Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Good for 210 rpm on the Saito 150 S and about 260,on the Saito 62. They have a really cool sound, though not loud.

acdii

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Simpler yet, nice.

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

Guys it is hard to prime my 200ti. I pretty much have to squirt some fuel in the carb and it start right up and runs like a champ after that. Getting fuel to the carb the normal way does not work. Any suggestion?

acdii

Have you tried inverting the plane to prime it? I have a Gemini 120 that if I put the tank too high it dribble fuel when not running, and where the tank gets placed to not dribble, it is difficult to start, but runs fine once started. I inverted the plane to get fuel to the carb, then flipped it over to start.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I no longer have a .91 but here is where the LS needle is on my 100
h the

sailr

My Feedback: (25)

I have a saito with a stripped gow plug hole in the cylinder head. Is there an easy fix like a helicoil? I hate to think of disassembling everything and trying to replace the head or is it the entire cylinder? Any help appreciated. Thanks.

With the low price of nitro engines today, I may just sell mine as a parts engine and buy another used one. Just sayin.

triumphman49

My Feedback: (149)

believe Clarence Lee is the most recommended fix for stripped plug threads.

Lee Custom Engines
10112 Woodward Ave
Sunland, Ca 91040

818-352-3766


you didn't say what size your Saito is?

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

sailr, which engine is it?

One option that is much better than Helicoils is called Timesert.

RC Glow plug thread repair 1/4-32 glow plug spark plug

I was thinking of getting the kit, but the installation gear is much more than the inserts, (you usually get 4 with the kit) and don't repair enough to justify. If you can find someone that has it already much less expensive.

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

Thanks for the suggestion. No, I have not tried that. Will try next time I am out!

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

Lee is great. I sent him a saito 200ti head and he fixed it right up! He even left me a personal note. I left him a great review on google.

Captcrunch44

what size is it? If it’s something i have I could trade you even up

SrTelemaster150

Lower the position of the remote needle valve in relation to the fuel tank. That is why they supplied a remote needle valve due to the fact that the usual inverted mounting position places the carburetor below the C/L of the fuel tank.

Rudolph Hart

Hey sailor no offence intended here but you sound pretty lazy.People want to know how big your saito is so fair warning here...bruce(acdc) likes star war movies and ray guns...and 50,000v high quality taser guns,your cojones are on the line here pal.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

This kit appears to be for our rc engines

TIME-SERT Inch Kit 1/4-32 GLOW PLUG KIT Part # 0142SP

The SP makes it different than the one you show in that it has a copper coating and is only .180" long, that has to mean the outside threads. The .180" would be scary short,for the inside threads.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Hobbsy, that was the one I linked to earlier. Only problem here is the total kit is over $100 with 4 inserts included.

I first used these in the auto trade back in the 90's, repairing the end results of the industry "100K miles before your first tune-up" binge. Not a huge problem with cast heads, but alloy really suffered.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

It's one of those tools I'd like to have but I've never stripped the threads in a glow head. On a Saito the price is barely cheaper,than a new cylinder.

Captcrunch44

Yeah boy
that is cool, used a lot of those on the tritun V10.
They work really good in that Application definitely would be better than a helical in a Saito.

badfrogg

Hello all, I'm new here.
I am doing a Saito 180 CDI on methanol conversion and got to the part were I was ready to flip the prop. That's when I discovered that putting the magnet directly into the prop hub was a mistake. Turns out that the hub slip no matter how ridiculously tight you make it.

I decided to tap a 5mm grub screw into the hub and ground a little flat spot in the crank shaft. I dont know though... Maybe I should have just got the damn adjustable magnet ring that clamps on. Have any of you guys managed to pin down the prop hub successfully. I have not tried my grub screw yet. I had to buy a longer screw because I felt the the short one that I had was not engaging enough threads.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

BF, check this out, this is how Saito does it on the FG series you're on the right track.

badfrogg

That is interesting. I would have though that the grub screw would shear easily. I guess my seat of the pants engineering wasn't as bad as I thought.

cubfloater

My Feedback: (5)

its on an older 48 I believe and tried everything from heating to soaking in oil and rust busters to carb cleaners. This is the first one that heat wouldn't take car of. There's an o ring where it attaches that appears will be damaged if I remove it like if I want to bake it in the oven. Is it a regular o ring that is easily replaced? Thanks for any suggestions.

Jim

cubfloater

My Feedback: (5)

and I guess I could try freezing it then dumping into hot water? Or maybe I have another I can use off of!

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

hi Jim, my name is Jim

I just had the same problem (on what OF may call, a dirty 2St), I soaked the Carb in this for a week "fuel", didn't work, soaked it in that for a week "degreaser", didn't work, soaked it in this for a week "denatured alcohol", didn't work,,, heated it with a propane torch 3 different times, 1 long, 2 longer time, 3 longest time, didn't work, the barrel would not turn, not come out,, then I took a 3mm screw and screwed it into the barrel and grabbed it's head with pliers and pulled and the barrel popped out, it made a snap sound when it broke free,

so, once I cleaned the barrel and Carb and oiled it with ATF and reinstalled the barrel the barrel felt very gritty as it turned, I cleaned it more and still it felt gritty, well I cleaned it and cleaned inside and out and it still felt gritty,,, so I got annoyed (don't get annoyed), I figured it was my last resort and I lightly used, used-600 grit sand paper on the barrel and a bit in the Carb and guess what ? it's smoother but not great, I think the barrel is tight enough so it wont leak, but it really should have a better Carb,

sO, you can do all that I did, but most likely some one else know's better,

good luck

Jim

SrTelemaster150

Other way around. Heat and drop into ice water. I've seen rusted breech plugs in old muzzle loaders freed up that way.