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Me and EBAY dont get along. For some weird reason I get this thing at login for a PIN from some FOB I never have seen. I tried to contact their support, but they prompted me to login to get to support. I can't reset my password since I dont have that doohicky for the PIN, and I dont accept text on my phones. I missed out on quite a few items because of this, including a full set of P-61 plans for $30.
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I see they still build the Kougar. Mine was a beautiful, hot machine with a tuned pipe 40FSR. Wonder how it would fare with a Saito 62.
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Sorry about that.my wife bit^^&chef at me that she couldn't access her ebay account.ebay was hacked earlier this year and they essentially cancelled out accounts that hadn't been used. Much.anyway she and so did I set up new ebay passwords.now it works.i hate losing out on stuff you have sympathies.i finally just landed a hyperbipe
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It took some searching & head scratching, but i finally found them. Google "M5 90 degree brass nipple fitting"
Turns out that they are commonly used on R/C boats.
http://www.mhzusa.com/Nipple-Connect...5-m-1591-5.htm
http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-Degree-br...item3f35ddb0b2
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-90-degre...item4abf451999
They are also available in 2-piece swivel set-ups too.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-DEGREE-WA...item27bb655321
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 06-24-2014 at 05:46 PM.
about the engine tuning / with different props.
Most instructions say find the peak and then richen the engine by 200-300rpm from the peak rpm. This is preferably done with tank half full.
I have noticed, however, that if you use a low pitch propeller, say 15x6 or 16x6 you probably need to richen the engine more, say 400+ rpm?
An example: I just tuned my FA-125: it peaked at 9450 with 15x6 APC. (The engine is fairly new)
Max rpm at tank half after richening the engine: about 9200
Still the engine gives a tad more power during long verticals with tank FULL. As the tank empties the vertical performance is still good but a tad less than with the full tank. The engine does not sound, however, any different (no sound of detonation) I can touch the cylinder right after the landing but I can not hold my finger on the cylinder fins.
Any thoughts?
P.S. The engine is mounted on a Hangar-9 40-size Saratoga so the vertical performance is pretty good no matter how I tune the engine The cylinder is well exposed so the cowling does not effect on cooling
-Artto
Most instructions say find the peak and then richen the engine by 200-300rpm from the peak rpm. This is preferably done with tank half full.
I have noticed, however, that if you use a low pitch propeller, say 15x6 or 16x6 you probably need to richen the engine more, say 400+ rpm?
An example: I just tuned my FA-125: it peaked at 9450 with 15x6 APC. (The engine is fairly new)
Max rpm at tank half after richening the engine: about 9200
Still the engine gives a tad more power during long verticals with tank FULL. As the tank empties the vertical performance is still good but a tad less than with the full tank. The engine does not sound, however, any different (no sound of detonation) I can touch the cylinder right after the landing but I can not hold my finger on the cylinder fins.
Any thoughts?
P.S. The engine is mounted on a Hangar-9 40-size Saratoga so the vertical performance is pretty good no matter how I tune the engine The cylinder is well exposed so the cowling does not effect on cooling
-Artto
Last edited by AeroFinn; 06-24-2014 at 09:59 PM.
Ok yes your tuning approach is good,your engine is still to rich while flying,i don't know how to say it properly but my aircraft performance improves as the tank goes down.
l know it's not a Saito! BUT! Anybody got a line on some old Air Hobbies or Sach-Brison parts? l got a Air Hobbies 6.4 Tween that l need a prop bolt for it. l was told that a G62 would work! Won't work! Just a littel to big. I got the spinner bolt broke off in it. Try'd to drill and retap the bolt. Now l got a tap broke off in the bolt. The spinner bolt was soft, EZ to drill, BUT! The tap is as hard or harder than the prop bolt. Took it to a shop and they said that they could not do anything with it! l can still run the engine, BUT! No spinner I'm starting to hate LARGE PLANES! To big, To heavy, To much glue and covering! Think I'm going back to 40-180 planes! LOL..... Got a Saito 91 & a 50, not using the 50, may get read of it? lt's been soaking in glow fuel & Marvels Mystery oil for two years, just got to put it back to gather & bench run it. (I got it used & they did not use any after run in it) I did run it, Just wonted clean it up. P.S. News just came on & the first story was on the Hobby Drones (Quid Copters) People Spying in peoples back yards! lf you have one, be careful where you fly them! Sucks, cant do anything anymore! Happy Flying
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l know it's not a Saito! BUT! Anybody got a line on some old Air Hobbies or Sach-Brison parts? l got a Air Hobbies 6.4 Tween that l need a prop bolt for it. l was told that a G62 would work! Won't work! Just a littel to big. I got the spinner bolt broke off in it. Try'd to drill and retap the bolt. Now l got a tap broke off in the bolt. The spinner bolt was soft, EZ to drill, BUT! The tap is as hard or harder than the prop bolt. Took it to a shop and they said that they could not do anything with it! l can still run the engine, BUT! No spinner I'm starting to hate LARGE PLANES! To big, To heavy, To much glue and covering! Think I'm going back to 40-180 planes! LOL..... Got a Saito 91 & a 50, not using the 50, may get read of it? lt's been soaking in glow fuel & Marvels Mystery oil for two years, just got to put it back to gather & bench run it. (I got it used & they did not use any after run in it) I did run it, Just wonted clean it up. P.S. News just came on & the first story was on the Hobby Drones (Quid Copters) People Spying in peoples back yards! lf you have one, be careful where you fly them! Sucks, cant do anything anymore! Happy Flying
I really mean to be polte when i say this.Sammy i thought you were a creation of w8y,blw,hobbsy or some other controller,or friend of the controller who,in a more relaxed frame of mind thought hey! lets have some fun....
Jeeminy Christmas, do I gotta hold yer hand through all this?
It took some searching & head scratching, but i finally found them. Google "M5 90 degree brass nipple fitting"
Turns out that they are commonly used on R/C boats.
http://www.mhzusa.com/Nipple-Connect...5-m-1591-5.htm
http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-Degree-br...item3f35ddb0b2
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-90-degre...item4abf451999
They are also available in 2-piece swivel set-ups too.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-DEGREE-WA...item27bb655321
It took some searching & head scratching, but i finally found them. Google "M5 90 degree brass nipple fitting"
Turns out that they are commonly used on R/C boats.
http://www.mhzusa.com/Nipple-Connect...5-m-1591-5.htm
http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-Degree-br...item3f35ddb0b2
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-90-degre...item4abf451999
They are also available in 2-piece swivel set-ups too.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-DEGREE-WA...item27bb655321
Good links to the breather nipples thank mate.
Thanks, what is confusing is in your case your aircraft performance improves as the tank goes down while in my case it decreases? I think yours goes leaner = more horse power along with the decreasing amount of fuel in tank. I wonder if in my case the engine goes from slightly rich to slightly lean.
Should I be, however, on a safe side to do the final adjusting one click at a time? I am planning to richen the engine one click at a time and fly the model while observing the its behaviour.
-Artto
Last edited by AeroFinn; 06-25-2014 at 05:52 AM.
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Hi Old Fart
Thanks, what is confusing is in your case your aircraft performance improves as the tank goes down while in my case it decreases? I think yours goes leaner = more horse power along with the decreasing amount of fuel in tank. I wonder if in my case the engine goes from slightly rich to slightly lean.
Thanks, what is confusing is in your case your aircraft performance improves as the tank goes down while in my case it decreases? I think yours goes leaner = more horse power along with the decreasing amount of fuel in tank. I wonder if in my case the engine goes from slightly rich to slightly lean.
Tank distance and placement can increase the distance between the two settings too.
ie, if your tank is a little farther from the carb than his, you have to set richer to get the same lean as his.
Of course it could just be a case of engine nerves, as the tank level drops the engine gets nervous about running out and tightens up, creating less power.
Nick
Just my two bits, but as an old control line stunt flyer, It sounds to me like his engine goes from moderately rich, to just right lean, while yours is going from not quite rich enough to a little too lean.
Tank distance and placement can increase the distance between the two settings too.
ie, if your tank is a little farther from the carb than his, you have to set richer to get the same lean as his.
Of course it could just be a case of engine nerves, as the tank level drops the engine gets nervous about running out and tightens up, creating less power.
Nick
Tank distance and placement can increase the distance between the two settings too.
ie, if your tank is a little farther from the carb than his, you have to set richer to get the same lean as his.
Of course it could just be a case of engine nerves, as the tank level drops the engine gets nervous about running out and tightens up, creating less power.
Nick
that's just what I think happens in my case. So the "richen the engine (at half tank) by 200-300rpm" general rule may be valid with higher pitch props but with lower pitch props you need to rich the engine more, say, maybe about 400rpm or so. This is provided with the tank height & distance are within Saito's specs
-artto
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Now since you're one up on me with weird engine stuff, here's one of mine.
I have the FG11 (and love it) each run is super reliable, no sags, no burbles, no cut offs....
But.
Every time I start it up to fly, whether a week later or a half hour later, the Hi needle has changed.
First flight last Sunday, it was a little to lean, we leaned it with a tach, nose up and it flew terrific, (That's the vid of the 13/6 prop we posted in the Smith thread). http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...-build-47.html
Half an hour later, we started it up set it on the side of the runway, cleared the carb and it was sloppy rich, had to lean it out 5 clicks.
Then it flew perfectly again.
Didn't get a third flight, got rained out.
Wonder what's going on?
guess I'll just have to watch and wait to find out.
I have the FG11 (and love it) each run is super reliable, no sags, no burbles, no cut offs....
But.
Every time I start it up to fly, whether a week later or a half hour later, the Hi needle has changed.
First flight last Sunday, it was a little to lean, we leaned it with a tach, nose up and it flew terrific, (That's the vid of the 13/6 prop we posted in the Smith thread). http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...-build-47.html
Half an hour later, we started it up set it on the side of the runway, cleared the carb and it was sloppy rich, had to lean it out 5 clicks.
Then it flew perfectly again.
Didn't get a third flight, got rained out.
Wonder what's going on?
guess I'll just have to watch and wait to find out.
Last edited by taildragger1589; 06-25-2014 at 10:32 AM.
Now since you're one up on me with weird engine stuff, here's one of mine.
I have the FG11 (and love it) each run is super reliable, no sags, no burbles, no cut offs....
But.
Every time I start it up to fly, whether a week later or a half hour later, the Hi needle has changed.
First flight last Sunday, it was a little to lean, we leaned it with a tach, nose up and it flew terrific, (That's the vid of the 13/6 prop we posted in the Smith thread). http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...-build-47.html
Half an hour later, we started it up set it on the side of the runway, cleared the carb and it was sloppy rich, had to lean it out 5 clicks.
Then it flew perfectly again.
Didn't get a third flight, got rained out.
Wonder what's going on?
guess I'll just have to watch and wait to find out.
I have the FG11 (and love it) each run is super reliable, no sags, no burbles, no cut offs....
But.
Every time I start it up to fly, whether a week later or a half hour later, the Hi needle has changed.
First flight last Sunday, it was a little to lean, we leaned it with a tach, nose up and it flew terrific, (That's the vid of the 13/6 prop we posted in the Smith thread). http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/kit-...-build-47.html
Half an hour later, we started it up set it on the side of the runway, cleared the carb and it was sloppy rich, had to lean it out 5 clicks.
Then it flew perfectly again.
Didn't get a third flight, got rained out.
Wonder what's going on?
guess I'll just have to watch and wait to find out.
I do not have experience on gas 4-strokes. What I have noticed, however, that often the engine settles during the first flight of the day. So if you start fidleing with the needles without flying the model first you may end up changing the perfect needle setting to less optimal. But like I said, this is my experience with glow engines and I do not know if this makes sense with gas engines
I have noticed this as well. my DLE though once the needles were set after break in(which just happened recently after 2 years), I haven't had to touch them.
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I think maybe it's just not broken in sufficiently then.
I always hold the nose up for 10- 20 seconds before take off. (I hate it when the engine sags on take off)
So far, on the first flight of the day, it sags when I do this, I guess one day I'll go to adjust it on the second flight and discover it's running fine.
(hopefully this year)
Nick
I always hold the nose up for 10- 20 seconds before take off. (I hate it when the engine sags on take off)
So far, on the first flight of the day, it sags when I do this, I guess one day I'll go to adjust it on the second flight and discover it's running fine.
(hopefully this year)
Nick
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Old Fart, do you have an A.I.S / Coles tool satore near you? or a super cheap. You'll find the nipple that you want there. You might have to buy some grease nipples but then all you have to do is run a small (1/16th) drill down the guts. That is assuming they aren't already clear. Other alternative is to go to nearest largeish aerodrome check out the spare parts supplier (Aviall comes to mind) and if you don't find what you want there get back to me
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On the road of fault fixing. One for the troops to comment on. Saito fitted to a Privateer (O/T) bubbles in the fuel line, chews up 30+ mls in absolutely no time, transition from low to high speed erattic. Thoughts please. I have the answer but I am interested in what others think of the problem. It stumped 6 off regular Saito operators for about 4 hours at the field the other day