acdii

I have something similar to that stand, has a wire tray on the bottom and two wheels on one end.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I built a folding support out of PVC pipe so I could tinker with the plane without bending over. It works but I think I'll redesign it.

Captcrunch44

Jesse Open

Bet you could easily better for 1/2 the price of that precarious looking thing!




A fellow in our club was making stand similar to this and selling them for around ten dollars!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

It's actually very stable and protects planes while riding in the truck. Why do you hate everything that's not your idea?

acdii

I built my own plane stand for testing and tuning. I found the plans online and just went out, bought some treated lumber and built it. I had to modify it a bit for the larger planes so that the landing gear had a place to sit and not put the wings over the holdbacks. I need to move it, weeds and grass have buried it behind my garage. I have to figure out a way that I can use it to test and tune the B-25.

Jesse Open

I don't
Why do you always go personal so quickly?

With that pricetag, there is loads of room for improvement for someone willing to use his mind rather than his checkbook.

Or his lip...

And yes, far more stable.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I think building your own gives you more flexibility to meet your own needs. A manufactured prebuilt unit has to make compromises to fit the needs of a broad spectrum of users and airplanes. However, not everyone wants to build their own. I don't have a laser cutter because I don't want the expense or to dedicate the time to learning to use so I pay someone else. Its all about how you want to spend your time and hobby dollars. No single right answer no single wrong answer, it,s all relative.

Jesse Open

Exactly, this is an excellent opportunity to get exactly what you need/want. Just about anybody building planes has the tools and know-how to come up with a no compromised design and saving much money to boot. Taking on enough projects like this, where the store bought item is indeed "pricey" and you can actually save enough to buy a few more of those "exotic" tools that pay off huge over the years.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I got exactly what I wanted or I wouldn't have spent the money, I have hauled airplanes more than 800 miles in it with zero problems and having the airplane in it at the field means no getting down on my knees. It's quite well made so I'll never have to buy another.

Jesse Open

Dave,
That is wonderful , for you... and the people who sold it.

Many people have done as well, even better, some for only $10. I was commenting to and about someone looking for something different, with different requirements. No hate involved, no personal attack.

Barnum said it well....

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I set my choice right beside others choices every time I fly and some of them are quite creative.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Mike, I'm in awe, the care package arrived and what a surprise, thank you a million times. This picture will say more than I can. An early 50 with A on the right lug.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

It works for you so that is all that counts. I bought and expensive engine test stand because I really liked it, the workmanship was beautiful, and it could handle anything I am likely ever to fly. I could also afford it at the time too.

Jesse Open

Glowgeek

All I have is a Robart Super Stand, you know, the foam one like this.
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...iAAEgIDvvD_BwE

It works for my .10 size planes all the way up to my 55cc planes. Nothing special, super light weight and plenty solid but it'll blow right off the field bench in a light wind if not weighted down with a plane. The adhesive used to secure the black foam pads can't handle hot days so I just removed the pads and set the plane on the bare foam. It's not great but works and was thrown in for free with some gear I bought from an RC widow.

Dave, that folding stand with the parts tray looks very nice indeed. I think I'll put a tray on my Robart foamy. Like maybe an old cookie sheet secured with hot glue.

Glowgeek

Gary, sweet looking early FA50. I love the old style pipes on those.

Dave, I guess that care package worked out great, that 50 should clean up nicely and with a new set of screws you'll have a dandy. What's it going on?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks Lonnie, it has the most perfect lifters I've seen in a used engine, they are perfectly domed with no flat edges anywhere. It will get new Boca Bearings and ICBIM gaskets and that's it. I have one of the early muffler and pipe for it.

Jesse Open

Glowgeek

Gary, you probably haven't had any spare time to work on that 15° exhaust adaptor for my 82 but I thought I'd ask anyway.

Rudolph Hart

Dave a sturdy looking well made stand with enough weight not to be blown over easily, good value for money too. It took an expensive divorce from the minister for fun to get me up off MY knees

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks Gary, but I am receiving a shipment of screws today from Micro Fasteners I am changing all the 3 x 10 mm screws to 12 mm. the holes are all deep enough, I made my own blind tap, (I think that's the correct term) to bottom them out. The why of it is, I just don't know.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks Pete, mine has wheels on one end also, so I always place the engine toward the no wheel end. The finish is durable too and it has not gotten skinned up. I have one of those rubber mats in my truck that stinks to high heaven for 10 years so the stand does no slide on it.

Glowgeek

I've always called them "Bottoming Taps" Dave and yes I do the same thing with some rebuilds. Like in the case with machining the cylinder deck down on my HC FA82 case I was able to use the factory screw length by bottom tapping the cylinder mounting holes. I've also used bottoming taps to prep for Helicoil installation with stripped out 2 stroke heads, works great. General rule of thumb is 1x major thread dia tapping depth for steel and 2x major thread dia depth for aluminum alloys. Those are minimum numbers so whenever possible I try to exceed those. Some aluminum castings are very soft however and when dealing with higher torque applications like in the case with my EVO 61 head bolts I depth drilled and was able to achieve a 2.75x major thread dia tapping depth.

Captcrunch44