Custom G-Rafix

My Feedback: (17)

Isn't that the truth!!! The right arm is mixing my morgan and coke, the left is for drinkin!!

Custom G-Rafix

My Feedback: (17)

Well,

I've found one down side to these Nitrages... They eat fuel like corner gal with no panties on.

simona

I'm having problems with my 'quick start' on the Nitrage 5.2 - the quick start appears to slip on the engine shaft, causing the hex nut to spin freely without turning the engine. The car is only weeks old, so what have I done wrong?

jowbe

If you are those kind of people that like to see things from the inside, I would suggest you to open the back part of the motor to investigate the problem. No if you don't feel confortable, then I suggest you to get a starter.

junior driver

I like this truck . especially the sealed gear box. tamiya provide free shipping for nitrage now. do you guys know tamiya have a new version of nitrage soon ? which part of nitrage break easily ?

Custom G-Rafix

My Feedback: (17)

There is a case on the inside of the tranny that has four screws holding it onto one of the gears. If these come loose it will allow the beveled gears to nolonger mesh properly. One of mine had cracked, but it was because my buddy came down in the grass wide open throttle. (he's not very good at driving, to say the least) Took all of 15 minutes to change it.

Get a better steering servo, and servo saver. The factory servo saver blows chunks. While you're at it, get the front brake set up, heavier shock oil and springs, and you will have one kick butt truggy!!
I have two and love them both! They start right away, and are super easy to tune! You're only cheating yourself out of the potential these things have if you don't get the upgrades mentioned.

simona

I have opened the motor, the shaft is not worn, the one way bearings are lubed up - it seems to grip when the engine is cold but once i have riden it for a couple of tanks it looses grip. As you said I might just go and buy a starter box. Thanks for the reply. Must admit the Nitrage is good fun. Rode this weekend for a couple of hours down at the local BMX track.

coalminer

Hello simona

I used to have the same trouble with the one way bearing slipping during starting. I stripped it,cleaned the starter shaft and re lubed the bearing and starter shaft with a molybdenum based lubricant and its been fine ever since.

I would not waste cash on a starter box.They need a lump of a battery to run them and you need a starter box with enough "grunt" to turn over a big block 5.2.

If the starter gear is such a problem on a new model you should return it to to supplier and get it replaced. But if you can't do that , a new starter gear assembly shouldn't cost the earth.

coalminer

Yes I still like this truck too, It's so robust and stable that I can not fault it apart from its stock 5.2 engine.I have 2 Nitrages , both engines failed with the same cause - crank rear bearings breaking up.

I think the next time they fail, I will be looking for a different engine, probably an O.S or something like. The part's for the original engines are far too expensive for how long they last.

Apart from the engines which are rubbish, the only other part I have had to change is the aluminium clutch, which is not too expensive if I shop around. And I also had a receiver crystal fail which made the servo's "stutter"
My models have covered many miles now.

Taconic

will this thing be able to withstand driving in snow?

coalminer

Probably it would...........for a while. But I would not recommend it, nor try it myself. The radio/battery box is not that water tight and moisture can easily get into the receiver unit .But I suppose if you sealed the box and servo's up well you could have some fun in the snow. The diff's and gearbox are sealed well, but would need need to be kept lubed up well around the drive cups. Altar the ride height as far as you can to keep the chassis from dragging through the snow.

Let us know how ya got on !

bhcvc

I've wanted a Nitrage since I first saw them. From reading through many (not all, don't have time with a newborn) of the threads, it seems the Nitrage's main issue is with the engine. I remember the first reviews were rave, then it had some issues and the Nitrage was getting really put down, now it seems people are accepting the weaknesses of the Nitrage (namely the engine) like there is with any truck, and recognizing it's strengths again. I'm thinking about picking up a Nitrage (since they're pretty cheap now from Tamiya) to convert to brushless which should alleviate all engine issues.

Are there any other weak points I need to be aware of?
And how has parts availability been for people in the US, especially in SoCal?

Thanks.

P.S. If I do this, there will be a new, zero-hours Nitrage engine going on sale for cheap for anyone interested in a spare engine.

jowbe

Brushless convertion. I always wanted to do that with mine. Do you know about a kit for the nitrage? If so, would you mind sharing with the people on this Forum?

Thanks.

bhcvc

I don't know of kit for the Nitrage. The only thing that's custom is the motor mount, which can be made (I had Mike from RC-Monster make one of my TTR ST-1 using my center diff as the prototype, he's now offering it on his site). Everything else is just buy them and plug them together (put simply). I'm deciding between the Nitrage or a Duratrax Raze ST for another Truggy BL conversion. I was considering a Duratrax RT-X27 also, but with a TVP design, it's hard to fab mounts to hold everything in between the TVPs, plus I've read of other issues with the RT-X27 tranny. With a standard flat chassis, the Nitrage should be pretty easy.

khayyat

Simona, regarding the starter on the engine,u will have to take the engine off the chassis,then take the rotationg starter part off,open it..put some grease inside of it and then jumst assemle the parts..that's all
piece of cake

bullittube

hi y do some diff oils have 20wt and some 60,000wt is the 20wt actually 20,000wt or is the 60,000wt actually way thicker then the 20wt??? sorry for noob post

Taconic

a few questions here ... I've been driving it in snow and bashing it (seran wrap ftw) ..but ive come to a few problems...A friend of mines recommended a few things...

1) Upgrading the Batteries to the servos for a quicker response on trottle/steering
2) Harder Shocks
3) Height



everthing is stock besides the serran wrapping to keep it from gettin wet..I lost a throttle servo this way ...


Im looking at basically..if the battery(batteries) to make the response quicker worth it? And for height ..I heard changing to bigger tires works but what will i need? and even after adding the tires, how do I raise the actual height of the vehicle?

rcpowerhorse

to raise the height of the truck you undo the srew holding the shock in palce (there're two on's on the shock tower and the others on the lower wishbone) what you do is move the screws towards the center and the truck will be higher on the wheels

tom.79

Hi there mate i noticed your running different axle setup on your nitrage 5.2 i was wondering if you could share your secret and help me out with what parts you used to convert it to the 17mm hex i would appreicate any assistance you can offer me i have been in hobby stores in melbourne but no one wants to help.

hjtrbo

Thought i'd share some pics. She's near stock at the mo. Got the 2 speed in. Hi cap dampers and sway bars are on backorder. I have some HPI wheels on the next to buy list. It gets a tough time now and then, but thats how like it. I photochopped the last image to get an idea on what wheels to buy for my road set up.

rcpowerhorse

oooohhhh it's soooo clean what are you running that in??

jowbe

I also installed the 2 speed transmission but I am having a lot of trouble setting it up. Could you please share how did you set it up, like for example I can't hear when it changes gears, so I don't know if I have to loosen, or tight that tiny screw. Thanks in advance.

hjtrbo

Hi,

Its dead easy. First of all make sure the you set the grub screw exactly as the instructions state. Secondly, allow the loctite to go off and double check that you can move the hook and that the spring isn't binding up if you used to much loctitie.

When setting up, don't floor it until you are in the ball park. This is because if you go hard and its changing while its still on the engine clutch its hard to pick up the gear change with all the noise. (Even thou it sounds good aye!)

Its a bit of a pain trying to get your allen key down the little hole to make adjustments, I found using a smaller allen key helped to line all the holes up, then put the normal allen key down their helped out with the stress.

If you are confident with your assembly and you followed the set up instructions then your only problem is adjustment...

Ensure slipper clutch it set properly. I'm trying to track down a problem with broken rear diffs at the mo and am compensating with the slipper clutch. Will see how it goes.

The grub screw is sensitive to adjustments, so try to go no more than a 1/4 of a turn at a time.

I think you should start by winding the grub screw inwards (tightening / clockwise). This will increase the rpms at which the 2nd gear engages. Based on my experience with the factory setting I found that it changed to 2nd way to early, and infact was very hard to pick up hense my slow down advice above.

Keep a track of how much you have wound in the grub screw!

Should you stilll have no success after winding in say 2 turns, then its likely you were to tight to start with. i.e stuck in first.

So, back the grub screw the same amount you turned it in. This will be the postition you originally started with.

Now start backing out the grub screw no more than a 1/4 turn at a time.

You should have it!

If you still can't get it no matter how much you adjust then clearly you have a problem in the assembly or set up. I would recommend going back home and pull down your trans case and THOUROGHLY DOUBLE CHECK YOUR WORK! GEAR PLACEMENT, SET UP ETC ETC.

Good luck with it chief, you lose a bit of handling with the 2 speed in due to losing the centre diff, but it more than makes up for it. You will see!

coalminer

I keep threatening to try one of those 2 speeders, but too many bad reports on here put me off.Poor gear changing and broken rear diffs sounds .........not good !

Can't wait to run this season with me new mods. Raised ride height, uprated TNX shox n springs, front & rear antiroll bars and a brand new OFNA Mutilator 32 pipe. Iv'e cracked it up in the garage and it sounds sooooooooooo sweet.Not had chance to run her yet though.

jowbe

I will try it and I will let you know. Thank you so much for taking the time to make it so detailed.