Jesse Open

Glowgeek

Marked "G" on the lug, one piece aac cylinder, rear draft carb with external brass lsn and choke, rear cover vented.

Eeeer uuugh, no thanks. Not even sure what I'm going to do with this one.

Captcrunch44

Glowgeek

In my case yes, purpose matters. I eek out a meager living here in the sticks. I find good deals on engines from retired club flyers, fly-ins and swap meets and try to turn a little profit where I can. I would love to have a shelf full of Saitos but alas.......

Captcrunch44

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

hey Pete, next time tell the person that you work for Nike and you attach the tongues to the shoes , that will get them

Jim

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

the Saito question of the day, (for my Mustang) what 4 blade prop to run on my Saito FA100, to add, I have no problem buying APC, but I would like a black prop for the scale effect,

so, as I have been told my mustang should do over 100MPH with my Saito 100, well because the 4 blade props are less efficient than 2 or 3 blade props I figure I could bleed off a little speed with 4 blades and gain more realism. so what size and what brand ??

as for my .60 Shoe String,
2 years ago I called Towers and asked if they had a cowl, no-p, not, don't have.. but they sent me free the vary last .40 size Cowl that they had, I can make the 40 cowl fit, it will look a little thin but never the less it will look ok. I really wanted to use my never started OS 70SZ Heli engine in it, well if I do I will have to cut up the cowl to fit the huge 2 stroke muffler, so I guess I will be putting my Saito 82 in my ShoeString...........

now I need a sporty plane for my OS 70sz, when will it all stop LOL

Gary, I sent you a PM last night

Jim

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The point where the rod hit the crankcase and made this gouge is all but invisible.


Elongated rod lower end. Mounting holes unused.


Liner unmarked


Bearings rusted solid.
Saito fans, no pun intended, I bought this 56 knowing it is a fixer upper. Note elongated and bent lower rod end. I honestly think this happened before it was run much, note mounting holes unused, thee cylinder lining is unmarked. Both bearings are rusted solid. New Boca's on the way. The cam indicates little to no wear. The seller said it's OK to post pictures. I'll update as progress is made.

Glowgeek

Yep, she's a rusty one. The 56a I rebuilt was very similar. I made two mistakes with that first rebuild, firstly I didn't get ALL the rust off every part before reassembly and secondly I drove the piston pin out without removing the rust first, just sprayed it with liquid wrench. Costed me a lot of new parts after a very short engine lifespan whereas if I had done things right It would probably run for years. Lessons learned.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I was more fortunate, I soaked the piston for several hours in a shot glass full of PB Blaster. then one light tap with a Phenolic hammer moved it a little and then a firm push with a screw driver did the rest. I am taking a thinking break from it to weigh, new piston or no new piston, I already had a new ring.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

Dave, did the seller give you a story about how it got like that ??

Jim

Rudolph Hart

Dave when you see saito parts that have come out of the engine in that condition it makes you feel like someone has just given you a huge kick in the goulies mate.Unless it's one of those bony lazy fa125's.I hope with a bit of heat the bearings pop easy.

ps capt he who dies with the most saito's still dies as sure as you can't beat the tax man or make harleys go fast.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks Jim, no he didn't explain but I saw pictures before I bought it so I knew what I was getting.

Pete, the bearings popped right out, no heat, two whacks for front and three for the rear. The cam is the rustiest component, the lifters are stained but otherwise perfect. I have a rebuild kit for the carb, he sent all the bolts. I have a good supply of Micro-Fastener bolts, (Saito sizes) to pick through if needed. I polished the crankpin with some billion grade sandpaper, a used rod slides on and off smoothly.
Also,Pete, is it possible to paint plastic motorcycle parts, for example the fenders on a 1984 Honda 80 XR, thanks.

Jesse Open

Glowgeek

I agree, heat vs beat. Antifreeze all parts at 170-190°f for 12 hrs first, then heat case evenly to approx 350°f. Bearings sometimes just fall out, if not one light tap gets it done. Same with the piston pin after removing ALL of the rust by wet sanding with a narrow strip of 1000 grit emory cloth.
I'm thinking about switching from antifreeze to LA's Totally Awesome cleaner for everything except exhaust. David M. seems to have very good luck using it on everything except the worst burnt on castor.

Jesse Open

Glowgeek

On one of David's vids he identified the difference between the orange and yellow TA cleaner. The orange discolored aluminum in less than 30 min, the yellow didn't even after an eight hour soak. The yellow did however clean the aluminum to like new color without heat or vibe in that 8 hour time span. That IS totally awesome!

Even though I've never had an issue with green universal antifreeze discoloring my engines I'm always nervous about using it. If the temp rises too high in the crockpot it could cause discoloration I've read. Not to mention the product and its vapors are poisonous.

I have a very low runtime OS fs26 torn down due to the original owner using way too much castor and no after run oil. I think I'll try the yellow TA cleaner on that one. No great loss if it messes it up, it's only an OS.

Jesse Open

Glowgeek

Does TA cleaner remove burnt on castor for you? Headers and mufflers come out of the US clean?

Jesse Open

Never used TA for that. Used a few other products, all involved elbow grease and finesse (brass brush in tough cases). The Dawn MUST be constantly agitated and flushed to avoid darkening.

Best to avoid those stains by sealing fuel and exhaust systems well. My favorite sealant is SWAK ® or its Loctite copycat replacement.
SWAK® is an anaerobic, high temp Teflon based past sealant. Not like plumber's Teflon thread dope, it is an acrylic, anaerobic that cures in absence of air. The stained engines I wind up with all arrive here that way

Here are some Saito covers that were very badly water damaged. Before pics show the peeled chrome and corrosion. These were stripped with a Scotchbrite abrasive wheel. The small block were then polished. The finned big blocks were polished and then brush finished for a different look.

Glowgeek

Wow, those big block rocker covers looked like they spent 20 yrs at the bottom of Lake Michigan! Swak, yes. I have to clean a lot of exhausts where the previous owners didn't use any sealant and/or the front bearing seal was not doing its job. Antifreeze does work quite well for that baked on crud, I just bake it off and scrubbing is minimal, sometimes unnecessary. Thanks for the cleaning tips.

Rudolph Hart

Yes you can paint them.The trick is cleaning the poly ethylene plastic with an aggressive solvent many times then use ONE thin coat of plastic adhesion promoter or 2k plastic primer then any topcoat red you like. Or you can use fine wet and dry sandpaper to remove the faded plastic then some wd40 to make it shiny again. I think it's easier tho to look up new xr80 fenders on fleabay...maier manufacture new one's for about 45 bucks aussie and there are others too. Back in the 80's when drink driving was considered normal here we all had xr75 mini bikes for back yard homemade moto cross track parties. As the day wore on people got faster. A bloke that looked just like me went straight through a sheet rock fence and in to the next door neighbours house. A new set of forks and handle bars for the little xr75 and a bottle of tequila band aids for the rider.

Nice job and some handy tips on cleaning saito parts gary, thanks.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

boy, there's been some people out there treating their Saitos vary badly, sham on them


Lonnie, I soaked my OS in antifreeze and it came out grey, as I sprayed off the anti freeze with WD I could see the WD was bring back the color, but you have to rub the WD in.

Dave, hydraulic maybe, I wonder if that engine was submerged while running, maybe it flew into a pond. some 8 years ago we had a guy in our club loose a plane in the woods, some one found it a week later in a small pond, boy, the plane looked like it was in the pond for 5 years, yee-up, it had a Saito in it.

Gary, I PM'ed you back about the Carb, so what's wrong with it ??,,, I'm betting all you need to do is "face" the back of the carb with a fly cutter so it will mount flush, correct/wrong ??

Hi Pete, what you painting this week ??

oops, an edit here, the wife yelled down, "2 rhubarb and strawberry pies in the oven"

Jim
treat your Saito engines right and they will laugh at other brands

Glowgeek

True with the older green antifreeze. Turning grey is a sure sign of oxidation. Today's universal antifreeze is designed to be safe for aluminum core radiators, heater cores, water pump housings etc. Thanks for the WD40 trick, I'll have to try that on some older greyed out engines.

cdrc1

Was still having issues with transition; would stall if you went straight to full. Took it back out of the plane and put it on the stand with the pump; had to turnout the low speed needle about 1 1/2 turns to fix the transition which is now good. Also went to a 14 x 8. Running good. Will see once it is back into the plane upside down.