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Old 07-11-2015, 01:20 PM
  #3351  
Trent3786
 
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A couple more shots from yesterday.

The warm up flight with my 90mm edf viper jet. This is where the cold was coming from.


Only moments after the first flight


Nice shot from the 2nd landing showing the heat haze.
Old 08-15-2015, 09:20 PM
  #3352  
Johnny9390
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Which batteries shoukd i use? A123 or Nimh? Which size recommended? Also whats a good receiver to use with my DX 18. Using hitec servos and got the programmer so thinnking of using Y for the airlerons and Flaps. Are you using two bstteries for the rx? And which bsttery for the PST 600R.?
Old 08-15-2015, 10:18 PM
  #3353  
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Originally Posted by Johnny9390
Which batteries shoukd i use? A123 or Nimh? Which size recommended? Also whats a good receiver to use with my DX 18. Using hitec servos and got the programmer so thinnking of using Y for the airlerons and Flaps. Are you using two bstteries for the rx? And which bsttery for the PST 600R.?
I'm using two 2S LiFe 2100mah packs in parallel for redundancy each with their own switch. I also use a DX18 and I am using the AR9020 9 channel receiver which is one channel short for me so i have the rudder and steering on the same channel. Ailerons are on different channels and so are flaps so no y-leads except for rudder and steering.

Battery for my Jetcat P60 is a 2S LiPo 3000mah single pack which seems to last 6-7 flights.
Old 08-16-2015, 07:31 AM
  #3354  
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Also have a question. I got carried away with the built kit I bought. The guy was gonna glass the whole wing so I totally over looked the fact that he didn't put the strip of fiberglass down the wings where they join. I already covered the wings. Do you think it will be a big deal?? Should I remove the covering and add that strip of fiberglass??
here are a few pics of my wings
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Old 08-16-2015, 07:33 AM
  #3355  
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Also when I got this bird the guy built a very nice box for the plane. Feel bad throwing it away. Anyone want it to be able to transport their reaction?
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Old 08-16-2015, 07:38 AM
  #3356  
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What did you use for a regulator for those Lipo packs to bring the voltage down? Or are you using Hv servos?

Originally Posted by Trent3786
I'm using two 2S LiFe 2100mah packs in parallel for redundancy each with their own switch. I also use a DX18 and I am using the AR9020 9 channel receiver which is one channel short for me so i have the rudder and steering on the same channel. Ailerons are on different channels and so are flaps so no y-leads except for rudder and steering.

Battery for my Jetcat P60 is a 2S LiPo 3000mah single pack which seems to last 6-7 flights.
Old 08-16-2015, 08:01 AM
  #3357  
BruceTharpe
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Originally Posted by Johnny9390
Also have a question. I got carried away with the built kit I bought. The guy was gonna glass the whole wing so I totally over looked the fact that he didn't put the strip of fiberglass down the wings where they join. I already covered the wings. Do you think it will be a big deal?? Should I remove the covering and add that strip of fiberglass??

Oh man, that's a tough call. The structure in the center of the wing is pretty stout. There are two 1/4" plywood dihedral braces to tie the spars together. The glass strip is kind of a nod to tradition... It does tie together all of the balsa sheeting from one panel to the other. It must add something to the overall strength of the center joint, but I couldn't tell you if it adds 10%, 5% or 1/2%. Personally, I would add the glass strip just for the peace of mind, but I'm open to well-reasoned opinions from other builders.
Old 08-16-2015, 08:06 AM
  #3358  
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The glass adds a LOT of strength in bending about the X axis, being as it exists at the outer fiber of the cross section. It is a rather easy fix to strip some of the covering and add the glass. I say do it. Well worth the effort for the peace of mind you gain.
Old 08-16-2015, 08:12 AM
  #3359  
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Darn i was worried younguys would say that lol!!
Old 08-16-2015, 11:39 AM
  #3360  
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Originally Posted by Johnny9390
What did you use for a regulator for those Lipo packs to bring the voltage down? Or are you using Hv servos?
I assume you mean my LiFe rx packs not LiPo? I don't use a regulator for the 2S LiFe rx packs as they sit at 6.6V which is only a hair above their rated voltage. I'm just using the Hitec servos recommended by Bruce in the build manual and have been using 2S LiFe rx packs with all sorts of non-HV servos in my other planes without a regulator for years and I haven't had any failures
Old 08-16-2015, 04:36 PM
  #3361  
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Ah ok never used Life packs. Always used A123 on all my jets without any issues.
Old 08-16-2015, 05:37 PM
  #3362  
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Add the glass...there is too much money, work and risk for not doing it.

DRS
Old 08-17-2015, 04:20 AM
  #3363  
drac1
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Originally Posted by Trent3786
I assume you mean my LiFe rx packs not LiPo? I don't use a regulator for the 2S LiFe rx packs as they sit at 6.6V which is only a hair above their rated voltage. I'm just using the Hitec servos recommended by Bruce in the build manual and have been using 2S LiFe rx packs with all sorts of non-HV servos in my other planes without a regulator for years and I haven't had any failures
As long as the servo is rated for 6V (5 cell), there is no need for a reg when using Life's.
Old 08-18-2015, 09:12 AM
  #3364  
flyinfool1
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+1 more
I would add the glass, especially if you like to do aerobatics and pull some G's.

Since many of these planes end up needing significant nose weight, I put in 3 monster batteries instead of lead weight. I ended up with just 3 oz of lead in the nose, with a P70 hanging out the rear. If I need weight I like to at least make it useful.

Last edited by flyinfool1; 08-18-2015 at 09:18 AM.
Old 08-21-2015, 07:45 PM
  #3365  
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Ok I added the glass to the center section, now question for all you great monokotors. What's the best way to prep the fiberglass so the monokote adheres to the fiberglass without too much ugliness. Is there a way to smooth it out with something that will let the monokote adhere to it? I heard balsa rite not too good for this as it was made for coverite not monokote?!
Old 08-21-2015, 08:55 PM
  #3366  
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No Balsarite or any other sticky stuff. Just sand the glass (resin) with 320 enough to remove the gloss. Clean thoroughly with alcohol or lacquer thinner. Iron on Monokote, relatively cool temp on iron, work slow.
Old 08-22-2015, 04:11 AM
  #3367  
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Originally Posted by Johnny9390
Ok I added the glass to the center section, now question for all you great monokotors. What's the best way to prep the fiberglass so the monokote adheres to the fiberglass without too much ugliness. Is there a way to smooth it out with something that will let the monokote adhere to it? I heard balsa rite not too good for this as it was made for coverite not monokote?!
Balsarite has two formulas, one for fabric and one for plastic. If the glass has been sanded smooth, you can use Ultrakote instead of Monokote. Ultrakote uses lower heat to apply than Monokote....

Larry/Instructor
Old 08-22-2015, 06:14 AM
  #3368  
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Ok thanks i was also thinking of using the monokote sheets that are like stickers. Will try the monokote today and if that doesnt work will revert to the sticker sheets
Old 08-22-2015, 06:15 AM
  #3369  
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And Bruce i got the motor mount i will ship out the other one back tomyou first thing minday morning! Thanks bud!
Old 08-22-2015, 08:58 AM
  #3370  
Johnny9390
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Wings done. Came out good!
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Old 08-22-2015, 01:47 PM
  #3371  
redtail
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Hello Bruce and fellow 54 owners, need your help. Bruce not sure if you rec'd my latest email so I am sorry if this is a repeat. I just started the kit I received from you not so long ago. I hurt my hand badly and had to wait it out (to begin healing). As I have mentioned to you casually before, both on RCU and by email, I would like to make the 54's stab/elevator an anhedral set-up like the F-4. I would like to construct a negative 12 degree drop in the stab. Thus, I will be splitting the elevators, so could you please send me another cable/plastic tube pushrod set-up? You could send me a Paypal invoice at my email address for the payment of cost and shipping. I will make 3 G-10/plywood 1/4" or 3/8" 12 degree angled sandwich's running 5" to 10" long with the constructed 12 degree angle cut and glued into the horizontal width of the stab to implement and support the negative anhedral. I will also glass the stab as well as the whole airframe. I will use two servos for the split elevators, therefore, I may widen the fuse exit to assist getting the two elevator cables out. One of the guys on RCU mentioned the possible need to couple the anhedral elevators with another control surface, could anyone school me on what other surface and number of degrees of mixing to begin experimenting with? I have your read and read again, your last bit of advice from here and your emails. Do you possibly have any more suggestions? P.S. The electric retracts look pretty kool. Many thanks. Chic
Old 08-22-2015, 08:37 PM
  #3372  
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Chic, will take care of you via email. PayPal quote is on my to-do list for Sunday...
Old 08-23-2015, 06:56 AM
  #3373  
George
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Originally Posted by redtail
Hello Bruce and fellow 54 owners, need your help. Bruce not sure if you rec'd my latest email so I am sorry if this is a repeat. I just started the kit I received from you not so long ago. I hurt my hand badly and had to wait it out (to begin healing). As I have mentioned to you casually before, both on RCU and by email, I would like to make the 54's stab/elevator an anhedral set-up like the F-4. I would like to construct a negative 12 degree drop in the stab. Thus, I will be splitting the elevators, so could you please send me another cable/plastic tube pushrod set-up? You could send me a Paypal invoice at my email address for the payment of cost and shipping. I will make 3 G-10/plywood 1/4" or 3/8" 12 degree angled sandwich's running 5" to 10" long with the constructed 12 degree angle cut and glued into the horizontal width of the stab to implement and support the negative anhedral. I will also glass the stab as well as the whole airframe. I will use two servos for the split elevators, therefore, I may widen the fuse exit to assist getting the two elevator cables out. One of the guys on RCU mentioned the possible need to couple the anhedral elevators with another control surface, could anyone school me on what other surface and number of degrees of mixing to begin experimenting with? I have your read and read again, your last bit of advice from here and your emails. Do you possibly have any more suggestions? P.S. The electric retracts look pretty kool. Many thanks. Chic
Although not a Reaction, but years ago I didn't have to "couple" my anhedral elevators to any other surface. I'm not even sure why someone would suggest it is necessary. Do they do that on the F-4s?

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Old 08-23-2015, 04:59 PM
  #3374  
redtail
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Bruce you are a "True Professional" and a "MAN of your word". I just sent a Paypal payment. Thank you. Not hearing any further comments from you,I shall move on with my anhedral stab/elevators plan for the 54.

George, thanks for the support. That airframe looks great with the anhedral stab/elevators. Chic

Last edited by redtail; 08-23-2015 at 05:05 PM.
Old 08-25-2015, 07:20 AM
  #3375  
flyinfool1
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Hmmmmmm
The anhedral stab idea sounds cool, cant wait to see pics of it.

Someday when / IF my R54 ever gets worn out or has a big boo boo, This gives me the idea of building the next one as a V-Tail. It will be heavily kit bashed. I wonder if there is room to build an inverted V-Tail, kind of like on the Predator Drone...........?

I'll shut up now, was just thinking out loud.


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