speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Steve is correct that when it comes to gloss nothing is going to beat 2K finishes. It is also going to be the most expensive route by far and requires spray equipment. Lacquer is a good way to go for base colors followed by a 2K clear but again requires spray equipment unless like in your case you can order a spray can of 2K clear from Spray Max. IMO the Rustoleum epoxy appliance white that I recommend simulates the gloss of Ultracote much more accurately. It is also much more durable then the normal formula of Rustoleum. I have also found it ready to put the part to use 24 hours after spraying.

dksnyder

Looks like the "Rustoleum epoxy appliance white" is the best compromise for me.... cheap enough, spray can application, glossy and maybe a good color match for my cowl (that is painted to match Ultracote white).
Will I have to fine sand/roughen the entire part of the cowl I intend to paint?
Can I use auto filler and primer, or will the paint cover well enough?

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Yes, you should go over all the white area with 320 grit to break the gloss prior to spraying any new paint. You will also want to spray a few coats of sandable primer onto the repaired section to fill any glass weave and smooth out the transition.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum-...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

airsteve172

A word of caution about painting, regardless of what kind of paint you use.

Always make sure that the surface of anything you're going to paint is as smooth and as perfect as you expect the paint to look. A common mistake is to try to cover up flaws in the surface with paint and it just doesn't work that way!!!

dksnyder

Great, thanks!
I have some "Rust-Oleum: auto primer that says it's good for most auto lacquer and enamel.
or Krylon primer which says it's good on indoor/outdoor wood, glass, etc.... most anything, I guess....
or "Iron Armor" filler/primer for autos or metal, wood or fiberglass.
Looks to me like they all have about the same base.

I have found some Rustoleum epoxy appliance white spray can paint.
I think I'll go with that.
Sure appreciate your help!

Don in Connecticut

dksnyder

Well... I got the cowl repaired with about 3 layers of FG cloth and epoxy.
Sanded it as smooth as it's gonna get.... not perfect, but not as bad as I feared.
Sealer/primer sure did show where I could have done a better sanding job, but that's the way it's gonna' be!
I'm ready to paint with the Rust-Oleum epoxy white spray, just waiting for a warmer day.
I'm a bit concerned about feathering into the undamaged area.
I roughen into the existing paint, but my overspray will be onto a un-roughened area.
Don't know how to avoid my painted edges covering a "un-roughened" area.
Will that be OK??

airsteve172

In the unroughened area, make sure it's absolutely clean and grease free. You can additionally prepare the area by going over it with rubbing compound which will be the equivalent of micro sanding. While you're at it, you can also compound the repair area to make it as smooth as possible, polished even. Remember, the paint you apply will only look as good as the surface that it's sitting on!

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

I would suggest repainting all the white area, blending the new White with the old is going to be almost impossible. Mask off the red, scuff all the white with dry 400 grit, alcohol wipe and spray all the white area after warming up the can under hot tap water for 5 minutes.

dksnyder

Geeze... I can't face repainting the whole cowl!!
I just did a test of the Rust-Oleum epoxy white spray and it looks like a good match with the original paint.
Now I'm just waiting for some decent weather to spray.
I realize the overlaping areas may not look great... but it's mostly under the nose and hopefully won't show too awful much.
If it's too bad, I'll have to do the whole thing...
Thanks for all the help along the way!

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

You only need to repaint the white areas, you have done a great job so far. I'm in the middle of painting an entire airplane, unfortunately on hold for a couple weeks due to injuring my shoulder yesterday at work. Just a bit more sanding to feather the edge and some paint and most people would not ever realize it was damaged. Here is maybe some inspiration. A all composite 40% Extra 330 that was given to me after being landed in a vineyard. It was pretty tore up.


After repairs, several patch panels on the wings and tail. There was a good crease just behind the canopy on this side.

Some paint and Vinyl, she looks brand new.

dksnyder

I just completed my spray painting with Rust-Oleum Epoxy White paint.
I sprayed quite a few passes with the spray can, within the 1/2 hour they say for recoats.
The results didn't come out too well....
They "suggested" not to prime, but I had already sprayed and sanded smooth gray primer.
The paint results look quite "gray"..... not the brilliant white to match Monocote.
I suspect the primer is still not covered completely... even after many spray coats.
They also say recoat in ONE WEEK!!
OK... I'll wait the full week to give it a few more coats!!
I'm surprised at how poorly the paint covered....
Does that that sound like your results with this paint?
Someone else recommended Rust-Olium K2 (I think) paint.
Think I should try my re-coatinf with the K2 product??

airsteve172

A good practice with ANY paint that one is not familiar with is to experiment with a test spray on a similar surface to see what sort of results can be achieved.

Primer is available in a few colors including white for various reasons. A common practice is to use a primer that most closely resembles the paint color to be used so it would lessen the chances of having the undercoat show through.

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

Whenever I used the white appliance epoxy paint it has covered quite well. The landing gear and wheel pants on this bipe were sprayed with the epoxy white. The aluminum landing gear was only scuffed prior to painting.

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

Spray a scrap piece of fiberglass with no primer and see if your colors match. This will tell you if the paint just isn't white enough or if you are seeing the primer.

David

dksnyder

I have yet to find a white paint that matches the Monocote (maybe Ultracote) used in the Extreme Flight 91" Extra!
I tried the Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy white (for refrigerators, I think) and it is too gray.
I then tried Rust-Oleum Gloss White Protective Enamel... same thing....
I'm giving up...
I have sanded the masking tape ridges smooth, and am going to try applying Monocote strips to cover up the blended areas.
I'm told Monocote can be ironed over painted surfaces, but to be careful of heat affecting the paint.
I tried a small patch, and I don't think it worked too well.
I have some "Rapid Tac" that is used to apply vinyl coverings to cars/trucks.
I'm testing that now....