SrTelemaster150

You can substitute well nuts for "T" nuts in the firewall. They can be snugged down to prevent excessive oscialation of the engine/mount, yet they will provide a resiliant connection that will save wear & tear on the engine mount as well as the airframe.


Once they are tightened to the desired amount of resiliance, nylock nuts on the back will lock in the setting.

misfitsailor

My Feedback: (6)

Shorte, Your mount plate looks great! I made 2 separate ones, a little larger than stock and fairly square. I just wanted to see how much of a difference it would make before getting fancy. Your one piece plate is the best idea. I have lots of 5mm plate, so I may make another one just like yours. When you run it, will be quite impressed at the difference a solid mounting makes. Well done!

shorte

Thank you misfitsailor I have not run it yet still waiting on amr to send replacement parts. If his motor runs as good as I seen on you tube I will be happy. It looks to be built nice and for 299 what a deal and the weight don't bother me I am not using it for a 3d plane
I couldn't take it anymore I had to order the aeroworks traner just for fun I love tri gear easy to steer and nice flair landing .I might put flaps on it or flaperons. I will change the front gear to a fults gear.

Lightspeed1551

My Feedback: (4)

Very interesting. Not even O.S. is using 2 needle bearings on the connecting rod in there 40cc 4stroke.

ALFIEV

Thanks for the photos Tyor. Interesting, I have looked at my ESM mounts and thought they looked a bit light for this engine. I might be over-cautious!!!!

Still waiting to see if the Greatplanes or Dubro flexi-mounts will do the job.

misfitsailor

My Feedback: (6)

Does anyone know, offhand, what thread size the crankshaft is?

shorte

I think it is 3/8-24 that is what it says in the parts.

dihin

Hi folks, I'm new to this thread - I found it when trying to gather some information about the NGH GF38. I was looking for an engine that fits to my 82"/2090mm CMP/Jamara AT-6. Initial plan was to install a Zenoah ZG38 with rear outlet which I have available, but it's nearly impossible to package a muffler underneath the cowl or in the fuselage since the AT-6 nose is very short and there's almost no space for a huge muffler as it would be required for the ZG38. Reading through this thread I found some really useful hints and descriptions so that I finally decided to purchase the GF38. Since the price at German dealers is ridiculous (about $650) I was looking for another source. Yesterday I saw that HobbyKing has received new stock so that I could be pretty sure to receive latest design level, hence I ordered a GF38 at HK. Good news is that HobbyKing is now providing a buddy code for the GF38, which lowers the price to $266.69. So if you're aware of somebody who is looking for GF38, you may forward my buddy code which is valid until Jan. 25th:
http://rcsearch.info/hobbyking/buddy/?u=hawk66#catalog
Now I'm looking forward to receive my GF38, hopefully it will arrive within the next 2 or 3 weeks. I'll let you know.
dihin

dihin

There are some question left: What is a reasonable capacity for the ignition battery assuming the engine should be able to run about 3 - 4 hrs without recharging the battery. Is there a max. or nominal current number shown on the ignition module? What is the max. voltage?
Thx. dihin

shorte

It has the new ignition 8.4 volts just get a 6.6 volt 2100 hobbico Life battery or a 2000 nimh battery

SrTelemaster150

Single cylinder CDI modules typically consume about 800Ma. 3 hours W/reserve would need a 3000 Ma battery. I just use a samll 1300 Nmh pack & alternate quick charging the Rx/ign bayyeries between flights.

earlwb

I usually use a 2100 mah LiFe battery pack for ignition purposes. With my engines and their CDI modules that works out to around three hours of flying time before I need to recharge it. In my opinion, since I fly RC and not FPV, that is way more flying time than I need for a weekend or holiday even.

misfitsailor

My Feedback: (6)

I am using a regulator with two isolated outputs to run both RX and ign. It has two inputs, so you can run either one or two batteries, and either 2 or 3 cell packs. I have been using a single 2S 2200 lipo the run the whole plane.

dihin

Gents, thanks a lot for the quick responses! My power box requires a separate battery for the CDI, so I think I will go for a 2100 mAh LiFe or LiPo as suggested - this should provide enough flying time for a whole weekend.

misfitsailor

My Feedback: (6)

I tried out the new thick aluminum mounting plates in the air this morning. The first few lights went well, with all mounting parts remaining tight and trouble free. A problem did arise during my last flight, however, The engine started running rough and would threaten to die past 1/3 throttle. Using low throttle settings, I was able to stretch the glide just enough to reach the landing strip. Back home I found that the carb mounting screws had backed out. I had used thread locker on these some time back, but here they are loose again. If it happens again, I will drill and safety wire the screws.

I really like this engine, but when I think of all i have been through trying to make it usable, it occurs to me that the "PRO' version of the NGH-38 is a "kit engine"!

PS: With the retarded timing, it now hand-starts like a dream!

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

So the part is here already. So far, NGH is doing a nice job of Customer service. And AMR in Canada gets a big thumbs up too. I like their inventory and will order from them a lot. Now is there a post # in this thread that explanes about the setting of the cam tooth?

Mcubed

Try running it first, hopefully the production issues have been sorted. But check the ignition timing and set it to about 30btdc. refer to post number 426.

Mcubed

Hi Misfitsailor

I agree there is a lot of work to get these Pro versions running OK. I believe they only made about 100 of the Pro version ( mine is No 47 ), so I guess we are just 2 of a lucky group.

misfitsailor

My Feedback: (6)

I just checked the serial number of my NGH 38 PRO. It is #18.

shorte

Well I got my 2 parts from AMR that was damaged. they sent me a new hub but the hall sensor is a long one and not original so the sensor is past the magnet so not sure if this will affect timing. so now i need the right length hall senor.And cant find one do I call AMR and complain not right lengh
I ordered a dle 20 sensor it looks like the right length but cost me 9 bucks. This is the second week and still can't run my motor.
Does anyone have a dle 20 and know how long the hall sensor is I need a 10mm long for the ngh38

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

I do not have a pro version. I have one of the first batches motor. It has only two rings. I have #27 form the first batch, and it is a paint shaker. But it never quits. I have never tried to hand start my NGH. I have an electric starter that I bought after I had the stitches removed from my fingers from a motor that kicked back. No hand fliping for me. But it has never failed to start, it just shakes a lot.

Turk1

Jeff shaking may signal you either timing error or slight out of valve adjustment. Timing error may signal you either cam timing or ignition timing. I would play with them.

jeffEE

My Feedback: (5)

That would be great if I knew the first thing about gas motors. I have flown nito for all of my flying in the past. So I will have to get some help from the gas flyers at the local clubs. But that is a great way to meet new flyers and learn a thing or two.

ALFIEV

So.... have finished mounting engine to run-up stand. Spark-plug gap looks good, valve clearances look good. Should be able to run on Monday. One question, have you guys been using choke for a cold start?

misfitsailor

My Feedback: (6)

I use choke, I have a servo operate the choke. What has been working for me is to put on the choke and turn the engine until it starts. For me, it will usually keep running until I can turn off the choke on the TX.

For hand starting gasoline engines, I like a welder's glove. It is thick, stiff cowhide outside and padded inside!