Welcome to Club SAITO !
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: matthews,
NC
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think i will grind some off but why would they make the mount with an angle where you cant put a nut?
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: goolwasa, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,680
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
They do it all the time especially with plastic ones . Don't stress just go with either way and it will fine . You could also add a bit of sealant , ca to help it stay tight . cheers
I need some opinions I am finishing up my Cub with a Saito 100 and i used the engine mount that i got with the engine. It is a metal mount with tapped holes for the bolts. The bolts do not go all the way thru because the top side of the mount is on an angle with no way to put a lock nut . The engine feels secure should i try it like this with a ground test and why is the top side made with an angle?
Senior Member
I need some opinions I am finishing up my Cub with a Saito 100 and i used the engine mount that i got with the engine. It is a metal mount with tapped holes for the bolts. The bolts do not go all the way thru because the top side of the mount is on an angle with no way to put a lock nut . The engine feels secure should i try it like this with a ground test and why is the top side made with an angle?
Just use lock washers under the screw heads & back that up with some blue Loc-tite 242.
All you will accomplish by grinding flats is making stress risers at the points where you ground the mount thus weakening it..
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 02-03-2016 at 05:27 AM.
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: goolwasa, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,680
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The mount beams are angled to put as much material as possible at the area that has the most stress with out adding unnecessary weight where it isn't needed.
Just use lock washers under the screw heads & back that up with some blue Loc-tite 242.
All you will accomplish by grinding flats is making stress risers at the points where you ground the mount thus weakening it..
Just use lock washers under the screw heads & back that up with some blue Loc-tite 242.
All you will accomplish by grinding flats is making stress risers at the points where you ground the mount thus weakening it..
My Feedback: (6)
I will admit I would drill thru the legs use longer screw, Loctite, a lock washer under the screw head, and a lock nut/Nylock nut on the far end (without grinding a flat spot). Maybe I'm being paranoid but I haven't had an engine shake loose yet.
My Feedback: (6)
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: goolwasa, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,680
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've never had to use loctite on engine mount bolts on a glow engine . They haven't fallen off yet , l have used self tapping screws on a 54 four stroke into a plastic mount with good results as well . Haven't tried on larger engines but !! Don't worry about fire ring up anyone, some people just grind my gears and S . Telly is one of them ! If its not going on ad nauseum about ignition bla bla bla its making a paper plane sound like building the space shuttle ! Unfortunalty he wont get to read this as Im on his ignore list . Wonder why ? Cheers
Chances oft the bolts backing out of that mount are slim, but if you want added security, just use longer bolts, and nylock nuts. Once the bolt passes through the mount, put the nut over it and hold it in place until the bolt starts to thread in, then tighten the bolt, if done right, the angle of the mount will be against one flat of the nut, and that along with the nylon insert will keep the bolt in place.
My Feedback: (1)
I need some opinions I am finishing up my Cub with a Saito 100 and i used the engine mount that i got with the engine. It is a metal mount with tapped holes for the bolts. The bolts do not go all the way thru because the top side of the mount is on an angle with no way to put a lock nut . The engine feels secure should i try it like this with a ground test and why is the top side made with an angle?
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
Likes: 0
Received 25 Likes
on
25 Posts
Dan, I got the wrist pin in the ,65 loose, I made a small press using my 3" MicroMark vice, a 6x32 bolt and 1/4" hardwood block. It moved about .125" and then came loose. It now floats easily in the rod end and the wrist pin bores. It wasn't stuck all that hard, just too hard for fingers.
My Feedback: (6)
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: matthews,
NC
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The good news Great Planes Cub with a Saito 100 is finished. The bad news the prop and nut came off two times on ground test. The engine is inverted and i have 2 line tank so i fill thru the carb line . I have an inverted saito 72 on my decathlon and never have this problem. I may have a little room to raise the tank but not much. The other issue is since the GP Cub has a recessed firewall it is almost impossible to remove the glow plug. At this point i am not sure what the best option is. I always turn the prop over by hand before trying to start it to make sure there is no hydro lock and both times the prop moved freely until i used my starter and the prop and nut came off both times from some serious backfire. What do you guys think i should do remount the engine on its side or any other suggestions.
Thanks
Thanks
Sounds more like an engine issue than a tank issue if its backfiring. My Saito 100 will start with a back flip, so guessing on yours its probably too lean on the low speed setting. If the tank is too high it will flood the engine, too low and it will lean out under a half tank, but knowing that airframe, I am guessing the tank CL is just above the bar of the carb with the engine inverted.
Tune the engine with a half tank of fuel before doing anything else. The lower level of fuel will set the mixture better than with a full tank, as you can be too lean at WOT with a half tank and stall out the lower the level goes.
Tune the engine with a half tank of fuel before doing anything else. The lower level of fuel will set the mixture better than with a full tank, as you can be too lean at WOT with a half tank and stall out the lower the level goes.
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: matthews,
NC
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds more like an engine issue than a tank issue if its backfiring. My Saito 100 will start with a back flip, so guessing on yours its probably too lean on the low speed setting. If the tank is too high it will flood the engine, too low and it will lean out under a half tank, but knowing that airframe, I am guessing the tank CL is just above the bar of the carb with the engine inverted.
Tune the engine with a half tank of fuel before doing anything else. The lower level of fuel will set the mixture better than with a full tank, as you can be too lean at WOT with a half tank and stall out the lower the level goes.
Tune the engine with a half tank of fuel before doing anything else. The lower level of fuel will set the mixture better than with a full tank, as you can be too lean at WOT with a half tank and stall out the lower the level goes.
I took this engine to the field when i first bought it 2 months ago and bench ran it with a friend of mine who is really good with the nitro engines . We tested it up right and set the low and high speed and it ran like a champ.This is not a new engine but it is great shape and ran smoothly when we bench ran it. I did not know i was going to mount it inverted or i would have bench ran it inverted.
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: goolwasa, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,680
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: goolwasa, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,680
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My Feedback: (6)