to short circuit the legs of the resistor)

aircrash

I think it`s better to heat up a nail (hold it by pliers) and make the holes you like. As this thin plastic is too fragile and a drill bit may start a cut and/or make rough edges that will make a weak point so a cut will start afterwards.

Ddaddy

Hi Peter,<div></div><div>Thanks for the info. I have that alarm but find it's not loud enough for me with noises outside, heli several hundred feet away and heli noise. Just looked at it...I'll cut the plastic shrink from over the buzzer...maybe that will be enough.</div><div></div><div>Ken

edit...yep, that improved it some.</div>

kiwigeoff

Rikybob,

I used the end of my soldering iron to melt the correct size holes for LEDs in the plastic. Practice on some other plastic so you know how far to go in for the diameter you want.

Geoff

rikybob

Hi again Spiros, Ddaddy,

I think the company was KR's Hobbies state side......the light kit was 20bux US shipped. I ended up taking a tapered dremel grinding tool similar in diameter to the lights and easily/quickly/accuratly ground a holes in the little bugger! It worked perfectly! I superglued the lights in place and it worked well! I had to "fish" mono line thru the tail to get the light in there. I was too lazy to put it in the tip of the rudder like Simon did but non-the less a good job. Now all I have to do is evaluate if I am goind to just tape all the lines in place with the alarm taped where I can find a spot or elongate some of the lines (read: cut, solder, heatshrink). I will see what my ambition level is tomorrow.


Nite all!

R/B

pgroom_68

Hey and thanks Sven,

Bit of a disappointment[&o]. Perhaps I should order the 400D flybar and file the center ball? What do you think??

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. Do you know if the weight of the whole assembly of a 400D flybar is about 23g?? That is what I am aiming for. The adjustable flybar which I handmade before has a total weight of nearly 19g - and this is a little light for the maximum stability needed by newbies!

pgroom_68

Hey again Tony,

This mystery flybar - what is its total weight? PLEASE

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

barak1001

When I get ready to sell them, I'll send you a sample to test fly. Until then I can't release any info.

Should be getting in some extended shafts with CNC upper hubs for you to try out some time in the next month.

Just be patient.

erdnuckel2

Hi Peter,

if you are looking for 23g, why are you not just adding one more weight on each side of yours ... shouldn't that do the trick? (I think this is how you did the flybar, right? Putiing two of the weight that you b ought at helitek on each side instead of one ...?
Otherwise, how heavy is you flybar without the weights? I have some spare weights that are exactly 8.80g each on my scale ... 17.6g total ... so the remainder of your selfmade flybar can weigh 5.4g ... if it does, you get exactly what you want ...

Sven

sgbfly

Hi Peter,

How is the conversion going?

Simon

rikybob

Ratz!

Did a beautiful install on my lights! "Fished" the tail light into its hole perfectly with mono line......tested same.....found I needed to cut and lengthen line.......got the ole "smoldering gun" out and commenced to "smoldering" (got my skills back on that one pretty quick), plugged the little devil in but nuttin' DANG!

Rechecked all new connections.........nuttin'! Can you actually kill a diode? Oh well, all the other lights run.


Happy flyin'!

R/B