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Hobbsy, my rear bearing had one of the balls tear the cage open and migrate towards one of the others.Previous owner must not have been very mechanical to continue to run it that way. Oddly enough it does not look like there is any damage to the cam or crank teeth.
I get bearings from a local supplier and usually wait till the order is large enough to soften the "Fuel Surcharge" that is added to every purchase. Boca would have been a great option, but for the first time they decided not to exhibit at the Toledo Show next weekend.
I get bearings from a local supplier and usually wait till the order is large enough to soften the "Fuel Surcharge" that is added to every purchase. Boca would have been a great option, but for the first time they decided not to exhibit at the Toledo Show next weekend.
I have heard that the aluminum ones will slip and cause your problem. Are the steel and aluminum ones interchangeable? I want to convert some of my Saito to CDI. Thanks.
Sincerely, RichardClub Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180;
Sincerely, RichardClub Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180;
My Feedback: (3)
I use mostly the Great Planes spinners that have the aluminum backplates. I've never had problems with them. It's been a while since I checked out the DuBros but aren't they heavier and cost more? I could be wrong.
Sincerely, Richard
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Cairns, AUSTRALIA
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Spaceworm, I use the anodised aluminum spinners from Dubro, as I said they are great for my purposes. I also use the heavier brass versions of the same spinner when I have c of g problems. I also use the domed nuts they sell when I can get them though they can some times be a problem with the cone rubbers on my starter. I am reading with interest all of the problems being discussed about bearing failure. The only problem I have had to date in some 20 years of operating Saitos is to have bearings rust up and in one case (with a second hand engine) I had the bearings start to rotate inside the crankcase.
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That's the 8 th conversion I have done & it's the 1st time I've had a problem.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 04-03-2015 at 06:47 AM.
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: matthews,
NC
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Hello all i am setting up my first Saito engine i am putting a Saito 72 on a Seagull Decatlon with a 68" wingspan. A friend gave me a APC 12 X 6 prop will this prop be okay for the engine?
P3 welcome the 72 will have enough power for a bit more than scale performance.I fly my 65" blackhorse and pheonix arf deccys with 82's but the first one had a 62 in it,scale performance.I think a good prop like the 14x8 apc would be to much for a 72 my 82 swings a 14x6 apc comfortably,scale speed in the air too.
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Kerrville,
TX
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I am puzzled: The glow plug threads of my NEW Saito FA-125 cylinder look worn even though no cross-threading has occurred?? I noticed this when I removed the glow plug to find the TDC while performing valve gap check. The threads still work out and hold the glow plug tight but, as said, look worn. Nothing like this has never happened to me in 20+ years of playing with various glow engines?! As I removed the OS-F plug some small aluminum particles came out along with the plug.
CR
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Ah the prop thing. 14x8 is really good on a 65 if it is used at the right RPM let alone you 72. This is why I always have a selection of props available when either testing an engine or "getting it right" at the field. 14x8 if it is in the recommended range for the engine is the place to start, and in this case I suspect you will go down in both diameter and pitch until you get the correct "scale" performance. Mind you to some "correct scale speed" is the model actually doing the same speed as the full size device. Scale speed is as an example if full size does say 120knots the a 1/6th scale should do 20 knots. Not many models perform ideally at true scale speed but will go close if correctly designed to do so.
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On glo plug threads, I have noted of late that some Saitos that I have the conventional straight cut threads while others have rolled threads. Later is better but no worries working with either.
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Kerrville,
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My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
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Thanks Pete, I'm sliding it a month down the road. I had to pay a huge electric bill due to the extended cold spell we had, 5 to 15 degrees. I did till the garden yesterday, and I'm changing the oil in all my Briggs & Stratton engines. The Harley has new oil from last fall.
I have twin TurboHeaders on the 1.00 and Enya A-3 plugs, I might get to run it today, too much easter stuff to do.
I have twin TurboHeaders on the 1.00 and Enya A-3 plugs, I might get to run it today, too much easter stuff to do.
Good morning guys, Happy Easter. I have a Satio .80 that was a (basket case) that l had got from my brother. lt need'ed push rods and tubs. l could find the tubs but could not find the push rods! Well l am from the south! lol........ So l bought the tubs and seals and having a broken push rod, l took two allen rench's and cut them down, rounded both ends with a tapper, set the valve lash and it runs like a new one. SO, IT'S ALIVE!!! One more Satio is in the air. Steel have a Satio180 for sale or trade.
Unless you annealed the Allen wrenches they should still be hard enough. But, does anyone know the Rockwell hardness of both the Saito pushrods and Allen wrenches? Likely the pushrods are more consistent in their hardness. Allen wrenches could be all over the place.
Sincerely, Richard
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180;
YS F 120;
Sincerely, Richard
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180;
YS F 120;