MOKI RADIAL Care and Maintenence
11-02-2013, 06:32 PM
#2651
I adjust the pitch on the Solo Prop for 3600 to 3800 RPM on the ground, regardless of what the dial says. It unloads, in the air, more than the average prop, due to it's straight blades. This will give you a safe margin in the air. No need to go to another prop.
11-02-2013, 06:35 PM
#2652
It is plug and play as a replacement for the original unit.
I have (2) original "top hat" units for sale if anyone is interested. One is new and never flown, the second has light use on it. PM me if interested.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 11-02-2013 at 06:39 PM.
11-21-2013, 03:56 PM
#2653
I just bought a brand new Moki 180. Got it running on a test stand at the moment. Running on synthetic 40:1 mix with regular gas. It cranks up after flipping it about 10 times. Seems to run fairly smooth. I have adjusted the low needle to lean it up some. Out of the box it was at 1 1/4 turn. High was at 1 1/2 turn. The high needle is still at 1 1/2. Low I have had do lean to about 3/4 turn out from closed. It will idle fairly well at this point. My issue is I dont think the #3 cylinder (7 oclock position standing in front of the motor) is firing properly or at all. Based on tempurature all the other cylinders are at about 200 deg F the #3 will be at 90 deg for a little while until the motor has ran for about 10 mins then it will get up to about 160 or so. but never up to 200. Any suggestions on how to get the #3 to fire and up to temp same as the other?
11-21-2013, 10:44 PM
#2654
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You've probably got either a bad spark plug, or most likely a bad connection at that sparkplug. Try to interchange that plug with one of the others. If problem still occurs, you probably need a new connector, or a complete new ignition unit. Make sure that the center connector is OK. Compare to one of the other cables. Good luck. I miss my Moki 150...it was awesome. Ran for five seasons without any trouble.
11-22-2013, 08:19 PM
#2656
My Feedback: (2)
Georgia Flyer,
To this day, the #3 on my 250 is slow to come up to temp. That's the nature of the beast. The lower cylinder seems to get a fatter oil mix.
Rotating the engine on the stand is a good idea. Several other things to try. I use Sthil Ultra at no more than 45 or 50/1. Make certain the carb needles are adjusted for optimum engine performance - especially the low needle. While the engine is being run in, try to keep a fresh plug in #3. A gallon or 2 on the bench with the engine rotated so #3 points upward, the rings will seat faster in #3 and may help bring #3 up to temp when you return the engine to it's normal position. Make certain the #3 exhaust valve lash gap is adjusted to .003" Get the fuel pump if you don't already have it.
Something to be cautious about - too much oil or the wrong oil in the mix will stick or gum up a valve.
Prop the motor so as not to over-rev it.
Jaketab
To this day, the #3 on my 250 is slow to come up to temp. That's the nature of the beast. The lower cylinder seems to get a fatter oil mix.
Rotating the engine on the stand is a good idea. Several other things to try. I use Sthil Ultra at no more than 45 or 50/1. Make certain the carb needles are adjusted for optimum engine performance - especially the low needle. While the engine is being run in, try to keep a fresh plug in #3. A gallon or 2 on the bench with the engine rotated so #3 points upward, the rings will seat faster in #3 and may help bring #3 up to temp when you return the engine to it's normal position. Make certain the #3 exhaust valve lash gap is adjusted to .003" Get the fuel pump if you don't already have it.
Something to be cautious about - too much oil or the wrong oil in the mix will stick or gum up a valve.
Prop the motor so as not to over-rev it.
Jaketab
11-24-2013, 10:03 AM
#2657
The break-in procedure so often described by many of the European manufacturers is, in my humble opinion, a recipe for disaster as well as a contradiction...
Many of them detail the use of a full synthetic oil, mixed 30:1 for break-in. By doing this, the likelihood of ring(s) or valves failing to seat properly, goes up drastically. Proper ring/cylinder and valve/seat break-in REQUIRES some abrasive action during run-in. This is best achieved using a mineral-based ashless oil like Lawn Boy or Pennzoil. Yes, the oil content should be higher initially to provide adequate lubrication and heat disipation, so more oil (30:1) is a good thing.
Due to the lubricity of pure synthetic, the abrasive wear required for proper seating of the important "sealing components" may never be achieved - at least not uniformly on every cylinder - and thus the risk of blow-by or lack of vacuum (resulting in LEAN running) and greater heat is increased, which further exasurbates the situation to the point where cylnder and valve seating may NEVER be properly achieved! IF this happens, that cylinder will NEVER operate comparable to the other cylinders that have been properly broken-in.
I know there is more theory behind the break-in process and others may be able to elaborate, BUT I would NEVER take a new engine and run it on pure synthetic oil UNLESS no break-in is required - and YES, this is the case with many modern engines today in which manufacturing tolerances are so closely maintained AND in many cases, a factory break-in is performed. But IF that were the case with Moki's and Evolutions, then WHY are they recommeneding a "break-in" period?
Again, this my opinion based on many years of experience using Lawn Boy mixed 32:1 for the break in of ALL my gassers where a break-in is prescribed (INCLUDING my Moki 250).
Many of them detail the use of a full synthetic oil, mixed 30:1 for break-in. By doing this, the likelihood of ring(s) or valves failing to seat properly, goes up drastically. Proper ring/cylinder and valve/seat break-in REQUIRES some abrasive action during run-in. This is best achieved using a mineral-based ashless oil like Lawn Boy or Pennzoil. Yes, the oil content should be higher initially to provide adequate lubrication and heat disipation, so more oil (30:1) is a good thing.
Due to the lubricity of pure synthetic, the abrasive wear required for proper seating of the important "sealing components" may never be achieved - at least not uniformly on every cylinder - and thus the risk of blow-by or lack of vacuum (resulting in LEAN running) and greater heat is increased, which further exasurbates the situation to the point where cylnder and valve seating may NEVER be properly achieved! IF this happens, that cylinder will NEVER operate comparable to the other cylinders that have been properly broken-in.
I know there is more theory behind the break-in process and others may be able to elaborate, BUT I would NEVER take a new engine and run it on pure synthetic oil UNLESS no break-in is required - and YES, this is the case with many modern engines today in which manufacturing tolerances are so closely maintained AND in many cases, a factory break-in is performed. But IF that were the case with Moki's and Evolutions, then WHY are they recommeneding a "break-in" period?
Again, this my opinion based on many years of experience using Lawn Boy mixed 32:1 for the break in of ALL my gassers where a break-in is prescribed (INCLUDING my Moki 250).
11-24-2013, 10:32 AM
#2658
My Feedback: (62)
BMW break-in procedures for their motorcycles is the same way. Non-synthetic for 600 miles then synthetic is permissible. I have found that brake cleaner directed at the valve stems removes an enormous amount of black crap. I repeat until clear but for heavens sakes oiling must be done immediately for brake cleaner removes all oil!! never a stuck valve......
11-24-2013, 02:02 PM
#2659
My Feedback: (2)
I certainly can not disagree with the above. My opinion and experience are certainly non-qualified on my before post. Only experience with my Moki engine. One thing to bear in mind, manufacturers can refuse to honor an engine under warranty if they find that the break-in is done contradictory to their recommendation and instruction. When my engine was new and on the stand, I gummed up and stuck a valve. (#4 exhaust) Can't say for sure what caused it, but I used a non-synthetic oil at 32/1. It may have been that- plus running the engine too rich. I used a well know engine cleaning agent on the valve, and luckily, all was well after that.
Jaketab
Jaketab
11-24-2013, 04:39 PM
#2660
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I always believed in break-in on dinosaur oil then you could use what ever you wanted, this is true on most engines, but due to the moki having problems with valve sticking and dropping pushrods, I understand that they now recommend starting from day one with synthetic.
If the clearances are correct there is no break-in required on any engine except for the piston rings, and that only takes about a tank of fuel.
The old wives tale about babying an engine for so many miles was back when the machining was less desirable in engine manufacturing and you had to run the engine easy to wear down the high spots that were left due to this assembly line machining.
I have spent half my 67 years as an automotive machinist and have built world class engines for the quarter mile and boat racing and several other hobbies.
I can guarantee you that no one breaks in a high performance engine, it is assembled tuned then put on the track for maximum output.
Have you ever seen a nascar driver run his car around the track at 55 miles per hour to break it in for the big race ............not hardly.
If the engine manufacturer is worth a darn, the engine should be ready to go from the box it came in.
About the only engine I can think of that still needs an extensive break-in are the ABC engines.
I have run my Zenoah GT-80 from day one just to see if it would have any ill affects from running only synthetic, it still runs exceptionally well.
Plenty of compression runs quiet and smooth, I have 8 gallons of gas through it.
Of course this is the only test I have performed with synthetic, I am using synthetic in my Moki 215 with no ill effects so far, I don't have a lot run time on it but time will tell.
Are their any oil engineers out there that can shed light on this subject, this subject has been beat to death for so many years.
My two cents.
If the clearances are correct there is no break-in required on any engine except for the piston rings, and that only takes about a tank of fuel.
The old wives tale about babying an engine for so many miles was back when the machining was less desirable in engine manufacturing and you had to run the engine easy to wear down the high spots that were left due to this assembly line machining.
I have spent half my 67 years as an automotive machinist and have built world class engines for the quarter mile and boat racing and several other hobbies.
I can guarantee you that no one breaks in a high performance engine, it is assembled tuned then put on the track for maximum output.
Have you ever seen a nascar driver run his car around the track at 55 miles per hour to break it in for the big race ............not hardly.
If the engine manufacturer is worth a darn, the engine should be ready to go from the box it came in.
About the only engine I can think of that still needs an extensive break-in are the ABC engines.
I have run my Zenoah GT-80 from day one just to see if it would have any ill affects from running only synthetic, it still runs exceptionally well.
Plenty of compression runs quiet and smooth, I have 8 gallons of gas through it.
Of course this is the only test I have performed with synthetic, I am using synthetic in my Moki 215 with no ill effects so far, I don't have a lot run time on it but time will tell.
Are their any oil engineers out there that can shed light on this subject, this subject has been beat to death for so many years.
My two cents.
Last edited by wingstrut; 11-24-2013 at 04:41 PM.
11-24-2013, 05:37 PM
#2661
You have MANY who agree with your approach... a very good friend of mine who worked on the Yamaha 250cc Gran Prix racing team and even designed winning crankshafts for the team, says that "engine break-in" in this day and age is a total waste of time.
He runs all of his machines on their 'final mix' right out of the box... snow-mobiles, motorcycles, model engines... makes no difference.
I spoke with Dave Johnson of DA about this subject, specifically referencing some who run their new DA's on Amsoil 100:1 from day one... he was rather uncommitted regarding the subject, stating that some have done this with perfect results, while others... not so much. But DA has not changed their official position or literature re: engine break-in oil and mixes. Dittos 3W. And BOTH manufacturers recommend Lawn Boy ashless for break in.
There is also no doubt that running a gas engine with overly rich needle settings is NEVER a good thing as it can result in excess carbon and sticky valves.
Personally (from day one), I run my gas engines at just slightly less than their fully peaked needle settings with 32:1 LawnBoy, for 2 - 5 gallons. At some point during this process I find that the engine carburetor adjustments can be leaned further and smoother operation can be achieved once the engine is what we call "broken in" at which point, I switch to my running mix.
This has worked great on every gasser and I have never experienced a failure or uneven performance.
However, I am fully aware that this entire affair may be accomplishing nothing more than my own peace of mind
He runs all of his machines on their 'final mix' right out of the box... snow-mobiles, motorcycles, model engines... makes no difference.
I spoke with Dave Johnson of DA about this subject, specifically referencing some who run their new DA's on Amsoil 100:1 from day one... he was rather uncommitted regarding the subject, stating that some have done this with perfect results, while others... not so much. But DA has not changed their official position or literature re: engine break-in oil and mixes. Dittos 3W. And BOTH manufacturers recommend Lawn Boy ashless for break in.
There is also no doubt that running a gas engine with overly rich needle settings is NEVER a good thing as it can result in excess carbon and sticky valves.
Personally (from day one), I run my gas engines at just slightly less than their fully peaked needle settings with 32:1 LawnBoy, for 2 - 5 gallons. At some point during this process I find that the engine carburetor adjustments can be leaned further and smoother operation can be achieved once the engine is what we call "broken in" at which point, I switch to my running mix.
This has worked great on every gasser and I have never experienced a failure or uneven performance.
However, I am fully aware that this entire affair may be accomplishing nothing more than my own peace of mind
11-24-2013, 05:37 PM
#2662
I always believed in break-in on dinosaur oil then you could use what ever you wanted, this is true on most engines, but due to the moki having problems with valve sticking and dropping pushrods, I understand that they now recommend starting from day one with synthetic.
If the clearances are correct there is no break-in required on any engine except for the piston rings, and that only takes about a tank of fuel.
The old wives tale about babying an engine for so many miles was back when the machining was less desirable in engine manufacturing and you had to run the engine easy to wear down the high spots that were left due to this assembly line machining.
I have spent half my 67 years as an automotive machinist and have built world class engines for the quarter mile and boat racing and several other hobbies.
I can guarantee you that no one breaks in a high performance engine, it is assembled tuned then put on the track for maximum output.
Have you ever seen a nascar driver run his car around the track at 55 miles per hour to break it in for the big race ............not hardly.
If the engine manufacturer is worth a darn, the engine should be ready to go from the box it came in.
About the only engine I can think of that still needs an extensive break-in are the ABC engines.
I have run my Zenoah GT-80 from day one just to see if it would have any ill affects from running only synthetic, it still runs exceptionally well.
Plenty of compression runs quiet and smooth, I have 8 gallons of gas through it.
Of course this is the only test I have performed with synthetic, I am using synthetic in my Moki 215 with no ill effects so far, I don't have a lot run time on it but time will tell.
Are their any oil engineers out there that can shed light on this subject, this subject has been beat to death for so many years.
My two cents.
If the clearances are correct there is no break-in required on any engine except for the piston rings, and that only takes about a tank of fuel.
The old wives tale about babying an engine for so many miles was back when the machining was less desirable in engine manufacturing and you had to run the engine easy to wear down the high spots that were left due to this assembly line machining.
I have spent half my 67 years as an automotive machinist and have built world class engines for the quarter mile and boat racing and several other hobbies.
I can guarantee you that no one breaks in a high performance engine, it is assembled tuned then put on the track for maximum output.
Have you ever seen a nascar driver run his car around the track at 55 miles per hour to break it in for the big race ............not hardly.
If the engine manufacturer is worth a darn, the engine should be ready to go from the box it came in.
About the only engine I can think of that still needs an extensive break-in are the ABC engines.
I have run my Zenoah GT-80 from day one just to see if it would have any ill affects from running only synthetic, it still runs exceptionally well.
Plenty of compression runs quiet and smooth, I have 8 gallons of gas through it.
Of course this is the only test I have performed with synthetic, I am using synthetic in my Moki 215 with no ill effects so far, I don't have a lot run time on it but time will tell.
Are their any oil engineers out there that can shed light on this subject, this subject has been beat to death for so many years.
My two cents.
You have MANY who agree with your approach... a very good friend of mine who worked on the Yamaha 250cc Gran Prix racing team and even designed winning crankshafts for the team, says that "engine break-in" in this day and age is a total waste of time.
He runs all of his machines on their 'final mix' right out of the box... snow-mobiles, motorcycles, model engines... makes no difference.
I spoke with Dave Johnson of DA about this subject, specifically referencing some who run their new DA's on Amsoil 100:1 from day one... he was rather uncommitted regarding the subject, stating that some have done this with perfect results, while others... not so much. But DA has not changed their official position or literature re: engine break-in oil and mixes. Dittos 3W. And BOTH manufacturers recommend Lawn Boy ashless for break in.
There is also no doubt that running a gas engine with overly rich needle settings is NEVER a good thing as it can result in excess carbon and sticky valves.
Personally (from day one), I run my gas engines at just slightly less than their fully peaked needle settings with 32:1 LawnBoy, for 2 - 5 gallons. At some point during this process I find that the engine carburetor adjustments can be leaned further and smoother operation can be achieved once the engine is what we call "broken in" at which point, I switch to my running mix.
This has worked great on every gasser and I have never experienced a failure or uneven performance.
However, I am fully aware that this entire affair may be accomplishing nothing more than my own peace of mind
He runs all of his machines on their 'final mix' right out of the box... snow-mobiles, motorcycles, model engines... makes no difference.
I spoke with Dave Johnson of DA about this subject, specifically referencing some who run their new DA's on Amsoil 100:1 from day one... he was rather uncommitted regarding the subject, stating that some have done this with perfect results, while others... not so much. But DA has not changed their official position or literature re: engine break-in oil and mixes. Dittos 3W. And BOTH manufacturers recommend Lawn Boy ashless for break in.
There is also no doubt that running a gas engine with overly rich needle settings is NEVER a good thing as it can result in excess carbon and sticky valves.
Personally (from day one), I run my gas engines at just slightly less than their fully peaked needle settings with 32:1 LawnBoy, for 2 - 5 gallons. At some point during this process I find that the engine carburetor adjustments can be leaned further and smoother operation can be achieved once the engine is what we call "broken in" at which point, I switch to my running mix.
This has worked great on every gasser and I have never experienced a failure or uneven performance.
However, I am fully aware that this entire affair may be accomplishing nothing more than my own peace of mind
11-24-2013, 07:25 PM
#2663
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Richard, IT doesn't hurt to be on the safe side of running your engines, A lot of people have no idea of how to adjust the carb on an engine, they think they do, but that is where you get that percentage of failure and it is blamed on the oil, gas, mixture, prop in other words everything but themselves.
I could write a book on guys destroying new engines because of their carelessness.
Setting the engine is simple, you find the max RPM and back off about 300 to 500 rpm you fly the plane and listen closely and you can tell if it's too rich or lean.
You land and readjust to get the correct setting, I use a thermal heat gun which helps even more to get the optimal setting without overheating the engine or running too cold,
yes running an engine too cold will also damage it.
Getting the engine to run at it's best will take time, you can't do it on the first flight.
Another point is a lot of guys try to get the maximum possible rpm out of their engines and end up damaging something.
I learned at a young age if you want to go faster put a bigger engine in it, instead of thrashing the smaller one to try to keep up.
I think the main problem here is the Moki has a tendency to stick a valve if using dinosaur oil, that is why it is recommended using synthetic.
I will stop my lecturing, by your description I would let you run any one of my engines.
I could write a book on guys destroying new engines because of their carelessness.
Setting the engine is simple, you find the max RPM and back off about 300 to 500 rpm you fly the plane and listen closely and you can tell if it's too rich or lean.
You land and readjust to get the correct setting, I use a thermal heat gun which helps even more to get the optimal setting without overheating the engine or running too cold,
yes running an engine too cold will also damage it.
Getting the engine to run at it's best will take time, you can't do it on the first flight.
Another point is a lot of guys try to get the maximum possible rpm out of their engines and end up damaging something.
I learned at a young age if you want to go faster put a bigger engine in it, instead of thrashing the smaller one to try to keep up.
I think the main problem here is the Moki has a tendency to stick a valve if using dinosaur oil, that is why it is recommended using synthetic.
I will stop my lecturing, by your description I would let you run any one of my engines.
11-24-2013, 09:50 PM
#2664
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I have been considering the purchase of a new 180 however the problem of a dead 7 o'clock cylinder is holding me back. It appears from reading through this forum that neither the rainbow ignition, e fuel pump & the Kunkel turbulator, all after market items, fail to satifactorily solve this problem.
Is the dropping out of the 7 o'clock cylinder caused by an excessivley rich condition? And if so has anyone tried to fit a small bleed air valve in that intake manifold just to lean out that cylinder?
Thanks, Richard
Is the dropping out of the 7 o'clock cylinder caused by an excessivley rich condition? And if so has anyone tried to fit a small bleed air valve in that intake manifold just to lean out that cylinder?
Thanks, Richard
11-24-2013, 11:03 PM
#2665
I'll also be picking up a 180 for a Zero project.
I have a new 150 that has just "broken in" (on more changes to the valves when checked at the end of a flying period) and it has run perfectly since day one with (no) baffling, the new style Moki high energy ignition (on a 2 cell LiPo), 50-1 oil in high octane gas, a Bambula 26 X 16 prop, fuel pump, and is installed in a P-47 with operational cowl flaps that are kept open during flight. It has been leaned out gradually during the first 15 flights.
I expect to get the same results with the 180, and have no reservations about getting one.
I have a new 150 that has just "broken in" (on more changes to the valves when checked at the end of a flying period) and it has run perfectly since day one with (no) baffling, the new style Moki high energy ignition (on a 2 cell LiPo), 50-1 oil in high octane gas, a Bambula 26 X 16 prop, fuel pump, and is installed in a P-47 with operational cowl flaps that are kept open during flight. It has been leaned out gradually during the first 15 flights.
I expect to get the same results with the 180, and have no reservations about getting one.
11-25-2013, 01:28 AM
#2666
At last! Those last few posts have brought some reality to the discussion, breaking or as we say “running engines in” is a waste of time, it just satisfied a past need when machineing was primative. Also the point raised about carb adjustment is a good one, if the carb is set slightly lean it may be difficult to diagnose what it can do though is to exasipate a struggleing cylinder.
11-25-2013, 03:08 AM
#2667
My Feedback: (62)
Richard, The Kunkle turbulator will not work on any 150 manufactured after 2009 and any 180. They changed the inlet tract so the turbulator is ineffective which is too bad. My 2008 150 benefitted greatly with this device. Should not have sold it. My 215 has one too. -Tom
11-25-2013, 08:51 AM
#2668
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Gary,
thanks for the reply. I do not fully understand what you meant by "(on more changes to the valves when checked at the end of a flying period) ". Do I understand correctly that your new 150 has the same ignition as the new 180? Hurry and get the new 180 and let me know how it runs ;-). Nice looking Corsair!
Tom, thanks for the info on the turbulator.
Thanks guys, Richard
thanks for the reply. I do not fully understand what you meant by "(on more changes to the valves when checked at the end of a flying period) ". Do I understand correctly that your new 150 has the same ignition as the new 180? Hurry and get the new 180 and let me know how it runs ;-)
. Nice looking Corsair!Tom, thanks for the info on the turbulator.
Thanks guys, Richard
11-25-2013, 02:06 PM
#2669
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Richard, I have never tried to install an air bleed in any manifold to try and correct a rich condition,
Read Jaketabs reply above #2656 especially the part about keeping a fresh plug in #3 while getting the rings seated, this is definitely the nature of the beast, I believe all radial engines have this same problem, the only correct fix is a carb for each cyl. Now wouldn't that be fun.
I would like to state also on my zenoah GT-80 due to one carb feeding two cyls. on a long intake manifold that one cyls runs considerably richer than the other, there again one carb for each cyl. would be the answer.
My 215 runs very well, #3 does run cooler than the rest but you can't tell if that cyl. is not working as well as the others, so I don't worry about it.
The engine does lope at idle but smooths out the moment I give it the throttle.
Maybe I'm lucky and don't have the same problem the other guys are having........YET!
Read Jaketabs reply above #2656 especially the part about keeping a fresh plug in #3 while getting the rings seated, this is definitely the nature of the beast, I believe all radial engines have this same problem, the only correct fix is a carb for each cyl. Now wouldn't that be fun.
I would like to state also on my zenoah GT-80 due to one carb feeding two cyls. on a long intake manifold that one cyls runs considerably richer than the other, there again one carb for each cyl. would be the answer.
My 215 runs very well, #3 does run cooler than the rest but you can't tell if that cyl. is not working as well as the others, so I don't worry about it.
The engine does lope at idle but smooths out the moment I give it the throttle.
Maybe I'm lucky and don't have the same problem the other guys are having........YET!
11-25-2013, 02:14 PM
#2670
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Have you tried inverting the engine so that there is a different cylinder in that position, just to verify that indeed it is that position that is causing the problem...
So far no one has tried that as far as I know, (me being one of them ) not having tried that, unfortunately my stuff is put away for the winter.....
Just an idea.....
So far no one has tried that as far as I know, (me being one of them ) not having tried that, unfortunately my stuff is put away for the winter.....
Just an idea.....
11-25-2013, 06:38 PM
#2671
Gary,
thanks for the reply. I do not fully understand what you meant by "(on more changes to the valves when checked at the end of a flying period) ". Do I understand correctly that your new 150 has the same ignition as the new 180? Hurry and get the new 180 and let me know how it runs ;-). Nice looking Corsair!
Tom, thanks for the info on the turbulator.
Thanks guys, Richard
thanks for the reply. I do not fully understand what you meant by "(on more changes to the valves when checked at the end of a flying period) ". Do I understand correctly that your new 150 has the same ignition as the new 180? Hurry and get the new 180 and let me know how it runs ;-)
. Nice looking Corsair!Tom, thanks for the info on the turbulator.
Thanks guys, Richard
On new Moki's, I check and adjust the valves after every flight for the first few flights. I continue to check them after each day of flying until I don't find any that need adjusted. It takes maybe 10 to15 flights of 10 or 12 minutes. At this point, I consider them 'worn in', After this, I continue to keep an eye on them and check them maybe once a month, or anytime I have the cowl off. I oil them before each flying session as always.
I learned the hard way what can happen if you wait too long to check them, and one gets loose and ejects it's push rod (Top Gun 2012). The rod went forward into the prop (maybe because of the baffles) and split one of the three blades in half. We could easily have lost the Corsair, but got her down safely. New prop blades (all three) and a new rod, adjusted everything again, and that was it. Now I check things religiously. Radials are more needy, but the low RPM torque and sound are worth it for me, and especially in warbirds that should have round engines.
Yes, as I understand it, all new Moki engines will have the new generation high energy ignition. The aftermarket Rainbow ignition is only available for the 150, as far as I know, but it seams that it should work for the 180 as well.
We worked into the evening adjusting the new prop blades for the proper RPM, to continue the competition the next morning.
Last edited by ram3500-RCU; 11-25-2013 at 07:01 PM.
11-25-2013, 07:47 PM
#2672
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Thanks for explaining your valve lash service technique. It appears that keeping these radials in tune was as fiddly as my MG A Twin Cam was back when I was a kid. Keeping it running was so fussy that I had to run cold plugs when running on the highways and hotter plugs in around town, among other things. Do they have different heat range plugs for the Moki's ?
Hienz, IIRC someone previously mentioned rotating the engine around the mount and it was always the same 7 o 'clock jug that gave the symptoms.
Thanks for answering my questions.
Richard
Hienz, IIRC someone previously mentioned rotating the engine around the mount and it was always the same 7 o 'clock jug that gave the symptoms.
Thanks for answering my questions.
Richard
11-26-2013, 06:30 AM
#2673
I have a new 180 on the test stand, I tried rotating, but I could not get it to start in the rotated position. So but it back and got to crank up. Still the #3 (7 0clock) is colder than the rest. Takes about 10 mins to get #3 warmed up to about 170 degs. Which is the warmest I have been able to get #3. The other cylinders range from 195 to 210.
11-28-2013, 05:01 PM
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That's disappointing Georgia, Was kind off hoping Moki had the problem sorted out with the new ignition but guess not. Looks like a complete redesign of the induction system may be in order. Hopefully after a few hours of running and the rings get seated in number three it will come alive. Keep us posted please...Happy Thanksgiving all...Richard
