BVM Plug and Play F16
#386
My Feedback: (41)
Oh, for what it's worth; mine is the PNP version.
Last edited by Zeeb; 10-11-2021 at 06:18 PM.
#389
My Feedback: (67)
then i took a long 4-40 bolt and cut the head off and filed a flat on one end (like you would for a wheel axel). That then threads into the fuse with the end with the flat sticking out and to one side. My pylon has a set screw in the side that tightens against that flat. The tank stays mounted to the pylon.
So to install i thread the headless bolts in, then slide the tank/pylon assembly on and tighten the set screw in the pylon. Hope that make sense. The silver paint shows me when to stop screwing the headless bolt in.
Last edited by smchale; 10-12-2021 at 05:58 PM.
#390
My Feedback: (30)
Thank you for sending the information!
Ok that would work but curious how you got up in the fuse or was it empty when you installed the inserts.
My holes are on the back sides of the formers that is impossible to reach with everything installed.
Ok that would work but curious how you got up in the fuse or was it empty when you installed the inserts.
My holes are on the back sides of the formers that is impossible to reach with everything installed.
i mounted a pair of BVM 1” knurled threaded inserts into the bottom of the fuse.
then i took a long 4-40 bolt and cut the head off and filed a flat on one end (like you would for a wheel axel). That then threads into the fuse with the end with the flat sticking out and to one side. My pylon has a set screw in the side that tightens against that flat. The tank stays mounted to the pylon.
So to install i thread the headless bolts in, then slide the tank/pylon assembly on and tighten the set screw in the pylon. Hope that make sense. The silver paint shows me when to stop screwing the headless bolt in.
then i took a long 4-40 bolt and cut the head off and filed a flat on one end (like you would for a wheel axel). That then threads into the fuse with the end with the flat sticking out and to one side. My pylon has a set screw in the side that tightens against that flat. The tank stays mounted to the pylon.
So to install i thread the headless bolts in, then slide the tank/pylon assembly on and tighten the set screw in the pylon. Hope that make sense. The silver paint shows me when to stop screwing the headless bolt in.
#391
My Feedback: (67)
It was so long ago, but without the turbine in it’s accessible to both locations. One is right in front of the former that holds the back of the inlet ducting and the other is right behind the rear LG former. I used a long 3” 4-40 bolt in one end of the insert to guide it in position and then another screw in the bottom to hold it tight. The long screw also helped me make sure it was vertical before gluing. Then i added a bead of hysol around the knurled spacer. Once cured i could remove both bolts.
#393
My Feedback: (30)
Yep, I have removed the turbine, helps on angle, but it's the stuff on the other side of the formers at the bottom of fuse and the fact the holes are right up against those formers. Pretty small holes so can enlarge them or move them.
I was thinking similar to Sean's method, and the way the wing tanks are done with tabs that hang, and the pylon is slotted to fit with a hole/screw on the side to secure.
I was thinking similar to Sean's method, and the way the wing tanks are done with tabs that hang, and the pylon is slotted to fit with a hole/screw on the side to secure.
#394
My Feedback: (30)
It was so long ago, but without the turbine in it’s accessible to both locations. One is right in front of the former that holds the back of the inlet ducting and the other is right behind the rear LG former. I used a long 3” 4-40 bolt in one end of the insert to guide it in position and then another screw in the bottom to hold it tight. The long screw also helped me make sure it was vertical before gluing. Then i added a bead of hysol around the knurled spacer. Once cured i could remove both bolts.
#397
My Feedback: (41)
The other forward tank it fuel along with both rear tanks being fuel as mine's got a JetCat P-180RXi. High flow fuel line stuff isn't necessary until you get above 220N size Turbines, the 4mm stuff is just fine. In fact, they were running the 220 JetCats on 4mm line with no issues which is great as messing with that larger diameter line and how stiff it is, is a real pain in the butt to work with..
#399
My Feedback: (1)
Different pressure measured in CCU and analog gauge
Hello guys,
I got a very nice, used F16.
Pressure reading on the CCU is much lower than the one from the analog dial.
For example, the CCU reads 80 psi while the analog gauge reads 105.
I should mention that my cheapo compressor gun agrees with the analog dial.
Is this large variation normal?
Thks for your comments
I got a very nice, used F16.
Pressure reading on the CCU is much lower than the one from the analog dial.
For example, the CCU reads 80 psi while the analog gauge reads 105.
I should mention that my cheapo compressor gun agrees with the analog dial.
Is this large variation normal?
Thks for your comments
#400
My Feedback: (20)
This is normal for all the BVM CCU jets I have operated. My friends say the same for theirs. I used 95-100 psi on the round guage which usually gave 70-75 psi on the CCU. I did not experience it but higher pressure could cause lines to blow off fittings or air blow by the pistons inside the cylinders.
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jorgeelizondom (07-23-2024)