kwik

Good grief, Sparky4LD, that sounds terrible. The flying season is more or less over here now, so I guess I will have to inspect mine.

Aren't the cylinder bolts Allen bolts? In that case, I think I can get to them perhaps with a allen-key, cut with a dremel.

ALFIEV

Yes, they are a socket head. And yes, an allen key had to be cut shorter with the dremel to enable it to fit into the recess in the cylinder. Not the most stable tool to use, no apparent way of actually torqueing it to a specific value (what ever that value would be), but it does work.

kwik

Thats true, getting a specific torque would be difficult. I wonder if locktite 222 for example would help.

ALFIEV

Not sure of the specs on Locktite 222, I would wonder whether the Locktite would soften/melt when heated. Perhaps it could work.

chorner

Could you not just put a lock washer and some thread locker on the bolts? Try cutting down an Allen wrench to as short as you can get it and using that to tighten the bolts. Shouldn't have that issue to begin with though of course!

ALFIEV

Yep.

chorner

Must've posted that right when the other replies were being saved otherwise I would've have repeated basically the exact same message

Timbers

My Feedback: (3)

Does anyone know why one of the jug screws on each cylinder has some gold paint on it? Mine just came in the other day and I noticed that.

Its also the first engine I've owned where the jug screws have little washers under them. I've never had to threadlock any screw on any nitro or gasoline engine I've owned in the past. For some reason they never have issues with loosening up. I wonder if the washers are a clue as to why the screws loosen up.

I want to make sure this doesn't happen to be. I'm probably a week or two away from breaking mine in as I need to build a test stand first that can handle the power this thing makes.

the pope

Is the paint there so they know if its been undone in case of a warranty claim ? Cheers the pope

kwik

Could be. Or some quality control marking.

MDavis28

Hi guys, I may be new to this thread but not the fg60. I have 5.5 hrs total run time including 12 flights with it in TF P-47 razorback. Yes it all fits and has plenty of power. My wonderful engine has developed a squeak on the no1 cylinder exhaust valve. Not sure what to do about this. I am getting 6100-6300 rpms on the ground with a xoar 22x10 prop and a max temp in flight of 180-200F. Sitting on the runway it will get upto 220F. I have not had a single issue with this engine ( other than a bad ignition box). Here is a video of what I am trying to describe.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KOfMiOF9504 thanks, Matt D

the pope

Is it a squeak or more like a whistle , like air passing through a bike pump is making the noise ! I seem to have had a similar noise in the past but I cant even remember where I heard it . Not even sure if it was rc engine related . Good luck with your engine though and report back when you get it figured out . No carbon build up on that valve ? Cheers the pope

kwik

I think it will be cured by putting, say 20 ml oil into the crank-case via the breather nipple,
I believe the sound comes from the valve-springs, but don't fully understand whats going on. It will disappear, however, with the 20 ml.

I cannot say for sure this is the case for your engine, but normally, for me, that sound came from a dry crank-case.
Somehow. And disappears with the 20 ml.

MDavis28

I don't think either will help. I also don't think it is the valve spring. This squeak shows up after either the second or third flight of the day. The plane can fly for 45 min if I wanted but I only fly for 5 min as I don't want to be an air hog. My fear is that it is the valve stem and valve guide. if these are getting this dry then they are going to prematurely wear out. I don't think that it is a dry case either since there is a lot of oil coming out of the breather nipple. An since there is so much coming out, why is non or very little getting to the top of no1 cylinder? I am considering tapping and putting a breather nipple on the cam covers and routing the oil thru them before exiting the engine. Well, still investigating......

the pope

I think I remember where I heard a similar noise . It was on a saito 82 which had a undersized hole drilled in the breather nipple . One would think that this would be a constant noise . Maybe someone could measure theirs to compare . Cheers the pope

hpergm

Hi Alfiev. 6,000 is too low even for an XOAR... Something is amiss in your set-up. May I propose the folliowing:
1. Check that your throttle barrel is 100% open (not 90% and not 105%, which also causes a drop in rpm in this carb...!) and that the barrel lever is not sliding or loose. I know, elementary, but been there, done that.
2. Are you sure you check the valve clearances correctly? Please take care to measure at TDC of the firing stroke and not the exhaust stroke. Again, elementary but let's not say how I know.
3. Is your ignition battery all charged up? The module fires all 3 cylinders every 360 degrees and thus consumes a lot of current at high rpm. If you are using a non-lithium pack it could pose a current delivery limit...
4. The multicylnder is difficult to read by ear or finger - you need a thermometer, better a contact one (non IR). If not tuned properly, the engine will miss firing cycles randomly, especially if too lean. All temps will appear even to the touch or an IR probe (but not to a contact thermometer) but you will not get peak performance. In a single cylinder motor, it will just quit in such a condition, but a multi can momentarily drop one cylinder while the others keep it turning... Try returning to the factory set-up (open the H more than 7 turns and the low more than 2 or 3) and set-up by temperatures at 75% throttle.

See here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...l#post11955975

Do not try to go for a best idle (5% throttle), this is not a good way in this motor.

Hope this helps...

Hector.

sparky4lawndart

My Feedback: (10)

Hey guys.. I wanted your input on Fuelil mix... I've been running 17:1 Redline since I first got the motors (I have two)... any thoughts on running 30:1 with a synthetic like Amzoil (high quality)... I know its less cooling oil (why 17:1 is necessary).

I'd follow Kwik's recommendation of putting 20ml of oil in the breather fitting... but I wonder if anyone has tried 30:1 or even less (like 50:1) in this motor. The small motor guy I met last weekend swears that no small motor needs that much oil.. He explained that in 30 years of small gas motor repair he's never heard of that requirement...

any input is appreciated and Thanks in advance!

ALFIEV

Hey Hector, thanks for the comments. I was afraid things weren't quite right, thought I should be doing better than 5800 rpm. I will go over the things you have suggested. Wow! I seem to be checking valve clearances every 5 minutes on this thing. Certainly more work than a single cylinder.

To set up the clearances I have turned the motor until both rockers have gaps, logic tells me that this has to be on the compression stroke since a valve has to be opening on all other strokes. I do this with the spark plug out and I feel the piston ascending with a small plastic tube. When the piston stops ascending, and begins descending I know I have gone too far and reverse the motion until the piston is once again at the top of its ascending motion. That is where I check the gaps and adjust. Does this seem to be a reasonable method?

I ran the engine two days ago, and it starts and runs just fine, just won't accelerate beyond 5800 rpm. Yes, I am using an IR type thermometer, don't have access to a contact type. There doesn't seem to be a lot in the way of supply of touch type thermometers for model engines in my part of the world.

I am using a plug in type digital tachometer, this has been checked for accuracy by also using a hand-held laser type tachometer.

I am using a 5 cell 6v NiMh battery pack. I don't let the voltage fall below 6 v.

I was concerned about whether the throttle was fully open or not, I have the throttle controlled by a servo, signal from my transmitter. To check this I loosened the throttle control rod and moved it manually independent of the servo. It made no difference, and the throttle looks to be fully open when viewed in the carburettor.

Yeah, will check to ensure the barrel isn't slipping, and will check/adjust the valves AGAIN, and will look at changing the settings high and low needles back to factory as you suggest.

Thanks again!

Alf

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

If the Engine is not out of warranty then why not send it in to Horizon? Let them look at it and fix it.
That way if in the future it fails you can demonstrate you had them look at it before etc.

ALFIEV

Well, for those who live in the USA then that is surely the best way. Sadly, for someone living down my end of the world it is not so simple. I did not buy this through Horizon Hobby. I had a previous dealing with them that was not satisfactory, however I do note that their attitude towards International customers appears to have warmed somewhat. Suffice to say, that 2 years ago they were very unhelpful.

So I purchased off RCJapan. The price was a little less, and the courier post was a little less.

There are no dealers or distributors closer to New Zealand that I am aware of. Returning the engine to Japan is not a easy option.

Yep, would be great to have a distributor like Horizon local to us, but it's just not a reality. I make the best of what is available.

Thanks for the thought.

Regards

Alf

ALFIEV

Ran the engine again today. Appears that one of the spark plug leads had vibrated loose, noted that the temp on No 3 cylinder was way down. Managed to get that sorted, temp on that cylinder is much better now. Max rmp 6000.
Temperatures around 110 degrees C. What do you think a Max lean temp should be?
I did also adjust valves. It seems to have improved, but still nowhere near 6500-6800 rpm.

MDavis28

Hi guys, I made a call to Horizon and they thought it might be corrosion build up on the rocker arm. I took her out for another flying session and after 30min the squeak was back. Now the squeak is not noticeable while it is running, but is when you go to start the engine even while it is hot. When I got home i decided to video tear down of the no1 cylinder exhaust valve to pin point the source. I took the rocker arm off and checked it for corrosion and didn't find any, I oiled the arm pin and the contact point where it contacts the valve. reassembled and it was still there. So next I took it apart again but took the retaining clip and spring out as well just leaving the valve in the head. I couldn't get it to squeak with my hand but it definitely wasn't smooth moving up and down. I add a little bit of oil to the valve stem only and put it all back together and the squeak is now gone again. So I am positively sure it is the valve stem and guide that is having an issue. Now how to solve it? First was to check needle settings and possibly richen up the low side needle. If this doesn't help, I am thinking of using an oil or lubricant like what guys use on the Moki engines. Since it seems to bit a little thick and sticky then I would put quite a bit in the valve cover and put the cap back on and check it every 2 hs of run time. Ideas?
MD

chorner

Finally took the plunge and bought this engine, and a Keleo ring to go. I bought an ASP FS400AR for really cheap last summer with the HobbyKing sale, but I think I'll keep it for another project at some point and use this FG-60 in my Top Flite P-47

What's everyones experience on the best oil, and oil ratio to use on this engine after running it for a while now?

MDavis28

I really like my FG-60. I fear that I have the low end too lean. I hope that riching it up a bit will fix my squeaky valve. I am running 20:1 Stihl HP Ultra with ethanol free 93 gas. I run this in all my Gas Saito engines. My FG-21 is a year old now with about 60 flights on it, thats about 11 hrs run time not including the break in. I set the needles earlier this year and haven't touched them since. I figured that since the weather has gotten cold I would have to richen up the low end on it, but i didn't have to. It still runs great. It hand starts easily and doesn't quit till you turn the ignition off.

Sparky, I wouldn't try running anything different of the oil mix than what the MFG recommends. This motor has a lot of little moving parts and since my engine seems to have an oiling problem on the top cylinder, I surly am not going to change my oil mix. If any thing I might go to the 15:1, and thats a big IF! With 6 hrs of run time on it now I have noticed the oil mess from the exhaust is getting less and less with every flight. Just my .02
good luck with your engine!
MD

MDavis28

Hey guys just found a video of my P-47! had no idea! This is how the FG-60 performs in the TF P-47 Razorback! Enjoy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAL-CO6yiZo