altavillan

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RTk took some heat readings on my 115 sat. after first flight of the day. 270 front 310 rear. My baffle is just a seal across the front of the cowl opening and close around the front of the engine, nothing more. I'm running the new carb with a A.I. snorkel, KS cans on short 7"+-(Question for Dick H. next post) headers, tube off the diaphram is 1"long silicone hose to a piece of brass tubing with the end crimped almost closed. First flight of the day it takes the engine about 3 to 4 minutes of flying or one minute of huvering<----(Ask SS) to warm the engine till all hesitations go away. The engine wants to be lean on the low. As you run it you will set it lower and lower. And it wants to run hot. Not hot on the high side but hot. The carb does not like long tubes off the diaphram. Mines in a Katana with small cowl openings up front and large exit area. About 40+ perfect flights on it now. And still tuning, have a little more to go leaning the low and not at full advance on the ignition yet prob. running 24 degrees on CH. Opti2 syn oil. http://www.opti2-4.com/

altavillan

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Question for Dick H. If one header is shorter than the other. So that the exhaust comes out evan, in a down line will one cylinder act like a jake brake and the other act like a supercharger?

RTK

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FreedomFlier--I personally would dump the top half of the baffling, (upper piece) when I added that it made "my" engine temps soar and sloppied up my mid range. My first design was just the bottom half and it worked better than anything I tried. I never should have changed. I warned everyone "not" to baffle up to the cowl on both top and bottom. All my pics are in the WH forum along with comments.
Currently I am running no baffles (experimenting) but I had to box the original carb to stop air flow over the venturi which made my engine bog in KE and quick AOA changes. With the new carb the box is to low so I am back to the KE bog. I am going to try one of those snorkel things.
I tend to think your problem is air flow related. When I flew this weekend (removed/added parts) the needles acted completely different, one time the were ultra sensitive the next you could twist them with little response all by changing the air flow around and below the carb.

RTK

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altavillan--One time you had a little larger spread But your engine runs great and pulls well, a little too quiet though

altavillan

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Neighbor "lady" has a tendency to run over loud planes and their owners ,ask SS

AmpAce

Sounds like a real intriguing story there! How about it Silver Surfer-------?

AmpAce


"Neighbor "lady" has a tendency to run over loud planes and their owners ,ask SS "

RTK

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It's a doosy, don't know if his lawyer will let him talk about it in public yet

Tired Old Man

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The case was settled out of court two years ago. She dropped the case against me. I had to promise not to kill her if she ever did it again.

Seriously, I've told the story in print in the AMA forum once. Takes forever to present all the background and later facts and actions. Let's just say a neighbor to a field got out of control, ran over a plane or two with her pick up, caused great bodily harm to the land owner, again with her pick up, and later sued me because I told her she'd die if she moved a muscle. She elected to drop the suit after a few (read as several years of) legal discussions. The neighbor is very quiet these days.

Altavillian still tinks of a certain maneuver as a vacuum cleaner not something a helicopter would do

Pontiac_40

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Freedomflier, try running the fuel tubing from the diaphram to inside your fuse to stabalize the pressure changes. It has worked in some cases. Let us know the results

Tired Old Man

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V-2 Carb Throttle Lever Important service note.

If this has been covered already, my apologies, but it's worth going over again.

For those that have received the 115 with the upgraded carb that has the long throttle lever on it, take a note. This lever can be removed and rotaed to be in either an "up" or a "down" position. Whichever you choose, and even if you choose to leave it as it came from BME, remove the lever retaining screw and add some Locktite to the threads to secure it. As it sits it can vibrate loose leaving the operator with a bit of a dillema in flight. You'll either have to shut the engine down in flight in one manner or another or fly out the tank at the last throttle setting. Hopefully it's above idle.

Easy to do, just be certain to do it.

RTK

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Good reason to use a CHOKE servo SS

Tired Old Man

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Better to have the assembly correct when it leaves the factory. There's no reason for this and the loose prop shaft that came with my engine. Dammit man, they've had plenty of time to figure out how to do it right, and a simple checklist for assembly items is all it takes to cover all the bases. Duh!

If you're not going to check your work then provide a note telling the customer that they'll have to do it instead. Or have I missed something here?

rmh

OK - a bit of humor?
maybe a Bone E Fied Ex Spurt can run tests to see wha happens and to include some blah blah figures--
short story:
the total length of each system is for a given rpm OR- tone (jes like a trombone -really.)
if one side is tuned to be spot on at x cycles per second --and the other is at x+ 500 cycles per second -- it doesn't take much figgerin to see that one is in "PHASE -while the other is not - and can change places as to which is best --as rpms change .
calling one a brake and the other a supercharger --is not really descriptive enough.
What really helps is simply trying,recording various setups to see which one matches your needs
One more thing
tho the displacement of the cylinders may be the same ---- the ability of each side to breath may be different --
nasty that --
in theory - it may prove helpful to slightly mismatch pipes -- this can -(really) change temperature as one cyclider runs hotter whilst producing more power --then less as it goes up in smoke.
that is an ugly way of trying to fix the problem
The MVVS /Evolution 116-- has a pretty fancy crankcase shape --intended to balance the flow and it seems to really work ., At least the setup I have run is well balanced
When it is all said n done - you should try to balance temps in the cylinders - this will -more or less -balance the work performed by each cylinder .
Mt 160 Super runs very close to same temps -the little poke in n read meters show -about 5 degrees difference - The engine is well baffled to force flow thru the fins -including rear of the fins (backside of cylinder) - thre are lots of ways to do this -just cobble up something that makes inlet flow travel thru the fins . On the old in line Tigre - we lowered the compression on th hot running cylinder - but it was all a POS anyway -wretched design.

RTK

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On the prop shaft, I believe you mean stud?? In the manual it says to either use silicon or lock-tite it at a specific length in relation to the prop hub thickness. No mention of checking the throttle arm, but I usually lock-tite everything that I feel needs to be anyway.
Remember we are flying large gassers

RTK

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How hard can this be on an engine Dick??
I would assume cylinder temps and pressures could vary wildly.

rmh

I wasn't through --I write a short intro -then fix and complete -to avoid the friggen " your mesage is too fug--long and has timed out blah blahh blah

AmpAce

HMMMMM-----Maybe I don't want to buy one of these things after all! Difficult tuning, poor assembly, etc. Loose prop shaft and possibility of throttle lever coming adrift, makes one wonder what else might fall off this thing, once a fire is stoked in it?

Trouble is, it seems to be about the only engine that fits my now-under-construction Cub the way I want, and will also turn a scale sized bush plane climb prop. The prop needs to be 28", and I have about 10 5/8" width in the cowl, plug cap to plug cap, and about 5 1/2" from firewall to prop drive plate.

AmpAce

RTK

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Thanks for the in-sight Dick

AmpAce-- They are not more or less difficult to tune than any other engine out there with the new carb. The center stud is made to be screwed in and out. Silversurfer must be having a bad day (burr under the saddle or something), I know he did not receive a manual, but he has played enough with these engines to not need one. They are available on the web site too.

Tired Old Man

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To the contrary, I'm having a good day, and the 115 is a good engine.

The prop stud was not an issue, but a bit of a surprise. Since so many props have different thickness hubs I don't see where there was a point in leaving the prop stud loose. Just leave it long. Since the addition of the new throttle lever I can see that it might be left loose or not solidly secured in the event that the user wants to reverse the throttle lever. But you could still warn a guy. That was the reason for the post covering the subject.

On to manuals. You're quite right, I don't need one, but others may. This is an area that needs to be addressed with a note in each box telling the consumer that manuals are available online at BME. If they purchase an engine from a location other than the BME site they may not be aware of this. That takes us back to the carb lever post. Many may not have been aware of the change in throttle arm or the ability to change it's position by removing a screw.

For those that are considering rotating the nipple on the front of the diaphragm cover, DON'T unless you have a spare cover. You'll probably tear it up in the process.

AmpAce

Thanks for the info, guys! I had read in the manual about the prop stud being left loose, and the need to seal it. I had not seen anything about the throttle arm, either it's adjustability, or possibility of it loosening.

Silversurfer, I do appreciate the tip about the arm , and will remember that when I get my engine. Guess maybe I'll be buying one after all!

AmpAce

altavillan

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His 115 has been collecting dust for a while now. probably lost the instructions Use red loctite on the bolt.
If you run a Cf spinner use a 8x1.25 plug and not the bolt, save some weight. Silicone that one in. Or order a 3" titanium stud from YOYOdine. $11.00

altavillan

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Dick H. Totaly having fun but it would be great to know if a mismatched header gave more downline breaking. Evan better to know if it will explode yer motor.

Tired Old Man

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I do believe he provided the reason for your cylinder temperature disparity. I think the was something in there about "goes up in smoke" though....

You and RTK can come over anytime you want and finish that Yak for me[8D] I'm taking a break from making plugs for composite brackets at the moment

krayzc-RCU

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is there a place to see the 115 manual on line if so send me that link tks

gc

altavillan

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Better yet I'll come pick it up and do a review for ya