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Old 06-12-2020, 11:26 AM
  #46551  
acdii
 
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Finally got out and FLEW! Winds were WSW and unsteady so only flew the LT-40 and maidened the Something Xtra. Landing right to left isn't my strong suit, so only flew those two today. That 72 is one sweet running engine. Fired it right up, didn't touch a thing ran great Can't say the same for the plane. On take off the canopy popped off. not good on an untrimmed plane, especially when it needed up elevator to stay level and kept rolling left. Got it around and landed because it flies like crap without the canopy. Looked like I didn't get the latch released after putting it on, so got it back on and latched, started up, took off without incident and flew it around until I got it trimmed, then started playing with it, sure enough, canopy came off again. Since it was trimmed, landing was much easier. Found the canopy and it looks like it wasn't glued very well, the plastic dome was loose all on one side so looks like it twists enough to pop off the latch. I'll get that fixed so it stays put. Also discovered why it was rolling left and diving. I forgot to zero the trim when I put the guts from the old plane in, it was still set from the crashed one, and I use a servo exciter to zero the servos. I'll readjust that too. Flew the LT-40 a few times, the FG-11 is one sweet engine, but I have the idle too low, after a couple flights I was doing some slow flying and it quit. Good thing the end of the runway has tall weeds, this plane likes to fly. Even without power it just floated down and used the whole runway. I will need to bump the idle up a bit and put a different prop on so I can slow it down, has an 11 x 7 so thinking a 12 x 6 should do the trick. As the engine is run and fully warmed up, the idle drops considerably, down to 1100 RPM, wouldn't be an issue with a heavier prop though, but I had dropped to idle too long into the wind, and it didn't like that. It will idle like that until it runs out of gas on the ground though. I do need a slower prop, this plane likes to fly and will stay in ground effect the entire runway if I let it, which is what happened with the dead stick.

All in all a great day.
Old 06-12-2020, 11:54 AM
  #46552  
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On the fg11 a half a screwdriver width clockwise on the lsn may fix that. With the prop partially unloaded in air at idle the engine loads up with excess fuel. Running methanol the engine doesn't care but running gas it does because gas requires a very narrow range of air/fuel mix to combust properly. My fg21 did the same thing, it would idle all day on the ground but load up on approach. Leaned the lsn, problem fixed.

Thing is, that introduced another problem. At idle on the ground I could no longer quickly advance the throttle off idle or it would cough out and die like the lsn was too lean. The solution was to program the throttle servo speed to .7 seconds, problem solved again. Even though the throttle servo is slowed down I can't tell the difference when quickly advancing the throttle, that's because it takes that long for the engine rev up anyway, even without the programmed delay.

It's just how it is with the fg gassers, lots of peeps had the same problem. You just have to run the lsn very lean to keep the engine from loading up in the air.

Hope this helps,

Lonnie

Last edited by Glowgeek; 06-12-2020 at 01:35 PM.
Old 06-12-2020, 12:12 PM
  #46553  
FlyerInOKC
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Sounds like a good day of flying in spite of a few moments of sheer terror.
Old 06-12-2020, 01:22 PM
  #46554  
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Originally Posted by FlyerInOKC
Sounds like a good day of flying in spite of a few moments of sheer terror.
At least a normal day at the field.
Lol
Old 06-12-2020, 01:41 PM
  #46555  
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Originally Posted by Hyjinx
At least a normal day at the field.
Lol
Normal for me, I'm on pins and needles the whole time I'm flying. I nice mix of endorphins and adrenaline.
Old 06-12-2020, 02:05 PM
  #46556  
the Wasp
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek


On the fg11 a half a screwdriver width clockwise on the lsn may fix that. With the prop partially unloaded in air at idle the engine loads up with excess fuel. Running methanol the engine doesn't care but running gas it does because gas requires a very narrow range of air/fuel mix to combust properly. My fg21 did the same thing, it would idle all day on the ground but load up on approach. Leaned the lsn, problem fixed.

Thing is, that introduced another problem. At idle on the ground I could no longer quickly advance the throttle off idle or it would cough out and die like the lsn was too lean. The solution was to program the throttle servo speed to .7 seconds, problem solved again. Even though the throttle servo is slowed down I can't tell the difference when quickly advancing the throttle, that's because it takes that long for the engine rev up anyway, even without the programmed delay.

It's just how it is with the fg gassers, lots of peeps had the same problem. You just have to run the lsn very lean to keep the engine from loading up in the air.

Hope this helps,Lonnie
Lonnie, I have been wondering a long time how well "slowing down the throttle servo speed" would work on a well tuned engine. I have been planning to try that on my Saitos.
yesterday I said to myself "I have got to get to work on my planes". then today the wife made me go buy new flooring for the kitchen LOL

Jim
Old 06-12-2020, 02:21 PM
  #46557  
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Originally Posted by Glowgeek
Normal for me, I'm on pins and needles the whole time I'm flying. I nice mix of endorphins and adrenaline.
Yeah, I look more like I have Parkinson's tremors than the guy that actually does.!
Nerves of rubber....
Old 06-12-2020, 02:30 PM
  #46558  
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Originally Posted by the Wasp
Lonnie, I have been wondering a long time how well "slowing down the throttle servo speed" would work on a well tuned engine. I have been planning to try that on my Saitos.
yesterday I said to myself "I have got to get to work on my planes". then today the wife made me go buy new flooring for the kitchen LOL

Jim
It works very well on methanol engines too, especially ones that run too rich at just off idle. A lot of times we feel forced to run the lsn rich to keep the engine from coughing out when we slam the throttle open. Well, that's not how we fly our models is it? When's the last time you just flicked the throttle wide open during flight after the engine has been idling for 15 or 20 seconds? Probably never. We roll the throttle on to do a go around.

If that's the case then we should adjust the lsn leaner on the ground, just lean enough that the engine coughs out if we slam the throttle open. That makes the engine run smoother at high idle all the way to upper midrange rpms where the hsn takes over.

I don't allow my engines to run rough at high idle to upper midrange rpms any more. I keep leaning that lsn until things smooth out and I dial in throttle servo speed to keep the engine from coughing out off idle.

Once I flight test my settings I usually have to lean the lsn and hsn just a little more because of prop unloading. I say "usually" because the 4 or 5 pitch props I use on 3D planes don't unload much in the air.
Old 06-12-2020, 04:31 PM
  #46559  
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I just replaced the bearings in a 125 and didn't remove the rubber seals on the rear bearing, I have a feeling I'm taking that bearing out again and removing the seals, am I or will it be ok.?
Old 06-12-2020, 04:34 PM
  #46560  
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Originally Posted by Dwayne
I just replaced the bearings in a 125 and didn't remove the rubber seals on the rear bearing, I have a feeling I'm taking that bearing out again and removing the seals, am I or will it be ok.?
I remove both seals or shields from the rear bearings on my rebuilds. No need to impede oil flow to the front of the engine, even if it has the crankcase vent up front.
Old 06-12-2020, 05:34 PM
  #46561  
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Speaking of bearings, I forgot I had replaced them in the 72. I forgot how noisy it was last year.
Old 06-12-2020, 06:25 PM
  #46562  
the Wasp
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yee-up, you got to remove both seals in the rear bearing so oil will get to the cam and front bearing. and you got to remove the rear seal in the front bearing too. make sure you clean the grease out.

Jim
Saito Info Input # 82,372 "Paul McCartney was once heard to say "if you don't hand me a guitar you better hand me a Saito RC plane engine"
Old 06-13-2020, 02:34 AM
  #46563  
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I run the glow Saito LS needle as lean as I can get it too, I don't remove rear shields as they don't block oil flow, and on the front you can remove the outside seal and leave the inner and all will be well. No kiddin. ALA Fox, MOKI and OPS.
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Old 06-13-2020, 02:54 AM
  #46564  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy
I run the glow Saito LS needle as lean as I can get it too, I don't remove rear shields as they don't block oil flow, and on the front you can remove the outside seal and leave the inner and all will be well. No kiddin. ALA Fox, MOKI and OPS.
Please note that I said "impede oil flow", not "block oil flow". Seems senseless to leave seals on a rear bearing, shields may be ok but I remove them neverless. I have no fear of broken retainers in an engine that turns less than 11k.

I leave both seals on the front bearing, they are greased for the life of the bearing. Besides, pressurized blowby oil eventually washes the grease out of front bearings over time anyway.

Why anyone would remove the outside seal on the front bearing of a model engine is beyond me. Why introduce a path for grass and/or dirt to enter the front bearing?
Old 06-13-2020, 03:10 AM
  #46565  
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Why anyone would remove the outside seal on the front bearing of a model engine is beyond me. Why introduce a path for grass and/or dirt to enter the front bearing?

But, that is not what happens, I used to have a picture of five engines, a Fox, an OPS, a MOKI and two others with no front seal, they are all prestine and shiny. No dirt. Centripetal force prevents anything entering. The next time you pull a front bearing, pull a seal and you won't find any grease, you'll just find whatever lube you've been running
Old 06-13-2020, 03:22 AM
  #46566  
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Originally Posted by Hobbsy

But, that is not what happens, I used to have a picture of five engines, a Fox, an OPS, a MOKI and two others with no front seal, they are all prestine and shiny. No dirt. Centripetal force prevents anything entering. The next time you pull a front bearing, pull a seal and you won't find any grease, you'll just find whatever lube you've been running
I fly off grass with some bare dirt spots, tall grass in the ditches too. My front outside seals are staying on. Senseless to remove them, nothing to gain, everything lose.

Old 06-13-2020, 03:28 AM
  #46567  
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So are mine, I'm just saying that things do not always conform to the way we think.
Old 06-13-2020, 04:50 AM
  #46568  
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Looks like I may have some time to repair some of last year's damage. Work has thinned out a bit. I've got 4 planes that need work, 3 are saito powered 1 will get the YS91.

What has everyone got ready to fly this season?

Mike, is Pinky ready?

Acdii, Is the Chippie finished? Have you started back on the B25?

Dave, anything new this year?

Jim, you going to try the P40 again this season?

Pete, what's going up this year?

What are you lurkers flying this year? Erieqc has been selling engines like mad on the classies!

Where are Gary and Crunchy? Haven't heard from either of them in a while?


Old 06-13-2020, 06:08 AM
  #46569  
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My first flights this years were my old, nearly ancient RCM 40 ARF, next is my new Tiger III.



12 x 6 three blade on Saito 62
Old 06-13-2020, 07:15 AM
  #46570  
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Chips is almost done. Have to get the gear on and probably going to mock up some struts and put the pants on. I still have the cowl to repair then I can finish the radio install. Other than correcting the rudder and stickers the covering is done. I went flying yesterday, and that sun beats the hell out of me. Was out 3 hours, got home and was ready to take a nap, and I don't take naps. Ground is too wet to use the backhoe, grass has already been mowed, travel trailer already washed, emptied and ready for a new owner, if one decides to buy it, so the only things I have are some fixins around the house, just have to decide what to work on, or.... workshop, though I already spend 9-12 hours a day down there 5 days a week working from home. My F350 needs a wash and I have some Fluid Film to apply to the underside of it to stop the rust from spreading until I get a week to myself to strip, sand, repair and repaint it. Need to build a paint booth first and get paint for it, but holding off on any material purchases until after the trailer is sold, and I get cards paid off. When the ground firms up enough I have to dig out the cable to the barn and splice it where it got damaged and is a dead short now. The barn is on one leg of power, so only 3 breakers are functioning. The B-25 will have to wait. I might shoot clear on the Corsair though, depends on what I have going on, if I find a nice low humidity high temp day, I might just do that.
Old 06-13-2020, 11:08 AM
  #46571  
the Wasp
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the question; will I be flying my WM P-40 ??
well,, I have never believed in karma, or a jinks. but you never know.

even thO it does not have a Saito in it I had plan to fly my WM P-40 today> it ant going-na happen !! or next weekend ether. it's frustrating too, knowing I got the aileron linkage and dual rates were they should be.

here's the story,
well I ordered a new 4.8 battery pack for it. I got it and you got to know I ordered the wrong cells, I ordered Sub-C. so I ordered a new A cell pack and sent back the Sub-C pack. and of course that all took 2 weeks, but again I got the linkages set up correctly. so I got the new pack Thursday and I have been trickling it/cycling it,,,,,,, it's no good!! it wont take or hold it's rated capacity!

it's a 2700 MAH pack.

first cycle, at .200 mah.
in 2175 mah.
out 1638 mah, cutoff 4.8..

2nd cycle, at .300 mah,
in 1910..
out 1264 <dang !!, cutoff 4.8

I think it has a bad cell or they are old cells that have been setting around 2 or 3 years. right now I have it charging at .5oo mah.

my charger is a good charger, it's the Reedy 1216C2. it's only 3 years old and I have never had a false peak. besides, the pack get's warm when peaked. so it's a 2700 mah pack that is warm and peaked at 1910 mah. yet only holds 1264 mah..

I bought it from NBS Batteries (Hang Time Hobbes). it cost $37, I have bought some 8 packs from them. but something tells me they wont replace it and I will be out my $37.
here's a little tittle the guy from TunderTiger told me once>>> "that's the hobby"

Jim

Last edited by the Wasp; 06-13-2020 at 11:26 AM.
Old 06-13-2020, 11:27 AM
  #46572  
the Wasp
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sorry for ^the edits^ !! I have my mind some place else !!

Jim
Old 06-13-2020, 01:32 PM
  #46573  
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And that is why I switched everything to Life packs! Lost the Rascal 168 due to a weak cell.
Old 06-13-2020, 01:58 PM
  #46574  
the Wasp
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Originally Posted by acdii
And that is why I switched everything to Life packs! Lost the Rascal 168 due to a weak cell.
I have never had a battery problem ! but I have one now !

Jim
Old 06-13-2020, 02:13 PM
  #46575  
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Dave, the Tiger 3 is a great flyer.

Jim, sorry to hear about your battery. Odd that you would get a bad one from NoBS, they carry top quality batts. I get my LiFe batts from them.

Acdii, go Chippie! I want to see a vid when you get it flying. Wish I had a 60 size one. Both of Art Scholls had cool looking color schemes.

Last edited by Glowgeek; 06-13-2020 at 03:40 PM.


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