Welcome to Club SAITO !
11-02-2019, 02:07 AM
LOL!
Nobody loves trombones! That is why I have avoided using them for decades. Likewise, employing seesaw , scissor stuff when there is any other option.
Nobody loves trombones! That is why I have avoided using them for decades. Likewise, employing seesaw , scissor stuff when there is any other option.
11-02-2019, 03:20 AM
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
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I hate trombone throttle set ups like sylvester hates them meeces to peeces. Agree with everyone that golden rod throttle set ups are reliable and easy plus long lasting, but i did make a mistake when i modified the throttle set up for the fa182 powering the h9 taylorcraft. Only had about ten flights from new and was prepping it for a coming weekend with the cowl off when i noticed the exposed yellow rod that sat next to the right hand of the right exhaust pipe had turned slightly brown and had a kink in it, making it a little shorter, so no full throttle. After installing a heat shield that divided the exhaust and plastic throttle cable i was sure problem was solved after ground testing. Long story short two flights later and doing a few touch and goes i throttled back on climb out but nothing happened, in australia we have a very hearty black sense of humour so the dozen or two sympathetic pilots had all sorts of suggestions for me. In those days it had a very big fuel tank so the agony went on for more than twenty minutes, turns out the brass clevis got hooked up at full throttle on the leading edge of the heatshield i fitted.
ps dave i never heard of gas painting in the sense you mention do you have a link?
ps dave i never heard of gas painting in the sense you mention do you have a link?
The Gas Painting process seems to be a well,kept secret, it sure makes a beautiful finish whatever it is.
https://www.desertaircraft.com/colle...ed-gas-painted
PS, Lonnie, I got two Xoar 13 x 7's for the FG 11
11-02-2019, 05:33 AM
Could be painted props (for) gas engines
"Gas painting process" Too funny!
https://www.xoarintl.com/rc-propelle...e-A-Propeller/
"Gas painting process" Too funny!
https://www.xoarintl.com/rc-propelle...e-A-Propeller/
Last edited by Jesse Open; 11-02-2019 at 06:11 AM.
11-02-2019, 06:13 AM
Could be painted props (for) gas engines
"Gas painting process" Too funny!
https://www.xoarintl.com/rc-propelle...e-A-Propeller/
"Gas painting process" Too funny!
https://www.xoarintl.com/rc-propelle...e-A-Propeller/
I used those ez connectors on my LT-40, and they are still tight as the day I installed them. Of course BSI Thread locker helps a lot. Which reminds me, I ran out and need to get some more.
11-02-2019, 06:23 AM
I've never used the set screw style linkage connectors called "EZ". Those have tinnerman clips and can't adjusted permanently to adapt to varying thickness of servo/throttle arms.
The ones I have used have threaded posts where a washer and nut can take out slop. I'm not sure who made/makes them.
PS, looking in my parts bin I see that I am out of stock. I had two different kinds, ones with a longer unthreaded post section and ones with shorter unthreaded post section. I have no idea where I got them.
The ones I have used have threaded posts where a washer and nut can take out slop. I'm not sure who made/makes them.
PS, looking in my parts bin I see that I am out of stock. I had two different kinds, ones with a longer unthreaded post section and ones with shorter unthreaded post section. I have no idea where I got them.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 11-02-2019 at 06:32 AM.
11-02-2019, 06:30 AM
Good point!
Of course the search line in the red bar on the XOAR website from the above link is formatted:
"Home>R/C Propellors>Gas props>PJM"
Yessir, Those DuBro setscrew connectors on flex cable work fine on throttles.
Especially with a spot of VC-3 Threadlocker as used in military and aircraft equipment:
VC-3 acrylic thread lock
Last edited by Jesse Open; 11-02-2019 at 06:32 AM.
11-02-2019, 06:30 AM
Well those are what I used, the threaded ones. The ones like what you mention are the Dubro ones that come with the cable kits. For those that are too tight I just sand the arm with fine grit until it does, then polish it with plastic polish.
11-02-2019, 06:44 AM
With the threaded post version I use one washer with an ID that fits over the unthreaded portion of the post, adjust to perfect fit and locktite the nut. I limit the use of those set screw type connectors to low torque applications.
11-02-2019, 12:28 PM
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
Posts: 20,370
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Received 25 Likes
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25 Posts
I squeezed in a tiny bit of play time and installed a CH Ignition unit onto the 1.15. The 1.15 is apparently a tiny bit shorter than the bigger blocks. I removed about 1/16" from the nose of the Hall Effect Sensor bracket for a clearance of 1/64". Timing set a 30 degrees btdc. I finished my 3rd and largest stack of firewood and covered it with a 12' x 12' tarpaulin.
MA 15 x 7 three blade and CHI.
MA 15 x 7 three blade and CHI.
Last edited by Hobbsy; 11-02-2019 at 01:34 PM. Reason: Add content.
11-02-2019, 02:34 PM
Another wood report!
Norwegians make an art of stacking their wood.
The Norwegian Princess maintains that tradition.
(Stock Photo)
Norwegians make an art of stacking their wood.
The Norwegian Princess maintains that tradition.
(Stock Photo)
Last edited by Jesse Open; 11-02-2019 at 03:10 PM.
11-02-2019, 04:04 PM
Not like I really needed a new one, but my newest tach arrived today. Got the latest FROMECO TNC
in the heavy duty CNC machined, billet case.
Just last week converted a FG-20 Saito gasser back to methanol so we may get a chance to try out the tach on a fresh engine tomorrow morning.
Still have most every tach that I have bought or built since the first Heathkit . The Ace Tachmaster was also built from a kit. Have an earlier TNC and the Nisshin which is identical to the Royal. The Futaba is a great tach thatbis seldom seen today. They all still work.
in the heavy duty CNC machined, billet case.
Just last week converted a FG-20 Saito gasser back to methanol so we may get a chance to try out the tach on a fresh engine tomorrow morning.
Still have most every tach that I have bought or built since the first Heathkit . The Ace Tachmaster was also built from a kit. Have an earlier TNC and the Nisshin which is identical to the Royal. The Futaba is a great tach thatbis seldom seen today. They all still work.
11-02-2019, 04:38 PM
Well, I found the limits of the new GT Power tach, doesn't work as good as the old hobbico or the hanger9 in low light. Shining a light through the prop helps but who wants to do that.
That new TNC looks nice and solid. I'm kind of retro so I actually like the aesthetics of the older analog instruments.
I'm a knob twirling, toggle flipping, button pushing, slider slider; not the kind of person NASA would want in Mission Control during a launch.
That new TNC looks nice and solid. I'm kind of retro so I actually like the aesthetics of the older analog instruments.
I'm a knob twirling, toggle flipping, button pushing, slider slider; not the kind of person NASA would want in Mission Control during a launch.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 11-02-2019 at 04:41 PM.
11-02-2019, 05:42 PM
Not like I really needed a new one, but my newest tach arrived today. Got the latest FROMECO TNC
in the heavy duty CNC machined, billet case.
Just last week converted a FG-20 Saito gasser back to methanol so we may get a chance to try out the tach on a fresh engine tomorrow morning.
Still have most every tach that I have bought or built since the first Heathkit . The Ace Tachmaster was also built from a kit. Have an earlier TNC and the Nisshin which is identical to the Royal. The Futaba is a great tach thatbis seldom seen today. They all still work.
in the heavy duty CNC machined, billet case.
Just last week converted a FG-20 Saito gasser back to methanol so we may get a chance to try out the tach on a fresh engine tomorrow morning.
Still have most every tach that I have bought or built since the first Heathkit . The Ace Tachmaster was also built from a kit. Have an earlier TNC and the Nisshin which is identical to the Royal. The Futaba is a great tach thatbis seldom seen today. They all still work.
11-02-2019, 05:53 PM
The TNC latest is interesting, just wanted to get one while I still could. The latest billet CNC housing could stop a 30-06 180 gr bullet!
I too have a knob twirling , analog, toggle switch and vacuum tube preference
My ham radio gear tlranges from 1920 vintage to 1958 vintage. Still use tubes and Morse Code here.
I too have a knob twirling , analog, toggle switch and vacuum tube preference
My ham radio gear tlranges from 1920 vintage to 1958 vintage. Still use tubes and Morse Code here.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 11-03-2019 at 02:06 AM.
11-02-2019, 06:17 PM
That is it, thanks.
I had the invoice out in the garage, you beat me to it.
Very nice fellow. Took my phone order Thursday and it arrived today.
Lonnie, or anybody else interested in getting a ham license, let me know. Most of us are in radio range, night time. Could be fun to chat on air.
N
I had the invoice out in the garage, you beat me to it.
Very nice fellow. Took my phone order Thursday and it arrived today.
Lonnie, or anybody else interested in getting a ham license, let me know. Most of us are in radio range, night time. Could be fun to chat on air.
N
Last edited by Jesse Open; 11-02-2019 at 06:20 PM.
11-02-2019, 06:17 PM
My Feedback: (1)
I've never used the set screw style linkage connectors called "EZ". Those have tinnerman clips and can't adjusted permanently to adapt to varying thickness of servo/throttle arms.
The ones I have used have threaded posts where a washer and nut can take out slop. I'm not sure who made/makes them.
PS, looking in my parts bin I see that I am out of stock. I had two different kinds, ones with a longer unthreaded post section and ones with shorter unthreaded post section. I have no idea where I got them.
The ones I have used have threaded posts where a washer and nut can take out slop. I'm not sure who made/makes them.
PS, looking in my parts bin I see that I am out of stock. I had two different kinds, ones with a longer unthreaded post section and ones with shorter unthreaded post section. I have no idea where I got them.
Jim
11-02-2019, 06:23 PM
My Feedback: (1)
Jim
11-02-2019, 06:33 PM
My Feedback: (1)
HAM
Gary, no BS hear. I used-to fly with this guy that had a HAM licence, he didn't spell well but he knew morse code. the guy flew Buddy Box 6 times and he soloed (no Sim time at all).. it's funny how things come around !!
Jim
Gary, no BS hear. I used-to fly with this guy that had a HAM licence, he didn't spell well but he knew morse code. the guy flew Buddy Box 6 times and he soloed (no Sim time at all).. it's funny how things come around !!
Jim
11-02-2019, 06:57 PM
Here is a pic of the inside of that billet- CNC machined anodized aluminum case. I would prefer they put the screws in from the backside. Also, if you buy one, ditch that carbon zin c 9 volt battery! If you happen to leave the switch on and put the tach away, That battery will likely leak and corrode the insides along with the case. Better to use a quality alkaline or lithium 9volt
Yep, those are the only type that I use. They come with both a Tinnerman style push nut and a thicker,nylon
push on. They also have a very pronounced barb. Actually hold very well,snug with absolute minimal play.
I guess if that were not the case I would have installed a brass shim. Never a problem.
push on. They also have a very pronounced barb. Actually hold very well,snug with absolute minimal play.
I guess if that were not the case I would have installed a brass shim. Never a problem.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 11-02-2019 at 06:59 PM.