RC Tank F.A.Q.
06-08-2007, 10:38 PM
#26
RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
Q: Is it important to break in a new motor?
A: Yes, it's important to break in a new motor to improve power output and reduce power consumption. A new motor comes with flat brushes and a round commutator as shown in the left diagram below. The goal is to wear the brushes down in such a manner that you have a curved surface (and thus more contact area) at the commutator/brush interface, as shown in the right diagram. If you try to break it in by simply running the tank at full load at the get-go, you create a lot of arcing which pits the surfaces and degrades performance.
A: Yes, it's important to break in a new motor to improve power output and reduce power consumption. A new motor comes with flat brushes and a round commutator as shown in the left diagram below. The goal is to wear the brushes down in such a manner that you have a curved surface (and thus more contact area) at the commutator/brush interface, as shown in the right diagram. If you try to break it in by simply running the tank at full load at the get-go, you create a lot of arcing which pits the surfaces and degrades performance.
06-08-2007, 11:02 PM
#27
RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
Q: How do I properly break in a motor?
A: First, mark the motor and its rotation, then remove the motor from the tank. You would want to run the motor without any load at about 1/3 to 1/2 it's rated voltage on the same direction of rotation for an hour or two. This should be long enough to wear the brushes down without arcing. A good voltage to break in a stock 380, 385, or 540 motor is 3 volts. You could tape a couple of Alkaline D cell batteries together in series and tape the wires from the motor to the batteries' terminals and let the motor run until the batteries are dead. I find it easier to clamp the wires from the motor to a single shorter 3V lithium cell, which doesn't cost much more than a couple of D cells.
If you don't want to use an electric drill to break in your metal gears, then you can break in your motor first using the method above, then use the motor to break in the metal gears.
A: First, mark the motor and its rotation, then remove the motor from the tank. You would want to run the motor without any load at about 1/3 to 1/2 it's rated voltage on the same direction of rotation for an hour or two. This should be long enough to wear the brushes down without arcing. A good voltage to break in a stock 380, 385, or 540 motor is 3 volts. You could tape a couple of Alkaline D cell batteries together in series and tape the wires from the motor to the batteries' terminals and let the motor run until the batteries are dead. I find it easier to clamp the wires from the motor to a single shorter 3V lithium cell, which doesn't cost much more than a couple of D cells.
If you don't want to use an electric drill to break in your metal gears, then you can break in your motor first using the method above, then use the motor to break in the metal gears.
06-12-2007, 09:46 AM
#28
RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
Q: What if I want to break in my motors without disconnecting them from the circuit board?
A: You can break the motors in while they are still connected to the circuit board, but you might be applying more than 3 volts to them through the ESC, which is not ideal. It is important to remove all load from the motors. Therefore, unbolt the motors from the gearboxes and strap them to a piece of wood. Then run the motors at low speed for an hour or two.
A: You can break the motors in while they are still connected to the circuit board, but you might be applying more than 3 volts to them through the ESC, which is not ideal. It is important to remove all load from the motors. Therefore, unbolt the motors from the gearboxes and strap them to a piece of wood. Then run the motors at low speed for an hour or two.
06-12-2007, 09:55 AM
#29
RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
Q: How do I extend the runtime of my Spektrum DX6 transmitter without buying a new battery pack?
A: You can more than double the runtime of the Spektrum DX6 by installing a more efficient voltage regulator, which cost around $15. Check out this link for more info: [link=http://www.dimensionengineering.com/appnotes/spektrum_mod/spektrum_mod.htm]Improving the runtime of the Spektrum DX6[/link]
A: You can more than double the runtime of the Spektrum DX6 by installing a more efficient voltage regulator, which cost around $15. Check out this link for more info: [link=http://www.dimensionengineering.com/appnotes/spektrum_mod/spektrum_mod.htm]Improving the runtime of the Spektrum DX6[/link]
06-19-2007, 09:18 AM
#30
Senior Member
RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
I know this is going to be pretty mundane to most of you guys, but, as a beginner, I would love to see some hints and tips (in the form of a FAQ) about some of the modeling aspects: air-brush painting, paint mixing to get effects (like Richard's whitewash snow cammo, weathering, rust effects, and the likes), references for appropriate cammo scheems (Normandy woodland cammo, top and sides). Building up putty. Cutting hatches. Things like that.
Just an idea (and wish list).
Just an idea (and wish list).
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Jae1967 (12-19-2021)
06-19-2007, 10:40 AM
#31
RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
the perfect airsoft battle ammo!paint balls that work with your tanks they can be found on the web or on E-bay here[link=http://stores.ebay.com/Mesa-Paintball-Supply-and-Hobby]paint balls[/link]
Truly 100% biodegradable bb's they degrade in a few days and explode on impact...NO MORE MESS!Can be purchased here.[link=http://www.xtremez.com/airsoft/product_information.asp?number=BBFE1700&dept=487]100% biodegradable bbs[/link]
Vedios showing paintballs breaking at 20ft they can break from over 30ft! and the Bio BB's exploding on impact leaving a white chalk like mark on another tank.[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdqF7bTbBrU]Paint ball testing[/link]
[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sbgOi4ypuNc]Bio BB testing exploding on impact[/link]
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markust74 (02-20-2021)
07-06-2007, 06:47 PM
#32
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
Coloring sandbags, tarps and other fabrics:
Here is a cheap way to color your camo nets, tarps, sandbags and any other fabrics. Its the way I make my own: acrylic fabric paints!
Where to get 'em: Look in the craft section of the local Walmart or in the local dollar store in the fabric paint aisle. There should be a rack of fabric paints (NOT DYES, they are a pain) under the name Delta Ceramcoat. Don't be put off by the name, these are acrylic (aka water-based) paints. Don't go to Michaels or White Rose or an art store, you'll pay three times as much for the same stuff (I paid $6 at Wallacks, $2 at the Dollarama for the same 120 ml (4oz) bottle)
How to Use 'em:
AFTER shaking the paint container well to mix its contents, choose a 500 ml (about 16 ounce) mixing/dunk container. A wide opening but not too shallow is good (eg: a Glad or Ziploc sandwich tub) Pour a fixed amount into the container with an equal amount of water (an old syringe is good for this) Stir well, then dunk and wring out each bag or 'tarp' in turn. NOTE: Unlike dyes, do NOT wet the fabric first. If you wring the soaked fabric out ~carefully~ over the container, your improvised dye goes much farther. You can even feed this thinned mixture through an airbrush to spray the camo onto a tarp. You can also get empty squeeze bottles in the craft section, for any un-used but watered paint. Save it for further tinting the bags once they dry.
Tarps?
Yes, look for large thin-cotton hankerchiefs (the super cheap ones are best) or better yet, the 'flour sack' dish towels in the kitchen-wares section of supermarkets. I've found ones that are 24" x 36" are ideal for draping over even a Leopard 2A6. Most are even neatly hemmed, so you can feed piano wire into the sewn hems to make a tent if you choose.
If the fabric is a bit too stiff after drying, wash them by themselves in a cold water wash (no soap or bleach) and tumble dry on the delicates setting. Presto - insta-camo, and DIRT cheap.
Here is a cheap way to color your camo nets, tarps, sandbags and any other fabrics. Its the way I make my own: acrylic fabric paints!
Where to get 'em: Look in the craft section of the local Walmart or in the local dollar store in the fabric paint aisle. There should be a rack of fabric paints (NOT DYES, they are a pain) under the name Delta Ceramcoat. Don't be put off by the name, these are acrylic (aka water-based) paints. Don't go to Michaels or White Rose or an art store, you'll pay three times as much for the same stuff (I paid $6 at Wallacks, $2 at the Dollarama for the same 120 ml (4oz) bottle)
How to Use 'em:
AFTER shaking the paint container well to mix its contents, choose a 500 ml (about 16 ounce) mixing/dunk container. A wide opening but not too shallow is good (eg: a Glad or Ziploc sandwich tub) Pour a fixed amount into the container with an equal amount of water (an old syringe is good for this) Stir well, then dunk and wring out each bag or 'tarp' in turn. NOTE: Unlike dyes, do NOT wet the fabric first. If you wring the soaked fabric out ~carefully~ over the container, your improvised dye goes much farther. You can even feed this thinned mixture through an airbrush to spray the camo onto a tarp. You can also get empty squeeze bottles in the craft section, for any un-used but watered paint. Save it for further tinting the bags once they dry.
Tarps?
Yes, look for large thin-cotton hankerchiefs (the super cheap ones are best) or better yet, the 'flour sack' dish towels in the kitchen-wares section of supermarkets. I've found ones that are 24" x 36" are ideal for draping over even a Leopard 2A6. Most are even neatly hemmed, so you can feed piano wire into the sewn hems to make a tent if you choose.
If the fabric is a bit too stiff after drying, wash them by themselves in a cold water wash (no soap or bleach) and tumble dry on the delicates setting. Presto - insta-camo, and DIRT cheap.
07-30-2007, 10:35 AM
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
Richard,
I have a questions... My gear boxes are VERY WELL installed and sealed in place in my tiger. The gears have been broken in and free wheel VERY WELL. If I take the tracks off and disconnect the motor from the board can I break in my motors the same way as you suggested but still connected to the gear boxes?
Thanks
KT
I have a questions... My gear boxes are VERY WELL installed and sealed in place in my tiger. The gears have been broken in and free wheel VERY WELL. If I take the tracks off and disconnect the motor from the board can I break in my motors the same way as you suggested but still connected to the gear boxes?
Thanks
KT
09-16-2007, 01:18 PM
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
There is a thread covered about Li-Po used in HL tank.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_62...tm.htm#6256756
But it is put in the original battery compartment of Pershing, but it should also fit inside the hull of Panzer III.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_62...tm.htm#6256756
But it is put in the original battery compartment of Pershing, but it should also fit inside the hull of Panzer III.
11-26-2007, 12:00 PM
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
Hi all
Just wondering If its possable to run a S&S heng long on standard radio gear and mabie a seperate speed controalers to put some mega tourquei motors in? or am i just better off keeping standard electronics
Thanks
Jonjoe
Just wondering If its possable to run a S&S heng long on standard radio gear and mabie a seperate speed controalers to put some mega tourquei motors in? or am i just better off keeping standard electronics
Thanks
Jonjoe
11-26-2007, 08:37 PM
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
They are a little pricy but maybe not for you since they are in Germany and you are in England! E-mail these guys explain to them what you want and they will help you from there. Their web site is a little confusing so thats why it is best to e-mail them, so you make sure your getting the right product for your particular needs!
http://www.el-mod.de/
The Blitz
11-29-2007, 06:54 AM
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
I just took delivery of an old non s & s Heng Long Tiger today, I need to take the top off to see what the damage is like inside (turret rotation is dodgy, no airsoft gun operation, that's just what I know of so far). I found three screws underneath which I unscrewed but nothing seems to have become free - is there a knack to getting the top off? Am I missing something?
UPDATE: Oh, not to worry - I discovered a guide elsewhere for disassembling the Tiger.
UPDATE: Oh, not to worry - I discovered a guide elsewhere for disassembling the Tiger.
12-05-2007, 05:05 PM
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
Hello all. I know motor break-in is a smart thing to do in order to properly break in brushes, but keeping that motor clean is equally important. Any r/c shop sells motor spray. The carbon from the brushes has a nasty habit of fouling the end bell on any electric motor. This build up will cause excess heat and arcing on the commutator. Spray the motor until until only clean fluid runs out and re-oil the bushings periodically. The improvement is instantly noticeable. Most motor sprays are plastic safe. Hope this is of some help.
Regards, JZ
Regards, JZ
12-05-2007, 08:18 PM
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
HOME MADE PLASTIC FILLER
You can make your own plastic filler, we used to do it along time ago. You take the plastic trees that the parts come on then cut them into about 1/8" sections then put them into a small wide mouth glass container and cover them with testors liquid cement and leave till it disolves the pieces forms a thick plastic paste. Great for filling seams. You can make the filler the color of the model by useing the trees from that model or other model of the same color. It does take longer for the filler to harden but when it does and is sanded out it's almost invisable
You can make your own plastic filler, we used to do it along time ago. You take the plastic trees that the parts come on then cut them into about 1/8" sections then put them into a small wide mouth glass container and cover them with testors liquid cement and leave till it disolves the pieces forms a thick plastic paste. Great for filling seams. You can make the filler the color of the model by useing the trees from that model or other model of the same color. It does take longer for the filler to harden but when it does and is sanded out it's almost invisable
12-05-2007, 08:26 PM
#44
RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
TAMIYA TANK OWNERS FEEDBACK ON TAMIYA TANKS:
NOTE: Updated to reflect reader comments (*)
The purpose of this thread is to give some factual advice to those considering purchasing Tamiya Tanks. I hope to dispel the myth that all Tamiya tanks require hundreds of dollars in upgraded parts just to work. The three tanks listed below that I built were built STOCK, and meant to battle, complete with IR battle systems.
* Except for Gear Reduction and Idler Adjuster in my Tiger I, all the tanks run stock.
We will be listing the following regarding STOCK Tamiya Tanks - no major drive train / track mods.
1) Know Issue(s) - 2) Their Severity - 3) Recommended Fix(es)
If you have built or operate a Tamiya tank, please feel free to add to the list.
ALL TANKS:
1) Turret Rotation Unit is weak - 2) The more you hand turn the turret the worse it gets - 3) Either super glue the clutch or replace with a solid gear (Tamiya Gearbox Kit #72005). Proper cable management can help
* Some like to upgrade from the stock Brass Bearings to Sealed Bearings. Grease MUST be plastic safe. (Jeff)
SHERMAN: (built plus feedback)
No Major Issues
* 1) Real Idler Wheel has no metal bearings, and can wear out - 2) Mine's been fine for three years, other have problems (Metal Tracks??) - 3) Replace with new stock Idler, Upgrade yourself, purchase after market upgrade (Jeff)
TIGER I: (built plus feedback)
No Major Issues -
1) The Track Tensioner could be better - 2) Keep an eye on you track through out the day. The tracks can jump on the idler wheel - 3) Fabricate your own Tension system, or purchase an aftermarket tensioner (Daryl Tuners upgrade).
1) Main Gun Barrel Seam - 2) May cause recoil issues - 3) Careful sanding, filling, and painting of the seam,or replace with metal barrel.
* 1) Gear Box Brace - 2) Helps reduce gearbox and chassis flex. Metal Tracks cause more stress - 3) Fabricate your own or purchase after market (pcomm1)
KING TIGER: (have not built, based upon club member feedback)
1) Track Tensioner - 2) This is a major issue. If not adjusted properly, it can lead to track link breakage. - 3) Very careful adjustment of the stock unit, fabricate your own or purchase an aftermarket tensioner (Daryl Tuners upgrade).
1) Track Links are weak - 2) & 3) See Above - Tamiya has sent some tankers replacement tracks.
* 1) Gear Box Brace - 2) Helps reduce gearbox and chassis flex. Metal Tracks cause more stress - 3) Fabricate your own or purchase after market (pcomm1)
PERSHING: (built plus feedback)
No Major Issues.
This is the tightest tank interior I've built to date, and cable management is important. Switching to Deans connectors for the batteries can help you win back some needed space.
* 1) 1) Idler has limited adjustment - 2) My tank is fine, but others insist more range is needed - 3) Purchase after market Idler with a wider range of adjustment (Geoff)
PANTHER: (have not built, based upon club member feedback)
UPDATE - reports are in that Tamiya has come up with a revised Drive Sprocket that may fix the sprocket/track issue
1) Drive Sprocket Teeth & Tracks do not mesh/Tracks are "Rubbery" - 2) Long term, this can cause trouble to your drive line - 3) Some have claimed they have fixed the issues by a) filing the Sprocket Teeth or b) shimming the Drive Sprocket. Others say the only way to get the stock parts to work is to over tighten the tracks, which can lead to long term gearbox damage. They claim the only real fix is c) Aftermarket Sprockets and Tracks (Impact).
1) The Main Gun is loose in the Mantel - 2) Can cause problems with the recoil function - 3) Fabricate your own Main Gun Sleeve, Purchase DT's Sleeve, or Impacts Panther Mantle.
* 1) Gear Box Brace - 2) Helps reduce gearbox and chassis flex. Metal Tracks cause more stress - 3) Fabricate your own or purchase after market (pcomm1)
This tank is relatively new and we need to see how Tamiya responds to the complaints. The Tiger I drives were updated after numerous complaints about speed and reliability.
For a good step by step build thread, check out - http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_57...mpage_1/tm.htm
* JAGDPANTHER: (Posted comments)
Detailed comments to follow, so far looks good.
For a step by step build thread, check out - http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6828715/tm.htm
* LEOPARD 2: (Posted comments)
1) Sagging lower rear turret resulting in turret dragging rear deck during rotation - 2) Minor issue - 3) Remove battery when not in use [note: weight and location at rear of turret] and place a removable support, when not in use between rear of deck and back of turret for support during storage. (Greg)
(No, Daryl isn't paying me for this post , he just happens to make a lot of good parts for those who don't have the time or tools to do so. You DO need to bring your wallet!)
< Message edited by ksoc -- 11/11/2007 9:13:27 PM >
_____________________________
Kevin O'C - <S.C.A.T>
Tamiya 1/16 - Kubelwagen -F/O Sherman, Tiger, Pershing, and HL Panzer III
NOTE: Updated to reflect reader comments (*)
The purpose of this thread is to give some factual advice to those considering purchasing Tamiya Tanks. I hope to dispel the myth that all Tamiya tanks require hundreds of dollars in upgraded parts just to work. The three tanks listed below that I built were built STOCK, and meant to battle, complete with IR battle systems.
* Except for Gear Reduction and Idler Adjuster in my Tiger I, all the tanks run stock.
We will be listing the following regarding STOCK Tamiya Tanks - no major drive train / track mods.
1) Know Issue(s) - 2) Their Severity - 3) Recommended Fix(es)
If you have built or operate a Tamiya tank, please feel free to add to the list.
ALL TANKS:
1) Turret Rotation Unit is weak - 2) The more you hand turn the turret the worse it gets - 3) Either super glue the clutch or replace with a solid gear (Tamiya Gearbox Kit #72005). Proper cable management can help
* Some like to upgrade from the stock Brass Bearings to Sealed Bearings. Grease MUST be plastic safe. (Jeff)
SHERMAN: (built plus feedback)
No Major Issues
* 1) Real Idler Wheel has no metal bearings, and can wear out - 2) Mine's been fine for three years, other have problems (Metal Tracks??) - 3) Replace with new stock Idler, Upgrade yourself, purchase after market upgrade (Jeff)
TIGER I: (built plus feedback)
No Major Issues -
1) The Track Tensioner could be better - 2) Keep an eye on you track through out the day. The tracks can jump on the idler wheel - 3) Fabricate your own Tension system, or purchase an aftermarket tensioner (Daryl Tuners upgrade).
1) Main Gun Barrel Seam - 2) May cause recoil issues - 3) Careful sanding, filling, and painting of the seam,or replace with metal barrel.
* 1) Gear Box Brace - 2) Helps reduce gearbox and chassis flex. Metal Tracks cause more stress - 3) Fabricate your own or purchase after market (pcomm1)
KING TIGER: (have not built, based upon club member feedback)
1) Track Tensioner - 2) This is a major issue. If not adjusted properly, it can lead to track link breakage. - 3) Very careful adjustment of the stock unit, fabricate your own or purchase an aftermarket tensioner (Daryl Tuners upgrade).
1) Track Links are weak - 2) & 3) See Above - Tamiya has sent some tankers replacement tracks.
* 1) Gear Box Brace - 2) Helps reduce gearbox and chassis flex. Metal Tracks cause more stress - 3) Fabricate your own or purchase after market (pcomm1)
PERSHING: (built plus feedback)
No Major Issues.
This is the tightest tank interior I've built to date, and cable management is important. Switching to Deans connectors for the batteries can help you win back some needed space.
* 1) 1) Idler has limited adjustment - 2) My tank is fine, but others insist more range is needed - 3) Purchase after market Idler with a wider range of adjustment (Geoff)
PANTHER: (have not built, based upon club member feedback)
UPDATE - reports are in that Tamiya has come up with a revised Drive Sprocket that may fix the sprocket/track issue
1) Drive Sprocket Teeth & Tracks do not mesh/Tracks are "Rubbery" - 2) Long term, this can cause trouble to your drive line - 3) Some have claimed they have fixed the issues by a) filing the Sprocket Teeth or b) shimming the Drive Sprocket. Others say the only way to get the stock parts to work is to over tighten the tracks, which can lead to long term gearbox damage. They claim the only real fix is c) Aftermarket Sprockets and Tracks (Impact).
1) The Main Gun is loose in the Mantel - 2) Can cause problems with the recoil function - 3) Fabricate your own Main Gun Sleeve, Purchase DT's Sleeve, or Impacts Panther Mantle.
* 1) Gear Box Brace - 2) Helps reduce gearbox and chassis flex. Metal Tracks cause more stress - 3) Fabricate your own or purchase after market (pcomm1)
This tank is relatively new and we need to see how Tamiya responds to the complaints. The Tiger I drives were updated after numerous complaints about speed and reliability.
For a good step by step build thread, check out - http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_57...mpage_1/tm.htm
* JAGDPANTHER: (Posted comments)
Detailed comments to follow, so far looks good.
For a step by step build thread, check out - http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6828715/tm.htm
* LEOPARD 2: (Posted comments)
1) Sagging lower rear turret resulting in turret dragging rear deck during rotation - 2) Minor issue - 3) Remove battery when not in use [note: weight and location at rear of turret] and place a removable support, when not in use between rear of deck and back of turret for support during storage. (Greg)
(No, Daryl isn't paying me for this post , he just happens to make a lot of good parts for those who don't have the time or tools to do so. You DO need to bring your wallet!)
< Message edited by ksoc -- 11/11/2007 9:13:27 PM >
_____________________________
Kevin O'C - <S.C.A.T>
Tamiya 1/16 - Kubelwagen -F/O Sherman, Tiger, Pershing, and HL Panzer III
12-30-2007, 04:37 AM
#45
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
i got a battery question
if my hen long tiger 1 uses a 1700mah battery, can i get a second one with more, such as a 3600mah, because its incredibly hard to get a nicd 1700mah 7.2v battery where i live, because all i can find are 3600mah 7.2v batteries. also, if i can safely use a 3600mah battery with the tank, will the charge time be longer, will the tank run for longer periods of time, will it give the tank better performance, and will it damage the charger?
if my hen long tiger 1 uses a 1700mah battery, can i get a second one with more, such as a 3600mah, because its incredibly hard to get a nicd 1700mah 7.2v battery where i live, because all i can find are 3600mah 7.2v batteries. also, if i can safely use a 3600mah battery with the tank, will the charge time be longer, will the tank run for longer periods of time, will it give the tank better performance, and will it damage the charger?
12-30-2007, 09:28 AM
#46
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
Yes you can run a larger mah battery if the voltage is the same, it will give you longer running times. As for chargeing the battery pack I will leave that to the experts
12-30-2007, 09:36 AM
#47
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
The battery will take the amount of time dictated by the mAh charge rating of your charger and the battery mAh capacity, so if you have a standard Heng Long mains charger with a charge rate of 200mAh then you can work out that a 3400 mAh battery will take at least 18 hours to charge (anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong).
Make sure that the battery matches the charger type, you should not charge a Ni-mh battery with a Ni-Cad charger. Original Heng-Long battery and charger is Ni-Cad (or mine is anyway).
Make sure that the battery matches the charger type, you should not charge a Ni-mh battery with a Ni-Cad charger. Original Heng-Long battery and charger is Ni-Cad (or mine is anyway).
01-17-2008, 08:04 AM
#48
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
How to Cut out hatches using sewing string.
[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eb8fRYrq4pA&feature=related]Cutting out Hatches[/link]
[link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eb8fRYrq4pA&feature=related]Cutting out Hatches[/link]
01-27-2008, 05:35 PM
#49
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
just got the hull mg for my hl tiger but alas no instructions on where to attach the wires so it works with the g button! can anyone send some pics please! [sm=71_71.gif]
01-28-2008, 04:22 AM
#50
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RE: RC Tank F.A.Q.
ORIGINAL: happy tanker
just got the hull mg for my hl tiger but alas no instructions on where to attach the wires so it works with the g button! can anyone send some pics please! [sm=71_71.gif]
just got the hull mg for my hl tiger but alas no instructions on where to attach the wires so it works with the g button! can anyone send some pics please! [sm=71_71.gif]