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11-07-2019, 11:05 AM
11-07-2019, 11:20 AM
Connecting rod orientation
Hi all
installing bearings in a Saito 56 for a fella at the club.
Unfortunately he tore it down and handed me a basket.
He also pulled the piston ring off the piston. A ring was not available so intend to reuse this original.
Hence two questions I can't answer without tearing my 56 down to inspect, which I would rather not do.
One. Is there a orientation for the ring up or down.? It's cross section showed it to be a symmetrical profile (rectangular)
Two. Does the single indent on the connecting rod just above the journal go toward the prop or toward the rear cover?
Thanks everyone
installing bearings in a Saito 56 for a fella at the club.
Unfortunately he tore it down and handed me a basket.
He also pulled the piston ring off the piston. A ring was not available so intend to reuse this original.
Hence two questions I can't answer without tearing my 56 down to inspect, which I would rather not do.
One. Is there a orientation for the ring up or down.? It's cross section showed it to be a symmetrical profile (rectangular)
Two. Does the single indent on the connecting rod just above the journal go toward the prop or toward the rear cover?
Thanks everyone
11-07-2019, 11:29 AM
The ring is symetrical. Either way is fine. A new ring is in stock here:
https://www.horizonhobby.com/SAI6509...CABEgJSSvD_BwE
On the big end of the rod you will notice that the crank pin bore is chamfered on one side but not the other. The chamfer should face forward. The chamfer is there to accommodate the radius where the crankshaft rod pin meets the crankshaft counterweight.
https://www.horizonhobby.com/SAI6509...CABEgJSSvD_BwE
On the big end of the rod you will notice that the crank pin bore is chamfered on one side but not the other. The chamfer should face forward. The chamfer is there to accommodate the radius where the crankshaft rod pin meets the crankshaft counterweight.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 11-07-2019 at 12:09 PM.
11-07-2019, 11:36 AM
I mix klotz benoil or t plate for methanol. Klotz gas burner for pump rec gas
Teardowns are revealing that red line and Stihl HP Ultra show much cleaner engines than klots or amsol.
So for my new Moki 250 (I mean Saito) I am switching on my gas motors to run the Stihl Ultra HP.
Hoping to switch in my nitros so I can run one product in all engines fully synthetic., Without the gum and potential corrosion issues associated with castor and dino lube.
11-07-2019, 12:14 PM
Amzoil makes a great line of lubricants. Been using their synthetics for 30 yrs.
Stihl will double your warranty period if you buy a case of Ultra HP with your new Stihl tool.
Stihl will double your warranty period if you buy a case of Ultra HP with your new Stihl tool.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 11-07-2019 at 12:17 PM.
11-07-2019, 01:05 PM
Stihl is PAG based and does not likely mix with methanol. Neither does dinosaur oil mix with methanol. Nobody I know of is using dinosaur oil in methanol fuel. Two stroke oils are often a poor compromise with four stroke engines as four strokes have several parts, not present on two stroke engines. Those parts in turn, benefit greatly from a dose of castor, about 2% to 4% is all it takes. At that level, the negatives you are obsessing over are not a concern.
BTW just how often are you tearing your engines down? I have seen excellent results in Saito four strokes from only 14% oil , 2% of that being castor.
Used in the proportions mentioned, you can ignore all, every bit of the negative hype you occasionally hear from the over- the - counter fuel consumers.
If you read carefully, most manufacturers are just fine with castor content fuels.
BTW just how often are you tearing your engines down? I have seen excellent results in Saito four strokes from only 14% oil , 2% of that being castor.
Used in the proportions mentioned, you can ignore all, every bit of the negative hype you occasionally hear from the over- the - counter fuel consumers.
If you read carefully, most manufacturers are just fine with castor content fuels.
11-07-2019, 01:44 PM
It all depends on whether it can be held in suspension or not. Since gasoline is petroleum based, then petroleum based lubricants hold suspension better, but fall out in methanol. What neat is lubricant that works in Methanol also works in gasoline, but not the other way around.
11-07-2019, 03:34 PM
The ring is symetrical. Either way is fine. A new ring is in stock here:
https://www.horizonhobby.com/SAI6509...CABEgJSSvD_BwE
On the big end of the rod you will notice that the crank pin bore is chamfered on one side but not the other. The chamfer should face forward. The chamfer is there to accommodate the radius where the crankshaft rod pin meets the crankshaft counterweight.
https://www.horizonhobby.com/SAI6509...CABEgJSSvD_BwE
On the big end of the rod you will notice that the crank pin bore is chamfered on one side but not the other. The chamfer should face forward. The chamfer is there to accommodate the radius where the crankshaft rod pin meets the crankshaft counterweight.
My eyes ain't what they used ta be!
FOR THE LOVE OF SAITOS. A MAN WILL LEAVE HIS PARENTS AND CLEAVE TO HIS OWN MOTORS.
TILL METAL FATIGUE DO THEY PART.🤗
11-07-2019, 04:04 PM
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The ring is symetrical. Either way is fine. A new ring is in stock here:
https://www.horizonhobby.com/SAI6509...CABEgJSSvD_BwE
On the big end of the rod you will notice that the crank pin bore is chamfered on one side but not the other. The chamfer should face forward. The chamfer is there to accommodate the radius where the crankshaft rod pin meets the crankshaft counterweight.
https://www.horizonhobby.com/SAI6509...CABEgJSSvD_BwE
On the big end of the rod you will notice that the crank pin bore is chamfered on one side but not the other. The chamfer should face forward. The chamfer is there to accommodate the radius where the crankshaft rod pin meets the crankshaft counterweight.
Here is a picture of Lonnie's words
11-07-2019, 06:29 PM
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Have a Saito 91. Was involved in a crash some time back, ran great until then. Now runs great at full throttle but won't idle for nothing. Have cleaned out everything but still can't get it to idle reliably. Any suggestions?
11-07-2019, 06:34 PM
Check to see if the crankshaft is bent, if not try replacing the glow plug.
Did you completely disassemble and clean the carb? Tell us what all you did and where your mixture needles are set.
Did you completely disassemble and clean the carb? Tell us what all you did and where your mixture needles are set.
11-07-2019, 06:42 PM
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Shaft isn't bent complete disassembly of the carb and crankcase can't remember where the low end is set have tried all kinds of setting but nothing seems to make a difference high end runs like a champ, will have to take it out of the plane and put it on the test stand where should the low end be set? will be a little while before I can get to it though
Last edited by sportflier62; 11-07-2019 at 06:43 PM. Reason: addition
11-07-2019, 06:46 PM
The factory setting for the lsn is flush with the INSIDE surface of the plastic portion of the throttle arm. This is a very rich setting for engine break in. A broken in engine may need to be as much as 2 turns in from there, rarely more.
Start and run the engine between 4-5000, turn the lsn in from the factory setting and you should hear the engine begin to smooth out. From there keep lowering the the rpm and adjusting the lsn for good transition. You have to work your way down to idle.
Start and run the engine between 4-5000, turn the lsn in from the factory setting and you should hear the engine begin to smooth out. From there keep lowering the the rpm and adjusting the lsn for good transition. You have to work your way down to idle.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 11-07-2019 at 06:51 PM.
