Murd0ck

Has anyone setup a DF03RA for drifting?

Murd0ck

<div>My car is finally complete. I ran it today with some home made drift tires. It does drift, but I can't sustain long difts or control my drifts with precision. I'm planning on going to a brushless setup soon. Does anyone know what these parts will do to my car, and if it will help me drift/Rally my car? Will rbishless kill my gears? Can the DF03RA tranny handle brushless?

Sillper Clutch:

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-df0...5-p-19794.html

This will help not grind my gears into pieces?


Front One Way:

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-df0...3-p-22575.html

What does this do?


Center One Way:

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-df0...1-p-20354.html

Will this help along with a locked rear diff?

Thanks to anyone that can give me some insight here.

</div>

aflipz

My Feedback: (10)

Slipper clutch; correct, by setting it right it delivers all the motor's power but will slip under drivetrain jolts relieving stress on your gears.


Front one way; It drives both wheels like a locked diff, with the added difference of allowing one wheel to rotate slower than the other if need be (wheel on the inside of a turn travels a shorter distance, locked diffs cause tires to "fight" each other, this does not, but does however deliver 100% torque through both front wheels) Side effect; only the rear wheels brake and reverse.

center one way; you wouldn't use this in conjunction with a front one way at least I wouldn't see the point; it does nothing to the front diff action except disconnect it during braking and reverse. Other than for those wanting to have RWD braking characteristics on an AWD car I fail to see it's use.

Murd0ck

Thank you for your wisdom! I'm 100% clear about what I need for my car to sustain drifts.

Raman

My Feedback: (1)

FYI guys, Tamiya finally has the dark impact body in stock. So finally I can have a cover for my car and run it again LOL. Only took 9 months.

aflipz

My Feedback: (10)

I gave up a long time ago and used a 2.0L PET soda bottle cut down and velcro'd to the sides. Bit of fancy work with the heat gun to shape it and walla... 5 cent dust shield.

alexchen86

For those of you running brushless what is the best gearing setup you use? I think I will put in my Rusty's VXL 3500 system and run the DF03Ra on 2S occasionally 3S.

CWHFSR

The problem with running the VXL are the wires... they go in toward the shaft and the housing of the DF-03 gets in the way. I tried to do this myself but didn't want to cut into the body of the car and couldn't figure out how to move the wires... if you figure that out let me know I was looking at just selling my VXL system and getting something that would work...

Casper06

I had the same issue, I purposely bought a VXL for the DF03ra and was irritated when it wouldn't fit. In the rain and mud I've been running a 4600kv Castle Sidewinder that was treated with Corrosion X on the ESC only. The motor can is sealed tight and I haven't had any water get inside yet.

fong242

CC Mamba Max Pro with 4900 kV motor, 25T pinion, 78T spur and 2s lipo: fits and works like a charm.

Murd0ck

Drifting Stock DF03RA Tips:

Firm Carpet
- Lock rear diff by removing the ball bearings, and tighten it down onto the gear wheel. It may stilll slip, but will get you drifting. You can put the balls back in if you want a fully functional diff. Locking the rear helped my drifting quite a bit.
- Remove suspension load pretensioners from shocks. This will lower your chassis, and allow you to have less body roll. You can always put them back in when you are going to go rally.
- Drift tires. I used home made ABS wheels made of ABS pipe. With a stock motor setup actual drift tires were too sticky.

Street
- Same as carpet, but tires will be grinded down faster.
- Griddy surface streets will be harder to control drifts.

Murd0ck

How do you like your mamba max setup? I hear mixed reviews...

alexchen86

I've seen a YouTube vid of a VXL DF03Ra....i know it can be done...I'll get to frankensteining my car tonight!

Casper06

It can fit all you have to do is hack off some of the chassis to get the VXL black end cap to fit.

aflipz

My Feedback: (10)

I too recall reading a tale of someone using a VXL in a DF chassis. I think it involved mounting it in such a way that the board protrudes behind the chassis as the opening for the motor is not really cylindrical. Then maybe a bit of rotary tool work or was it just removing the end bell on the VXL and soldering in the wires from the other side of the board?

http://www.traxxas.com/products/acce...500_070706.pdf

see the end bell in the exploded view , it's pretty unnecessary. it just covers an aluminum plate with a sealed bearing If you want to keep dust out of it a small piece of tape can cover the hole just fine by the looks of it. With it removed, you can unsolder the 3 wires and stick them in from the other end. You could even drill 3 holes in the end bell to accommodate the wires coming out that side.


You might not be frankensteining your DF03RA that much after all!

fong242

I like it a lot but I don't have much to compare it with since it's my first rig so . Although, I can say it has a lot of power, even too much for where I run it. When I get some time, I'll try to fit a bigger spur/smaller pinion and run it at the dirt track.

fong242

What is the secret to reduce the steering sloppiness for this frame?

Do you have to get a aluminum steering block like
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-df0...h=595_744_1292

??

Thanks!

Murd0ck

Currently tamiya does not make an aluminum steering setup.

Any 3rd party products?

CWHFSR

When I bought my car it had something like that already installed. I don't have any steering sloppiness that I know of at all... other than the crappy servo that came with it. Replacing that solved a lot of my problems.

CWHFSR

Taking that plastic end piece off is easy but I haven't been able to figure out how to unsolder the 3 wires... there is a metal plate or something that wires but up against... at least that is what it looks like. I haven't taken a torch to the wires to try and remove them but I did put my iron there and they didn't move at all. Maybe I'll try again because using my VXL will be easier than selling it and getting something else.

I would really like to see an example of someone switching those wires... it would make it easier for me.

aflipz

My Feedback: (10)

Sorry I may have been mislead by the diagram which does not show a plate interfering with the solder joints. (I have not done one myself)

alexchen86

For those of yall running lipos are you having problems fitting them into the battery tray? I know hard packs will not work but I tried to squeeze in a 4000mah 3S Venom pack but the battery plate bulges out in the middle.

CWHFSR

I have only tried running smaller 3s2200 packs and a larger 2s4500. I know the battery tray is pretty small. There are some 3s5000 packs that fit but don't remember where I saw it (some pack from hobby king). You just have to look at the pack sizes before you order...

alexchen86

I found a Dynamite 4000 2S pack that fits nice and snug. I upgraded to brushless on the DF-03Ra today!

Sidewinder with 4600kv motor combo. The problem I came across was that the wires out the motor are a little bunched up. Is this something to worry about? Due to this I was barely lucky enough to budge it a little to fit my gear mesh correctly. My gearing is 29t/75t so FDR would be 7.902 which is isn't too high is it?

Here's what I mean if anyone else is running the 4600kv Castle motor:


Below is just my shelf queen body...I have another STI converted body I use for bashing

Casper06

I had the same problem with the wiring on my 4600 Mamba, I used a Dremel and shaved it down a little to fit better.