acdii

I have been using Amsoil 2 stroke. Comes out pretty clean. Started using Stihl with my first FG Saito, then switched out. What I notice is the Stihl mix left little black blotches all over, but no oily residue, the Amsoil though, no black blotches, but does leave a little oil. I feel that if oil leaves the engine after burning, then the engine is getting plenty of lube, with dry exhausts I am a little concerned that it isn't getting enough lube. Err on the side of caution in this case.

Glowgeek

All engines using a fuel/oil mix will discharge hydrocarbon ladened burnt sooty oil when running too rich. The Stihl oil will come out clear too, when the fuel mix is optimal. A slightly rich mixture will cause the engine to run hotter, it's not until it goes way rich that the engine runs cooler.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

--Harley Dave , send me your address in a PM. I took that box you sent me to recycle it and I forgot to keep your address. I have made you something RC-4st related. "LOL Pete will be happy it's not for a smelly 2st LOL" I will send it out Monday. you can show a phot of it here on the Saito Freak Page when you get it.

Jim

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

hey Dave, your package has been sent.

Jim

1200SportsterRider

Thanks, I'm looking forward to it.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

it's not much. but I'm sure you will be using it. and its handmade. hmmm, now as I type I am wondering if Horizon has them in their engine service department.

Jim

1200SportsterRider

Thankyou, this tool will be handy for removing and installing Saito valves, the powerful magnet means you can spin the valves seated, (spring removed of course). It's beautiful and well made. It will grab a lost screw from about 4" away.

For smaller valves, great finish Jim

For larger valves

Jesse Open

Nice one Jim. What kind of wood is that?

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

it was an Oak dowel I bought at the H Depo. LOL and, it was the only part of the dowel that was straight, sO, I can't make any more unless I turn the handle way down. the stain is "Red Oak". I thought it would be more reddish in color so I bought that. but still it came out really nice. it was the first time I used stain, and I put it on with a small hobby brush, so it went on thick. I wanted to see what it would look like if I sanded it some, but I didn't want to screw it up.

I'm glad you like it Dave!! and I'm sure it will get used.
after I sent it I thought that I should have drilled a hole in its handle or screw in one of those small loops so you can hang it up. it really should be coated with something clear so the stain won't rub off.

Jim

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

Edited.

oops, forgot to say.
as for the small magnet. as you see I turned it down on the lathe to be used for smaller engines with smaller valves. well. if you guys don't know>>> you have to be very careful when turning down these type magnets on the lathe, > LOL cause as I found out LOL. it's really soft metal and the chips can turn into a powder,, and,, catch on fire. I had to get a spray bottle of water and drape a damp cloth a crossed the lathe bed and back of the lathe. so if you look close at the magnet I cut down you can see it really needs one more light cut to clean it up smooth. but I didn't do it because of the problem I had with the chips catching fire. in fact I don't think I will be cutting down magnets again. LOL

as for cutting the tool. I first used an endmill to cut the hole for the magnet, then I used a Live Tailstock Center to hold the dowel. LOL I used a metal cutter insert to cut the dowel down. I had to cut the taper 5 times to get the length correct.

Jim

RoKit

Have anyone done their own (DIY) modification on the intake manifold in order to
improve the midrange and cylinder temperature diff´s on a 170, 200 or FG33 ??
(I know about MMM and Ray English commercial offers but have not seen any inside)

If you have, could you please elaborate on the intake volume and what you
think about minimum volume versus a "bigger" volume in general or if
you know what specifically to consider..

I have been reading about intake manifolds with regards to
automotive engines but could not find any theory or test results
anywhere on internet about the smaller Saito radials.

Thanks.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

see a Saito steel here, I'd buy it, but don't need it

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...win-new-in-box

Jesse Open

Wow Jim,
Sounds like you earned a bit of hazardous duty pay! Those Neodymium rare earth magnets like to crumble to dust under pressure anyhow.
Nice job, bet Dave will get a lot of use from it.
I know most folks here seem to prefer store bought tooks but I will always go for a quality made, purpose built tool.

Dave, I sent you a PM

1200SportsterRider

PM received and responded to

Yes, I'll get a lot of use from the valve tool, my camera darkened the stain, I'm sorry about that. Thanks again Jim.

Jesse Open

What fuel?
Having run only methanol fuel in my radials, they have all been virtually hassle-free affter a good break-in. Never got preoccupied with inter-cylinder temperature differentials either.

Seems the results with gaspoline fuel may involve a bit more difficulty.

erieqc

Hey Gary I hope you can help me out. My stepdad passed away and he was a tool and die maker and I have over 500 end mills drill blanks taps. There is a mix of carbide and steel. Thanks if you can.

RoKit

Thanks for your comments.
I have been running my 170R3 a lot and have never managed to get a 100% reliable midrange.
Have tried various gasoline carbs and also 15% nitro methanol fuel with original carb.
I have varied the ignition from 28-34 degrees BTDC.. nothing give a significant change.

Glowgeek

Have you tried a CH ignitions or Morris Mini Motors intake manifold yet?

What exactly do you mean by "reliable midrange"? Is it quitting at midrange but idles fine and produces good top end power?

Jesse Open

Glad to help. What are you needing?
Right off the bat, scrap prices for carbide are often surprisingly high

erieqc

I didn’t know if you might have someone or machine shop around the Detroit area that might be interested in all of them. Or if it would be best to scrap them out. Tool and die is a dying breed since cnc. Thanks

Jesse Open

Probably easiest to just turn in as scrap. Unless they are new/like new in original sleeves there is very little market. The home machinists are a diminishing breed and new shops are looking for dead sharp and mknown sizes.

High Speed Steel and Carbide scrap can often bring a good dollar.

A few years ago I took a 3x3x4 box of carbide to the local scrapper. got $90 for that little box.
Call around as there are bottom feeders in that biz!

Jesse Open

Probably easiest to just turn in as scrap. Unless they are new/like new in original sleeves there is very little market. The home machinists are a diminishing breed and new shops are looking for dead sharp and known sizes.

High Speed Steel and Carbide scrap can often bring a good dollar.

A few years ago I took a 3x3x4 box of carbide to the local scrapper. got $90 for that little box.
Call around as there are bottom feeders in that biz!

Jesse Open

Dave, I sent a partial refund, you overpaid the shipping

erieqc

Ok thanks Gary that's what I sort of figured. One other thing where in PA were you getting your methanal from, I'm going to Erie Monday, and I didn't know how far away that was. Thanks

Jesse Open

PM Sent the info. BTW Ritches Brew is coming to the big Toledo RC Expo this spring. You can pre order from them too.