w4sm

Alan,

Nice video and nice flying by Ali. On landing, it looks like Ali was running a little reflex up in the ailerons with full flap. Could you let us know how much the ailerons were reflexed and how much if any down elevator was mixed in with full flap? Thanks!

aaflyer

My Feedback: (121)

Finally got my maiden on the Nano today, pretty much a non-event, 1 click of ail trim. The Dreamworks Pro-Link Gear works flawlessly. Never should have sold my Intro.

Doksa

I noticed that you have a spacer under your front retracts.
Are these the Dreamworks retracts?
I am currently building my Nano W/ MW44 Gold

Turbinac

Stacey,
Ali does not like to use much crow on the Nano, but that is my personal model and I like just about 7 or 8 degrees up on both ailerons mixed with around 10% down elevator as the flap comes down. Just enough to balance the nose pitch up when the flap is used as an air brake.
Model jets don't come more forgiving than the Nano, so set it up to your own preferences, it's easy to do if you start out as in the manual page 16!

SAP_2000

Hi[sm=regular_smile.gif]
I am just about to hit the "buy now" button on the NANO and would like your input on what's the best gear for the Nano and why?
I fly from both asphalt and grass runways. I also may put skies on it as this will be my winter/ local strip/ bush jet.

1: The [link=http://alshobbies.com/shop/lookupstock.php?pc=39412&Desc=du+bro+tank]Pro Lynx gear[/link] made by Digitech. Cost is 305 GB£ ex tax. = 490 US$
2: The [link=http://dreamworksrc.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1286]Pro Link gear[/link] by Dreamworks RC with [link=http://dreamworksrc.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=64_78&products_id=335]Airpower 2 3/4" wheels and brakes + NW[/link]. Cost: 453 US$ = 283 GB£
3: What about the [link=http://dreamworksrc.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1391]Airpower gear[/link] also sold by Dreamworks?? Cost 450 US$ = 280 GB£

What wheels and brakes come with the Digitech gear??
Will 2 3/4" wheels fit the wheel wells?
I see the Airpower set comes with 2 1/4" wheels... I can't find those wheels in the web shop, but I guess those wheels are also possible with the Pro Link gear...

I know Dreamworks has a package with Intairco wheels, but they are more expensive and the tires are very hard...
Thanks for your help!!

BaldEagel

Can't talk for the Nano gear, but on my Elan I have had both the Digitech and Dreamworks sets.

The Dreamworks had the Intairco wheels which I found rather heavy, also the Dreamworks struts are fragile for my patch, one broke at the adjustment hole the other bent, both where replaced by Todd at Dreamworks at no charge.

The Digitech gear has stood up to the abuse given to it on my patch so far, except for the steering pin retention circlip groove giving way, the wheels and disc brakes are lighter, work excellently and look better. I am able to hold the Elan prior to take off up to 3/4 power on my 120SX, this makes for short take offs on half flap, and Sandor guarantees his gear for life, replaced the steering pins without question.

Mike

lov2flyrc

My Feedback: (24)

Staale,
We can package the Nano gear set with Intairco, BVM sport, BVM Ultralight or Airpower wheels, choice is yours.
2 1/4" is the largest wheel that will fit in the well.

gruntled

I am plodding along through my Nano build as time permits. I had posted earlier that I could not find the CA hinges because when I looked at them quickly in the hardware bag, I thought they were the self-adhesive rings, referred to in the instruction manual, which get installed over the wing bolt holes. Now, I am at the point in the manual where I would apply the self-adhesive rings, and darn if i can find them!! They are probably staring me in the face like the hinges were, but . . .

Were they in the hardware bag, or ?? What color are they?

Steve

PS - look at it this way, I am saving a bunch of other people the trouble of asking all the stupid questions.

.

BaldEagel

Steve

The self adhesive rings are on an oblong piece of white sheet material and are stamped into the surface, but don't worry to much about them, they fall off after a while. LOL.

gruntled

Thanks Mike. I haven't come across them yet, but it sounds like it is no great loss.

bigandy

Has anyone had to adjust the thrustline on their Nano? Mine seems to have a bit of a pitch up tendancy when throttle is applied. If I trim the plane out at low throttle settings, it is quite pronounced at full throttle. If I trim it out for level flight at higher throttle settings, then the nose drops at lower settings. I was thinking of trying a washer or two under the front bolts holding down the little Wren 44.

Also, has anyone attempted to mix out the really strong yaw/roll coupling when applying rudder?

Cheers
Andy

gruntled

Same here - rudder hinge slots were way too shallow and yes, that wood is hard as nails.

gruntled

Once the airplane is assembled and the various equipment is installed, how accessible are the two holes on the top of the center wing section where all the servo leads exit from. Is this a good spot to "T" the various air lines from the retracts or should it be done farther "upstream"? My concern is will that location be accessible later if there is a problem?

Steve

lov2flyrc

My Feedback: (24)

I did mine under the main wheel well, easier to get to if needed.

gruntled

hmmm . . . did you use the wheel well liners? I have the wheel well liners in with screws, so I guess it would be easy enough to get in there again if need be.

BoomerangGuy

Hi guys
I love the new boomerang nano and wasn't sure if I should put a Wren 44 GOLD or a jetcat p-60.
Is there any difference apart from the thrust or any problems with them? And does the wren have
a onboard starting gas bottle?
Cheers
George

gruntled

I got all the control surfaces finished and to the point in the assembly where I put the wing sections, booms and elevator together for the first time. Looks straight forward enough, but I had a rather frustrating time of it. Here are the problems I ran into:

1) The bolt holes for the elevator did not line up on the right hand side. The left were fine. I double-checked to make sure everything was seated correctly, but the holes were defenitely not lining up. In the end, I had to trim a mm or two of the skin around the hole on the right hand side of the elevator where the top of the right boom inserts. This finally let the holes line up.

2) I ran into a bigger problem with the silver-colored rods that align and hold the outer wing panels. The ones at the leading edge were fine, but the two toward the trailing edge did not want to insert past the hole in the wing where the bolts screw in to hold the wing in place. It is as if the threaded sleeve was down too far and keeping the rod from inserting as far as it should. After considerable twisting and cajoling the rod slid in past the bolt holes and allowed the wing to slide all the way on. However, they were still really tight in terms of sliding the rods in or out. The second time I tried to slide the rear rod into the wing, the pressure it required caused the rod to go in too far and it broke whatever was on the end of that tube to stop the rod from sliding in too far. I don't know if it is another wood disc like the ones used for the main wing tube? Anyhow, now the rear rod on the right wing slides in too far now. Arggghhhhh! What should I do about this? something similar to the mod for the main wing tube?

3) But wait - troubles don't end there - its gets worse. I seem to have stripped the left rear threaded sleeve for the bolt to hold the outer wing panel. The bolt goes in and turns and turns but won't grab. The rest of them are fine. I assume the bolt is supposed to go into the sleeve and then grab into the metal rod to hold the wing panel in place. The bolt was sticking up well above the top surface of the wing, so I tried to tighen it down and . . . . STRRRRRRIP. I would not have thought the bolts were supposed to stick up above the wing surface - apparently I was wrong. Please give me any suggestions on what I can do about the stripped threaded sleeve. Obviously there is no way I can fly it without the wings holding on tight.

It was one of those very unexpectedly frustrating nights. I expected bolting the wings together to be a non-event.

Wayne22

My Feedback: (2)

Did you screw the rods into the center section?? If this were done, it is actually part of the wing center section structure and I can't see how it could go in too far.... or maybe I'm not understanding the problem correctly....

As for the stripped bolt, it sounds like a little surger is in order. I would make a small hole in the lower wing surface and see how it is attached...I'm guessing it is a blind nut. You could either replace it, or simply build another one somewhere else along the rod....

gruntled

No. I didn't. I looked at the manual, and it did not show them threading in. But that solves that problem!

Are the bolts on the top of your outer-wing panels well above the top skin of the wing?

Steve

Jim Cattanach

Regarding the bolts holding on the wings. One will be fine for length & the other will stick up. Just shorten the one that is too long.

gruntled

Ok - thanks gents. Obviously, I turned a couple of smaller problems into bigger ones. My buddy suggested that perhaps I might re-tap the threaded sleeves (or blind nuts - whatever they are) for the next larger imperial size up from 3mm - 4-40 or 6/32 or whatever it is. I will probably give that a go as it is easier than doeing surgery to replace the sleeve and if it doesn't work then I am no worse off.

He said there were probably a couple of burrs in there that were keeping the aluminum rods from sliding all the way in.

.

Wayne22

My Feedback: (2)

It is step 7, on page 6...

I haven't got to putting the bolts in yet, hoping to make some progress today.....

Jim Cattanach

If you have trouble sliding in the threaded rods, just file a slight chamfer on each shoulder of the rods.

BaldEagel

Once you have the rods in place and fully home put the booms and wings on and tighten the bolts this will mark the rods where the bolts go, take off the wings and file a flat on the rod for the bolts to locate onto this will allow the bolts to recess a little lower into the wing.

On the Elan after a few flights the rods loosen in the center section and allow the tail to move up and down, the solution is to Hysol them into place, or at least that is what some of us have done on the Elan thread.

Mike

gruntled

D'oh! You are correct, sir! I had moved past that part a few days ago without screwing them in and I was looking at step 17 last night.