Welcome to Club SAITO !
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I have a 1991 C&H unit without synchro, it has a clip for a Maloney spark plug. The clip would have to be changed to use it on the 1/4" plug. I have a separate module for it for synchro, in fact I have two of the modules, one has three leads on it. So Dan, my unit and your trigger assembly are from the same year. That ring is sort of, "stretchy" or I'd never have gotten it on there. It will never move by itself.
Pete, my DynaTron spins some engines faster than they normally idle using a 310 amp battery. That steam traction engine probably weighed 25 tons. I've seen a 120 hp Case several times over the years.
I never bought one of the compression gauges when they were available.
Pete, my DynaTron spins some engines faster than they normally idle using a 310 amp battery. That steam traction engine probably weighed 25 tons. I've seen a 120 hp Case several times over the years.
I never bought one of the compression gauges when they were available.
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Keeping a propeller tight W/right hand threads on the prop shaft? Aye, there's the rub!
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Originally Posted by [email protected]
I'll put this one out there. Are the gas saitos as good as the glow engines they produce ?
They are basically the same engines aside from the gas carburetors & CDI.
On the big block multi-cylinder engines, (FG-57T& FG-84R3) they put FA-180 bore cylinders W/he smaller FA-150 valves to allow more TQ at the lower power output RPM of gasoline compared to methanol.
Connecting rods, are the same part # on both the gas & glow engines.
I have my doubts that the gas engines will last as long as their glow counterparts.
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Join Date: Sep 2004
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So the longevity could be increased by checking the wearing parts at the end of each season.
(The connecting rod would be the chief item to watch)
I've been running my FG11 on the ground in prep for it's maiden flight this coming Tuesday, and I've noticed that (when doing the spit test) the exhaust rocker box sizzles and the intake rocker box doesn't.
I haven't gotten an IR temp gun yet so I'm not sure if that's good or bad, but that's slightly rich.
I guess when I do get it, the best place to point will be just in front of the spark plug.
BTW, I had trouble with the plug socket slowly slipping off of the RCEXCEL plug I got and as a temporary solution, I used a small automotive hose clamp at the bottom where the clip slits are located and it has been working very well.
Even after I change out the socket, I may keep the clamp in the flight box for emergencies.
But just as a follow up to the tree damage posts, The engine is running as smoothly as before.
Nick
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With the intense heat, I tend to agree, but the engines are much easier to rebuild than some of the others. (to me anyway)
So the longevity could be increased by checking the wearing parts at the end of each season.
(The connecting rod would be the chief item to watch)
I've been running my FG11 on the ground in prep for it's maiden flight this coming Tuesday, and I've noticed that (when doing the spit test) the exhaust rocker box sizzles and the intake rocker box doesn't.
I haven't gotten an IR temp gun yet so I'm not sure if that's good or bad, but that's slightly rich.
I guess when I do get it, the best place to point will be just in front of the spark plug.
BTW, I had trouble with the plug socket slowly slipping off of the RCEXCEL plug I got and as a temporary solution, I used a small automotive hose clamp at the bottom where the clip slits are located and it has been working very well.
Even after I change out the socket, I may keep the clamp in the flight box for emergencies.
But just as a follow up to the tree damage posts, The engine is running as smoothly as before.
Nick
So the longevity could be increased by checking the wearing parts at the end of each season.
(The connecting rod would be the chief item to watch)
I've been running my FG11 on the ground in prep for it's maiden flight this coming Tuesday, and I've noticed that (when doing the spit test) the exhaust rocker box sizzles and the intake rocker box doesn't.
I haven't gotten an IR temp gun yet so I'm not sure if that's good or bad, but that's slightly rich.
I guess when I do get it, the best place to point will be just in front of the spark plug.
BTW, I had trouble with the plug socket slowly slipping off of the RCEXCEL plug I got and as a temporary solution, I used a small automotive hose clamp at the bottom where the clip slits are located and it has been working very well.
Even after I change out the socket, I may keep the clamp in the flight box for emergencies.
But just as a follow up to the tree damage posts, The engine is running as smoothly as before.
Nick
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I was sure everyone was biting their tongue to keep from remarking on the shade tree solutions.
Nick
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For those interested, most of the full size aviations parts and accessories houses such as Aviall have those timing wheels. I think Aircraft and Spruce also have them.
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Whats the final word on the 1.00 ? I heard recently some concerns over vibrations? but again someone said he had eliminated this with a light prop or something? I ask because I am expecting one from my buddy Bruce at brucercengines.com soon , we did some horse tradin.
Good news jeffie now look forward to some tuning advice son.. saito's don't vibrate half as much as two strokes for the most part so get your tuning ears on buddy.Hobbsy is at this very moment running his newly rebearinged 1.00 and testing a couple of props so this should give you a good indication of what you can expect out of your engine.
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Jeffie- a vibrating Saito is a sure sign of being too rich, or of problems that need fixing like bearings or unbalanced props. If the engine you are getting has been broken in with a few gallons of fuel under its belt then you should look for a silky smooth engine that is probably the best running engine in your inventory. Whether the best solutions or not, you will probably find that the majority of Saito owners use APC props. You can expect idle speeds in the 2100 rpm range all day long with a little nitro. You engine could probably idle lower if you wanted it to. I have a 72 that did well idling at 1900 rpm. Saitos like nitro, but run well on as little as 5% (or none). 10% or 15% is considered the norm.
There is a lot of wisdom in Old Fart's first words there- get ready for a lesson in Saito tuning. Tuning is everything on a Saito. That means low speed needle valve tuning.
There is a lot of wisdom in Old Fart's first words there- get ready for a lesson in Saito tuning. Tuning is everything on a Saito. That means low speed needle valve tuning.
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Okay, we've waited an appropriate period for that story. The natives are getting restless to hear more........
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Lets see, the 1.00 will make my 1,2,3,,, 5th Saito now. Cool.
I cant use APC props, personal reasons.
None of my other Saitos seem to have any unique vibration issues on any of the props I use. My most common fuel for my Saitos is SIG SynPlus 15%, now out of production but luckily I have a few gallons stashed. I am not a big fan of uber low oil content fuels, just my personal preference. I recently picked up some(like 6 gallons LOL) 15% Heli synthetic with 23% oil I will have to try that this summer. I will have to try the 1.00 on the front of my Great Planes Escapde 60, but it will have to wait its turn, I have several others in line already.
I cant use APC props, personal reasons.
None of my other Saitos seem to have any unique vibration issues on any of the props I use. My most common fuel for my Saitos is SIG SynPlus 15%, now out of production but luckily I have a few gallons stashed. I am not a big fan of uber low oil content fuels, just my personal preference. I recently picked up some(like 6 gallons LOL) 15% Heli synthetic with 23% oil I will have to try that this summer. I will have to try the 1.00 on the front of my Great Planes Escapde 60, but it will have to wait its turn, I have several others in line already.
Lets see, the 1.00 will make my 1,2,3,,, 5th Saito now. Cool.
I cant use APC props, personal reasons.
None of my other Saitos seem to have any unique vibration issues on any of the props I use. My most common fuel for my Saitos is SIG SynPlus 15%, now out of production but luckily I have a few gallons stashed. I am not a big fan of uber low oil content fuels, just my personal preference. I recently picked up some(like 6 gallons LOL) 15% Heli synthetic with 23% oil I will have to try that this summer. I will have to try the 1.00 on the front of my Great Planes Escapde 60, but it will have to wait its turn, I have several others in line already.
I cant use APC props, personal reasons.
None of my other Saitos seem to have any unique vibration issues on any of the props I use. My most common fuel for my Saitos is SIG SynPlus 15%, now out of production but luckily I have a few gallons stashed. I am not a big fan of uber low oil content fuels, just my personal preference. I recently picked up some(like 6 gallons LOL) 15% Heli synthetic with 23% oil I will have to try that this summer. I will have to try the 1.00 on the front of my Great Planes Escapde 60, but it will have to wait its turn, I have several others in line already.
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Heavy prop, say a 14x8 MA. I think its called a Classic, it has almost square tips.
And it will be sharp enough to shave with right out of that package.
A lot of guys don't like a MA, but its a great prop on the 1.00.
A heavy prop smooths out the pulses at idle and lets you screw the idle down a bit.
It will run great on 10% fuel. 18 to 20% lube is good.
As long as you get oil out that bypass tube, its all good.
But that low speed needle is very important. They aint bull****tin' ya there.
oh by the way....I wouldn't part with my 1.00
And it will be sharp enough to shave with right out of that package.
A lot of guys don't like a MA, but its a great prop on the 1.00.
A heavy prop smooths out the pulses at idle and lets you screw the idle down a bit.
It will run great on 10% fuel. 18 to 20% lube is good.
As long as you get oil out that bypass tube, its all good.
But that low speed needle is very important. They aint bull****tin' ya there.
oh by the way....I wouldn't part with my 1.00
Last edited by charlie1960; 05-26-2014 at 01:36 PM.
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Since you asked. The Saito 50 and the crane. Place Cheras, site of the Malaysian Commonwealth Games. We had been using a site construction crane as one pylon in a day a racing and I decided to test my cub. SIG version modified with flaps and other stuff, cut the corner wings vertical but cut to short the resulting "tinkling sound" cost me SIN$85 (NTC hobby shop) for new bits. The flying through the house. It was a new one being built (on the same site but to one side) for te local district commissioner of police. It was waiting for the windows and doors to be installed and one of the expat MH pilots (who know all about flying models) got disorientated when the model was coming towards us got it turned around and inverted and managed to fit it in and out of the windows of the house. We left that site soon after because the workers on the site got sick of us landing and take models off on the corrogated roof of their dongas. It was a good place while it lasted
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I actually work as the service department in the local hobby store, I do a lot of carb tuning. Mostly RC cars/trucks.
Master Airscrew is my go to brand for props I think I currently have a 12X5(cant remember the series) on my Saito 50 in my Stearman, and lately JXF is looking good but I have yet to fly any. Taipan are out of production or at least not available here. I prefer something with a wide blade to utilize the 4 strokes torque and really grab some air. Here, had to share. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYIHNzYBFyo
Master Airscrew is my go to brand for props I think I currently have a 12X5(cant remember the series) on my Saito 50 in my Stearman, and lately JXF is looking good but I have yet to fly any. Taipan are out of production or at least not available here. I prefer something with a wide blade to utilize the 4 strokes torque and really grab some air. Here, had to share. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYIHNzYBFyo
Last edited by jeffie8696; 05-26-2014 at 05:39 PM.