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This is nothing new.
SrT,
You are correct. HH does show the FG-30B uses the 14x1 header pipe and nuts used on the engines you mentioned. I believe this to be in error. I spoke with HH support and they verified what is shown to be correct. I plan to call them again today. Liem's measurement indicates a 15x1mm exhaust. Which seems odd given it is a 180 size engine.
Jim
You are correct. HH does show the FG-30B uses the 14x1 header pipe and nuts used on the engines you mentioned. I believe this to be in error. I spoke with HH support and they verified what is shown to be correct. I plan to call them again today. Liem's measurement indicates a 15x1mm exhaust. Which seems odd given it is a 180 size engine.
Jim
Dave, Liem sent me a short video and the engine had the FG-30 markings on the side. I did find a list of four stroke prop shaft and exhaust sizes and it shows a 15x1mm thread for the FG-30. We will see what HH says.
Jim
Jim
Sr
so can we base the power out put on the new FG 90 cc on the 84 cc adding say 10 percent. I am just trying to wrap my head around the power. And a radial engine has better torque then an opposed engine?
so can we base the power out put on the new FG 90 cc on the 84 cc adding say 10 percent. I am just trying to wrap my head around the power. And a radial engine has better torque then an opposed engine?
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HA HA!! Nothing wrong with the FG-11 other than lack of grunt. It will fly a long long time on a few ounces of fuel though.
Stop picking on the 125, mine works great, though it does like the alky, kind a like old farts do.
Stop picking on the 125, mine works great, though it does like the alky, kind a like old farts do.
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If you want to estimate the outputof the FG-90R3, look at the various Ray English modified FG-84R3s & add about 6%.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ffUehgpp8Ug NOTE: The intake modification as shown was a "red herring" in case Saito tried to steal the design. (they did)
Saito has since licensed Ray's intake design.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 09-22-2016 at 05:49 AM.
get a tiny container, like one of those medicine measuring cups, put some oil in it, then stick a fuel line on that nipple, and the other end in the cup and spin it with a starter. You should see oil move in and out of the tube. Start with the piston at BDC so it draws some in quicker. If you have an aerosol can of oil then stick the nozzle tube in the fuel line, and at BDC squirt some in, spin it with the starter and repeat a few times.
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get a tiny container, like one of those medicine measuring cups, put some oil in it, then stick a fuel line on that nipple, and the other end in the cup and spin it with a starter. You should see oil move in and out of the tube. Start with the piston at BDC so it draws some in quicker. If you have an aerosol can of oil then stick the nozzle tube in the fuel line, and at BDC squirt some in, spin it with the starter and repeat a few times.
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I CA'd a brass tube over the plastic straw that came with this & that adapts to a piece of fuel line that will fit over the breather nipple. Rotate the propeller to place the piston at the bottom of the exhaust stroke & you will see the fog pressure turn the prop as it forces the piston to the top. When you see bubbles around the pushrod cover rubber, you know that the crankcase is well lubed..
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 09-22-2016 at 11:05 AM.
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I CA'd a brass tube over the plastic straw that came with this & that adapts to a piece of fuel line that will fit over the breather nipple. Rotate the propeller to place the piston at the bottom of the exhaust stroke & you will see the fog pressure turn the prop as it forces the piston to the top. When you see bubbles around the pushrod cover rubber, you know that the crankcase is well lubed..
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I have a 72 in my Something Extra, and it is a little power house. One time I was taking off and was about to run out of runway due to tall grass, so chopped throttle, and just as i did that, the plane decided to lift off, so I firewalled it, and it pulled the plane straight up. Good little engine and getting better the more I run it, getting good fuel economy too, I have yet to fly long enough to empty a tank. 15 minutes and I still have at least a half tank.
It too does not like Castor based fuel.
It too does not like Castor based fuel.
As for how the SSE flies, remember how short coupled the model is. Mine may knife edge and I'm going to find out when I fly it again, but that's because it was built with fairly large counter balances. That may be enough.
I used SSEs as trainers teaching students to fly (on low rates). It is what they call an honest design. The only plane more prone to good hacking and modding is the Sig 4 Star, imo.
I have a basket case model that is just bones built by someone else and given to me. I'm thinking of lengthening the fuselage at least 3 inches for a Saito 72.
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I just thought of something and i know the answer is probably obvious but i am missing something. I fly all my saitos with a piece of fuel tubing coming off the breather nipple out the bottom of the cowl to to allow for a less messy cleanup while flying. If i am trying to add oil thru that same nipple and spinning the prop wont it be pushing the oil out like it does while i am flying?
CR
Last edited by Charley; 09-22-2016 at 03:10 PM.
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Dave could you explain what sangria is and does it have castor in it? Grand Marnier may have some if that's what you are looking for.
Acdc what size tank to you have on the 72? i use a 14oz tank flying the 82 and that will get me a safe 10 to 15 minutes with different needle settings and flying style.
Acdc what size tank to you have on the 72? i use a 14oz tank flying the 82 and that will get me a safe 10 to 15 minutes with different needle settings and flying style.
acdii- are you saying the Saito 72 doesn't run well with castor? Not sure of what you are saying here.
As for how the SSE flies, remember how short coupled the model is. Mine may knife edge and I'm going to find out when I fly it again, but that's because it was built with fairly large counter balances. That may be enough.
I used SSEs as trainers teaching students to fly (on low rates). It is what they call an honest design. The only plane more prone to good hacking and modding is the Sig 4 Star, imo.
I have a basket case model that is just bones built by someone else and given to me. I'm thinking of lengthening the fuselage at least 3 inches for a Saito 72.
As for how the SSE flies, remember how short coupled the model is. Mine may knife edge and I'm going to find out when I fly it again, but that's because it was built with fairly large counter balances. That may be enough.
I used SSEs as trainers teaching students to fly (on low rates). It is what they call an honest design. The only plane more prone to good hacking and modding is the Sig 4 Star, imo.
I have a basket case model that is just bones built by someone else and given to me. I'm thinking of lengthening the fuselage at least 3 inches for a Saito 72.
None of my Saitos run well on Castor based fuel. They smoke heavily and burble at WOT, and no amount of tuning will get them to run well. I switch back to Wildcat and they run great.
The stability and big wing is all that saved mine when the elevator servo died in the up position.
I suppose it's the difference between the crankcase pressures when the engine is running versus when it's flipped or spun with the starter. There's no combustion blowby past the rings to affect the crankcase pressure if the engine is just turned over. True, there is air in the crankcase displaced by the piston going up and down in any event but not as much without the blowby. Personally, I like to invert the engine somehow while injecting after-run oil into a 4-stroke crankcase. That way, only air gets blown back out the breather nipple when the engine is turned over.
CR
CR
Senior Member
I CA'd a brass tube over the plastic straw that came with this & that adapts to a piece of fuel line that will fit over the breather nipple. Rotate the propeller to place the piston at the bottom of the exhaust stroke & you will see the fog pressure turn the prop as it forces the piston to the top. When you see bubbles around the pushrod cover rubber, you know that the crankcase is well lubed..
I just thought of something and i know the answer is probably obvious but i am missing something. I fly all my saitos with a piece of fuel tubing coming off the breather nipple out the bottom of the cowl to to allow for a less messy cleanup while flying. If i am trying to add oil thru that same nipple and spinning the prop wont it be pushing the oil out like it does while i am flying?
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 09-23-2016 at 04:17 AM.
Dead right and the prop turns on it's own as you squeeze the plunger.A couple of hand flicks to check all is good and hit it with a starter.You can get to the after run/flying beer fridge quicker.
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Here is a short video of the clip of the Hangar 9 F4U Corsair 60cc with the Saito FG-84 3-Cylinder. Enjoy!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IK0Sk2Mv1I
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IK0Sk2Mv1I