378

My Feedback: (4)

Been doing a LOT.

* SC10GT: Mounted ProLine 1.9 BFG ATA crawler tires on Axial glue-on plastic wheels, tinkered with carb settings, adjusted weighting, fitted 5-cell nickel Rx pack, fitted ~80oz-in metal gear steering servo.

* NTC3: Currently down, the entire front end is worn plumb out and the engine has a massive airleak somewhere. Only runs right at high throttle.

* Mad Crusher GP: Got it tuned in, replaced stock radio system with a Futaba 4YF, replaced throttle servo with the old steering servo pulled from my SC10GT. HAve a better steering servo en-route, and a light kit.

* CA-10: New driveshaft en-route, planned to get a Mamba Micro X ESC, a trailer hitch, winch, and itt'l be my FPV testbed. But nothing bought down these lines yet.

I'm of the same mind. 40-45MPH is more or less the fastest I'm comfortable with, and even then some cars less so than others. My Mad Crusher GP is -beep-ing terrifying to drive at those kinds of speeds(But by jove does it get there in a hurry!). My NTC3 is twitchy but fun to conquer, and my SC10GT feels like it's only going 30 until it avoids sending me to the hospital by a few inches.

Fast is fun, but there's such a thing as too fast. And, honestly, it's part of why I'm so happy with nitro. I don't deny that it's got less potential for speed than brushless, but it's already capable of going fast enough that I don't want for more top end!

RustyUs

I'm a fan of the black wheels ^^^ on that "Wheely Box". To me, it makes it look "tough" IMO. I wasted hours on the interwebs trying to find, what I thought would be, the right body mounts for SC10 & Parma's muscle car body. The thought of going horizontal (lol) never occured to me. What body mounts did you use?

suburban_hooligan

HPI part# 85002

378

My Feedback: (4)

Mmm.

* CA-10: New RC4WD Punisher driveshaft, drove it.

* Mad Crusher GP: New steering servo fitted, light kit installed. Planning on driving it tonight, might as well test the lights too.

* SC10GT: Squeezed the tires. Need to get out and run it this weekend as well, I reset it to break-in settings 2wks ago and haven't gotten the gumption up to go retune the thing.

RustyUs

SCT is developing signs of slipper loosening by itself. Time to replace nut? I will use chapstick thread lock for now...that stuff will last me forever...still on the fence of it working like liquid/gel thread lock.

Made grip for transmitter's wheel out of an old closed cell foam insert. Everywhere I go, for JConcepts Dirt-Tech Steering Wheel Foam Grip, it's sold out . My FlySky's wheel foam has disintegrated almost to the point of it breaking in half. I needed a quick fix. A buggy front closed cell foam would have been perfect for chopping up to make fit.

EDIT: I couldn't wait until July for supply to come in to most places. I almost settled for the yellow ones. Found a set of gray JConcepts Dirt-Tech Foam Grips... eBay to the rescue. I trying to stay away from eBay at the moment. I'm now wheeling and dealing for spare SC10/T4 parts .

RustyUs

Getting ready to storm here. Cleaning out some junk from underneath pool table. Airhogs, and a couple of mini 173mm helis from past Christmases ago...Airhogs are garbage bound. Helis are probably going to get sold for parts.

Been flying an Estes Proto X nano quadcoptor all morning long. Not as easy as I thought. Indoors it kinda tough, and must go slow to be prepared for stuff. Outdoor, I can let 'er rip a bit. Horizon was practically giving them away last year. More than likely, the nano quad will be broke by the end of the day.

Moving weight around on SC10 between charges of the piece of junk nano quad. I'm up to 1/4 lb. extra weight added to the SC chassis. Seems to smooth out the ride quite a bit compared to other SC10 that's only running the ballast weight.

RustyUs

E6000 used to fill cracks, and gaps on aging Evader ST Pro body. I gotta try to make the body last as long as possible. Heck, I may even try to bolt on anther rear Lexan spoiler to the ST. Hopefully the spare EXT 2.4 body that I have will be as durable as the original Evader body.

RustyUs

Had to open up another LiPo hard case pack, and my thoughts were correct. Inboard tube had solder joint come undone.

Picture is from last years pack developing same issue.

The first sign of battery's internal wire coming undone, was when I'd go to plug in battery lead to connect to ESC, then turn on ESC, and nothing happens. I would then pull out the battery lead a tiny bit...ESC would turn on, and I was good to go. After a lap, or two, the ESC would turn off. I would pull out the battery lead a tad bit more...ESC turns back on. Opening the LiPo up,..everything looks fine, until you tug on the tube's wires.

This is when it pays to have a soldering iron.

RustyUs

Eyeballing things is usually good enough for my everyday bashers, but I like to log my settings down for future references. I have dedicated ride height gauge, but arm is not quite long enough to get good reading.

76¢ worth of local hardware store nuts and bolts; little bit of trimming...


The bolts even have "RCT" on them.

Joee67

Completely rebuilding my VKar Bison. Cracked chassis, bearings, re-building diffs and steel spur gear.

RustyUs

Going with the metal chassis plate upgrade? The Bison always sparks an interest with me. I love the whole 1/10 scale truggy look. I'll have me a 1/10 scale 4wd stadium truck (truggy) someday. Hopefully.

RustyUs

Rain forecasted for the next couple of days, and will give me a chance to catch up on some RC maintenance.

First up, the Evader ST is getting a tear down and rebuild.

I'm always pushing the limits of outdrive bearings. No matter what platform, they seem to take the most punishment. The idler gear, and top shaft bearings rarely give me any problems. Heck, I'll bet most of my 2wd RCs trannys have their original idler/top shaft bearings. A lot of times I can "revive" a bearing with cleaning and re-lubing, and other times the "crunchiness" is just too much, and requires a new replacement.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Ever consider the Hyper TT? You know how much I love mine.

RustyUs

EXT2Rob, I've considered the HoBao Hyper TT many times, but I don't need another aging RC platform to worry about parts support. The Hyper TT is aging gracefully. If HoBao were to update the TT, after the ET410 comes out, that would be awesome. When Tekno RC releases their ET410, that'll be my first choice for a 4wd stadium truck. Mostly because it's a new platform that I can start out fresh with. Tekno's SCT410.3 was atop of the wishlist for me. I kept putting off buying one, 'cause I've got my eBuggy to mess with.

After Tekno released some parts labeled for their EB410/ET410, people started to scratch their heads, 'cause the ET410 is not listed on Tekno RC's website...yet. That purposeful? leak is a game changer for what I want in a RC now. I normally don't pre-order new platforms. Probably with the ET410, I will wait a couple of months to let others work out the bugs (if any). It all depends on the release date, and how close it is until Christmas. It'll give me time to feel out what bodies may fit the chassis.

I flip flop so much when preparing to purchase another RC, but this time it is different. I love everything about stadium trucks. A 4wd stadium truck (a long time dream of mine) and it being made by Tekno RC... should be a sweet ride! Hopefully Tekno RC, with it's ET410 1/10 scale truggy, will be able to bring back the fizzled out racing class that the Hyper TT started.

suburban_hooligan

i let my stuff sit and collect dust. kicked around the idea of selling a few but really it seems like more hassle than it's worth (unless it's local and in cash). i don't think i give a damn about RC anymore

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Dang, dude, why's that?

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Rusty, I hear ya. The Hyper TT has been around for quite a while I guess. Got nervous when the whole OFNA thing happened, but so far, HoBao seems to be holding their own, and even trying to grow the brand. It would be nice to see them update the Hyper line. That would certainly signal their continued support of the platform, but at least there's no rumblings about it going away either.

suburban_hooligan

i was out looking at the shelving unit i keep all my cars on. some are just old and hard to find parts for. some are newer and still in production but hard to find parts for. others are newer but discontinued.
3 of the newest cars iv bought (RC10 worlds car re-release, apex mini, and TC4) are now discontinued. the worlds car didn't last long, the apex mini was a new release (or should that be new re-release sense it's an 18R?) when i bought it and now it's just gone, it didn't last long. the TC4 had a long run, but it's now gone. i originally bought it to give VTA a shot. well with lack of wheels, tires and bodies available at the time that didn't happen. and now im seeing guys running brand new state of the art chassis' in that class which goes against everything that class was founded on so iv lost interest in VTA. im just waiting for my SC10.something to get discontinued. i will not buy a RC10SC5. and the RC10T4.whatever which i used to really want is now discontinued as well.
its turned into me throwing a crap tone of money at something for no lasting support. the turnaround is to quick, the support is lacking, and the cost is WAY to damn high for all of that.

with the exception of Tamiya i don't trust any major manufacture anymore.

not to mention finding something i want and am willing to pay for is getting difficult. im F'ing tired of everything being RTR and the lack of kits in anything other than expensive high end race cars that get replaced by an updated model every 6 months. im F'ing tired of LHS's never having stuff in stock. im F'ing tired of bashers being so crappy and under supported and not lasting more than a few years. buying a new car has turned into a high risk headache with no reward. the path the industry is on i don't like and don't respect, and i really don't think i want to participate anymore. iv been really questioning that lately

RustyUs

Done messing around with whacked motor that has me scratching my head.

Orienting every RC's ON/OFF switch so that ON is facing forward. I had a couple switches that were turned on by pushing the ON/OFF switch in towards the center of chassis. Now I don't have to try and remember the orientation of every switch. I don't know why I ever veered away from always putting the ON facing forward. Probably because I didn't like the wires coming out of the front of the switch's body, and that made more of a visual mess to me.

Tired of my SCT's nerf bars catching/collecting vegetation around the track, I bolted the front leading edge of the nerf bars to the chassis. Hopefully, I won't have to pick out debris between the bars and chassis now, or at least very minimal. I should have done this years ago.

Also, going around and taking off all ESC fans, but the Hobbywing WP-SC8 speed controls will be left alone as the fans are enclosed.. I don't have a need for fans at the moment. No ESC heat issues in years since moving/installing appropriate motor for the speeds I can use on the track. For me, I ran into ESC heat issues when I would dial back/limit a much too powerful of motor.

RustyUs

I choose to go the Team Associated way/route, when looking for a RC platform to buy, simply because of their reputation for parts support long after a platform is on the discontinued list. Speaking of which, I didn't know the SC10.3, or the T4.3 has been discontinued. Team Associated still shows them as being available .

@ What have you done to your RC today?, and suburban_hooligan: I've looked at options for building my next RC kit. Not good. Actually, it's really sad, and great at the same time. I would think there is more money to be made by offering a basic kit for a person to build. I know I would be more inclined to buy a kit from Arrma, HPI, HoBao, etc., etc. if they offered a 100% unassembled platform. That being said, it's super easy for me to decide where to look for kits now.

"The boat has sailed" for me waiting/wanting a kit from the fastest name in radio control.

Beginning my day off with LiPo packs charging, and got my 4 gallon sprayer all filled up with chemicals to combat track's vegetation growth.

suburban_hooligan

the SC10.3 is still readily available. it's just the RC10T4.3 that was discontinued. which has me all like ***. cause two thirds of the damn things are the same. parts support will dry up quickly as people freak and start hording pats. so locally i won't be able to find anything, ill be suck looking online, which as places run out with get more and more difficult. then ill be stuck paying ever inflating prices on ebay. im not dealing with that crap. if it's not easy to run im not running it. i just don't give a damn anymore.

hell at this point id be happy with a roller for a decent price (that's how my TC4 came). im pretty sure the days of buying a "team kit" style truck are long gone forever. that's the version of RC10T3 i bought back in 1998. basic kit with 1 peace wheels, full ball bearings, CVD's, proline tires with foam inserts, clear body, steel turnbuckles, aluminum body shocks, and a ball diff. for the easily affordable price of $180. but the days of value for your money are long over. today they might offer the RTR version as a roller with generic tires (if it even comes with tires), gear diff, dogbones, and a butt ugly body for $240ish. which sounds good until you realize a ball diff and dogbones alone are going to run you $100. so then you're $340ish into basic kit for bashing and haven't even put electronics in it yet. that's race kit that will be replaced with version 2.0 in 20 minutes territory. they're just trying to F you coming and going. im sick of it. they're not getting my money


those losers who claim to be the fastest but have no proof of it and have never won anything used to make kits. i knew a guy who bought one. RTR's are fitting for them, there fans aren't hobbyists. they're just idiots looking for an easy to play with toy. they're essentially a replacement for Tyco. just to bad there quality isn't as good. Tyco's were actually fun and didn't break every time you ran them.

i did buy the last kit i think HPI put out, the savage xs ss. and it's freaking awesome. fairly priced and i haven't had to hop up a single thing. but it's gone and just the RTR version exists now.

RustyUs

"they're essentially a replacement for Tyco." hooligan, you crack me up. Thanks for making my daily LOL moment.

I had the privilege of owning the Blue Eagle in 1990. I will say this, that thing was a "top shelf" RC back in the day. I pretty sure it came out before the RC10T, or I would have gotten the RC10T to go along with my RC10 Team Car to share parts with. We were lucky to get a handful of trucks to be able to have a class to race back then. And when the truck guys did show up to race, they were using converted buggies. The class never really took off, and I lost interest...sold the Blue Eagle at the end of the season. I never drove another stadium truck until 2006 when the Duratrax Evader ST Pro showed up for one of my daughter's presents. 1990 to 2006 it was all about racing 2wd buggies for me. I beat myself up sometimes when I think about how I should have bought a T2 when they came out. I couldn't afford to run to classes, so I stuck with buggies.

Anyhow, it's raining... again. No RCing tonight.

Drilling holes and clamping the nerf bars tight against the chassis on my other SC. Changing oil and pistons on T4.3's shocks. I swear they made the pistons all wonky on mine.

RustyUs

Wonky? Indeed they are. Didn't notice it when I was "upping" oil wight. 10mm pistons turned out to be 9mm...at best.

RustyUs

Tore down T4.2 to get bearings; diff, and shocks cleaned. I then rebuilt everything with minor change to shock oil wt.

Since scriptasylum.com is no longer with us, any other sites out there that are similar for speed/gear/wattage calculations?

suburban_hooligan

ok so in the last 2 weeks iv acquired: RC10 (6 gear trans), RC10, RC10T, RC10L, Team Losi XX, Cox Nissan GTP, and some unidentified 1/8 nitro drag cars. as well as all the electronics for everything.
last weekend i organized and made sense of it.
this weekend i got the RC10L to run (still need to mount and paint the body) but iv test driven it and it's ohhh so smooth. then i took apart a bunch of old nicd and nimh packs that were starting to get fuzzy and leak. made up some nimh saddle packs. then i finally tuned the suspension on my clodbuster. iv got 8 AE shocks on it, i changed the shock pistons, went to thinner oil, and took a spring off 1 shock per wheel. it's no longer way over sprung.