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Official HPI E-10 Thread

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Old 02-04-2010, 02:27 AM
  #276  
phmaximus
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

NitroRX7
yeah bud, kinda, the lip is the sidewall but... The rim itself has 2 lips


istundra
omg dude, 4600kv!!! WOW im running a 3800kv on a 24t pinion in drift. Mine has way to much power/torque & I sware i could even use a 30t pinion & still have crazy wheelspinning ability.
I would say that motor is way to fast & has to much torque for most r/c cars, thay are only really used for Very high speed runs. because of the e10's gearing i would reccomend a 3300kv or lower brushless motor, then that way u can gear it up for the speed u want, with out it been to hard to drive.
here is a video of the 3900kv motor i have, in a baja king. It can get to 87km/h (venom speed meter) even with the punch set to the lowest its impossibe to go full throttle under 50 with out it spinig out
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5xNlVuntoDg[/youtube]

oh forgot to mention, the hpi locked diff is extreemly strong but the front way diff.... I dont know, but i know that the tamiya front way diff's dont take long to ware out, & with the speed of brushless it would ware even faster.

momogt
I think i have the same motor mount, U do know all u need to do is just move the outer mount & dont unscrew the mid mount from the motor. just face it the other way just like a mirrior image any probs, post a pic
Old 02-04-2010, 05:21 PM
  #277  
momogt
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

what type of battery are you using lipo or nimh and what brushless set do you have
Old 02-05-2010, 01:30 AM
  #278  
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

phmaximus

hey bro. where did you get your alu skid plate? I've never seen that before. looks sweet.
Old 02-06-2010, 07:25 AM
  #279  
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

its a yeah racing 35a brushless ESC with a 3900kv motor. in the buggy it uses a 11.1v lipo, & in the e10 its a 7.4v lipo. Ive soldered the fan into the BEC so no matter what battery is pluged in, the fan will allways be around 6v.

cheerz m8, i got the plate of (a very popular auction site) from a bloke that hand makes them, because he was sick of cracking the chassis lol

have u guys seen the new yeah racing alloy suspension arms??? thay look tempting
Old 02-06-2010, 08:11 AM
  #280  
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

hello my friends, i am from greece so sorry about my english,

i run an hpi e10 drift and i want to upgrade it only for drift.
i already upgraded the motor with a thunder tiger super 17T the tires with yokomo ring tires and the esc with an LRP standard automatic runner series and a 4000mAh LRP battery ni-MH
i am thinking to change the pinion with a 20T for better acceleration and replace the stock esc (because i think is better battery saver)
which upgrades do you suggest for turning the e10 for the absolutely drift machine?



with regards, tsagko7 
Old 02-06-2010, 01:22 PM
  #281  
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

haha nice. well the skid plate looks great. i wish they actually manufactured on a large scale basis. Ive been trying to look for that online.

yeah they look sweet. i saw that they make f/r upper and lower arms.

has anyone seen the hpi e10 camber kits? I was wondering if these take place of the upper and lower arms or do you just install them onto the existing ones? mine has really bad negative camber and its noticable on thetire wear.

heres the link:

http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/88137/
Old 02-06-2010, 01:42 PM
  #282  
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

well stock e10s have a 19t pinion so i guess putting a 20t would give you a good amount of acceleration/torque. Just try a bunch of different pinions to see what would work best for you.

i sugest getting a one way diferential in the front anda locked differential in the back. by locking the rear, youll get way better turn in because you have equal amount of power to both wheels. With the standard differential, the outside wheel is spinning faster to compensate for traction but in this case for drifting traction isn't as important since you want to get it sideways. putting the one way differential in the front enables the car to do tighter more incredible drifts because when you tap the brakes the front is in a free wheeling momentarly making the car RWD.

i havea 15t motor in mine and upgraded everything most of the drivetrain to aluminum. i put the locked differential in the back so it drifts alot better. I'm still debating whether i want to put the one way differential because I like to drift/race at faster speeds but for 20USD i think Im going to try it,

hope this helps.
Old 02-06-2010, 04:33 PM
  #283  
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

my e10 came with a 21t pinion stock then a got some robinson racing metric 20t and 19t
Old 02-06-2010, 06:24 PM
  #284  
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

the "E10 ONI-KYAN ARM SET" replaces the hole upper arms allowing camber adjustment,



Yeah Racing make arms that do the same thing



For anyone thinking about making a drift machine, get ya self the HPI upgrade shocks & swaybars with the locked rear diff
Old 02-07-2010, 01:36 AM
  #285  
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

ooooH!! that yeah racing ones look so much better. love the anodized purple!
Old 02-17-2010, 07:33 AM
  #286  
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

Ok everyone I need some help…. When replacing the plastic bushings (#85601 ) with some bearings there is a small metal ring under the plastic bushing now I have tried taking it out however the bearing just flops around when I put the ring back in fits.. however once under load the ring will slide down the main shaft. Have I got some dodgy bearings.. should get some original HPI bearings.









Thanks in advance
James
Old 02-18-2010, 03:44 AM
  #287  
FireFrenzy
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

for me the bearings (i got the HPI set) with the metal ring in the middle worked very well and everything stays in place very well... can you get some calipers and measure the inside diameter of the bearing?
Old 02-19-2010, 06:13 PM
  #288  
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

hummm i had this problem too, it was with the car in drift mode & the front diff's bearing spacer keept coming out & wondering up the small shaft. I solved it by fitting the small main shaft the right way around lol,
I found that the small main shaft & the longer main shaft only go in one way only.
Try turning around the shaft where it keeps coming out

this is an upgrade one, very much the same as the stock plastic one, but as u can see from its shape, & the notch, it will hold the spacer onw way, but if fitted backwards it wont
Old 02-20-2010, 12:44 PM
  #289  
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

Hello, got a E10 a week ago and this is the best forum thread going for the car so first off, thanks to everyone for the info on this car.

My setup is E10 Mustang with drift conversion with a 19t brushed motor. I got aluminium main shaft and short shaft, HR aluminium motor mount, bearing kit (of course), and Yeah Racing steering kit.

I have a sidewinder esc in it right now so I can run lipos but haven't put the 5700kv in it yet.

This car is great right out the box, but there are a few "must have" upgradesIMO no matter what you plan to use it for.

First is a bearing kit, second an aluminium driveshaft, and last an aluminium steering kit. I recommend the Yeah Racing kit

I would list the set oni-kyan upper and lower arms too but they dont seem to be available anywhere at the moment. If someone knows a site that has them in stock, please let me know.


Anyone know how to adjust the preload on the stock shocks? I dont want to buy the upgraded shocks if I dont have too.
Old 02-20-2010, 06:53 PM
  #290  
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

hey m8, sounds like u have a nice ride, Just wondering why a 5700kv motor??? thats around 41040rpm on 7.2v!! & 63270rpm on 11.1v!!!!!!
ummm... u could get the same rpm from a 3900kv motor on 11.1v but much fewer amps

Not to shure on the adjustable arms been a needed upgrade, IMO the camber is great on the stock arms. U only really need them if u are using the swaybars & upgrade shocks.
every now and again thay pop up on ebay, but cwactionhobbies, eparduotuve, Canyon Hobbies & RC Planet have them in stock.

Just for the record the stock shocks are Not shock absorbers, thay dont even have oil, all thay are is 2 peices of plastic that click together with a spring holding them apart. IMO these are the worst shock ever!! & remind me of the cars at tandy/radio shack. It would be like getting a new car & taking the shocks out so it just drives on the springs.
all u need to do to adjust the preload (u cant decrease it tho) is rap a cable tie around the spring seat, this will hold more tension on the spring OR simply buy softer or harder springs

I highly recomend the real HPI shocks, u can adjust the pre load & the length (meaning u can change the ride hight independently from the preload) as well as that u can change the oil thickness & there is heaps of diffrent springs available, oh cant rember but i think u can even change the shock piston, i payed AUD$60 for all 4 from ebay
Old 02-21-2010, 10:18 AM
  #291  
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

First thing I tried was zip-ties and because the "shock body"( lol, Iknow its questionable to refer to these things as shocks at all) is so small it is hard to get the spring to sit properly. I haven't tried this yet, but I was going to put some foam in the slider track of the "shock body" and maybe hold it in with a small zip-tie or tape and see if that stiffens it up enough for me.

I just happen to have a 5700kv that is not being used in another car. I have a 4600kv in my slash and I could use that motor if I wanted too but I got the slash dialed-in and dont want to mess with it. I only run those Turnigy 2c 5000mah 20c batteries. I run the slash on short dirt tracks in backyards where torque rules but I would be running the E10 in parking lots where I want a lil more top speed.I will post some pics and a youtube vid once Iput the motor in.

As for the Oni-Kyan arms:
http://www.rcplanet.com/HPI_Racing_O...p/hpi88137.htm

http://www.canyonhobbies.com/HPI-Rac...p/hpi88137.htm

http://cwactionhobbies.com/onikyan-f...0-p-20226.html(wont say Out of Stock till you put them in cart)

Had to use google translate for eparduotuve but they are also out of stock. Just post a link because I am not having any luck.


Also, what normaly breaks along the drivetrain first. I'm thinking spur but do the stock dogbones ever twist up or get stripped?
Old 02-21-2010, 03:41 PM
  #292  
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

I have the same battery. Tenergy 5000mAH 20C 2cell battery and would like to know when and how you charge/discharge/balance this battery.

sorry for the newb question...

I am unsure when to balance is the main question... so when do we? when it is charged/discharged or when? Thanks in advance!!

I also have a sidewinder ECU and 4600kV brushless motor in my E10.<br type="_moz" />
Old 02-21-2010, 04:56 PM
  #293  
prontozuk
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

Hi Firefrenzy,

i got some calibers from bunning over the weekend and they measure 12mm.

Thank James
Old 02-21-2010, 07:25 PM
  #294  
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

I bought the Thunder AC6 charger for $60 shipped. I would recommend this charger if you don't have one or don't like the one you have.

I run a lipo balance charge @ 5.0Aevery timeI charge a battery. You don't have to balance on each charge but your ESC is set to cutoff power at 3v, so your battery will only last as long as your weakest cell. A balance charge will make sure that both cells are peak charged and should hit 3v at the same time. The Thunder AC6 charger automatically reduces amps (from 5 to .1) as the battery charges to get the most juice in it. I never charge batteries right after using them. I like to let them cool for an hour or so before recharging. I have 4 bats so I usually wait till the next day before I recharge any I used.

I never discharge with the charger I just run the battery in my car/truck to run it down. If you are going to store lipo batteries for a long time(like 2 weeks or more) You want to charge each cell to about 3.8v. My charger has a storage charge setting that does this automatically.

How is the drivetrain handling the 4600kv motor? Are you using any punch control or did you adjust the motor timing on the sidewinder?
<br type="_moz" />
Old 02-21-2010, 11:22 PM
  #295  
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

Thanks. I just wanted to check. I am using a Tenergy Balancer Charger...

Drive Train? You pretty much need to upgrade everything.

I have a Locked Diff for the rear, ATOM carbon drift shaft (don't get HPI.. i had it and it does not handle the power well). Upgraded the diff gear to bearings.

I have pretty much broke every peice... i really want to put some street tires on it.. but that puts more stress on the gears. Wish i got a Sprint 2 cuz these E10 cannot fully output the power of the brushless...

<br type="_moz" />
Old 02-22-2010, 04:54 AM
  #296  
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

sick, Ive allways wanted a slash, ive got its baby brother the Rustler, Hey ever tryed 3s batterys??
From what I can see is the spur is a problem for most people (Im still on my 1st one) so not to shure if its a problem or uncorrect settings or maintance.

With the small 1/10 size touring car wheels I would suspect that the drive train encluding the dog bones should hold up, im now running a 3900kv motor on 7.4v & have run a 13double turn on 11.1v & the stock motor for ages on 7.4v & a bit on 7.2v & ive never had any problems only thing is ive had the swaybars, HPI main shaft & HPI CV drive shafts.
hummmm...... might be worth getting the HPI CV drive Shafts, just thinking

Good points about the Lipo carging, I totally agree
Rule of thumb guys
1000mAh =1amp charge max
2000mAh =2amp charge max
3000mAh =3amp charge max
etc

i use the same rule for niMh but with these try not to charge them at the max amp's too often unless u are in a hurry
Old 02-22-2010, 02:47 PM
  #297  
haas599
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

I've put 3s in my slash and I have a buddy that runs nothing but 3s. He has WAYmore tranny/driveshaft/spur gear/motor temp.problems than I do. We also run backyard tracks where that extra speed doesnt get a lot of use. He has a Mamba ESC with a VXL motor.

I locked my diff (blue tac)over the weekend and I can say first handit does help the drifting.


Ive run 48p and 32p gears in the slash and found that neither is better than the other. It comes down to getting your mesh set properly and adjusting your slip clutch to be able to lay the power down but slip when it should. Also you need to learn how to land jumps properly. I've had spurs thatlasted for a couple months and I run my slash a 2-3 times a week. I've also ran a metal spur and though I loved the sound it made, I found it wore faster and I would much rather buy 5 plastic spurs for the price of one metal.
Old 02-26-2010, 07:06 AM
  #298  
phmaximus
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

agreed, metal gears dont last long.
Old 02-26-2010, 08:37 PM
  #299  
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

hey guys. i used to have a sprint 2 which i was using a 14t doublewind motor in but after a few crashes ive given up on trying to fix everything. now ive got an E10 and was wondering if this motor would be suitable for it and which gears and spurs would also suit the motor for best torque and speed.

also would i need to change the ESC aswell?

all advise appreciated thanks
Old 02-27-2010, 07:57 AM
  #300  
JUS4SHO
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Default RE: Official HPI E-10 Thread

i just bought a E10 of ebay its new just dont have a radio system and battery, i have a spare traxxas velenion brushless system can i use it in this model and if so what will be the things i would need to upgrade (can the drivetrain handle that power) also what tires did you guys find best for drifting, i am new to cars and drifting since i mostly ran trucks so any information shared i will be thankfull


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