Welcome to Club SAITO !
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
The 1.00 is back together with new bearings and gaskets. It has really good compression, The LS needle was 1.5 turns rich of optimum. In the picture its turning about 5,500, rich enough to smoke.
Saito 1.00 plain
Fuel==WildCat 15% with 18% syn/castor blend
Plug==Fox Miracle
Prop==Graupner 14x7
Exhaust==stock
Max peaked rpm===9,000 plus a few
Idle ==1,950
Valve lash==per stock Saito feeler gauge.
Saito 1.00 plain
Fuel==WildCat 15% with 18% syn/castor blend
Plug==Fox Miracle
Prop==Graupner 14x7
Exhaust==stock
Max peaked rpm===9,000 plus a few
Idle ==1,950
Valve lash==per stock Saito feeler gauge.
Dave thats a nice result,good feeling when a plan comes together.I've just looked at my crystal ball and saw a turboheader and comparison figures in your future.Nice photo's,is that a selection of chicken sticks for the old high compression 150 i see on your bench?
Hi Dave! I just placed a Saito parts order with Advantage Hobby. The parts were slightly cheaper than Horizon and the shipping was $4.99 instead of $8.99. I was immediately sold.....
Senior Member
Advantage also has free shipping for orders $50 & more while Horizon's minimum is $100.
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
I'll address everybody oin order, Bob the new gaskets came from WholeSale Trains/Lantz's Hobby Shop today, I'll head a set your way tomorrow if possible.
Thanks Pete, it is a good result, the TH is actually laying right beside the 1.00. That re-bar would make a great chicken stick. By the looks of the bent one I already tried it.
Yeah Ernie, we're going to have to find alternatives to HH, they seem to have become slackers now a days.
Dan, I used you rubber band method holding the crank at TDC, worked like a charm, I make shifted a cam holder from a small Phillips Head screw driver and a section of heat shrink..
Thanks Pete, it is a good result, the TH is actually laying right beside the 1.00. That re-bar would make a great chicken stick. By the looks of the bent one I already tried it.
Yeah Ernie, we're going to have to find alternatives to HH, they seem to have become slackers now a days.
Dan, I used you rubber band method holding the crank at TDC, worked like a charm, I make shifted a cam holder from a small Phillips Head screw driver and a section of heat shrink..
Senior Member
My small block cam holder is similar to yours except I used an allen key W/shrink tube.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 02-21-2014 at 04:02 PM.
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Cairns, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The cam holder thing. In the little red book on Saito engines put out by the old RCM magazine there is a neat set of diagrams for a tool to do this. Which it does very well. I have made and "lost" a number of these over the years and once the new workshop is set I will make a couple more putting one in the box of tools I allow people to borrow,
On the workshop front, we get access to the new property and once a couple of mods to the house are completed (like removing a combustion stove) I will be able to start the construction of the new "retreat". Thank heaven
On the workshop front, we get access to the new property and once a couple of mods to the house are completed (like removing a combustion stove) I will be able to start the construction of the new "retreat". Thank heaven
Senior Member
The cam holder thing. In the little red book on Saito engines put out by the old RCM magazine there is a neat set of diagrams for a tool to do this. Which it does very well. I have made and "lost" a number of these over the years and once the new workshop is set I will make a couple more putting one in the box of tools I allow people to borrow,
On the workshop front, we get access to the new property and once a couple of mods to the house are completed (like removing a combustion stove) I will be able to start the construction of the new "retreat". Thank heaven
On the workshop front, we get access to the new property and once a couple of mods to the house are completed (like removing a combustion stove) I will be able to start the construction of the new "retreat". Thank heaven
I have the "reprint" of that book. It's just copied out on copy paper now days. I got it a couple of years ago. Lots of good infromation like valve spring height, etc..
My Feedback: (3)
It takes 2 different tools. One for the FA50 based valve train & another for the FA120S based big block valve train.
I have the "reprint" of that book. It's just copied out on copy paper now days. I got it a couple of years ago. Lots of good infromation like valve spring height, etc..
I have the "reprint" of that book. It's just copied out on copy paper now days. I got it a couple of years ago. Lots of good infromation like valve spring height, etc..
You would think it is available electronically <hint hint>
Senior Member
Hey, we're talking RCM Modeler here. I was luckey to get what I got from what I here. They were always real nice to me & even sent me plans for a 48" 3 channel glider free of charge when I told them it was for my grand daughter. Seems lately they are MIA.
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Kerrville,
TX
Posts: 2,127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
CR
BLW, a friend ordered 2 alum. backplates and gave me one. I think he got it from Horizon. They should come with the gasket and with new screws for the carb mount, but..... no. Can anyone tell me what the symptoms are when a Saito carb begins to need a new set of o-rings / rebuild? My 82 has been around probably 10 years now but does not have real high hours on it or anything. Still seems to run good but just wondering what to expect with the carb. (I do replace the intake manifold o-ring occasionally) Also what things are hard on the carb and o-rings? For example oiling the engine up real good with regular oil and it runs down into the carb. Doesn't regular oil tend to swell the o-rings up? Thanks guys.
You'll get all sorts of answers on what brand of aro to use,or even not to bother.I use automatic transmission fluid.
Had a hard to consistently tune 82 once.Turned out it was the tiny little o ring in the main needle tube,it's a so and so to get out,or in at first,good thing i had plenty of spares.Finally made a special tool for it.There's two o rings on that inlet tube
Jumped on the duke first thing this morning and with a few mates headed up into the hills east of here for lunch at the noble falls tavern..best steaks in the west.We all came back down dodging lycra bandits and wayward motorists..ahh life can be good.
Had a hard to consistently tune 82 once.Turned out it was the tiny little o ring in the main needle tube,it's a so and so to get out,or in at first,good thing i had plenty of spares.Finally made a special tool for it.There's two o rings on that inlet tube
Jumped on the duke first thing this morning and with a few mates headed up into the hills east of here for lunch at the noble falls tavern..best steaks in the west.We all came back down dodging lycra bandits and wayward motorists..ahh life can be good.
Last edited by Rudolph Hart; 02-23-2014 at 12:41 AM. Reason: more bs
Hi Old Fart.
I have been to Perth maybe 1/2 dozen times while on deployment on several US navy ships. Perth was one pf my 2 most favorite places get some R&R, The other being Haifa Israel. Found it hard to spend my own money both places. Folks just as friendly as could be. Being married had to be extra careful because .... Well you can infer the why.
Not a blessed thing to do with Saitos. Just wanted to say Hi and thank one of the good folk from there for the great times I had. Dang sure wish I could afford to return to both places.
God bless ya
Ken
I have been to Perth maybe 1/2 dozen times while on deployment on several US navy ships. Perth was one pf my 2 most favorite places get some R&R, The other being Haifa Israel. Found it hard to spend my own money both places. Folks just as friendly as could be. Being married had to be extra careful because .... Well you can infer the why.
Not a blessed thing to do with Saitos. Just wanted to say Hi and thank one of the good folk from there for the great times I had. Dang sure wish I could afford to return to both places.
God bless ya
Ken
Last edited by flyingagin; 02-23-2014 at 03:58 AM. Reason: crap spelling and English.
My Feedback: (3)
Thanks, Ernie. Those have been out of stock for years now at HH. Yep, you just get the backplate rather than an upgrade kit. I ordered all the same extras you did. Big thanks to W8YE for the advice on the screws.
Leaking o rings mean lean runs. The old style plastic backplate meant intermittent leaning out shortly after you thought you had things fixed and set right. The 82 is supposed to be a sweetheart engine.
I stopped worrying about using the viton o rings a while back when I needed one and had to use a hardware store one. Never had any problems to date.
Leaking o rings mean lean runs. The old style plastic backplate meant intermittent leaning out shortly after you thought you had things fixed and set right. The 82 is supposed to be a sweetheart engine.
I stopped worrying about using the viton o rings a while back when I needed one and had to use a hardware store one. Never had any problems to date.
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Cairns, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As I think I have said before when you are looking for "o" rings if you can't get them in the water sprinkler section of your hardware store try the local small engine repair place or my prefered option the local a/c parts provider. Aviall is my preferred shop with lots of Parker "o" rings and if you are nice they might even give you a guage to size them
Whoever said the aluminum backplates are no big deal, just a backplate. Yes, I sure do agree with that but they are nicely machined and lovely, and there should be less vibration going up to the intake manifold o-ring. I use ATF for ARO oil also (mixed with air tool oil) but I think it still swells up silicone o-rings. How many types of material are used in o-rings? Are there silicon based and non-silicone based, that ARO would not affect? Is the swelling up a big deal really? I noticed when I got ARO into a couple of carbs that the main needle got really hard to turn for a while but then went back to normal with use and running.
Senior Member
Whoever said the aluminum backplates are no big deal, just a backplate. Yes, I sure do agree with that but they are nicely machined and lovely, and there should be less vibration going up to the intake manifold o-ring. I use ATF for ARO oil also (mixed with air tool oil) but I think it still swells up silicone o-rings. How many types of material are used in o-rings? Are there silicon based and non-silicone based, that ARO would not affect? Is the swelling up a big deal really? I noticed when I got ARO into a couple of carbs that the main needle got really hard to turn for a while but then went back to normal with use and running.
I never heard of silicone based "O" rings. Neoprene & viton, but not silicone.
Senior Member
Pete
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hello all I have a few questions for this group both are about props, I have a FA-91 going on the front of a Ultra Sport 60 what prop do I need to run for it the book says a 11x11 for the .91 4 stroke but isnt that too small for th3 .91 and if so what prop should I run, also I have a RCFW F6F-5 Hellcat and am planning on running a Saito 125 on it but what three blade prop will i need to spin I was looking at a 16x10 or the 16x8. and last one of the squadron mates is building a TF GE P-51 what is the biggest 4 blade prop can he spin on the 125.