acdii

Converting it to gas is not cost effective, true it might use less fuel, and gas is easier to obtain and costs a lot less than glow fuel, but converting to ignition alone saves on fuel costs, low/no nitro fuel can be used, it can be leaned out much more without issues which will leave less oil residue, and gets more power.

I have an FG-11 that I swapped out an OS-52 with on an LT-40. The power output is about the same even though the FG-11 is based on a .62. If it was an FA-62, there would be more performance out of it. When it comes to larger engines in the 50CC and up, gas 2 strokes make more sense. I have a pair of FG-30 going into a Ziroli B-25, and hoping it is enough power, if not, I can swap the carbs out with glow ones for more power. They would be FA-180 equivalents at that point.

Captcrunch44

sorry man I don’t really like that plane.
I am more of a Astro hog extra kind of guy.

acdii

Anyone know if a Biela 16 x 8 3 blade will work on the FG-30? Putting a list together of parts still needed to finish on my B-25.

Glowgeek

Gas vs. Glow, an age old argument with pros and conns on both sides. My limit on displacement for glow fuel is 20cc, just too expensive to run glow in larger engines for this po boy. Same with cdi for me, 20cc and up.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

you may be able to mix Gas and Glow fuel at 50/50 and run it on a glow plug. changing to a Gas carb will help, it works on 2St gas engines.

in the link I believe it's a mix of 3 to 1
https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/eng...-glow-how.html

Jim

johnboy151a

My Feedback: (68)

Thanks for the input on converting to Gas. The meat of my question is about how are the engines holding up mechanically. I realize that some power is lost compared to Glow fuel. But are the big 180's and 220's holding up with the 20:1 mix?
Especially with the engine running behind a cowling.

Thanks again!
John

Jesse Open

I just finished converting a pair of FG-20 Saito gaspers back to methanol fuel maintaining spark ignition. Will do the same to every gasser I get. The engine runs stronger, cooler, idles far better and transitions better. The needle adjustments are less critical . The cost difference in fuel is so small it is silly to worry. No nitro methanol/ oil mix fuel is very inexpensive to blend at home and it keeps indefinitely. Less explosive and safer to store as well

Captcrunch44

that might be to much.
You may have to drop down to a 15X8. theory is add a blade subtract a diameter. And Biela is a great prop.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I only have an FG11/66 that I run on 20 to 1 synthetic lube, it holds up just fine

Glowgeek

Anyone know what difference I should be measuring between valve stem OD and valve guide ID? I have a very stubborn exhaust valve leak that worsens the faster I flip the prop. Turning the engine over slowly the leak is barely detectable or not at all but when flipping it over quickly it just wooshes out. Super light test lapping with a marker pen reveals a nice thin continuous ring on the valve and seat so I am thinking the valve stem clearance it too great???

Jesse Open

I use the Super-Techniplate version blended with that oil to get 14 % oil (12% synth, 2% Nature's best)

Been excellent , no gum no varnish and real pretty engine innards.

Hyjinx

Hey Gary
Can I buy those two lowly gasper carbs of which you speak?
Aaron-

acdii

Thats what I thought. No 15x8 in that prop. If I had gone with FG-40, then the 16x8 would have worked. Oh well, I guess I can use the 3 blade for display and fly it on 2 blade.

Jesse Open

For a bit I thought they were still here.

I would have happily given them to you.
The carbs and a remaining FG-20 went out of here about a month ago. The FG-20 carbs are not really all that good.

I will save every gas carb that I get my hands on and send them your way!

erieqc

If I knew where you are located I’d send you one but I don’t want to send it to the other side of the world.

acdii

I decided to pull the Corsair out of hiding and try to get it finished. Just need to decide on the power for it. Of course NOW would be a good time for a 115, but don't have cash on hand for one. Thinking maybe the 100 would work. It flew the P-51 just fine. My other choice is a new 20CC 2 stroke, but 2 stroke + Warbird = What is that sickly sound. I have a YS 110 that is going into my P-51B. Trying to think what else I may have, but the Magnum 91 is just not enough for the Corsair.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

More lathe fun.


I needed a 7 mm bushing for a Tru-Turn back plate, I made one.

The Saito 62 is a little light for the Tiger 3, the Higley Heavy hub fixed it. The lathe centered the threads perfectly.

Higley hub hidden.

Captcrunch44

may be if you talked really nice I might know where one is.

acdii

You mean instead of saying Walter to you on Facebook?

Glowgeek

Dave, some "richened for flight" numbers for your Tiger 3/fa62. AUW 5.5-6.0 lbs.

12x6 3b, 9200 rpm, 7.35 lbs thrust, 45.3 mph
12x7 2b, 9800 rpm, 5.96 lbs thrust, 56.3 mph (my choice)
12x8 2b, 9200 rpm, 5.25 lbs thrust, 60.4 mph
11x10 2b, 9800 rpm, 4.2 lbs thrust, 80.6 mph

I am currently running an apc 12x7 on my 6 lb. H9 P51. It's a good prop for that plane, the fa62 really likes it.

Captcrunch44

may me.

acdii

Whats a good size 3 blade for a 100? I think I just might slap that on the Corsair. Heck if I go CDI on it, then it should have plenty of power.

Captcrunch44

I will have to look when I get home to see what 3 blade I have on the hog

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thankyou much. I consider everything I read.

Glowgeek

Acdii, here's some prop choices for an fa100 making 1.8 hp using 2 blade props. Go down 1" diameter or 2" in pitch for 3 blade.

Optimal Propeller Calculator - OPC

enter 1.8 hp and 9400 rpm for peak torque rpm.