KMP F-7F Tigercat
#302
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RE: KMP F-7F Tigercat
TR2000,
FIRST, TAKE EVERY SCREW, NUT , BOLT, ETC, APART OFF THE GEARS AND RETRACT MECHINISIMS, AND LOCTITE THEM, ALONG WITH THE SCREWS IN THE WHEELS. THEN TRASH THE TINY SET SCREWS THE RETRACTS CAME WITH AND INSTALL 8-32 SET SCREWS.(MUCH STRONGER) THEN DRILL OUT THE MOUNTING HOLES ON ALL THREE RETRACT MECHINISIMS FOR A #10 X .500 LONG SHEET METAL SCREW TO MOUNT THE GEAR. MY GEAR APPEAR TO BE STRONGER WITH THESE MODS.......
FIRST, TAKE EVERY SCREW, NUT , BOLT, ETC, APART OFF THE GEARS AND RETRACT MECHINISIMS, AND LOCTITE THEM, ALONG WITH THE SCREWS IN THE WHEELS. THEN TRASH THE TINY SET SCREWS THE RETRACTS CAME WITH AND INSTALL 8-32 SET SCREWS.(MUCH STRONGER) THEN DRILL OUT THE MOUNTING HOLES ON ALL THREE RETRACT MECHINISIMS FOR A #10 X .500 LONG SHEET METAL SCREW TO MOUNT THE GEAR. MY GEAR APPEAR TO BE STRONGER WITH THESE MODS.......
#303
RE: KMP F-7F Tigercat
Vkerster,
I found out the same with the set screws when they stripped on me, I too tapped new holes. Opening up the mounting holes hadn't occured to me, I'll defintely try that.
I had to drill holes between wing parts to run servo, air, and remote glow driver lines, I'm a little baffled how KMP thought we would run all these through the wing tubes? What did you guys do?
Cory
I found out the same with the set screws when they stripped on me, I too tapped new holes. Opening up the mounting holes hadn't occured to me, I'll defintely try that.
I had to drill holes between wing parts to run servo, air, and remote glow driver lines, I'm a little baffled how KMP thought we would run all these through the wing tubes? What did you guys do?
Cory
#304
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RE: KMP F-7F Tigercat
Hello N99331v,
I read you have experiece with the RCV sp engines. I was thinking of putting two RCV SP 120's in the T-Cat..what are your thoughts about that?
Are they reliable engines?,
Maybe there is some one else with experience of these engines...please let us know your findings,
Ton
I read you have experiece with the RCV sp engines. I was thinking of putting two RCV SP 120's in the T-Cat..what are your thoughts about that?
Are they reliable engines?,
Maybe there is some one else with experience of these engines...please let us know your findings,
Ton
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RE: KMP F-7F Tigercat
TR2000, ATTEMPTING TO RUN THE WIRING THRU THE WING TUBE IS IMPOSSIBLE, SINCE IT IS BLOCKED ON BOTH ENDS. I HAD TO DRILL THRU THE NACELLE JOINTS TO ROUTE THE WIRING, ETC ALSO. BEFORE YOU GLUE THE WINGS TOGETHER, BE SURE TO SAND THE WING AND NACELLE JOINTS SO THE GLUE GETS A GOOD BITE. ASSUMMING YOU ARE AN EXPERIENCED BUILDER, YOU'LL BE DIGGING DEEP IN YOUR ARSNEAL OF BUILDING TRICKS TO FINISH THIS BIRD........
#306
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RE: KMP F-7F Tigercat
The protoype has a glass fus and built up and tex covered wings and tailplane which is heavier than the composite verion. What did do is mount the battery and lead in the very end of the nose a kept every thing as well forward as possible.
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RE: KMP F-7F Tigercat
I think the RCv and SP engines are a nice choice they sure sound great in the air very smooth after break in and have good low idle. The SP engines are nice but are going to require very large props so if you fly off grass and want to keep it scale looking you may want think about that. The RCV 130 thats coming out soon would be the hot performer to me due to the low weight, very good power and the prop sizes that would look more scale, the 130's would make it perform like a reno racer.
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RE: KMP F-7F Tigercat
T-CAT BROS, LIT THE FIRE ON THE G-26'S. AWESOME.. THEY PULL LIKE A 747. NEED TO INSTALL HARDWOOD BLOCKS FOR THE COWL SCREWS TO BITE INTO.
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RE: KMP F-7F Tigercat
Nice show Vkerster...when it's going to be airborne???? please let us know how it flies.
and what's the weight of your t-cat???
@ n9931v,
what 130 are you talking about? a CD or an SP???
greet's,
Ton
and what's the weight of your t-cat???
@ n9931v,
what 130 are you talking about? a CD or an SP???
greet's,
Ton
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RE: KMP F-7F Tigercat
ok, n9331v thanks.
Do you think the new OS F 200 is an option as well? It weighs less !!! then the OS 120 surpassIII
& Vkerster,
thanks, 26 LB is that ca. 13 kg?
& Blackwidow: for scale props 3 blade you can look maybe to SOLO props ( I don't know the exact website, but look in google to solo props's...)
those are variable pitch i believe....
Ton
Do you think the new OS F 200 is an option as well? It weighs less !!! then the OS 120 surpassIII
& Vkerster,
thanks, 26 LB is that ca. 13 kg?
& Blackwidow: for scale props 3 blade you can look maybe to SOLO props ( I don't know the exact website, but look in google to solo props's...)
those are variable pitch i believe....
Ton
#318
RE: KMP F-7F Tigercat
ORIGINAL: F82FAN
Hey Guys,
I thought I'd jump in here to put in my two cents worth about control systems and servos for the T-cat...
I modified mine to have all internal linkages - I used a nose steering arm and pull-pull cables for the rudder since the fuse is nice and wide - even at the tail end, I have NO clearance issues and am using a 5955TG on the rudder.
On the elevators, I made a 5/32" wire joiner, (just like a control line airplane but heavier duty), and then used a carbon fiber rod from Central Hobbies (made for Pattern boys) and put it all on a nice HD digital servo from Hitec to operate it.
Yes, things will get mighty interesting if I EVER have to try to get back there to fix or adjust, but it is SO nice to look at - and that's why we bought these beauties, right? I just couldn't bring myself to do it the exposed factory way.
In closing, I think the issue with the 635/645 Hitec is correct.... I have a bunch of them that I used on a couple of different birds, and they were so bad, I sent 'em back for repair - but they all came back "fine". I won't use ANYTHING with a carbonite gear again. Those things strip out just by looking at 'em. Pay a couple of bucks more and go digital - it will change the way you (and your planes) fly!
I will post pics of my mods ASAP. Looks like I'm behind most of you on the build time-line.
I REALLY appreciate the gear door pics - you guys are awesome!
See Ya,
F82FAN
Hey Guys,
I thought I'd jump in here to put in my two cents worth about control systems and servos for the T-cat...
I modified mine to have all internal linkages - I used a nose steering arm and pull-pull cables for the rudder since the fuse is nice and wide - even at the tail end, I have NO clearance issues and am using a 5955TG on the rudder.
On the elevators, I made a 5/32" wire joiner, (just like a control line airplane but heavier duty), and then used a carbon fiber rod from Central Hobbies (made for Pattern boys) and put it all on a nice HD digital servo from Hitec to operate it.
Yes, things will get mighty interesting if I EVER have to try to get back there to fix or adjust, but it is SO nice to look at - and that's why we bought these beauties, right? I just couldn't bring myself to do it the exposed factory way.
In closing, I think the issue with the 635/645 Hitec is correct.... I have a bunch of them that I used on a couple of different birds, and they were so bad, I sent 'em back for repair - but they all came back "fine". I won't use ANYTHING with a carbonite gear again. Those things strip out just by looking at 'em. Pay a couple of bucks more and go digital - it will change the way you (and your planes) fly!
I will post pics of my mods ASAP. Looks like I'm behind most of you on the build time-line.
I REALLY appreciate the gear door pics - you guys are awesome!
See Ya,
F82FAN
F82FAN, are you saying you put the 5955 in the tail? I have a bunch I bought and plan on using them on teh Ailerons rudder and elev, for the flaps I use some futaba 9304's 70 oz torq and kinda slow so flaps are a good fit for them.
An observation. since there is no exit hole in the bottom of the center section for the all the servos in the wing and it looks like hte receiver goes in the nose section, that is a looongg servo wire lead. So 2 things are you using the ferrite rings on the leads and where in hte venter section did you cut the exit? Of course I can put one anywhere, but I wanted know where you guys have.
Thanks
#319
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RE: KMP F-7F Tigercat
T-CAT BROS, HARDWOOD BLOCKS ARE NEEDED TO SECURE THE COWL SCREWS. I USED 1/2 IN. X 5/8X5/8 BLOCKS. THE SCREWS STARTED BACKING OUT OF THE COWL ABOUT 10 MIN. AFTER THE INITIAL START UP. DON'T FORGET TO INSTALL THEM BEFORE INSTALLING THE TANK OR YOU'LL HAVE A TERRIBILE TIME INSTALLING THEM.....
#320
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RE: KMP F-7F Tigercat
T-CAT BROS, UPON INSTALLING THE RETRACT HARDWARE, I FOUND NO AIR VALVE IN THE FILLER CHUCK, SO THE AIR WILL ESCAPE AS FAST AS YOU PUT IT IN. ASLO, THE SCREW CONNECTOR TO LINK UP THE AIR LINE FROM THE MAINS TO THE AIR LINE IN THE FUSE HAS A HOLE 1 TURN OF THREAD TO SECURE 90 PSI. I'M SCRATCHING MY HEAD ON WHERE THE FACTORY'S MIND WAS ON ENGINEERING THIS MESS. HAVE SHELVED THIS STUFF AND AM GOING WITH A ROBART AIR VALVE, FILLER CHUCK, MASTER VALVE AND AIR LINES.....[&:]
#322
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RE: KMP F-7F Tigercat
T-CAT BROS, 99% DONE WITH THE MATING OF THE KMP RETRACTS AND ROBART HARDWARE, WILL POST PICS SOON. HAVE ABOUT 4 HRS. ON THE G-26'S, 3 HRS. ON THE AIRFRAME. NO ISSUES APPARENT WITH AIRFRAME USING THESE ENGINES. THE G-26'S PULL LIKE A BULL, VERY IMPRESSIVE. 12 OZ. OF FUEL EASILY LASTS 20 MIN., NO SLIME, AND $3.00 A GAL. FOR 93 OCTANE. APPEARS TO BE A GREAT MATCH. HOPE TO HAVE A TRIP TO THE FLYING FIELD SOON.........
#323
RE: KMP F-7F Tigercat
Looking forward to the pics!
Looks like I'll be cutting some small holes in the nacelles for the 170's rocker arms. I really thought hard about having Fiberglas Spec. doing new cowls that would not have as much taper at the cowl opening so the 170's would fit without having the rocker arms tight against the nacelle walls. The engines fit within an 1/8 of having the propface positioned perfectly so the cowl mods will be minimal. I just can't see spending more time and money on the cowls.
What I am doing to mount the 170s is this: I removed the stock mounting hardware, I placed two 1/8 x 1 x 3 inch T6 bar in the place of the original mounts. Then using 4 engine standoffs I mounted the 170 to the nacelle. This allowed me to center the engine and have the mounts fit in the nacelle firewall area.
Looks like I'll be cutting some small holes in the nacelles for the 170's rocker arms. I really thought hard about having Fiberglas Spec. doing new cowls that would not have as much taper at the cowl opening so the 170's would fit without having the rocker arms tight against the nacelle walls. The engines fit within an 1/8 of having the propface positioned perfectly so the cowl mods will be minimal. I just can't see spending more time and money on the cowls.
What I am doing to mount the 170s is this: I removed the stock mounting hardware, I placed two 1/8 x 1 x 3 inch T6 bar in the place of the original mounts. Then using 4 engine standoffs I mounted the 170 to the nacelle. This allowed me to center the engine and have the mounts fit in the nacelle firewall area.