medic6115

Hey Joe,


I dont see the illustration you were talking about. Could you email it to me at [email protected] thanks

Mike

medic6115

Ugh, so I get all the way up to the side sheets and they are on. Now my problem is the illustrations for the nose trimming are confusing and I dont know if I have planed them too much or too little but the bottom sheets aren't going on well and I can't tell if overlapping is needed. This is really frustrating, I can't get the nose or sheets to line up correctly.


[:@]

medic6115

Ok so I have fixed the problem, boat is off the jig sanded down and I have now reinforced it with epoxy on the inside joints. She looks great =] Tommorow I will seal the inside and fiberglass the inside and then start designing my hatch while the seal dries overnight. So far it looks like this one is gonna get finished.

bentley marshall

photos would be good

medic6115

[hotos today I promise =]

medic6115

Well here are a few pics. I am working on a hatch at the moment and the radio box. I ran into a small problem and maybe someone can help me. I bought the Enforcer Fuel Cell and it will not fit in my boat so I found out today. Therefore I need a recommendation of a cell that will fit. And anyone who needs a brand new Enforcer Cell, I will gladly sell it to someone. I bought it from WHH and I will sell it $10 below retail with free shipping. I just need to get it off my hands.

cwaterhunter

they look great.... but how did ya get the truck to stand on its grill?

medic6115

lol yeah its standing on the grill. BTW the dates on the photos are off lol.

shadows2013

medic , i am designing a totally new hatch now and will post some pics soon. If you remeber my first hatch , well i mounted the motor and the hatch is two inches to low. Its ok though cause my new hatch came out even better.

medic6115

sweet yeah I don't have mine designed, im just trying to figure out what would look good so when you get the chance please do post the pics. My hull really looks good, I just hope the top sheeting comes out just as good.

I had to cut a portion of the 4th bulkhead to make room for my wet exhaust so I can put it through the transom.

shadows2013

still a lot of work left but heres the general idea

medic6115

Shadow, VERY cool design! What did you use for the scoop? I really like the design. I wonder if the scoop will create more drag though? Doesn't really matter to me because my boat is for fun, not really racing. I have to say though that is very different and creative!

I will have more pics tommorow when I start fitting my hardware.

BMAD01

Looks like the back of a 59 Chevy with those fins.[:-] LOL Remember you should have 3 to 4 times more air going out as to air comming in. Otherwise your hatch is going to really hurt your speed. All that air comming in, then having a hard time getting out will do it. You might try making the scoop opening a bit smaller. Brian

OH YEA! I like 59 Chevys!

shadows2013

the scoop opening and size is purely functional to fit the homlite im putting in it. Im going to try something different for cooling the head and im gonna need the airflow . im not too concerned with speed.
I finally got another can of paint to try and it got worse !!! this lustercoat stuff is absolute garbage . I will now spend the rest of my weekend trying to sand it all back down .

martno1fan

tetrosyl car paint in rattle cans works great ,i also agree the scoop is a little big and will cause drag also if you dont put more vents at the back to let the air escape your hatch could fly off or break into pieces [X(].

shadows2013

well i have spent the day chemical peeling the boat and all the old paint is off and ive started new paint , i will post pics soon. As far as the scoop goes , its going on as is what ever happens oh well . I used spare balsa i had around . If it breaks or i lose it than no biggie ill just build another one . You never know this one may work out perfect . Sometimes we overthink things and just need to try them

martno1fan

think of it what goes in must come out!! if it doesnt have enough time to get out theres only one thing that can happen and thats your canopy going bang !!.i remember a guy driving his car down the motorway a few years ago with no windscreen in and as he was driving along at 70 mph or more his back one blew out with the pressure [X(],good luck with it though

shadows2013

well here it is , i still need to paint a winshield and some graphics but heres the base

medic6115

wow, nice color choices! very cool! I am painting my hull deep blue and I will figure out where I go from there lol.

Can you show me a pic on how you secure your hatch? Thanks

medic6115

Well I have completed the hull and the hardware fitting, sealed the hull and painted the inside. Looks great. I will post some pics of the hull primed in the morning and final paint will be started in the evening. I am working on the hatch so that will come at a later time.

So far the hatch will have a compartment to fit a cam inside behind a windshield. Then I am going to have a third servo attached to the forward bulkhead which will have a rod attached. The rod will be used to push open the hatch like a hood of a car and it will slide out of the back with "L" hooks and detach from the servo arm with a snap type device. Sounds complex but it is pretty sweet how I have planned it. Anyhow, pics are coming soon.

medic6115

Ok, here are some pics, sorry that some are blurry but my camera sucks. Anyhow, everything went smoothly until I started banging up my new paint job, so i'll be touching up that later.

I have a few issues that hopefully you all can help me with.


First, I have noticed that my drive cable is a LITTLE resistant, doesnt free spin completely. Is this ok once I put grease on?

Secondly, I fudged up when realized my rudder control bar sits too low in the transom to meet my servo at the proper height. So my servo arm sits about a half to three quarter inch higher than where the rod comes through. How could I fix this because I really had no other option for height change because of the rudder set up?


Anyhow hatch is coming along and will have it hopefully complete soon.

Mike

BMAD01

Dude! What is it with BLUE??[:'(] Sorry,, it's your boat and you can do what ever you want. I've got a couple questions for you. What is your balance point at? Your engine is WAY WAY farther back than mine! I had to make 3/8" spacers for my rear engine mount so I could get mine to balance at 33%. (pics) The right/rear mount was into the cutout for the carb. How are you going to get the collet apart when it's up against bulkhead #4? You should have about 3/4" of your flex showing yano.
As far as your flex spinning freely, what would you consider free? I'm assuming there is a slight bend in your stuffing tube. Then your flex is going into a clutch. It'll never spin like a prop on a zero gravity balancer, but it will loosen up as long as you don't have any darastic bends in the tube. Grease the flex, and it will wear in.
About the pushrod now. You can put a dogleg bend in the rod to raise it up to the servo horn. Just don't do any 90* bends! (pic) I'm hoping to have mine painted, and back together soon. I'm MOVING![X(] Thats thrown a wrench in my build, but it's just a temporary thing. Looks nice! Brian

medic6115

AS far as balance point, I don't really know. I am a newb! My engine with the clutch didnt give me much of an option other than setting it where it is. As far as the collet, you can't see it, but I filled in the hole that was precut at the bottom of Bulkhead 4 and cut my own and put dual supports on each side of the bulkhead. Its not going anywhere. I did NOT bend the shaft too much and I have messed around with it and it is moving nicely now. The collet that came on the clutch is SUPER tight and I didn't even bother to take it off. Everything is good and if I really need to get to the stuffing tube or shaft/cable, I can easily take the drive off and pull it from there. I never thought of bending the rod, thanks for telling me about that, I woulda never known lol. Zenoahs are HUGE with clutches on them. I am putting the fuel tank behind the starter pulley since their is room and give some more weight to the front of the boat. In the original design, Joe has the fuel tank along the side of the engine next to the carb. I hope this puppy works nicely, its my first boat. I just can't wait to get my hatch done and say it is COMPLETE!!!

Oh and BLUE is my favorite color!!!

BMAD01

I'm done taking about Blue. I guess your going to find out firsthand about balancing the hull when you toss it in the water. Best of luck, Brian

shadows2013

hey everyone i need some help. like medic i am a complete noob . my hull is done and now im messing with the drive . I just bought evrything the easy vee manual recomended for a weed wacker set up with the original drive cable from the weed wacker . obviuosly it needs to be cut down. now the questions im going to install the square drive into the motor and then measure and cut my cable , now i have a round cable at one end . i ordered a 1/4 shaft for the prop and drive dog , i have a stinger and a bushing from top secret . now the bushing fits the shaft perfect but is loose in the stinger , normal? i also ordered a 1/4 to 1/4 collet . one end is slightly smaller i.d. the other end has two set screws . i assume this was to connect my prop shaft to my flex cable. the collet will fit into the fat recess in the stinger . the prop shaft will only fit into the collet on the side with the set screws but it fits tight and the set screws wont even start becuase the fit is so tight . Is the other smaller side for the flex cable , if so am i supposed to solder it in? If this post sounds confusing its because im completely confused.

by the way im down with the blue too