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I need to put a battery pack together for my starter. The Nicad died a horrible death. I also need a larger starter for the DLE30 and the FG-30's. I can get the engine spinning if I help it on the first pop, then it will spin it until it starts, but not enough torque to get past that first compression stroke. I also need to get some prop hubs for both. The DLE isn't broken in yet, so doesn't start by hand yet, but my DA-100 does. Goes to show the difference between a quality engine and a chinese one. The first Saito FG-30 is almost to the hand start stage, needs some more run time though, then once I can start it by hand, I will run in the other one.
I have a large 3S Lipo, actually a pair of them, I think they are either 6K or 8K packs that have not even been tapped yet that I can use to power the starter. Now if I got my crap together and buy a 3D printer I could make a case for it.
I have a large 3S Lipo, actually a pair of them, I think they are either 6K or 8K packs that have not even been tapped yet that I can use to power the starter. Now if I got my crap together and buy a 3D printer I could make a case for it.
That Sullivan/DeWalt 20V combo spins a FA-180 very well
The adapter is from a Ni-Cd to Lithium adapter from eBay. I sawed the NiCd "nose off and bolted it to the Sullivan's tail. Uses standard DeWalt packs now. Easy to find, Easy to change and very easy to charge. Works pretty darn good!
The adapter is from a Ni-Cd to Lithium adapter from eBay. I sawed the NiCd "nose off and bolted it to the Sullivan's tail. Uses standard DeWalt packs now. Easy to find, Easy to change and very easy to charge. Works pretty darn good!
Thats a thought as well. I could do something like that using Porter Cable packs as that is what I have at home. I do need to replace the lithium cells though, they are not holding as much charge as they used to after nearly 20 years. If I can find one of the old lights or drills that use that base, I could do the same.
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
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Well, here's one made in Vietnam, what am I to do with this mess, I am sending these pictures to Sig to see what happens.
Cowl top.
Engine mounting started, upper right blind nut ans screw in since picture.
Second pic doesn't look too bad, hit it with a heat gun until it balloons out and let it cool without pressing the covering down. After that an iron will put it in place. In the first pic it looks like there's some balsa probs? Hard to tell. If it's a newly shipped product you have return options.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 09-10-2019 at 08:24 AM.
T-Clips 70? Mine was like that too, had to kit it with the heat gun to get it to set. It is Oracover/Ultracoat, so it shrinks nice, though I suspect they "might" be using the stuff that Hobbyking sells and saying it is Ultracoat. Nothing wrong with the HK covering, in fact it is really good stuff. Crunch has my Rascal that is covered in it.
I had remembered tht I needed to see if I could find replacement Lithium cells for my Porter Cable Lithium packs and found a company make replacement packs on Amazon. Got a pair of new ones on the way, now to see if I can find one of the 18v flashlights that I can hack into a mount for the starter.
I had remembered tht I needed to see if I could find replacement Lithium cells for my Porter Cable Lithium packs and found a company make replacement packs on Amazon. Got a pair of new ones on the way, now to see if I can find one of the 18v flashlights that I can hack into a mount for the starter.
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Sorry, I guess it doesn't show that the wood is crushed, I'll see what Sig says before continuing with the engine mounting. She'll respond very quickly, at least that has always been the case in the past. That engine is really off center but the prop driver a full 6" ahead of the firewall. Thanks for the thoughts, I may very well end up heeding them.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 09-10-2019 at 08:42 AM. Reason: Spelling
That Sullivan/DeWalt 20V combo spins a FA-180 very well
The adapter is from a Ni-Cd to Lithium adapter from eBay. I sawed the NiCd "nose off and bolted it to the Sullivan's tail. Uses standard DeWalt packs now. Easy to find, Easy to change and very easy to charge. Works pretty darn good!
The adapter is from a Ni-Cd to Lithium adapter from eBay. I sawed the NiCd "nose off and bolted it to the Sullivan's tail. Uses standard DeWalt packs now. Easy to find, Easy to change and very easy to charge. Works pretty darn good!
Sorry, I guess it doesn't show that the wood is crushed, I'll see what Sig says before continuing with the engine mounting. She'll respond very quickly, at least that has always been the case in the past. That engine is really off center but he prop driver a full 6" ahead of the firewall. Thanks form the thoughts, I may very well end up heeding them.
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So there I was sitting in my trusty beanbag chair eating Cheetos nak... er .... anyway my reverie was interrupted when the doorbell rings. On opening the door I discovered a box is sitting on the porch (The courier had obviously delivered her before). Being a little distracted at moment I stuck it in the closet without opening it. Later I noticed a strange sound emanating from the closet where the box sat. It had an eerie unmistakable quality about it....
Last edited by Jesse Open; 09-10-2019 at 09:45 AM.
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Looking to get one like this for the bigger engines. I think I have a Torquemaster 180 and a 90, have to double check. I think the 180 is the one that has the battery pack.
Holy crap, I just realised I have a dead 20v Dewalt saws-all sitting in my scrap pile, I'm all over that!
Last edited by Glowgeek; 09-10-2019 at 12:52 PM.
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Saito 50-a
Last edited by Hobbsy; 09-10-2019 at 03:20 PM. Reason: Punctuation
DeWalt Lithium batteries use very high quality cells. The 20 volt are actually 18 loaded. They use the 20 volt to distinguish them apart from the NiCd packs from the older tools.
The lithium packs are flat and compact. The old NiCd pack had a projecting nose that slipped in to the tool handle. On eBay and Amazon there are various adopters that allow the lithium pack to work in the old NiCd tools. It is that adapter that I adapt to fit the lithium battery to the Sullivan type starter.
By bandsawing that nose section off it allows the adapter to use the two starter studs to attach the adapter at the rear. Just about that easy too! Hook up the two wires, right way round and assemble. Now go start your engine. No voltage drop from that 4 foot cord going down to the old lead acid tractor battery. Much more instant power on tap and no leaky nasty wet battery to deal with.
Somebody will just have to hate it
The lithium packs are flat and compact. The old NiCd pack had a projecting nose that slipped in to the tool handle. On eBay and Amazon there are various adopters that allow the lithium pack to work in the old NiCd tools. It is that adapter that I adapt to fit the lithium battery to the Sullivan type starter.
By bandsawing that nose section off it allows the adapter to use the two starter studs to attach the adapter at the rear. Just about that easy too! Hook up the two wires, right way round and assemble. Now go start your engine. No voltage drop from that 4 foot cord going down to the old lead acid tractor battery. Much more instant power on tap and no leaky nasty wet battery to deal with.
Somebody will just have to hate it
Last edited by Jesse Open; 09-10-2019 at 05:51 PM.
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Dave just a friendly query...90% of the rc planes i can think of would look weird with an upright saito mounting, can you post some examples of what you fly? personally i think they run better on their sides and almost as well inverted. Although i never run spark ignition i imagine it would make the whole thing easier, especially at idle an low rpm.
ps jim shoosh, i manage to get myself in trouble without help most times
ps jim shoosh, i manage to get myself in trouble without help most times
Jim
Saito engine owners run smoother
DeWalt Lithium batteries use very high quality cells. The 20 volt are actually 18 loaded. They use the 20 volt to distinguish them apart from the NiCd packs from the older tools.
The lithium packs are flat and compact. The old NiCd pack had a projecting nose that slipped in to the tool handle. On eBay and Amazon there are various adopters that allow the lithium pack to work in the old NiCd tools. It is that adapter that I adapt to fit the lithium battery to the Sullivan type starter.
By bandsawing that nose section off it allows the adapter to use the two starter studs to attach the adapter at the rear. Just about that easy too! Hook up the two wires, right way round and assemble. Now go start your engine. No voltage drop from that 4 foot cord going down to the old lead acid tractor battery. Much more instant power on tap and no leaky nasty wet battery to deal with.
Somebody will just have to hate it
The lithium packs are flat and compact. The old NiCd pack had a projecting nose that slipped in to the tool handle. On eBay and Amazon there are various adopters that allow the lithium pack to work in the old NiCd tools. It is that adapter that I adapt to fit the lithium battery to the Sullivan type starter.
By bandsawing that nose section off it allows the adapter to use the two starter studs to attach the adapter at the rear. Just about that easy too! Hook up the two wires, right way round and assemble. Now go start your engine. No voltage drop from that 4 foot cord going down to the old lead acid tractor battery. Much more instant power on tap and no leaky nasty wet battery to deal with.
Somebody will just have to hate it
Speaking of upright engines: This is a 1997 pic of my kit built Sig Something Extra. Originally a Saito 56, now with its YS 53.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 09-11-2019 at 02:26 AM.