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HAY,HAY! I know Ya'll misted me. LOL... I hate to ask this in afraid of being (FLOGED) BUT! No one on the DLE site knows? Yesterday l was flying my DLE20RA and it spit the spark plug out? striped out the head and wonder if l removed the head and took it to a small engine shop if it could be drilled out and (HOPE I SPELLED THIS RIGHT) heley-coiled? What Ya'll think? l got it from Tower Hobbies a little over two years ago and it has a two year warranty! and no one knows who repairs DLE. Tower shows a head in stock for almost $70:00.
If it were me, I would send it to Clarence Lee. I think he uses inserts.
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Welcome Bub, I just lucked into a new and unrun .50 from the black and gold box days. I should have it Monday. It's a plain Jane but that's OK with me. I'll have to lose the choke and mount a velocity stack. Barry, (BLW) can fix you up with a Club Saito number and make it official.
Dave can i see a photo of the 50 before you do anything,i'd like to have a closer look at the choke arrangement and just to please barry i'll try and look at the carb from an af instead of metric perspective.
Welcome bub.
ps if you get a number and make it official you are supposed to behave yourself
Welcome bub.
ps if you get a number and make it official you are supposed to behave yourself
MAN, Frist day of daylight savings time (BLOWS)!! On my DLE20RA that blew the spark plug out, Tower Hobbies has a place in Champain IL that is repairing there stuff, lots of stuff! Called, Hobby Services. If you have one of thows motors (DLE) pull the stock plug out and replace it with a NGK CM6 plug. the stock plug is smaller than the CM6! There going to repair it under warranty.
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A truism, when a wing parts company from the fuselage, the wing takes a lot longer to reach the ground. Thus it allows you time to ponder on what has happened.
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It's like the choke on an Enya where you pull the carb barrel out to the right to choke it, in one single flip it chokes way too much. I'm going to round up a Bolly 11.5x6 for the .50 break in.
Dave that sounds similar to the chocking method on the saito fg57 twin where the throttle barrel is fully closed and you pull it sideways with a small threaded rod and flip the prop.On the fg57 you need about ten flips and then release the rod,after that you flip the prop about ten more times to distribute gas evenly to the cylinders.The fun part is turning the ignition on because it always starts first pop.Did i mention how good it sounds on shotgun exhausts ? i can't have but the neighbours do
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I just finished running the new .50 for 55 minutes.
NIB Saito .50 with G stamped on the right lug.
Plug McCoy/Saito, came with the engine
Fuel==WildCat 10% 2/4 18% full synthetic.
Prop==Bolly 11.5x6
Exhaust==Newer cast muffler, it came equipped with the older, long skinny muffler.
12 minutes@ 4,000 throttle just above idle
10 minutes@ 5,000
10 minutes@ 6,000
10 minutes@ 7,000
5 minutes@ 7,500, then set LS needle for 2,200 rpm idle
Full throttle for 5 full minutes,
Max rpm 10,150 slightly unsteady
Max rpm one click rich, 10.050
It has a nice clean midrange. This one had the black grease on the rod, it even had a finger print in the center of the rod.
As you can see I didn't come close to burning 16 oz of fuel in 55 minutes much of it pretty rich.
NIB Saito .50 with G stamped on the right lug.
Plug McCoy/Saito, came with the engine
Fuel==WildCat 10% 2/4 18% full synthetic.
Prop==Bolly 11.5x6
Exhaust==Newer cast muffler, it came equipped with the older, long skinny muffler.
12 minutes@ 4,000 throttle just above idle
10 minutes@ 5,000
10 minutes@ 6,000
10 minutes@ 7,000
5 minutes@ 7,500, then set LS needle for 2,200 rpm idle
Full throttle for 5 full minutes,
Max rpm 10,150 slightly unsteady
Max rpm one click rich, 10.050
It has a nice clean midrange. This one had the black grease on the rod, it even had a finger print in the center of the rod.
As you can see I didn't come close to burning 16 oz of fuel in 55 minutes much of it pretty rich.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 11-03-2014 at 01:18 PM.
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I have had 2 x50's, the first one was stolen and I still have the second, It was my first Saito and is one of the best for use in SAM events. There are some that could be considered better but this engine handles such a wide range of props and fuels and in my experience just doesn't give up no matter what.
Old Fart it was a China Clipper I was contemplating buying (maybe / sort off) and the wing parted the fuse in the turn (under power, (OS 37 heli "slightly worked). Finger trouble on assembly at the field methinks)
On chokes, I generally take them off at installation, nothing more embarrassing than having the noise stop in a power climb.
Bolly props are good especially the carbon ones, I have a couple of those 11's that are used to great effect and guarded by attack dogs
Old Fart it was a China Clipper I was contemplating buying (maybe / sort off) and the wing parted the fuse in the turn (under power, (OS 37 heli "slightly worked). Finger trouble on assembly at the field methinks)
On chokes, I generally take them off at installation, nothing more embarrassing than having the noise stop in a power climb.
Bolly props are good especially the carbon ones, I have a couple of those 11's that are used to great effect and guarded by attack dogs
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Here we go again! Throw Helicoils out the door and use TimeSerts. They even make the 1/4-32 pitch of our glow plugs. A bit more work and you need the proper installation kit, but once done will NEVER be a problem again.
We use Helicoils in some mil manufacturing we do, but these are very rarely disassembled and intended for water ops so temp is not really an issue.
I find when Helicoils were used for spark plug repair several factors contributed to them underperforming or falling out, (or IN!).
The thermal and physical stresses in that app seemed to allow microscopic movement between the coils and alloy base metal. This would eventually mean the coils no longer fit adequately and could come out with the plug. Worse case had them thread into the head when the new plug was reinstalled. Even partially this would cause all sorts of problems and may not have been noticed as the plug was inserted. At least if they fell in you were absolutely sure the head needed to come off.
I've pulled the chokes off the early motors that had them and found the same starting method works best for all of them. At least 10% throttle opening or it will not draw enough fuel. Basically works out to just above idle anyway.
We use Helicoils in some mil manufacturing we do, but these are very rarely disassembled and intended for water ops so temp is not really an issue.
I find when Helicoils were used for spark plug repair several factors contributed to them underperforming or falling out, (or IN!).
The thermal and physical stresses in that app seemed to allow microscopic movement between the coils and alloy base metal. This would eventually mean the coils no longer fit adequately and could come out with the plug. Worse case had them thread into the head when the new plug was reinstalled. Even partially this would cause all sorts of problems and may not have been noticed as the plug was inserted. At least if they fell in you were absolutely sure the head needed to come off.
I've pulled the chokes off the early motors that had them and found the same starting method works best for all of them. At least 10% throttle opening or it will not draw enough fuel. Basically works out to just above idle anyway.
Cougar do you run a 1/4 x 32 die nut over your new plugs before fitting a new one to the engine.I've got a spare card of ss hanger9 and a heap of new os f plugs.Since i'm about to move while i had them out of the cupboard i unpacked a few and ran a die nut over all of them because you could see a little bit of the coil wire sticking out sideways at the base of the plug on a couple.It's an easy way to damage the threads in the head bro (as they say in kiwi)
Dave i've never run bolly props it's easier to run apc's so i don't know how much load the bollies apply but you must be happy with the rpm.And as a joke...i wanna know who left that fingerprint on the rod! plus i like the look of the older mufflers more than the new cast one's..although they ain't half as ugly as the os mufflers..i don't know what they were smoking when they came up with that design,any suggestions ?
Trev it sounds like you really like the 50's and a top decade to be born in toonow i'm starting to sympathise with your own recent big move.Been here 15yrs and forgot what it takes to do it.Sucks begins to sum it up,got bugger all done keep finding stuff i'd lost and then taking my time being surprised about it and thinking back to the last time i bought another one because i did'nt know i had this one.See what i mean..?? it can do your head in mate.
ps if you run a 1/4x32 die nut over your new glow plugs should you use compressed air,say,5psi to blow the metal shavings back out of the glow plug cavity and can you just blow in there yourself?? i mean if a little bit of spittle goes in there would it corrode the glow filament over time and render the coil unreliable or even totally shag it? and what if there's some beer mixed with the spittle ? would that be a corrosive mix
Dave i've never run bolly props it's easier to run apc's so i don't know how much load the bollies apply but you must be happy with the rpm.And as a joke...i wanna know who left that fingerprint on the rod! plus i like the look of the older mufflers more than the new cast one's..although they ain't half as ugly as the os mufflers..i don't know what they were smoking when they came up with that design,any suggestions ?
Trev it sounds like you really like the 50's and a top decade to be born in toonow i'm starting to sympathise with your own recent big move.Been here 15yrs and forgot what it takes to do it.Sucks begins to sum it up,got bugger all done keep finding stuff i'd lost and then taking my time being surprised about it and thinking back to the last time i bought another one because i did'nt know i had this one.See what i mean..?? it can do your head in mate.
ps if you run a 1/4x32 die nut over your new glow plugs should you use compressed air,say,5psi to blow the metal shavings back out of the glow plug cavity and can you just blow in there yourself?? i mean if a little bit of spittle goes in there would it corrode the glow filament over time and render the coil unreliable or even totally shag it? and what if there's some beer mixed with the spittle ? would that be a corrosive mix
Last edited by Rudolph Hart; 11-04-2014 at 02:31 AM. Reason: Thought i would but then i did'nt:)
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You folks brought up one reason I like Fox Miracle plugs, they have rolled threads, no sharp edges, and they have more threads than an OS-f. The Taipan plugs have a smooth quality feel when installing them, as do the Glo-Devil 4c Specials.You Australian's make good quality products. Dar Zeelon still has a few Bolly's I may talk him out of. Fiery has sent me a few also doin some horse tradin.
Bullpoo davea gearhead like you would welcome the opportunity to hand roll your own glow plug threads with a die nut any day buddy..and thanks for the kudo's re australia,did i mention we fly way better than you guys too!
I stock piled Fox plugs, good thing too, TH has been out of them for a while now. I was at a swap meet in September and found a guy with a dozen of them @$4 a pop. Snagged them all.
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Old Fart, the best and only good thing about the move modelling wise was the fact that I found so much stuff I forgot I had. I moved back into the "bosom" of my old modelling buddies who promptly sought to help out my storage problems by relieving me of stuff they "thought" they needed and I didn't. I mean to say what is so special about rebuild kits for open rocker OS and Saito engines. Nelson and Tiger Paw pipes aren't that special, are they? Other good side is you get to set up your new shed "just the way you think you want it to be" Don't forget to make a place for the guard dog's kennel.
On Bolly props, you can still get them direct from Bolly but only in bulk order form. Usually 100 at a time. There are several agents in the US, check the website. I am currently considering Xoar props (I have some wood ones). I like the look of their carbon ones and will investigate further when time permits.
On Bolly props, you can still get them direct from Bolly but only in bulk order form. Usually 100 at a time. There are several agents in the US, check the website. I am currently considering Xoar props (I have some wood ones). I like the look of their carbon ones and will investigate further when time permits.
Gidday trev just finished moving all my aeroplanes and engines plus the usual other stuff into what looked like a good sized shed a few days ago.I've got a bit of a dilemma.Over the years quite a few mates and engines have been run in on beer and nitro here,they've been good times for all but i've found a saito fa125 in a drawer and i know for a fact it ain't mine,so i might have to ask around discreetly and see if anyone has lost one.I won't be sorry to see the back end of the nextdoor neighbour and his black dobermann that always looks like it's chewin a bee.The new neighbours look friendly but they don't know me yetand we are having a bbq this sunday so i'll leave the castrol r in the shed.Last year when i was full of beery cheers i put some on the next door neighbours bbq plate,smelled awesome but he did'nt forgive me for a while and his wife was giving me some really dark looks.And now for the bad news,i think the new neighbours on one side are kiwi's
I've run some of my saito's on wooden props (i've got a nice wood 23x10 menz prop on the fg57) and don't mind them just need to watch the cg if you are close to the rear limit.One of my 82 powered deccys was nearly tail heavy and i like flying it like that.Took off an apc 14x6 and put a zinger 14x5 on man it was nearly full down elevator at times on the takeoff climb with a full tank of fuel but it hovered ok.I'm not keen on zinger but have a couple of zoar woods and they are ok,nylon apc's are hard to beat.I have a couple of vess woods too but have yet to try them.Maybe someone else here has a lot of experience running wood props on saito's i would'nt mind some tips myself if anybody wants to share.With the bollies are saying that hobby shops or distributors here will not bring them in ?
I've run some of my saito's on wooden props (i've got a nice wood 23x10 menz prop on the fg57) and don't mind them just need to watch the cg if you are close to the rear limit.One of my 82 powered deccys was nearly tail heavy and i like flying it like that.Took off an apc 14x6 and put a zinger 14x5 on man it was nearly full down elevator at times on the takeoff climb with a full tank of fuel but it hovered ok.I'm not keen on zinger but have a couple of zoar woods and they are ok,nylon apc's are hard to beat.I have a couple of vess woods too but have yet to try them.Maybe someone else here has a lot of experience running wood props on saito's i would'nt mind some tips myself if anybody wants to share.With the bollies are saying that hobby shops or distributors here will not bring them in ?
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I dropped the 125 off with a tank of gas for the Barbee on the way through from Canada a while ago. We got into some serious "reminiscing" and think you forgot it all
No, really want to get down that way sometimes.
No, really want to get down that way sometimes.