BoomerangGuy

NiceNano little piston.
I am going to buy a Nano and If I buy a wren 44 gold autostart does it come with a onboard starting gas tank?
cheers
George

Wayne22

My Feedback: (2)

No problem...we are all here to help. In fact, you helped me, because I assumed the wing bolts went in through the bottom, and would have dug holes in the bottom skin looking for them... but now I see they are on top...carefully hidden, but on top....

gruntled

Anytime I can help out by bungling along . . .


Better luck tonight. I was able to use a 3.5mm cap head screw in the 3mm sleeve that I stripped out last night. The outer-wing panels still take more pressure to get on than I would like, and the elevator doesn't line up perfect . . . but these are niggles I can get worked out over time.

BTW- has anybody else dropped the forward screw into the wing? I have one rattling around in there already and almost dropped another in there tonight.

Steve

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gruntled

I am at the point where I need to epoxy the fusleage to the wing center section. In looking at it, it doesn't seem like there is much surface area where the two attach. If I am understanding it correctly, it is just a thin line along the wing saddle of the fuselage that attaches to the upper-skin of the wing - along with the 4 keyed-tabs that insert into the top of the wing. The middle leading edge of the wing center section also looks like it gets glued to the fuselage.

Obviously, the system works just fine because many people have had no trouble with it, but just from looking at it, it makes me wonder a bit how that is enough to hold it all together.

w4sm

I was a little concerned about that as well, but the consensus seems to be that it's fine as it is. I did put some small Aeropoxy filets on the inside of the fuselage where it joins the wing and I added a small block of hard balsa to fill the gap between the front of the wing and the fuselage. The block was glued in with a generous amount of slow cure epoxy. During high-G maneuvers that leading edge area takes most of the load.

Just got my P60se, so completion isn't too far away.

geh3

My Feedback: (84)

I have a WREN SUPER SPORT in mine and it is still working fine ( 18 lbs thrust)

gruntled

I was looking at it tonight, and I think I may use Gorilla Glue to fill the gap. It is strong and light and will expand to fill the void.

Did y'all have a gap along the wing saddle where it meets the fuselage? Mine isn't a perfect tight fit. I can get it tight in the front or the back, but not both. Shouldn't be a big problem as the Hysol should fill the gap.

Steve

BaldEagel

Steve

If you can get it tight at the back or front that seems to indicate the wing is rocking on the seating, this will not matter much as the tail is atached to the wing by the booms and it will not change the declarge too much, but you may have a nose up or down flight path if its bad, rig the airframe and look at it from the side to see how the booms look compared to the fus and glue the centre section in on the line you most prefer.

Mike

gruntled

Thanks Mike - I was hoping (perhaps wrongly) that if I lined up the leading edge as shown in the photo below from Chirs Smith's Nano build thread, that the incidence would be correct without need for further measuring.

Steve

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Turbinac

The incidence of the fuselage is almost immaterial!

The one that matters is the parallel incidence between all the wings and the tailplane. That is automatically set by the way the wings, booms and tail are assembled.

BaldEagel

That is exactly what I said in my post, its the sit of the fus in the air that will change with the different positions of the wing and tail, as the booms are attached to the wing the declarge will not change.

Mike

gruntled

Good point! Thanks Alan.

w4sm

Does anyone know if the Jet-Tech 88 oz tank for the Boomerang Intro would fit in the Boomerang Nano?

http://www.angelfire.com/wi/jettech/page2.html

It would be nice to squeeze in a little more than the 50 oz you can get with a Dubro tank.

Thanks.

Turbinac

Nope, it won't fit. I designed the Nano fuselage around the Dubro 50 ounce tank and it's a perfect fit. I get 12 minutes 40 seconds on the Dubro with a Wren MW44, and almost 7 minutes with a P60. No doubt someone will bring out a tank shaped to fit tighter in the hatch top, but for now it's the Dubro.

w4sm

Thanks, Alan.
Almost 7 minutes on the P60 works for me. I'm usually ready to rest by then anyway!
I'd start with the timer around 5 minutes and sneak up a bit from there depending on the fuel reserves.

geh3

My Feedback: (84)

I get 8 very exciting minutes with my SS powered NANO because I only use part throttle and use full tilt only for spectacular climbs...

H.Dale

My Feedback: (3)

Andy

Did you get an answer to your pitch up question? I have a Wren 54 on my Nano and am having the same problem. When I go to full throttle it climbs pretty steeply.

Hal

geh3

My Feedback: (84)

Make sure that your flap is fully "up" when flying... mine will do that if the flap is down even a little bit!

gruntled

I had to cut a small rectangle in the balsa/ply cross piece on the back of the fuselage to accomodate the head of the bolt that serves as the control horn for the flap, otherwise the flap wouldn't come up all the way.

geh3

My Feedback: (84)

Yes I had to do the same also I offset my control horn a bit so I get almost 90 degrees! the flap acts as a nice brake this way whan all the way down!

gruntled

Question:

In most installs I have seen, people put the pneumatic gear valves on the upper main equipment tray. Do y'all find you need to get to these often? Why not put them below near the air tanks?

I have also noticed about a 50/50 split on putting the fuel pump on the upper tray or the lower. Does the fuel pump need attention often?

Steve

geh3

My Feedback: (84)

I use electronic air valves ( JetTronic ) these can go anywhere and they take up way less space than the traditional servo+mechanical air valve. The JetTronics ones have the additional advantage of throttling the air to allow slower movement of the retracts ( avoids slamming esp going down!)
I put my pump way up front to avoid adding any weight up front to balance
plus I like to be able to see the fuel tubing to ensure there are no bubbles getting into it!

gruntled

Thanks - I have the airpower electronic valves. So, did you put your air valves on the lower level then?

w4sm

A note about electronic valves in general.

I've used the AirPower valves on 2 jets and they've worked flawlessly for me. However, be advised that the 2-way AirPower valve (standard retracts) draws 350 mA's continuously, not the 100 mA's advertised. I've confirmed this on multiple valves. The AirPower 1-way valve (brakes or SpringAir-type retracts) draws 350 mA's when active (brakes on or wheels up).

In contrast the Jetronix 2-way valve draws 100 mA's (as advertised) when active and can be set up to draw no current once in locked up or locked down position. I haven't tested their 1-way valve but assume it's the same.

The current draw on an AirPower 1-way valve used intermittently for brakes is a non-issue, but if you're using it for SpringAir-type retracts, or you're using the 2-way AirPower valve, be sure to allow for the current drain when figuring your battery needs.

geh3

My Feedback: (84)

I put them on the top but could have put them on the bottom