Welcome to Club SAITO !
Senior Member
Lonnie, here is Saito 30 car engine picture I promised a couple of days ago, I am sorry it slipped my mind.
At 22,000 rpm, it sounds a lot like a siren.
22 grand, nice. I wonder how long they run at those R's . Almost zero info on them online.
Well, what do you know, just noticed the 90° vent fitting.
Well, what do you know, just noticed the 90° vent fitting.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 09-12-2021 at 01:13 PM.
Senior Member
I think I got the pick of the litter.
My Feedback: (6)
So are you going to machine a prop adapter and convert to an aircraft engine? It might be fun to see how fast it could turn a prop, 22K rpm might be a little hard on the prop though.
My Feedback: (6)
Hey David! When you worked your magic on the mislabel FA-115 of mine do you happen to remember the fuel consumption? I am trying to decide on a tank for the Ryan SC and I would like a good 10 to 12 min run time on glow. And guys, no I'm not converting to gas. If glow was good enough for Gen Saito its goo enough for me.
Mike
Mike
Fuel consumption with normally aspirated 4 stroke glow engines is right around 1 oz./min per cu.in. displacement at WOT. For general sport flying a 14-16 oz. tank should work fine for 15 min of flight time using the FA115. That will leave plenty of fuel for go-arounds and variations in flying style.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 09-12-2021 at 03:49 PM.
My Feedback: (1)
wow look at this baby, what a beauty
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...mo-FS-218-Twin
them scroll above it to see the super clean OS with 5 rocker covers for only $800
Jim
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...mo-FS-218-Twin
them scroll above it to see the super clean OS with 5 rocker covers for only $800
Jim
Senior Member
An engine I regret selling, a Laser 180 V-twin, in the picture it is wearing a Cline regulator, the tank is pressurized by the left cylinder. Note serious bulge in the stiff walled Sullivan tank. I was a very smooth runner.
LASER 180 V-Twin
LASER 180 V-Twin
wow look at this baby, what a beauty
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...mo-FS-218-Twin
them scroll above it to see the super clean OS with 5 rocker covers for only $800
Jim
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...mo-FS-218-Twin
them scroll above it to see the super clean OS with 5 rocker covers for only $800
Jim
Now that IS a beautifully designed and made engine. Super nice castings and excellent machining!
Lovely!
Senior Member
A 1980's Sweet and Low Stick that people thought would be under powered but flew great. It had belonged to a Dentist in south western Va. Engine was upright.
Not the one I had.
Not the one I had.
Yep, After the fact.
Still a very nicely made engine. Castings fit, finish and design are superb.
After that, life happens. I would still like to own one, even that one.
Still a very nicely made engine. Castings fit, finish and design are superb.
After that, life happens. I would still like to own one, even that one.
Absolutely, very desirable even with the minor infraction. The Damo fs-435 flat four was available for a while too. Only 30 available, hand built and $7400.00 if a person was lucky enough to get on the list.
Hopefully some day I'll be able to afford big multi cylinder four strokes. I hate the sound of two strokes in my GS warbirds.
Hopefully some day I'll be able to afford big multi cylinder four strokes. I hate the sound of two strokes in my GS warbirds.
Senior Member
The piston rings I ordered from RMJ Machine Worx, (Ring Master Junior) in Midland, Tx. came yesterday, they were really well packaged/protected. The cord for my camera broke so no picture, I'll have new one Thursday. I ordered the rings Thursday and they came yesterday, I'm impressed.
Bjorn Baal and Frank Bowman switching jobs.
Bjorn Baal and Frank Bowman switching jobs.
Last edited by 1200SportsterRider; 09-14-2021 at 03:06 AM.
My Feedback: (1)
a great RC plane engine, but it would make a fun Mini Bike engine too
Jim
Senior Member
I have a FA182TD that I need to break in and I have a question about the fuel to use. I tried to search this thread but was unable to find any info.
The manual that came with the engine calls for a fuel with 20% oil and 10-15% nitro. I found an old copy of the manual that calls for 20% oil and 10-20% nitro. I currently have Cool Power 15% nitro and I have 3 or 4 options I can see.
1) Use the fuel I have. BUT according to the Morgan Fuels data sheet this only has 17% oil
2) Add 6 oz of oil to the Cool Power I have. This will bring the oil up to 20% and drop the nitro to 14% (suggestions on what oil to buy for this option)
3) Buy a new gallon of Cool Power 20% Heli fuel which has 23% oil (should be able to get from my local hobby shop)
4) Buy a gallon of Power Master YZ/Saito 20-20 fuel (I have not found a source for this fuel in my area)
Do any of you have the 182 and what fuel are you using? I am hoping to break this engine in yet this fall to be able to maiden my 1/4 scale Cub.
Thanks,
Dave
The manual that came with the engine calls for a fuel with 20% oil and 10-15% nitro. I found an old copy of the manual that calls for 20% oil and 10-20% nitro. I currently have Cool Power 15% nitro and I have 3 or 4 options I can see.
1) Use the fuel I have. BUT according to the Morgan Fuels data sheet this only has 17% oil
2) Add 6 oz of oil to the Cool Power I have. This will bring the oil up to 20% and drop the nitro to 14% (suggestions on what oil to buy for this option)
3) Buy a new gallon of Cool Power 20% Heli fuel which has 23% oil (should be able to get from my local hobby shop)
4) Buy a gallon of Power Master YZ/Saito 20-20 fuel (I have not found a source for this fuel in my area)
Do any of you have the 182 and what fuel are you using? I am hoping to break this engine in yet this fall to be able to maiden my 1/4 scale Cub.
Thanks,
Dave
I have a FA182TD that I need to break in and I have a question about the fuel to use. I tried to search this thread but was unable to find any info.
The manual that came with the engine calls for a fuel with 20% oil and 10-15% nitro. I found an old copy of the manual that calls for 20% oil and 10-20% nitro. I currently have Cool Power 15% nitro and I have 3 or 4 options I can see.
1) Use the fuel I have. BUT according to the Morgan Fuels data sheet this only has 17% oil
2) Add 6 oz of oil to the Cool Power I have. This will bring the oil up to 20% and drop the nitro to 14% (suggestions on what oil to buy for this option)
3) Buy a new gallon of Cool Power 20% Heli fuel which has 23% oil (should be able to get from my local hobby shop)
4) Buy a gallon of Power Master YZ/Saito 20-20 fuel (I have not found a source for this fuel in my area)
Do any of you have the 182 and what fuel are you using? I am hoping to break this engine in yet this fall to be able to maiden my 1/4 scale Cub.
Thanks,
Dave
The manual that came with the engine calls for a fuel with 20% oil and 10-15% nitro. I found an old copy of the manual that calls for 20% oil and 10-20% nitro. I currently have Cool Power 15% nitro and I have 3 or 4 options I can see.
1) Use the fuel I have. BUT according to the Morgan Fuels data sheet this only has 17% oil
2) Add 6 oz of oil to the Cool Power I have. This will bring the oil up to 20% and drop the nitro to 14% (suggestions on what oil to buy for this option)
3) Buy a new gallon of Cool Power 20% Heli fuel which has 23% oil (should be able to get from my local hobby shop)
4) Buy a gallon of Power Master YZ/Saito 20-20 fuel (I have not found a source for this fuel in my area)
Do any of you have the 182 and what fuel are you using? I am hoping to break this engine in yet this fall to be able to maiden my 1/4 scale Cub.
Thanks,
Dave
You have a few options. Saitos and other 4 stroke glow engines like 2%-3% castor content in the fuel imo. You can simply add 3.8 oz of Sig castor or Klotz Benol racing castor to your 15% Nitro Morgans Coolpower resulting in 131.8 oz of fuel having 17% synth/2.5% castor and 14.6% nitro. Alternatively you can mix equal parts of Morgans Coolpower and Morgans Omega together resulting in fuel having 15% synth/2.5% castor. Either of those mixes will work fine for break in and continued running. The third option and likely the cheapest is to purchase the fuel components in bulk and mix your own fuel.
You may find this link helpful:
NitroRC.com | Fuel Mixture Workshop
Last edited by Glowgeek; 09-16-2021 at 07:07 AM.