Tower Hobbies Uproar 40 build
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WOW! I guess I never realised just how tight that tank compertment was going to be! I like it! yeah I wish they still made the epoxy paint myself! it was very glossy! You do very good work RICKSTUBBZ! I am really looking forward to the dinished result now! I would assume you are too by now?
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#253
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ricky,the support at towerhobbies and all the 3d pilots at my club said the thrust angles for the uproar are 0-down and 0-right.
i fly it this way and its great!!!!!!!!!! but on another thread someone asked about thrust angles...a reply to my saying i have several models this way and use rudder on take offs suggested i add thrust angles.....don't do it.
the up roar with wot takes off in 20ft or less and climbs out straight up with no other control problems and using rudder on takeoffs is common for even birds that have built in thrust angles like the gp rv-4 40 i'm building now.
i think with how your building these 3 you already knew all this so please excuse my suggestion.
your uproar bud,stu
i fly it this way and its great!!!!!!!!!! but on another thread someone asked about thrust angles...a reply to my saying i have several models this way and use rudder on take offs suggested i add thrust angles.....don't do it.
the up roar with wot takes off in 20ft or less and climbs out straight up with no other control problems and using rudder on takeoffs is common for even birds that have built in thrust angles like the gp rv-4 40 i'm building now.
i think with how your building these 3 you already knew all this so please excuse my suggestion.
your uproar bud,stu
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Cliff,
Man, I can’t tell you how glad I will be to see the end of this project. Thought I’d be finishing up about now and I still have a way to go. I am at that stage where I have to drag myself in there to work on them[&o]. Not to mention I have the typical pile of crap that needs to be done that has nothing to do with RC airplanes. Maybe once I get some covering on this - one, it will help with motivation. That’s what I am hoping.
gunneredwards,
Is the engine centered? If by that you are referring to the location of the crankshaft - it is in the middle of the firewall which is the same place the kit plans call out. Best I remember anyhow. I have slept more than once since I drilled the firewalls[sm=72_72.gif]. I think I posted some of that back when.
Thrust angle, as I have mentioned before, these are being built with 0° thrust angles. Once they are flown if they need some adjustments I will shim up the motor mounts to get what the plane wants.
I am not completely sure that I follow your question
How I interpret it, everything is strait, (like the dude from “The Men’s Warehouse say’s) I guarantee it
.
Man, I can’t tell you how glad I will be to see the end of this project. Thought I’d be finishing up about now and I still have a way to go. I am at that stage where I have to drag myself in there to work on them[&o]. Not to mention I have the typical pile of crap that needs to be done that has nothing to do with RC airplanes. Maybe once I get some covering on this - one, it will help with motivation. That’s what I am hoping.
gunneredwards,
Is the engine centered? If by that you are referring to the location of the crankshaft - it is in the middle of the firewall which is the same place the kit plans call out. Best I remember anyhow. I have slept more than once since I drilled the firewalls[sm=72_72.gif]. I think I posted some of that back when.
Thrust angle, as I have mentioned before, these are being built with 0° thrust angles. Once they are flown if they need some adjustments I will shim up the motor mounts to get what the plane wants.
I am not completely sure that I follow your question
sure everything will be straight like that?
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#255
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Stu, tobydogs,
I am on your page when it comes to the thrust angles on this bird. I can confidently say I am versed with a rudder getting tail draggers on and off the ground. My “Smith Miniplane” taught me very well.
I expect to follow up with post having to do with trimming these things when I get there. But my basis for thrust angle will come from in flight test.
Right thrust will be determined on a no wind day - Airplane at cruising speed pull up to a vertical up line (these will have enough power to climb to the moon) If the plane pulls left in the vertical up line I’ll add a little right thrust.
Down or Up thrust. Yep, sometimes a little up trust is needed in a plane like this. Has to do with symmetrical airfoils and incidence. I’ll leave those details alone. But to address the need of one or the other will come from a combination of test. One is the vertical up line mentioned above as well as how does the plane react to throttle change. These will be (at least the one I fly) set up to fly strait and level at a cruising speed somewhere near half throttle. Add more throttle the plane should start to climb a little, cut the throttle and it should start to descend.
That is a short and sweet explanation of what I will do. A few details are left out here and there. The other option is build them at 0° and go for it and enjoy. For me it is all about learning how to truly trim one out and get more experience for projects to come. There is a lot of information out there on trimming airplanes that is very helpful. Even though it is written by people who compete in pattern and/or IMAC the stuff is good even for us sport pilots and our sport planes.
This is turning into a book but here is a short story on my “wild stik” which is nothing but a bigger version of these. Originally the thing was a pain to land. When I came in on final it would actually try to climb. If I changed the down trim it would land all right. So, I put it in the air flat and level cruising about 3/4 throttle, instantly cut the throttle and the plane would initially climb. I added up thrust less than 1° as I remember, re-trimmed for level flight and everything was better. When cutting the throttle as mentioned here the plane should initially fly level and start to descend as the airspeed bleeds off. Ok, I’m off the soap box now[8D].
Later
I am on your page when it comes to the thrust angles on this bird. I can confidently say I am versed with a rudder getting tail draggers on and off the ground. My “Smith Miniplane” taught me very well.
I expect to follow up with post having to do with trimming these things when I get there. But my basis for thrust angle will come from in flight test.
Right thrust will be determined on a no wind day - Airplane at cruising speed pull up to a vertical up line (these will have enough power to climb to the moon) If the plane pulls left in the vertical up line I’ll add a little right thrust.
Down or Up thrust. Yep, sometimes a little up trust is needed in a plane like this. Has to do with symmetrical airfoils and incidence. I’ll leave those details alone. But to address the need of one or the other will come from a combination of test. One is the vertical up line mentioned above as well as how does the plane react to throttle change. These will be (at least the one I fly) set up to fly strait and level at a cruising speed somewhere near half throttle. Add more throttle the plane should start to climb a little, cut the throttle and it should start to descend.
That is a short and sweet explanation of what I will do. A few details are left out here and there. The other option is build them at 0° and go for it and enjoy. For me it is all about learning how to truly trim one out and get more experience for projects to come. There is a lot of information out there on trimming airplanes that is very helpful. Even though it is written by people who compete in pattern and/or IMAC the stuff is good even for us sport pilots and our sport planes.
This is turning into a book but here is a short story on my “wild stik” which is nothing but a bigger version of these. Originally the thing was a pain to land. When I came in on final it would actually try to climb. If I changed the down trim it would land all right. So, I put it in the air flat and level cruising about 3/4 throttle, instantly cut the throttle and the plane would initially climb. I added up thrust less than 1° as I remember, re-trimmed for level flight and everything was better. When cutting the throttle as mentioned here the plane should initially fly level and start to descend as the airspeed bleeds off. Ok, I’m off the soap box now[8D].
Later
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Apricate that... I have the dazzler, but don't remember putting any down angle or right thrust into it, I thought the kit sides had that calculated into the build, but it has been over a year since i had the plans out.
dan
dan
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Dan,
If you have a picture of your Dazzler that you'd like to post for the thread, feel free. Once we get enough pictures of other planes and the new ones being built maybe I'll do another post with updated pictures like I did a few pages back with everyones planes in one post.
I can't speak specifically for the Dazzler, but the Uproar fuselage sides don't have any thrust built into them. I have not specifically checked the down thrust but I am sure it is zero. I'll have to lay a square on the plans this evening just so I know for sure what it is.
If you have a picture of your Dazzler that you'd like to post for the thread, feel free. Once we get enough pictures of other planes and the new ones being built maybe I'll do another post with updated pictures like I did a few pages back with everyones planes in one post.
I can't speak specifically for the Dazzler, but the Uproar fuselage sides don't have any thrust built into them. I have not specifically checked the down thrust but I am sure it is zero. I'll have to lay a square on the plans this evening just so I know for sure what it is.
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I just noticed that Tower is listing the Dazzler kit as discontinued.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJ591&P=0
Bummer.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJ591&P=0
Bummer.
#260
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ORIGINAL: gunneredwards
I would like to post pictures, but cant figure out how to attach it to the thread...
dan
I would like to post pictures, but cant figure out how to attach it to the thread...
dan
On the top right of this post (any post actually) click reply...
When the new window opens look at the bottom of the box you type in, you'll see "Click here to upload images and files". Click on it.
A new, small, window pops up that allows you to select pictures from your hard drive to post. Once you have selected all your pictures to upload click on the OK button and wait for the uplaod succesful sign (or whatever it is that comes up) to appear. Click on that the window goes away and finish typing your post in the normal way.
#261
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I just noticed that Tower is listing the Dazzler kit as discontinued.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJ591&P=0
Bummer.
I just noticed that Tower is listing the Dazzler kit as discontinued.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJ591&P=0
Bummer.
Even the Uproar is shown out of stock with a late April delivery.
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Rick,
I know what you mean by having to drag yourself in to work on a plane! I have been doing the same thing with the Cub I am working on. I will sure be glad to see that project complete! It's funny though that I cannot wait to start on my Roar. Why is it that I have to drag myself out to work on one plane but cannot wait to start on another??
I know what you mean by having to drag yourself in to work on a plane! I have been doing the same thing with the Cub I am working on. I will sure be glad to see that project complete! It's funny though that I cannot wait to start on my Roar. Why is it that I have to drag myself out to work on one plane but cannot wait to start on another??
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tsircy, if you find the answer to that question, please do share!
gunneredwards, Dan, is that Dazzler still flying?
While browsing around on RCU I stumbled across a reference to some 12X4 three blade props from Evolution sold at Horizon. I think I saw some of your names on that thread too. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=EVOE0610P If I can figure out how to buy one without spending more on shipping than the price of the prop, maybe I’ll give it a try. Maybe they sell something else I can use?
Last night I finished up the rib cap strips on the other side of my wing. I also played around with rudder and throttle servo location and trying to figure out how and where to locate battery and receiver. Had to remove the center brace I put on the bottom hatch because it was in the way of getting the servo in. I even thought about that when I glued the brace in! Man, I hate it when that happens! [:@]Also ran the throttle linkage/wire. Have a couple of pictures on how that went. But, I’ll have to post them later.
gunneredwards, Dan, is that Dazzler still flying?
While browsing around on RCU I stumbled across a reference to some 12X4 three blade props from Evolution sold at Horizon. I think I saw some of your names on that thread too. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=EVOE0610P If I can figure out how to buy one without spending more on shipping than the price of the prop, maybe I’ll give it a try. Maybe they sell something else I can use?
Last night I finished up the rib cap strips on the other side of my wing. I also played around with rudder and throttle servo location and trying to figure out how and where to locate battery and receiver. Had to remove the center brace I put on the bottom hatch because it was in the way of getting the servo in. I even thought about that when I glued the brace in! Man, I hate it when that happens! [:@]Also ran the throttle linkage/wire. Have a couple of pictures on how that went. But, I’ll have to post them later.
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You bet its still flying... this is the one plane i have never crashed and the one plane that was cheap enough that i didnt care. It just fies so nice and is so manuverable that it is vertually impossible to crash. The way this plane flies, i would recommend it for an aerobatic trainer. I did catch some windshear off the end of the runway and scuffed the monocote on the right wing tip , but it has over 100 flights on it.
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LOL I too am currently build an eternal Cub as I call it... it is a Goldberg Cub and I am really building mostly to sell. I am sure I will enjoy putt putting around with it for awhile though but like you guys, I have had to force myself to stay on it and make progress. I still have one project on it that I am dreading, trying to trim the Fiberglass cowl to go around the Saito .80 twin and look ok after my hacking. I have came to the conclusion there is no way to do it without making it 2 pieces![:@] oh well... I am going to cover it in Olive Drab and Dove gray on bottom and invasion stripes and it is pretty much ready to cover now. I still need to get to my LHS for the Trimkote bottle to adhere my trim better on UproarII, I am seriously considering an electric like Tobydogs and a twin Uproar and a Giant scale one sounds great to me too!!! RICK dont get discouraged! you are after all at least building Uproars! you know they will be insanely fun too! Gunner that is a sweet looking Dazzler! RICK I am no expert at flight trimming by any means but one thing about the Uproars to me the short fuselage might work against us a bit on vertical stability, both my Uproars seem to track pretty well but not like say my Kaos 40, I love doing stall turns with the Uproar and I have to keep on the rudder sometimes to keep it semi straight in vertical, I will be very interested in how your birds fly with the extra power! I love doing a touch and go then pull vertical doing barrel rolls then kick it over in a stall turn that fat wing makes it slow down so sweet!
Gunner you are right about it being a fantastic Aerobatic trainer! very forgiving on low rates for sure, I find the stock gear sort of splayes out a but it is easy to bend back for more ground clearance, yeah I had to re monokote my wing tips on UproarI for sure!
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hey there gunner,very nice picture of the dazzler.and a nice covering!!
ricky,i can't wait till the snow thaws so i can do the flight tests you discribed.a young pilot at the club meeting was telling me to do the same things you discribed.theres also other ways ,so i'm looking foward to letting the experienced pilots teach me the moves and learn the easy way.....thats before wrecking any birds...lol....which is the hard way!
ricky,i can't wait till the snow thaws so i can do the flight tests you discribed.a young pilot at the club meeting was telling me to do the same things you discribed.theres also other ways ,so i'm looking foward to letting the experienced pilots teach me the moves and learn the easy way.....thats before wrecking any birds...lol....which is the hard way!
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Here are the shots of the throttle linkage I mentioned this morning. I am using (picture 1) the Sullivan .025” thick solid wire with the outside sleeve. The sleeve is about .062” outside diameter. Carefully drilled a 1/16” hole by hand making sure it is below the fuel tank (picture 2) then slid the outer tubing in - working with it till it made it to the servo compartment. Minus connectors here is (picture 3) where it all lines up with the servo. After gluing with medium CA I cut the outer tube flush with the fuse bottom and (picture 4) this is how it’ll look minus the connectors on the engine side.
After posting this I am off into the net to buy some batteries.
After posting this I am off into the net to buy some batteries.
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ORIGINAL: RICKSTUBBZ
Here are the shots of the throttle linkage I mentioned this morning. I am using (picture 1) the Sullivan .025” thick solid wire with the outside sleeve. The sleeve is about .062” outside diameter. Carefully drilled a 1/16” hole by hand making sure it is below the fuel tank (picture 2) then slid the outer tubing in - working with it till it made it to the servo compartment. Minus connectors here is (picture 3) where it all lines up with the servo. After gluing with medium CA I cut the outer tube flush with the fuse bottom and (picture 4) this is how it’ll look minus the connectors on the engine side.
After posting this I am off into the net to buy some batteries.
Here are the shots of the throttle linkage I mentioned this morning. I am using (picture 1) the Sullivan .025” thick solid wire with the outside sleeve. The sleeve is about .062” outside diameter. Carefully drilled a 1/16” hole by hand making sure it is below the fuel tank (picture 2) then slid the outer tubing in - working with it till it made it to the servo compartment. Minus connectors here is (picture 3) where it all lines up with the servo. After gluing with medium CA I cut the outer tube flush with the fuse bottom and (picture 4) this is how it’ll look minus the connectors on the engine side.
After posting this I am off into the net to buy some batteries.
This is the pack, at it's current price:
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/233838.asp
I am getting close to taking the plunge into LiFe RX packs. I like the idea of safely recharging in 15 minutes.
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I am getting close to taking the plunge into LiFe RX packs. I like the idea of safely recharging in 15 minutes.
I am getting close to taking the plunge into LiFe RX packs. I like the idea of safely recharging in 15 minutes.
Thanks for the tip.
I am giving this place a try. Prices are excellent. http://www.all-battery.com/48vairplanebatterypacks.aspx
They have about every battery under the sun. Including some of the LiFe packs. http://www.all-battery.com/lifereceiverpack.aspx
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Rick and mclina,
For what it's worth, I get my batteries from a guy on ebay. You can buy 4X 4.8V 2500 mAh NiMH for $23.35 plus shipping. I just bought some last week and he has quick shipping! http://cgi.ebay.com/4-RC-4-8V-2500mA...item2eab212b10
They are great batteries. They are shipped almost fully charged.
For what it's worth, I get my batteries from a guy on ebay. You can buy 4X 4.8V 2500 mAh NiMH for $23.35 plus shipping. I just bought some last week and he has quick shipping! http://cgi.ebay.com/4-RC-4-8V-2500mA...item2eab212b10
They are great batteries. They are shipped almost fully charged.
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hey guys ,have any of you heard the 4v isn't really good to go with 2.4 do to "brownouts"on the signals ? some 2.4 rx will lockout at signal weakness do to servos drawing to much on the 4.8sand voltage drops at diff .time as we push our sevos and the lockout might only last 1 or 2 seconds,but for me that equales disaster........how did i come to hear this ???all my rx's are 4.8 in my 40 and 60size birds and the club members i fly with told me this lil tibet of news.
iv bought 1 6v to put in a larger hog bipe and make sure your 4.8 are fully charged.i check them with a wattup meter just to be sure.
i don't know about you guys but $21 bucks a batery is goin to hurt my wallet now..lol.....i'll just keep a close watch on those 4.8's.
so if ya happen upon those sales again ...please let us all know.thanks,stu
iv bought 1 6v to put in a larger hog bipe and make sure your 4.8 are fully charged.i check them with a wattup meter just to be sure.
i don't know about you guys but $21 bucks a batery is goin to hurt my wallet now..lol.....i'll just keep a close watch on those 4.8's.
so if ya happen upon those sales again ...please let us all know.thanks,stu
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Tobydogs,
I haven't heard anything about those problems yet, but then again most people I fly with are still using FM. I agree $21 bucks for a battery don't hurt the wallet too bad. But what if you could get 3 batteries for about that price? That guy on ebay also has the 6V batteries (3 for about $25).
Maybe one day, I will dig deep and get on the 2.4 bandwagon. But for now, I just can't do it.
I haven't heard anything about those problems yet, but then again most people I fly with are still using FM. I agree $21 bucks for a battery don't hurt the wallet too bad. But what if you could get 3 batteries for about that price? That guy on ebay also has the 6V batteries (3 for about $25).
Maybe one day, I will dig deep and get on the 2.4 bandwagon. But for now, I just can't do it.
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i just went to the allbattery site,almost hit the pay now button..arrrrrggggg!gotta curb my spending if i hope to finnish my gp rv-4 40
now i'll check out that ebay site....what always gets me is the shipping ,cost at allbatery was $10[9.95].
i'm like you tsircy,i use the hitec optic 6 with the spectrum moduel in the back. everything was 72,but i bought a hobbycity "assan"2.4 moduel with 2 rx's.works fantastic and i just p/u 6 more rx's to out fit a few of my smaller birds.these are only 6 channels but are more than enough.
well ,its off to ebay to check out those 6volt batts,thanks for the tip.
your friend at the uproar thread,stu
now i'll check out that ebay site....what always gets me is the shipping ,cost at allbatery was $10[9.95].
i'm like you tsircy,i use the hitec optic 6 with the spectrum moduel in the back. everything was 72,but i bought a hobbycity "assan"2.4 moduel with 2 rx's.works fantastic and i just p/u 6 more rx's to out fit a few of my smaller birds.these are only 6 channels but are more than enough.
well ,its off to ebay to check out those 6volt batts,thanks for the tip.
your friend at the uproar thread,stu