roaddell

dirby my ops motor had really high compression like that for about a gallon . i was watching a few guys at the rc pro series at the farm 2 run the regulars vspec , but i was curious how that motor ran modded. i messed up my button head that saturday and used a buddy of mine p5 rex it was nice for that main on sunday. a lot of guys were running that nova p5 +5 thats the newest from nova in there p5 line.

rcdriver525

i run the rtr jammin crt with the stock 28 engine and the stock clutch bell. i have almost 2 gallons of fuel thru it and it still runs great, plenty of power and plenty of punch. i am using 30% bryons fuel and it runs great. rcdriver525

vianet

what kind of tires are those on your CRT?

vianet

what kind of tires are those on the CRT?

Dirby

in the instruction manual on the jammin crt there are twu versions for the brake hook up type a
and type b.
which one is the one to use?
a or b?
yhx Dirby.

cause i can

Type A permits you to adjust brake bias front to rear. Type b does not.

Dirby

gotta go with a.
thx Dirby.

_Wyvern_

My Feedback: (7)

Here is the new look for my CRT. I spent six hours today working the new body over... I love this truck! I went through more than a gallon in hard racing and only toasted a clutch bearing

Raketemensch

I'm new to Nitro, although I've been running electrics since about 1983, with about a decade off scattered through those years.

Anyway, I've been putting together a good list of tips from this whole thread, which I'd like to put into a single post if I can clean it up enough. Maybe tomorrow night, sort of a FAQ, where there's only one question: "I took it out of the box, now what?"

But I do have a different question as well -- why do people prefer other starting methods to the shaft start?

PantherDesigns

I've done the pullstart method, the shaft/roto start, you name it. Once I tried the starter box I was hooked. The engines run smoother and provide more power, and seemed a little more reliable as well.


-Seann

Tazer_version_A

removing the roto start is removing one more potential point of failure. It removes excess weight. Depending on the engine, it can remove rotating mass at the end of the CRANK [one way bearing]. Add to that, the sealed backplate is generally accepted as a better way to seal the engine in the rear from air leaks. Air leaks are a tuning nightmare.

If youve ever had a bad one way bearing drop metal shaving and ground metal particles all over your motor - rare I know - but it happened to me - you'll want the roto gone.

Alot of the roto starter motors, are poor electrical apparatus, and their switches fail frequently - again - another point fo failure removed.

dISCOdAN

Hey guys, I have a CR not a CRT, but I'll ask my question anyways lol. I recently put a Hyper 21 race version in my buggy and I'm on the hunt for a good mid to high end pipe for it, looking for people who have 1rst hand experience with racing pipes. I'm new to racing 1/8 buggy this year and I'm slowly building up my machine. Pipe is next on the list. So, ideas anyone?

Raketemensch

Well, someone has agreed to pay my unofficial "BuyItNow" price for a motorcycle I'm selling on eBay, which means I can pick up the CRT this weekend. I'm studying up on all the setup I'll need to do, and it'll be my first engine break-on as well as tuning, so I've been reading all kinds of tips on how to do it I'm going to use the idle method I think, since it's my first time.

Now if only the PayPal payment would arrive.... Anyone know what the odds are of PayPal thinking a $2k payment is "strange" and putting a hold on it?

_Wyvern_

My Feedback: (7)

Has anyone tried the super torsen diff on the Jammin yet?

crazysavage

I have and they dont like excessive horse power...you have excessive horse power. I tried limited slip diffs front and center with a 528XR Hotmod and it was a mess.( sold on ebay) Sold the 528 hotmod a week later for $50 less than I paid for it and it is now shredding the drive train in an underengineered Hellfire(I warned him). A C6 BB is in my truck now and I just rip up the track with stock diffs. Lesson learned>

Dirby

what is a c6 bb?
Dirby

crazysavage

RB Concepts C6 Big Bottom .21
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/5787

canucksrc

What are people adding to the crt? I'm not a big fan of adding things before they break but I'm thinking I need the Z Brace and CVD's for the rear.

Where are people buying parts.

Thanks in advance for the help,
P

PantherDesigns

Carolina's RC is where I go online when I need parts in a hurry. Otherwise I just have my local hobby store order it. Below is a link to the CRT section:

http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idCategory=190

-Seann

_Wyvern_

My Feedback: (7)

Yeah... I have the regular 528XR and have to say that it is "excessive!" I can't imagine the modded version! Thanks for the tip

Revo Destroyer

RTR Or KIT

OK I'm taking the Jammin CRT plunge and am trying figure out which way to go.

IS the RTR going to be breaking on my all the time, should I spend ther extra $300 or so buck to get the kit... Oh I already have the Spektrum radio

PantherDesigns

Well,

Spend the extra $300 and get the CRT Pro.......

The Pro has better components, and the one thing that I absolutely love........captured hinge pins, LOL.

I love my Pro.

-Seann

danny f norman

if money isnt a issue get the kit. i have the rtr and i've beat the crap out of it and the only thing i've broke is the front a-arm (my fault) nailed the boards side ways at full tilt. it's pretty durable

mayhem272

well you need the following for the kit
engine (approx 300 or so)
servos (the stock spektrum servos wont do) these are going to total you almost $200
reciever (if you need to buy one, $80)
hump packs (stock up on a couple of these they are very worth it)
paint job for the bodsy
starter box ($100-$130 with battery, charger, etc, get the ofna chrome top 1/8 scale its awsome)
and a bit of time to build the thing
i spent over $2k just to get mine running, but its good for now

WPGguy

I am picking mine up on WED. (yay 2 days!!! w000t)

I'm glad I came accross this thread, supplied me with a few good links to aftermarket stuff.

And I'm surprised at how FEW people were bashing this thing. Is that cause its new and people havn't grown to hate it yet? or
is this actually a well rounded truggy?

I currently own and OFNA MBX comp buggy, and a savage .32 .... so this will be a nice happy medium.
Not going to have much $ left after the truggy itself, cept maybe a failsafe and a clear body.

I'm forced to get the RTR due to only having like $800 CDN ...
$599 + body + failsafe = $762 with taxes in. and I need a servo for my buggy.

can't be that much of a difference between RTR and kit right? few carbon fibre things and a few other things that are hardned aluminum.
they don't have diffent ammount of bearings n stuff do they?