timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

petit your brilliant!!!

krproton

Guys,

you need a screwdriver-type ball-end wrench that you can spin easily--not an "L" wrench (even if the "L" wrench has a ball end it's no good).

krproton

Hi Mike.

I don't want to ignore your question, but I don't think I'm really supposed to reveal what our plans for future Top Flite releases are--there are more pretty cool things in the works though--some much farther out (release date wise) than others.

Sorry, but I don't want to get my #%& in a slinger! [sm=47_47.gif]

camdyson

Couple more questions if anyone can help:

1. Does the JR aircraft gyro you're using have a "heading hold" function Norm? - I've wanted to try this for take-offs, before switching to normal rate mode in the air. Also, does it run o.k. on 4.8V?

2. Dimensions for the assorted servos? Just a rough guide so I can order my servos.

3. I'm planning to run flap servos on a JR Matchbox with it's own power/switch, rest through the Rx and it's own power supply - sound logical? I'm avoiding over-complicating this plane, so no onboard glow, dual Rx's, power bus's, pneumatic doors, brakes, bombs etc....(will probably add detail once it has flown a bit)

4. Anyone seen pictures of the kit's colour scheme anywhere on the web?

5. With all these gyros, synch units etc., do you think knowing which engine has cut will be hard to figure out? I don't plan to find out personally!

Thanks,

Cam

p.s. good luck on your test flights Norm

camdyson

Put me down for the 1/8 Lancaster........

flycast

Hi All,
In these situations I always start with a small amount of bluetack to the bolt head
Never had any probs.
Just a little patience in not getting cross threaded
Ray

krproton

Hi Cam.

I'll see if I can answer a few of your questions:

Question #2--sizes of assorted servos -- All the servos used in the B-25 are just "standard" size servos (with the exception of the mini servos in the horiz. stab for the rudders). If you wanted, all you need to do is go to the Tower Hobbies web site and search for the Top Flite B-25. When you open the page, open up the instruction manual from the site, see what servos we used, look up the servos on the Tower site and get the sizes. But since I'm such a great guy I'll do that for you.....

S3003 servos were used everywhere except the elevator and rudders; they are 1.6"L x .8"W
S9001 servo was used for the elevator; it is 1.6"L x 0.8"W
S3115 servos were used in the horiz. stab for the rudders; 1.1"L x .51"W

Most "standard case" servos are approximately the same size--close enough to work without modification, or possibly with minor modifications to the mounting blocks--shouldn't be any big deal.

Question #3--JR Matchbox -- you stated you were avoiding over-complicating the plane (nice use of the hyphen!). If this is the case, I really don't think you need a Matchbox (or Futaba servo synchronizer) for the flaps. The flaps are really easy to set up; Just set up the first flap as you normally would--use the programming in your TX to set the endpoints so the flap is retracted when the switch (or slider) on your TX is one way and so the flap is extended (to the throw specified in the manual) when the switch (or slider) is the other way. Once the first flap is setup, you can disconnect it from your receiver and do the next flap; With the radio on and the flap switch (or slider) on your Tx in the retracted ("up" ) position, and with the servo connected to the Rx and mounted to the hatch and the hatch mounted in the wing, simply set the length of the pushrod so the flap will be all the way up--same as the first flap was. No need to mess with the endpoint because you're adjusting the pushrod mechanically. Don't worry if the flaps don't extend EXACTLY the same amount--they will be within a 1/16" (one degree?) of each other and you'll never notice it in flight. It's not like separate elevators where if not precisely synchronized the plane will roll slightly. And the main point with the flaps is that they will all be retracted ("up" ) together. This will be achieved when you set the lengths of the pushrods. Try it. You'll wonder what all the fuss is about.

Question #4--pics of the "Executive Sweet" on the internet -- I found a REALLY AWESOME group of photos of the Executive Sweet yesterday at work. I can't find it again now, but I saved the link at work, so when I get back to work I'll post it from there. It has lots of in-flight CLOSE-UPS from different angles also with the bomb bay doors open. Don't forget to check back to see.

Update: See the link in post #390.

Question #5--engine cut -- I have none of your fancy gyros and engine synchronizers on my B-25[sm=71_71.gif]. The other day I was doing simulated engine-out testing (by decoupling the engines in flight with a switch on my Tx). I would cut one engine and fly around, then throttle it back up and cut the other. To tell you the truth, the plane didn't handle much differently and it was difficult to detect that the engine had been cut in the first place. Now probably things would be different if one engine was to suddenly cut (i.e. quit running!), but I think it will be difficult to detect an engine out immediately anyway. That's been my experience. (And of course, I was expecting it while flying at a safe altitude--but this is still an indication that it may be difficult to immediately detect a dead engine and I don't think the plane will behave DRASTICALLY different).

Tim

norm

Re: Gyro:

1- for your firsty question, the gyro installed on the rudder will maintain the yaw for you until you override it by using the stick. The perfect example is like if you have someone maintaining a control for you until you take over. the gyro installed for the rudder will maintain the "Normal or another name for it is the vertical axis this is situated @ the center of gravity where if looking over (or under) the plane the plane would swing from left to right around this axix ex: if you were to nail the plane to the ground through the cokpit you could only move it around this nail clockwise or counterclockwise. this is refered to as the "Yaw".

Well yes this gyro will maintain the aircraft on a ground roll as straight as an arrow until take off @ 22lbs you need all the ground speed you can get. the best benifit is that it maintains the aircraft coordinated at all time and you do not have to switch to any other mode, it is overridden automatically when you touch the stick and you can also adjust this sensitivity...read the instructions. I know futaba if you are on futaba makes an excellent one as well.

2- The size of a G500A is speaks for itself on the picture.

3- As far as seperate power for the flaps through the matchbox is almost useless because when you are in flight the flaps will only be used for a short field take off or for landing...do not add weight for nothing. 8 servos are almostnot being used when in flight out of 13, so only 5 are being sollicited, a 4000mah+ battery @ 6.0v is what you whant, will increase torque on the servos as well as a security for 1 cell battery failure. I first was impressed by the number of servos and the power required for this monster but now that I've almost tamed it ( maiden this week -end) it is not necessary to freak out for the number of servos...but have power to spare 4000+

4- Yes you can see the executive sweet on the web just google it.

5- The best question is your # 5: you will never know which engine quit when in flight, for the simple reason that you cannot see unless it happens to you on a low pass @ 50 feet or less and still...you do not try to know which one it is (unless in a full scale!), your natural reaction will be to control with the ailerons the moment you see the airplane turn and roll due to an engine failure. The immediate reaction of the plane in a one engine out is, 1-sudden yaw towards the dead engine 2, the engine still alive creates more lift then the dead engine so that wing will lift vs the dead will drop causing a roll. then the uncontrollable spiral dive. Top flite has designed their B-25 with a divergent offset to both engines. I beleive after seeing this design that this will greatly help to maintain the aircraft. Now you should because of this design maintain the wings level with the ailerons and turn by controlling the rudders and unless your nerves are made out of steel and that you do not listen to your normal reaction of whanting to turn with the ailerons you should get the plane back intact if able to position it for a no power landing.

Unfortunately this scenario must happen when you have altitude...with a gyro on the rudder the rudders will correct the 1st occurence of the yaw and maintain the aircraft coordinated enabling you to use the ailerons to fly the aircraft back at any phases of the flight. In any case you do not whant a dead stick on take off, but a gyro will help you greatly at that time becausre this is when you catch a piece of turf or a bump and lose an engine at rotation time, the gyro will help you at this very moment and I defy anyone to be as quick as the gyro in this instance!

The gyro must be positioned very straight, in the middle ogf the fuselage @ the center of gravity of the weight & balance ie: 5 inch behind the leading edge of the wing like on the picture.

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

LANCASTER ARE YOU SERIOUS OMG I WANT ONE

NO WAIT THE HINDENBURG GOOD SHOW ON HISTORY CHANNEL NOW

camdyson

Thanks for all the info' guys - much appreciated. I may not have explained my reason for the Matchbox: mainly, it was to avoid running excess current through the receiver. 4 flaps (deployed) can draw ALOT of current, without adding the other ailerons, elevator, rudders and throttles. I'm a bit nervous about the load, so was simply trying to let the Matchbox carry the flaps' current.

Set-up won't be a problem, as have flaps on numerous other planes in the hangar. BTW I fly a JR 9x II which you Yanks have some other 9*** code for. The flap slow feature is cool if anyone hasn't tried it, plus full throttle can automatically retract them if you have to "go around" unexpectedly.

Thanks again for any tips - no doubt I'll be bugging you all more soon[8D]

Cam

norm

Yeah the thing x9303 does a lot of good things, I use it.

Now the Match box you need to use it to match the flaps position because the 4 servos are nor positionned exactly the same with the same command. Use the flaps on your aux 1 or flap 3 position switch. try not to use it on a variable button because you will not get used to the behavior of the plane with infinite flaps settings. you must set mechanically the flaps @ position 1 so they are all equal and have the same angle. Use 4 small stick of about 12 inch attached to your flaps with scotch tape to help yo have a better view of the position...when they all meet then use the match box to adjust the up and down position ie; the 0 and 2 position following instructions of the match box. This is the main reason to use the match box.

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

norman i agree its not a bad idea. Well i told the wife ive got to pay the cable and electric bill tomorrow. Isnt that what harnesses and extensions are (cables) and lipos are electric correct!

timothy thompson

My Feedback: (1)

more pics. the kitty is my freddie and he is paralyzed. he still eats and drinks so im not killing him its really sad. he is 14 and a 4000 surgury would fix him. at 14 it would be a risky procedure, more bay pics and a big one of my 1/133 bismark i scratched .the white area is where the air cylinders will go i also need a big 1000 lb bomb for the bay the little 100lb bomb is small compared to the 1000 lb . ok homeland security these are fake bombs ok

alans

Some advice, I think the dimension from front of firewall to engine drive flange is incorrect. Trouble is you cannot really check it until you start cutting the cowl. My engines are now sticking out a little to far now, not the end of the world !!

krproton

As promised,

here's that link to some B-25 photos of the "Executive Sweet."

[link]http://www.vg-photo.com/airshow/cama2007/b25.html[/link]

norm

Hello Tim (KRPROTON),

Is ist possible that the CG must be made with gears up? When the CG is made gears down, the tail falls down when you go gear up swinging the weight to the back. I fixed the CG gears up. When you go gears down the plane becomes noze heavy desirable for T/O and Landing.

Maybe I miss out on something or is there a reason why to fix the CG gears down?

THANX

alans

I think I am around 25% complete, see picture of how far the engine sticks out if you set it at 127mm as per instructions, should it stick out this far. This is how i plan to mount the sensor for the twinsync, i will of course be painting the supporting wood. Excuse the dodgy pictures !!

krproton

Please perform the C.G. with the gear down--as instructed in the manual that came with your kit. This will duplicate the way we did the C.G. on our prototypes for testing. Yes, the balance point (C.G.) will shift aft when the gear are retracted, but this has already been accounted for in our calculations. Hypothetically, if the C.G. shifts aft 1/2" aft with the gear retracted, then the C.G. listed in the manual would also have been 1/2" aft of where it is now.

In other words, what is the distance that your C.G. shifts rearward when you retract the gear? If you prefer to check the C.G. with the gear up, please balance your model at the C.G. listed in the manual, plus the distance yours shifted.

One other reason we show the C.G. with the gear down is for modelers who use fixed landing gear.

Tim

KenVC

My Feedback: (7)

Hey Tim (KRPROTON)

Any word on the decals yet?

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

Yep, mine were the same way. Both sheets the same with no clear openings.

But I like the way all the graphics were dull coated to keep them from ruining the effect of an overall dull finish

krproton

Hi Ken.

I telephoned the person in our warehouse who is in-charge of doing kit insertions. She informed me, that as we speak (an hour ago this morning), the decals have arrived and they are inserting them in the kits already.

I believe the number of kits we have out numbers the back orders we have (or at least that was the case a week ago), so I believe most everybody who has had a B-25 on order should be getting theirs. (I can't guarantee that, but I believe the pipeline will be filled for now.)

Thanks for standing by.

Tim

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

What about replacements for those of us who got 2 sheets of white circle instruments?

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Ditto, I have the same problem as Dick. 2 sheets of the same decals.

Ken

KenVC

My Feedback: (7)

Tim(KRPROTON),

YEAH!!!!!!!!

Thanks,
Ken

norm

Tim (KrProton)

Well Tim the weather forecast for saturday & sunday is fair; 3 mph winds & partly cloudy. I fixed the CG as per instructions ( this cg is a hypothetic one!) because it should really be situated 5.5 inch behind the leading edge... Nevertheless I trust you & you've flown it before. After the maiden if all goes well I'll proceed to the bomb bay, side gunners , brakes and 12 bomb drop system put some beast decal on the rudder & change the pin-up for my wife, she desreve it and I promised. I'm having an artist painting it...she is a knock out. BTW the other reason I promised to make her my pin up was the only way I get 120+ hrs confined in my garage without hearing that I'm selfish. I know that already & hearing it is annoying...hope she does not read this!

For all the ones who did not receive their B-25 or just got it, this is the nicest arf "as is" and most pleasant to build, it is a 5/5 all over it has everything out of the box. If I may comment on the fake pilots, it gives you an idea of how it looks like and should be considered that way. I personally do not put pilot figures in my planes as they are RC anyway. The only concern I may have is the 4-40 bolt & blind nut supplied for the engine mount because the bolt break when tightened and a bit weak. This should be 6-32 or 8-32, It is only a detail and the shop has in bulk black,plated, or stainless steel. This is a personal opinion.

Nevertheless this kit is good for experienced as well as beginers because it is a "build for dummys" how simple it is. The experienced will whant to take it a step further and can. This is the beauty of this Kit. Well this is what it looks like! I'll keep posted