Welcome to Club SAITO !
#3601
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AH-HA!!!!!!!!!!!
I was right!
You tried to trick me!
I had a happy involvement flying NE Sport-Aires back in the '80s.
In fact I just recently ran down an original kit.
I can't say enough about NE products of that era.
Don't have any experience with current day.
All prices are show $TBD.
Any idea what these will sell for Bill?
JLK
I was right!
You tried to trick me!
I had a happy involvement flying NE Sport-Aires back in the '80s.
In fact I just recently ran down an original kit.
I can't say enough about NE products of that era.
Don't have any experience with current day.
All prices are show $TBD.
Any idea what these will sell for Bill?
JLK
#3602
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John:
That’s not “Trickery,†mentioning the wing span is called “Misdirection.â€
I’ve been dealing with NE-Aero for about five years now, I have yet to see anything that was not first class come from them.
I have long recommended the Twin-Air 45 as a first twin, and all who have built one have been very pleased.
I am starting a build thread, it will be in the “Twins and Multis†forum, you and everybody else are welcome to join in. Advance warning, I’m going to try having it ready this weekend for Multis over McDonough, the thread may lag behind a bit. Ready or not, I’ll take it along to show it off.
Bill.
That’s not “Trickery,†mentioning the wing span is called “Misdirection.â€
I’ve been dealing with NE-Aero for about five years now, I have yet to see anything that was not first class come from them.
I have long recommended the Twin-Air 45 as a first twin, and all who have built one have been very pleased.
I am starting a build thread, it will be in the “Twins and Multis†forum, you and everybody else are welcome to join in. Advance warning, I’m going to try having it ready this weekend for Multis over McDonough, the thread may lag behind a bit. Ready or not, I’ll take it along to show it off.
Bill.
#3603
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John:
Sorry, missed one answer. John says the Twin Air 60 will be a little under $400, the single engine "Sport Air 1.20" somewhat less.
Bill.
Sorry, missed one answer. John says the Twin Air 60 will be a little under $400, the single engine "Sport Air 1.20" somewhat less.
Bill.
#3605
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Sorry chaps...I just remembered there was this thread around but posted the undermentioned email in the main section. I would appreciate any help you guys can provide.
QUOTE:
Hi,
I have just bought a brand new SAITO 450 (3-cylinder) engine. Unfortunately, the instruction sheet that came with the engine was not that of the Saito 450. Can anybody help me out by sending me a digital copy of the instruction manual for this engine, please?
Any help would be most welcomed.
Thank you
Reuben
UNQUOTE
William if you are watching this I just received the Saito over the weekend that my in-law brought from the US for me. Unfortunately, the wrong instruction sheet was included (the FA-900R3 one was included instead).
By the way the KELEO ring exhaust is fantastic.....excellent workmanship and Kelvin was dead on time with delivery. Excellent service.
Anyway if anybody can help will be appreciated.
Thanks all
Reuben
QUOTE:
Hi,
I have just bought a brand new SAITO 450 (3-cylinder) engine. Unfortunately, the instruction sheet that came with the engine was not that of the Saito 450. Can anybody help me out by sending me a digital copy of the instruction manual for this engine, please?
Any help would be most welcomed.
Thank you
Reuben
UNQUOTE
William if you are watching this I just received the Saito over the weekend that my in-law brought from the US for me. Unfortunately, the wrong instruction sheet was included (the FA-900R3 one was included instead).
By the way the KELEO ring exhaust is fantastic.....excellent workmanship and Kelvin was dead on time with delivery. Excellent service.
Anyway if anybody can help will be appreciated.
Thanks all
Reuben
#3606
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Reuben:
Just sent you the Saito Radials manual and the supplements for the FA-90R3 and the FA-450R3
Now edit your post - having your email address in the open is a gigantic invitation to the spammers.
Why didn't I have you listed in Club Saito? You are now on the list as number 314.
Bill.
Just sent you the Saito Radials manual and the supplements for the FA-90R3 and the FA-450R3
Now edit your post - having your email address in the open is a gigantic invitation to the spammers.
Why didn't I have you listed in Club Saito? You are now on the list as number 314.
Bill.
#3608
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Hey guys
I had a great father's day ! The 1.50 ran flawlessly as it should. While other engines all around me suffered in the 95 degree heat and 95 % humidity, my 1.50 ran like a top all day !
I was running a 16x6 master airscrew which I believe was not very efficient , but I'll change that for next time. The rpm's were ok, around 8500, but the pull could have been better. I'm far from dissapointed. I have six Saitos now, from a .30 to a 1.80, and none run quite so well as this one. I'm going to go back and fine adjust all of my valves, the Bill Robinson way.
I'm convinced it makes a world of difference. Two layers of cigarette cellophane ? It's good for something! That's .0015 to .002 , depending on how long they were in someones pocket.
Takes some patience to adjust them this close, but it's worth it. Wow! Talk about smoooothe!
Oh, by the way, the Dave Patrick Ultimate was pretty sweet too.
Wally
I had a great father's day ! The 1.50 ran flawlessly as it should. While other engines all around me suffered in the 95 degree heat and 95 % humidity, my 1.50 ran like a top all day !
I was running a 16x6 master airscrew which I believe was not very efficient , but I'll change that for next time. The rpm's were ok, around 8500, but the pull could have been better. I'm far from dissapointed. I have six Saitos now, from a .30 to a 1.80, and none run quite so well as this one. I'm going to go back and fine adjust all of my valves, the Bill Robinson way.
I'm convinced it makes a world of difference. Two layers of cigarette cellophane ? It's good for something! That's .0015 to .002 , depending on how long they were in someones pocket.
Takes some patience to adjust them this close, but it's worth it. Wow! Talk about smoooothe!
Oh, by the way, the Dave Patrick Ultimate was pretty sweet too.
Wally
#3609
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ok all....engine was returned to me on Thurs 6/15. (About 1 1/2 weeks after I sent it.......not bad)
They replaced the cylinder , reinstalled the rocker arm, with a new rocker arm pin (obviously), new gaskets all around, new glow plug (existing OS "F" plug was ok and returned it too). So....I took and mounted it the my Stearman.......fired on 1st "flip"....runs "BE-I-U-TI-FULLY"........and the best part you say????!!!!
NO CHARGE........................$0.................. ......No Dinero..............so....I guess they arent bad guys after all. I emailed them and thanked them for the service and "customer service".
I suspected a defect in the casting....but....who am I to know for sure.
Anyway....all turned out well....Just thought I would let you know.
BTW William....you misunderstood me....The engine ran through about a half tank (after taking it out of winter storage) and thats when it "broke". I didnt mean to mislead you to think that it has always run about 1/2 tank....and quit.
Thank You for all your input
They replaced the cylinder , reinstalled the rocker arm, with a new rocker arm pin (obviously), new gaskets all around, new glow plug (existing OS "F" plug was ok and returned it too). So....I took and mounted it the my Stearman.......fired on 1st "flip"....runs "BE-I-U-TI-FULLY"........and the best part you say????!!!!
NO CHARGE........................$0.................. ......No Dinero..............so....I guess they arent bad guys after all. I emailed them and thanked them for the service and "customer service".
I suspected a defect in the casting....but....who am I to know for sure.
Anyway....all turned out well....Just thought I would let you know.
BTW William....you misunderstood me....The engine ran through about a half tank (after taking it out of winter storage) and thats when it "broke". I didnt mean to mislead you to think that it has always run about 1/2 tank....and quit.
Thank You for all your input
#3610
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Wkunkel,
Glad to hear that the 1.50 ran so nicely and that the Ultimate was equal to the engine. I was wondering, did you have to put a pump on the engine? If so, which one? If not, how far from the back of the firewall did you position the tank and what size tank did you use?
It is nice to hear a happy ending to a difficult situation. Enjoy your new Saito and airplane
Glad to hear that the 1.50 ran so nicely and that the Ultimate was equal to the engine. I was wondering, did you have to put a pump on the engine? If so, which one? If not, how far from the back of the firewall did you position the tank and what size tank did you use?
It is nice to hear a happy ending to a difficult situation. Enjoy your new Saito and airplane
#3611
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JB:
I did misunderstand you, I thought the engine had quit more than once at 1/2 tank.
Pleased that Horizon took care of you so nicely, and also at your good fortune in their doing so.
Wally:
Glad yours turned out nicely too.
Bill.
I did misunderstand you, I thought the engine had quit more than once at 1/2 tank.
Pleased that Horizon took care of you so nicely, and also at your good fortune in their doing so.
Wally:
Glad yours turned out nicely too.
Bill.
#3612
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re: POST 3321 dd 06/07/2006 posted by SOLAFEIN
Hi Bill. I tried to jump a few pages to see what I have missed in here and in the above mentioned post SOLAFEIN asks you about an updated "copy of your SAITO notes".
Since I am new to SAITO and am trying to get as much info on these engine as possible, would it be much if I, please, ask you to send me a soft copy of these set of notes to me.
Thanks for the support.
Reuben
Hi Bill. I tried to jump a few pages to see what I have missed in here and in the above mentioned post SOLAFEIN asks you about an updated "copy of your SAITO notes".
Since I am new to SAITO and am trying to get as much info on these engine as possible, would it be much if I, please, ask you to send me a soft copy of these set of notes to me.
Thanks for the support.
Reuben
#3613
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Sorry to be a pest but I have one more question which maybe others may chime in too.
OS engines used to produce a book about their 4-stroke engines. Is there anything equivalent (or better) on SAITO engines?
Thanks
Reuben
OS engines used to produce a book about their 4-stroke engines. Is there anything equivalent (or better) on SAITO engines?
Thanks
Reuben
#3615
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Reuben:
RCM published a book on Saito engines, last I heard it was still available. It's about ten years old so many of the current engines aren't there. At the same time, all the techniques apply to the current engines so it's not a total loss.
About eight bucks, can't compare it to the OS book, I've neer seen the OS book.
Bill.
RCM published a book on Saito engines, last I heard it was still available. It's about ten years old so many of the current engines aren't there. At the same time, all the techniques apply to the current engines so it's not a total loss.
About eight bucks, can't compare it to the OS book, I've neer seen the OS book.
Bill.
#3617
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Fly:
23% oil wont hurt anything, it’s a nice conservative blend.
You have to remember the oil, at least in theory, doesn’t burn and the more oil the less true fuel. So the less oil in a given volume, the longer the flight time. You may never notice the time difference between 23% and 18% though.
This same consideration applies to nitromethane. More nitro = less methanol = less endurance. With nitro there’s a trade-off though, as the nitro does burn. But the methanol gives more power per unit volume. The power increase with nitro comes from burning more methanol in the same time period.
As I recall (I wont bother looking it up) Saito wants 20%: I’ve been flying 18% for years and had no problems. But I do assure that it’s no more than 15% synthetic and at least 3% castor oil. Four percent castor would be even better.
Bill.
23% oil wont hurt anything, it’s a nice conservative blend.
You have to remember the oil, at least in theory, doesn’t burn and the more oil the less true fuel. So the less oil in a given volume, the longer the flight time. You may never notice the time difference between 23% and 18% though.
This same consideration applies to nitromethane. More nitro = less methanol = less endurance. With nitro there’s a trade-off though, as the nitro does burn. But the methanol gives more power per unit volume. The power increase with nitro comes from burning more methanol in the same time period.
As I recall (I wont bother looking it up) Saito wants 20%: I’ve been flying 18% for years and had no problems. But I do assure that it’s no more than 15% synthetic and at least 3% castor oil. Four percent castor would be even better.
Bill.
#3619
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rlmcnii
I ended up not using a pump or regulator. The engine was mounted inverted. The tank is about 2'' behind the firewall with the centerline of the tank aligned 1/2 " below the throttle body of the carb. I'm not sure if that's ideal but I'm not changing it. It works. It's not a brand new engine by the way. I'm not sure how much run time it has . I bought it from an estate sale. It looked pretty new, but someone took it apart that shouldn't have. Thus, all the early problems.
Wally
I ended up not using a pump or regulator. The engine was mounted inverted. The tank is about 2'' behind the firewall with the centerline of the tank aligned 1/2 " below the throttle body of the carb. I'm not sure if that's ideal but I'm not changing it. It works. It's not a brand new engine by the way. I'm not sure how much run time it has . I bought it from an estate sale. It looked pretty new, but someone took it apart that shouldn't have. Thus, all the early problems.
Wally
#3620
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I have both books and they are great even for the newer engines. Unfortunately RCM has been out of business for a year and the web page is no longer active. The books can't be had.
#3621
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Welp...found the problem with my Saito .72; one of the adjustable rocker arm cups had a chunk broken-out, and the push-rod wasn't centered. Can I just roll the pushrod on a flat surface to see if any damage was done? I don't know how it was even running at all!
Guess I should prolly replace both cups and pushrods. Nothing is loose, that's the odd part. Could using an electric starter cause this? The engine has never been hydraulic locked from flooding.
I should prolly disassemble the entire engine and see if the cam looks okay too. This is my first 4-stroke, it was given to me by my brother, so I have no history, other than it never ran @ high rpms, but transitioned and ran well.
Thanks for all replies!
Charles
Guess I should prolly replace both cups and pushrods. Nothing is loose, that's the odd part. Could using an electric starter cause this? The engine has never been hydraulic locked from flooding.
I should prolly disassemble the entire engine and see if the cam looks okay too. This is my first 4-stroke, it was given to me by my brother, so I have no history, other than it never ran @ high rpms, but transitioned and ran well.
Thanks for all replies!
Charles
#3622
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R1:
I’ll guess some one put the push rod in wrong side up. Did you notice if the upper end had a short taper before the ball end? If they are installed small end down “Strange things†happen. The socket in the rocker adjusting screw is smaller than the socket in the tappet. The valves can still be adjusted with the push rods reversed, but when the engine is run everything can go to pot.
Rolling he push rod on a flat is about the best way to check for bend, but I doubt you’ll find it bent. If it’s damaged more likely one of the ball ends will be flattened or scored. Give it a close look with a magnifying glass, if it’s OK reuse it. If the other rod is also wrong side up it would be good to inspect that one as well.
Look closely at the other adjuster cup if the push rod was in wrong. Any sign of a crack, replace it.
If you don’t remember which way the push rods were in look at the adjuster cup, there might be a polished line around the outer rim where the rod was rubbing.
Bill.
I’ll guess some one put the push rod in wrong side up. Did you notice if the upper end had a short taper before the ball end? If they are installed small end down “Strange things†happen. The socket in the rocker adjusting screw is smaller than the socket in the tappet. The valves can still be adjusted with the push rods reversed, but when the engine is run everything can go to pot.
Rolling he push rod on a flat is about the best way to check for bend, but I doubt you’ll find it bent. If it’s damaged more likely one of the ball ends will be flattened or scored. Give it a close look with a magnifying glass, if it’s OK reuse it. If the other rod is also wrong side up it would be good to inspect that one as well.
Look closely at the other adjuster cup if the push rod was in wrong. Any sign of a crack, replace it.
If you don’t remember which way the push rods were in look at the adjuster cup, there might be a polished line around the outer rim where the rod was rubbing.
Bill.
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Thanks for the reply, Will. The cup and pushrod end are hammered pathetically. Don't know whether to order a set of pushrods and cups to change both at the same time, send-it-in, or just forget it. It is a real shame...the engine looks new. It does appear the trashed pushrod was in wrong compared to the other side. Don't know if the cam was damaged yet, will have to disassemble a bit further to check. About the only thing I can do there is look for visual scoring, though.
Is horizon the only place to order parts for these engines?
Thanks again.
Charles
Is horizon the only place to order parts for these engines?
Thanks again.
Charles
#3625
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Charles:
Here’s a shot of new push rods for the FA-72, showing the difference in the ends. To the left is the end that’s supposed to sit in the tappet, the tapered end on the right goes to the rocker arm.
If the other rod is in correctly it should be fine. Check it as I said in my last post.
There may be other sources for Saito parts in the USA, but they all have to buy them from Horizon. Might as well save the time and go straight to them.
If you do decide to "Forget it" I'll be happy to fix the engine at my expense, and have another FA-72. I wont even make you pay the postage to send it to me. Seriously, a Saito engine has to be damaged a lot worse than yours is to be not worth fixing.
Bill.
Here’s a shot of new push rods for the FA-72, showing the difference in the ends. To the left is the end that’s supposed to sit in the tappet, the tapered end on the right goes to the rocker arm.
If the other rod is in correctly it should be fine. Check it as I said in my last post.
There may be other sources for Saito parts in the USA, but they all have to buy them from Horizon. Might as well save the time and go straight to them.
If you do decide to "Forget it" I'll be happy to fix the engine at my expense, and have another FA-72. I wont even make you pay the postage to send it to me. Seriously, a Saito engine has to be damaged a lot worse than yours is to be not worth fixing.
Bill.