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Morris Mini Motors in England makes one nearly identical and they are available. I think price is pretty good too. Do a search at their website for “test stand “
https://www.morrisminimotors.com/mor...tand-blue.html
Very simple to make as well
https://www.morrisminimotors.com/mor...tand-blue.html
Very simple to make as well
Last edited by Jesse Open; 05-19-2018 at 04:48 PM.
I need to get around to finishing mine. Have to see if a 4.8v pack will work better with the MPI servos, they chatter with the Life. Also have to give it a once over to make sure it is ready for it's maiden. Has a Saito 91 on it.
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Photos
Here you go guys, photos of my drill and tap job, note how low the hole is drilled, I wanted it a bit low so the Inside Edge would help keep oil away from the Nipple when the Crank Gear is flinging oil upward, the Case is thick enough so the Nipple is flush on the inside of the Case,
the Case will be spray cleaned one last time before I mount the Cam Housing, note my trick in how I will hold the Crank at TDC when mounting the Cam Housing,
BTW, as I said long a go this engine has never been started, and it's manual refers it to a 2004 Version, so the engine was built around that time, yet, when I took the engine apart the Cam Housing Gasket and the Back Plate Gasket were not damage when the parts were separated, I think the Gaskets could be reused, but I have new ones to use, I will save the old ones for a while, that's very impressive for an engine that has set for some 14 years
Jim
Last edited by the Wasp; 05-20-2018 at 10:45 AM.
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
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Jim, is the picture reversed or is the vent on the wrong side for 90 degree mounting, Thanks, Dave
PS, what is letter designation on the right lug, thanks again.
For those who like their wheels to be round and perfect, the Kavan wheels are perfect.
https://sigmfg.com/collections/acces...tandard-wheels
PS, what is letter designation on the right lug, thanks again.
For those who like their wheels to be round and perfect, the Kavan wheels are perfect.
https://sigmfg.com/collections/acces...tandard-wheels
Last edited by Hobbsy; 05-20-2018 at 10:48 AM.
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oops, BTW, note how the digital camera shows how the engine and oil pics up tiny peaces of the paper towel, well I have 2 NIP non fraying cloth rags I will be using tomorrow when spraying off and putting the engine together, slick huu
Jim
Jim
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Dave, here's my Cam Alignment Tool, I made it myself, it took a while, my Dial Calipers are broke, so it was a cut and fit, cut and fit deal, if you look close you may see that it is covered with packaging tap, so it wont scratch the Tappet Boars
Jim
Senior Member
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 05-20-2018 at 11:28 AM.
Senior Member
Just imaging the increased lubrication of the bearings and valve train if you put an outlet check valve in that hole and an inlet check valve in the back plate. Not to mention improved evacuation of condensation from the case due to positive crankcase ventilation..
I would have placed it on the other side for better drainage when mounted horizontally to the starboard side.
I would have placed it on the other side for better drainage when mounted horizontally to the starboard side.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 05-20-2018 at 11:40 AM.
Senior Member
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You can eliminate the rod for holding the crank at TDC by just looping the rubber band around the bottom of the case..
Just imaging the increased lubrication of the bearings and valve train if you put an outlet check valve in that hole and an inlet check valve in the back plate. Not to mention improved evacuation of condensation from the case due to positive crankcase ventilation
Jim
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I would have placed it on the other side for better drainage when mounted horizontally to the starboard side.
you know I went back and forth back in forth in where to place it, at first I wanted to place it where Bill Robison mounted his (on the top of the cam housing), but I could not find a photo of his, then I remembered the 100Ti and just liked it because the Cam would get a lot of oil being below the nipple when the engine is upside down, and the crank gear would not throw oil directly at the nipple because that edge is inside the case, ether way it will be better than on the back
I think you did fine. I position similarly. Not trying to expel so much oil I actually prefer the older style housings as they give more options. If you have spare housings you can swap as needed. At the end of the day you can hold the plane with the vent low, spin the engine and expel the stale engine lube. Tip the other way to introduce ARO and further flush the cam box and bearings. Other folks have other methods, this happens to be my preferred method.
While the dual dual check system is positive the passive venting seems adequate when places well
Due to blow/by pressure, the average case pressure tends to remain positive.
A couple of tool pics pics as well. The obligatory pin type timing tool for small Saito along with another. The plate tool fits the spur gear teeth on big block Saitos This takes the place of the pin tool which is not usable with the big block engines.
I think the main reason for the "54" designation is to set the Four Star 54 ARF apart from the Four Star 40 builder's kit. I built my first Four Star 40 almost 20 years ago. At first it was a bit plain vanilla with the Saito .50 but really came to life with the YS .53! Darn nice Sunday flier.
That one whetted my appetite for the Four Star 60 version. I initially had a Saito .91 on that one but later went to the YS .91AC . I now have the real Four Star 60 ready to go on the board; The Venture 60 by Bruce Tharpe. For old time's sake, it will be sporting a YS.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 05-21-2018 at 04:14 AM.