Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
#4881
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
Here's another tip for the newbs, that someone might save a few minutes (or maybe hours) of frustration:
I recently upgraded my steering linkage. I got the 3Racing Steering Saver set, and replaced the tie-rods with this set from GPM. I also for a while replaced the center link with a solid alum piece but after figuring this out I put the GPM piece back in.
Ok, here's the trick: (I'll describe it as best I can for one of the tie-rods, and the same process works for the center link as well.)
-take the old tie rod, and put the old screws through it. Now take the new tie rod and adjust it till it sets on the old one without binding or tilting the screws. Repeat for the other tie rod, then use the old center link and the center tie rod and do the same thing. If you have the ball-and-cup type tie rods like what came with the 3Racing set, screw the balls into the old tie rods, then adjust the new ones till you can pop them on the balls without stressing the part.
Easy peasy lemon squeezy right?
If I'd have thought of this beforehand I could have saved myself hours of fiddling with steering geometry to get rid of skew and toe. This way the steering geometry will be set up exactly the same as the stock parts. You can adjust the center link for toe-in so that both wheels are adjusted at the same time.
The only thing this doesn't really work for is the link to the servo horn. On the 3Racing set the link connects on the bearing arm, so there's nothing to use as a template to get the distance right. They do provide an approximate distance the rod ends should be from each other in the instructions, but it's not the most accurate, so use it and then fine-tune.
Or you can just use the trim on the radio to compensate, but I hate doing that. I'd rather have a rig that is as straight as it can be.
Anyway, hope that helps out.
I recently upgraded my steering linkage. I got the 3Racing Steering Saver set, and replaced the tie-rods with this set from GPM. I also for a while replaced the center link with a solid alum piece but after figuring this out I put the GPM piece back in.
Ok, here's the trick: (I'll describe it as best I can for one of the tie-rods, and the same process works for the center link as well.)
-take the old tie rod, and put the old screws through it. Now take the new tie rod and adjust it till it sets on the old one without binding or tilting the screws. Repeat for the other tie rod, then use the old center link and the center tie rod and do the same thing. If you have the ball-and-cup type tie rods like what came with the 3Racing set, screw the balls into the old tie rods, then adjust the new ones till you can pop them on the balls without stressing the part.
Easy peasy lemon squeezy right?
If I'd have thought of this beforehand I could have saved myself hours of fiddling with steering geometry to get rid of skew and toe. This way the steering geometry will be set up exactly the same as the stock parts. You can adjust the center link for toe-in so that both wheels are adjusted at the same time.
The only thing this doesn't really work for is the link to the servo horn. On the 3Racing set the link connects on the bearing arm, so there's nothing to use as a template to get the distance right. They do provide an approximate distance the rod ends should be from each other in the instructions, but it's not the most accurate, so use it and then fine-tune.
Or you can just use the trim on the radio to compensate, but I hate doing that. I'd rather have a rig that is as straight as it can be.
Anyway, hope that helps out.
#4882
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
Hey gentlemen, I have a question about my motor. I have a mamba 7700 which is rated for a 2s lipo battery max, and I've seen a couple of cars on youtube running a 7700 with a 3s lipo battery. My question is: what damage will occur with a 3s lipo battery, is it immediate motor failure or drastic decrease in motor life? Or is it too much of an amperage draw for the battery? I would just love to see how fast the car would go with 85000 rpm's. Let me know what you think.
#4886
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
i also have a mamba 7700, i read from the castle site that a 3cell is not recommended, it generates to much heat from the motor and will deminish the life of the of it and even damage your esc
#4888
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
ORIGINAL: Conan4480
How does the TT-01 perform on the track? I am thinking of getting one to do touring car racing.
How does the TT-01 perform on the track? I am thinking of getting one to do touring car racing.
#4889
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
that my friend is the truth, the tt-01 is a entry level to mid-racing car. the best basher out there if I do say so my self. Competition racing if you go TAMIYA go with the TA05, Associated tc series
#4890
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
This stuff is addicting.
Ebay seems to have the best prices on stuff for the tt01 hop-ups that I've found, but most of it comes from HK. Interestingly, so far I've only had problems dealing with people shipping me stuff on this continent (North America). I had something come from Canada that took an extra week, and something come from California that took a few days extra too. The stuff from HK takes about 7 days, but it always comes.
In the past 2 days I've ordered:
(all blue aluminum)
3Racing king pin shims (the plastic ones split on me)
3Racing battery posts (not go-fast but pretty).
3Racing upper arm mounts (again, just pretty)
GPM lower f/r arms (hopefully get rid of some slop in the suspension)
I've got the adjustable upper arms, so I don't want to buy a whole set of aluminum arms just to replace the lowers. Eventually I plan on getting the adjustable alloy rear arms that Atomic makes, but they don't make front ones to match, so I'm holding off for a while to see if they do. I bet if we all ganged up on them they'd cave and make a batch.
I can't think of much else I haven't touched on the car, other than putting a 1-way up front and a ball diff in the back, which I'm still not convinced about.
I haven't done anything to the springs yet, because frankly there are so many choices out there that it frightens me. Just replace the springs? The whole damper setup? get the cheapie ones or the $90 ones? What's the difference?
It's going to be interesting, because pretty soon I'll have replaced every part on that car, to the point where I can rebuild the original car that I bought, sans ecu, servo and radio of course. When I go brushless I'll have to replace the ecu anyway. It's neat to think that my car is built almost entirely from spare parts. If time and money were no object, I wonder if that would be a viable project for someone... buy all the parts on ebay and build a franken-car from it. You could call it what you want, because while all the parts are technically for a tt01, the car was never a tt01 to start with. Just food for thought.
Ebay seems to have the best prices on stuff for the tt01 hop-ups that I've found, but most of it comes from HK. Interestingly, so far I've only had problems dealing with people shipping me stuff on this continent (North America). I had something come from Canada that took an extra week, and something come from California that took a few days extra too. The stuff from HK takes about 7 days, but it always comes.
In the past 2 days I've ordered:
(all blue aluminum)
3Racing king pin shims (the plastic ones split on me)
3Racing battery posts (not go-fast but pretty).
3Racing upper arm mounts (again, just pretty)
GPM lower f/r arms (hopefully get rid of some slop in the suspension)
I've got the adjustable upper arms, so I don't want to buy a whole set of aluminum arms just to replace the lowers. Eventually I plan on getting the adjustable alloy rear arms that Atomic makes, but they don't make front ones to match, so I'm holding off for a while to see if they do. I bet if we all ganged up on them they'd cave and make a batch.
I can't think of much else I haven't touched on the car, other than putting a 1-way up front and a ball diff in the back, which I'm still not convinced about.
I haven't done anything to the springs yet, because frankly there are so many choices out there that it frightens me. Just replace the springs? The whole damper setup? get the cheapie ones or the $90 ones? What's the difference?
It's going to be interesting, because pretty soon I'll have replaced every part on that car, to the point where I can rebuild the original car that I bought, sans ecu, servo and radio of course. When I go brushless I'll have to replace the ecu anyway. It's neat to think that my car is built almost entirely from spare parts. If time and money were no object, I wonder if that would be a viable project for someone... buy all the parts on ebay and build a franken-car from it. You could call it what you want, because while all the parts are technically for a tt01, the car was never a tt01 to start with. Just food for thought.
#4893
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
whoa no posts 4 a while...
if i want to change the frequency of my radio to fm, do i just have to change the crystals or the whole radio unit?
thkx!
if i want to change the frequency of my radio to fm, do i just have to change the crystals or the whole radio unit?
thkx!
#4895
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
ORIGINAL: Jem93
whoa no posts 4 a while...
if i want to change the frequency of my radio to fm, do i just have to change the crystals or the whole radio unit?
thkx!
whoa no posts 4 a while...
if i want to change the frequency of my radio to fm, do i just have to change the crystals or the whole radio unit?
thkx!
#4896
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
so right now my radio is 27mhz, can i change it to say 72mhz by just swappin crystals? and will that also give me a further range my car can go before it doesnt recieve the radio signal anymore?
#4900
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RE: Official Tamiya TT-01 Thread
ORIGINAL: SIRCC
and yours, ill let you drift it if you come down for opening day
and yours, ill let you drift it if you come down for opening day